West Buttress Route

The West Buttress route was pioneered in 1951 by Dr. Bradford Washburn. A steady and gradual ascent over a period of days is undertaken with emphasis on proper acclimatization for team members. It is not considered a highly technical climb, because there is no rock or vertical ice climbing on the route. Rather, it is the physical environment that presents much of the challenge of climbing Denali: miles of heavily glaciated terrain, extremes of temperature and weather, climbing and living at altitude, and familiarization with necessary and associated mountain skills. In addition to extensive glacier travel on the lower mountain, the climbing is considerably steeper above 15,000’ (35 – 45 + degrees). Some slopes have fixed rope in place to climb with the belay of a mechanical ascender. An ascent of the West Buttress of Mount McKinley is truly a major expedition and unforgettable learning experience!

The summit ridge of Mount McKinley

TEAM MEMBER QUALIFICATIONS

Expedition participants must have previous glacier travel experience and be familiar with various snow and ice techniques. Prior completion of an RMI Expedition Skills Seminar or equivalent instruction in a mountaineering course is required for team membership. Previous experience at altitude (Kilimanjaro, Mexico, Aconcagua, etc) is always a benefit. However, altitude experience is not a substitute for the skills that are required for this expedition.

Mount Rainier offers some of the best training opportunities because the combination of weather, altitude, and terrain so closely resembles the environs encountered on Mount McKinley. Furthermore, gaining these skills on Mount Rainier allows our staff to get to know you, and in turn provides you the opportunity to see how RMI guides conduct themselves on a mountain. This makes for a very strong expedition team in Alaska and is integral to our success guiding on Denali since 1975.

When submitting the McKinley Registration form, prospective climbers should list in detail all formal instruction (please indicate the provider, date, length and curriculum) together with all associated outdoor experience on snow & ice, rock, scrambling, backpacking, skiing, snowshoeing, and so forth.

Applicants must have previous formal training and be familiar with all of the following techniques:

• Snow anchors. Specifically the construction, placement, equalization of pickets, ice screws, deadman anchors, and bollards.
• Running Belays
• Belaying Techniques
• Cramponing (ascending, traversing, descending; French technique)
• Roped glacier travel experience
• Rope handling skills
• Crevasse rescue (from both the victim and rescuers perspective)
  • Anchor selection
  • Pulley methods - C and Z systems
  • Site considerations: Location. Weather. Severity of injury. Pack/sled weight
• Fixed line travel with mechanical ascenders
• Knots & slings - prussik, butterfly, Munter, etc
• Ice axe self and team arrest, with and without a backpack
• Snow camp construction
• Pressure breathing, rest stepping
• Self care

Camp 3 (11,000'), looking towards Motorcycle Hill

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