Mt. McKinley Upper West Rib

Climbing Mt. McKinley
Nearing 17,000 feet, guide Alex Van Steen leads climbers to a
successful summit via the West Rib Route.

The Upper West Rib is a beautiful line of ascent requiring technical climbing at altitude. It offers the qualified applicant an exciting alternative to the West Buttress on Denali. Slope angles vary from forty to fifty-plus degrees on the upper portion of the route. We acclimate while ascending the West Buttress route from Kahiltna Base Camp to Genet Basin at 14,200’. From there a cache will be placed on the Upper West Rib and eventually high camp will be established. Summit day is an exhilarating day of moderate climbing on a relatively remote route. This Custom expedition is staffed at a two-to-one climber to guide ratio, with a maximum group size of 6 climbers and 3 guides.
 

"I wanted to tell you that I had a terrific time on the West Rib. For me, it was a trip of a lifetime... Casey, Seth and Jason are amazing young men. I felt completely safe with all of them at all times. Their intelligence, strength, patience, leadership and helpfulness were far beyond any of my expectations."
— Mike R.

Prior to making your reservation, RMI must review your climbing resume in writing. Please contact us via email (info@rmiguides.com), fax or mail.

TEAM MEMBER QUALIFICATIONS

Participation on this expedition is contingent on personal approval of the RMI guide who is leading the trip. As a minimum you should have successfully climbed Mt Rainier (preferably more than once, and preferably by a technical route such as Liberty Ridge). Besides Rainier, your resume should include additional technical snow and ice experience, and significant climbs at altitude (list peak/route/ratings). Also include any references (guides and/or companies you have climbed with). If notified of acceptance, deposit must be received within seven days. It is not possible to hold reservations more than seven days without a deposit.

Applicants must have:

  • a current active training program
  • climbing experience as listed below
  • formal training and confidence with basic mountaineering skills as listed below (these techniques can be acquired on any of our various Expedition Skills Seminars)

Climbing Experience:

  • Confident on lengthy snow / ice climbs with pitches of no less than 30-50 degrees in angle. Climbs should be very long day or multi-day climbs.
  • Confident with basic ice climbing techniques, climbing ice of grade III or greater.
  • Previous significant climbing experience above 14,000'
Formal basic mountaineering skills training:
  • Snow anchors. Specifically the construction, placement, equalization of pickets, ice screws, deadman anchors, and bollards.
  • Running Belays
  • Belaying Techniques
  • Rapelling
  • Cramponing (ascending, traversing, descending; French technique)
  • Roped glacier travel experience
  • Rope handling skills
  • Crevasse rescue (from both the victim and rescuers perspective)
    • Anchor selection
    • Pulley methods - C and Z systems
    • Site considerations: Location. Weather. Severity of injury. Pack/sled weight
  • Fixed line travel with mechanical ascenders
  • Knots & slings - prussik, butterfly, Munter, etc
  • Ice axe self and team arrest, with and without a backpack
  • Snow camp construction
  • Pressure breathing, rest stepping
  • Self care

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1-888-892-5462 • info@rmiguides.com