Shishapangma: RMI Guide Team Returns to Kathmandu

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos | October 17, 2011
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Guide News *Everest

Dear friends, family and colleagues: we are happy to get back in touch with you. Before all, we would like to apologize for the lack of communication of the last 10 days, but unfortunately, we were the most frustrated with that issue. Our satellite phone decided not to cooperate with our solar panel, and recharging the battery was an impossible task. Being the last team this season on the mountain, we could not borrow any other means of communication and we understand the worries this might have caused. But this is what being in the Himalayas brings to all of us…

That said, we are eager to announce that entire team is back safe in Kathmandu after having reached the SUMMIT ON THE CENTRAL SUMMIT OF SHISHAPANGMA at 8013metres!!!!
On Oct.11th, Bridget, Jake, Geoff and Elias reached the central summit in the mid afternoon, on a warm and cloudless day, after having followed the NW ridge for several hours from C3 (Elias and Bridget) at 7450m and from C2.5 (Geoff and Jake) at 7100m. The next day, Oct 12th, Eric and Leon, who had made shelter in C3 the previous day, started strong towards the summit. Leon reached the summit hours later, having Eric turning around well above 7600m in a wise and mature decision that honors this young, strong and smart climber, since his cold toes were not warming up in those early hours and up there you are the mercy of the temperatures.

Two days later, the entire team was reunited at Base Camp, from were we would proceed to do several back-carries to clear our gear and trash from anywhere below C1 at 6400m. After another day of rest and packing, we initiated our descent towards the trail head, also called Chinese Base Camp, were we arrived yesterday, the 16th. We were picked up by our truck (who learned about our arrival by a paper note sent down 2 days earlier with a yak shepherd) which would take us to the town of Nyalam, just a few Kilometers away from the Tibetan-Nepali border, to spend the night. This morning (Oct 17th) we made it into Nepal not without a couple small issues at the border and multiple traffic stops en-route to our hotel in Kathmandu, due to the heavy tourist season in the area. Is close to midnight here, so I will stop writing, but we will send you a good recap of the entire expedition soon.

Again, thanks to all of you for your support, your interest and the good vibrations sent. Best regards.
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

Geoff Schellens, Elias de Andres-Martos, and Jake Beren on the Central Summit of Shishapangma - Photo by Bridget Schletty Elias de Andres-Martos and Bridget Schletty  on the Central Summit of Shishapangma

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Comments

Congrats Jake, Geoff, and the rest of the team! Hope you post some more photos…

Posted by: Quinn L. on 10/20/2011 at 2:15 pm

Congrats!!!  Jake, I just need to know if you skied down???
Vince Vilasi

Posted by: Vince on 10/19/2011 at 6:17 pm

And to think you (Elias) once adjusted my crampons on the Cleaver!  You are all rockstars!  Heartfelt congratulations to the entire team.  Looking forward to more details and photos.  Awesome!

Posted by: Pete Castleton on 10/19/2011 at 12:27 am

Congrats Geoff and team. Way to go!!

Posted by: Chris Likourgiotis on 10/18/2011 at 4:27 pm

Congratulations.Safe travels home

Posted by: stuart robertson on 10/18/2011 at 12:45 am

FELICIDADES, Gracias por hacer que nosotros tambien subieramos la montaƱa desde nuestras casas.
Os esperamos para oir las historias de esta estupenda actividad.

http://aguacero.org/noticias-club/expediciones/611-cumbre-en-el-shisha-pangma-central-para-nuestros-socios-elias-y-bridget

Posted by: JM on 10/17/2011 at 11:39 pm

Way to go guys!  Safety and Success… excellent news.

Posted by: Dave Hahn on 10/17/2011 at 9:10 pm

Congrats Elas!

Posted by: Ben on 10/17/2011 at 4:55 pm

Awesome guys! A question for Leon from Bob and Boots- is it true you really did it in track shoes?! Enjoy a few big meals…
Bob

Posted by: Bob Wade on 10/17/2011 at 11:55 am

Glad you returned safely :)  .....  Just what I wanted…  Congratulations!  Sure you’ll have stories if you make it back this way in Vail, CO….  Awaiting the hero photos…...

Posted by: S. O'Brien on 10/17/2011 at 11:52 am

Hi to all of you!! I always had trust in the team!!!!!
CONGRATULATIONS!!!!!!!1

Posted by: JORGE DE ANDRES on 10/17/2011 at 10:23 am

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