This expedition truly is a major undertaking. The first few days, the focus will be learning the expedition routines of glacier travel, snow camping, and working at becoming a team. Make a conscious effort to take things one-step at a time, literally. Keep a positive mental attitude (mentally acclimate – you are gradually becoming an expedition climber!

Base Camp, 7,300’ is on the S.E. fork of Kahiltna Glacier, approximately 20 miles distant and 13,000’ below the summit of Denali, South Peak, 20,320’. We travel roped together the entire way. Leaving Kahiltna Base, our first objective is 10,000’ Kahiltna Pass, several miles of low angle glacier travel distant. Continuing to follow Kahiltna Glacier beyond the pass, the route climbs through a narrow glacial valley to Camp III, below Motorcycle Hill. Traversing a basin beneath the prow of the West Buttress, the route passes through Windy Corner and climbs to 14,000’ Genet Basin. Advance Base Camp is established here. Above 15,000’ fixed rope is climbed to a notch in the West Buttress (16,200’), and the ridge crest is followed to high camp at 17,200’. The summit day may require over 12 hours round-trip. Descent to Kahiltna Base takes an additional 2-3 days from 17,000’.

Don’t be in a hurry on the way up or down, for any reason, on Mount McKinley. Expeditions may take anywhere from fourteen to twenty-six days, but don’t allow business considerations, airline schedules or family plans to compromise safety. Sometimes people want to rush off the mountain and get home; better to savor your time while up there! That is what is meant by doing the climb “in style.”

Day 1: Travel
4:00 p.m.	Meet the guides at Anchorage International Airport (Domestic Terminal), carousel 1 in Alaska Airlines baggage claim.

Shuttle transportation to Talkeetna is arranged by RMI (please see Travel Details). The shuttle leaves at 4:30 p.m. and it is a three hour drive to Talkeetna. The group will stop at a grocery store in Wasilla, for the opportunity to purchase any fresh food you’d like to bring on the mountain (cheese, salami, etc). The team will arrive in Talkeetna at approximately 9:00 p.m. Participants need overnight accommodations for that night and the following night. Guides, and most RMI climbers, stay at the Talkeetna Motel (please see Travel Details).

Day 2: Pre-Trip Preparation and Training
7:00 a.m.	Meet at The Roadhouse Restaurant, Talkeetna, AK

There are a number of important items to accomplish in Talkeetna. After a breakfast meeting the team will attend a National Park Service presentation on expedition climbing and special considerations in Denali National Park & Preserve. Afterward, the guides will go through extensive personal equipment checks. Final recommendations and suggestions concerning gear will be made at that time. The team will also work on readying group food and equipment for the glacier flight to Kahiltna Basecamp.

Day 3: Flying to Kahiltna Base Camp

After breakfast we will meet at Hudson Air Service and begin shuttling members into Base Camp, weather permitting. The spectacular scenic flight requires approx. 45 minutes, one way. Fly to Base Camp 7,300’. Review of mountaineering techniques.

Days 4- 19: The Expedition

The following expedition itinerary is approximate and depends on such considerations as weather, route conditions and strength of the party. Twenty-two man-days of food are carried on the mountain above Base Camp. In the event of bad weather, this amount can be stretched several additional days. Furthermore, there are emergency food rations at Base Camp, in case weather prevents the group from flying off. Expeditions average 18 days roundtrip from Base Camp. It is best to allow an entire month for total completion, including travel time from home.

When climbing is done for the day, a campsite is selected and probed for crevasses. First, the site must be leveled, and tents pitched and anchored. Snow blocks are quarried and walls built to thwart the wind in case of a storm. A group kitchen is dug and cook tent erected. A designated latrine is established. Melting snow is an endless chore in camp, accomplished in the mornings and late into the evenings. All cooking and melting is done outside – never in a tent. It is important for the group to work together when establishing camps. As an integral part of the team, a willingness to pitch in is greatly appreciated.

DAY 4: Base to Camp 1, 8,000’

DAY 5: Camp 1 to Camp 2, 9,500’

DAY 6: Camp 2 to Camp 3, 11,000’

DAY 7: Acclimatization day Camp 3

DAY 8: Camp 3 to Cache 13,000’

DAY 9: Camp 3 to Camp 4, 14,400’

DAY 10: Camp 4 to Cache 13,000’

DAY 11: Acclimatization day Camp 4

DAY 12:  Camp 4 to Cache 16,000’

DAY 13:  Acclimatization day Camp 4

DAY 14:  Camp 4 to Camp 5, 17,200’

DAY 15: Rest day Camp 5

DAY 16: Summit day (night at high camp)

DAY 17: Camp 5 to Camp 4

DAY 18: Camp 4 to Camp 1

DAY 19: Camp 1 to Basecamp (fly off)