Everest Base Camp Trek: A Visit with Lama Geshe

Posted by: Linden Mallory | March 21, 2012
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest BC Trek
Elevation: 13,950'

The weather is settling into a predictable routine here in the Khumbu Valley, the morning breaks clear and calm and by late afternoon the clouds sweep up from lower in the valley and settle in around us. This morning was no different as were found a beautiful and clear day awaiting us when we awoke. We packed up our bags and headed up the trail, leaving the forest of Deboche behind us. The first stretch of walking was cold as we traversed the shaded side of the valley, but after crossing a short bridge above the raging river below, we found the morning sun and quickly warmed back up. The trail climbs from Deboche, gradually ascending along the hillside past row after row of mani stones - the rocks carved with Buddhist prayers - and through occasional archways, decorated with paintings of ancient stories.

We entered the village of Pangboche where we stopped to visit Lama Geshe, a renowned Buddhist Lama of the region. Formerly living at the Tengboche Monastery, he now lives in a small unassuming building in the small village and is frequented by climbers, trekkers, and travelers alike seeking his blessing before their journey. We sat down in the small living room of his home with him and he offered us a blessing for the rest of our journey, chanting the prayers, tossing rice in the air, and draping a kata scarf (prayer scarf) around our necks along with a small piece of red rope into which he has sent his prayers. It was a very lighthearted ceremony, Lama Geshe breaking his rhythm every so often to laugh in a deep voice, or chuckling as he tried to pronounce our names. I always feel calmed by time spent at Lama Geshe’s and we emerged from his home ready to continue onwards.

We continued up the valley, gradually gaining elevation as we ascended above the river. After several hours we began the steep but notable climb over a small saddle well over 14,000’. The winds picked up by this point and were whipping past us as we crested the gap and descended the other side into Pheriche. Just as we reached our tea-house here the clouds crept over the pass as well and soon settled in around us. Our tea-house is one of the nicest to be found in the Khumbu and the owner Ang Nuru worked hard on improvements over the winter. Needless to say, the group was thrilled to find hot showers, warm rooms, and a beautifully decorated and comfortable dining room. We will spend the day here in Pheriche tomorrow, helping our bodies acclimatize to the new elevation before we move higher. The group continues to do well and sends their best to everyone back home.

RMI Guide Linden Mallory

A team member receiving the blessing from Lama.  Photo: Linden Mallory Passing over the top of Pheriche Pass this afternoon.  Photo: Linden Mallory The team descending into Pheriche, the roofs of the village visible in the distance.  Photo: Linden Mallory

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Comments

Corell - the mountain goat in you never, ever ceases to amaze all Nalles and Hasses. Thank you for keeping us in the loop about this extraordinary expedition. While you commune with the gods in the Himalayas, we are chatting them up as well in Sedona, AZ. We are searching out vortexes and UFOs and will report back on our findings,

Lots of love, E & Co

Posted by: Ellen Hass& Co on 3/23/2012 at 6:48 am

Now that VCU is out of the tournament all of Richmond is rooting for you.  I get asked about all of you constantly, so it’s fun to report how well everything is going.

Please report back on what you think “gunga galunga” means.  Keep it up!

Posted by: Carter Sr. on 3/22/2012 at 5:37 am

I love the pictures of the rocks on the trails and barren mountainsides in the distance. I know there is snow right around the cornet. Great progress- everyone is asking about you all- stay well and lots of love Elsie

Posted by: Elsie Bemiss on 3/22/2012 at 4:26 am

Hey Mommy! We love reading about your adventures and the pictures are great, too.  Everyone at school thinks I have a really cool mom, and I do!  Good luck on the glacier.  Take lots of pictures, okay.  I really wnat to see a Yak! I love you.  Hugs and kisses to Aunt Jane, Aunt Lucy and the rest of your incredible team.  XOXO Sally

Posted by: Sally on 3/22/2012 at 3:49 am

Looks like you’re having an amazing time Mom!  The views look awesome! We miss you!  Good luck! Love, Carter and Walker

Posted by: Carter Rise (Jr.) on 3/21/2012 at 6:43 pm

Hey Jane - that’s even better than that Irish blessing we’ve been saying for so long!  Y’all are just flat impressive, but keep being nice to those guides - you’re good but we need their blog!!!  and pictures!  continued good weather!

Posted by: Holly on 3/21/2012 at 6:35 pm

What an AMAZING picture, Mom/Jane. You all are rock stars - keep it up!!! Xoxo

Posted by: Courtney on 3/21/2012 at 6:30 pm

Gunga a lunga

Posted by: Daniel on 3/21/2012 at 5:51 pm

Great pixs and really appreciate the updates.  Glad everyone dooming SOOO…well. 
Go girls , go!

Posted by: John on 3/21/2012 at 4:53 pm

Can’t wait to see every picture & hear abour every day.

Posted by: Susan Reynolds on 3/21/2012 at 1:19 pm

Wow! What a treat to have a comfortable tea house at that altitude. Do they get ESPN up there - although I fear all your teams have lost by now. Dana Marie - are you sure it was not Corell snoring (just kidding, if she snored it would sound beautiful also). Great job Team Everest! Keep to the left.

Posted by: Thurston on 3/21/2012 at 1:02 pm

Very cool picture with the Lama!  Good luck

Posted by: JC on 3/21/2012 at 10:33 am

Pretty cool to get blessed by the Lama!  You guys have made a lot of progress on the map provided on the blog site.  Keep up the good work and can’t wait to see pics from base camp!
JP

Posted by: JP Reynolds on 3/21/2012 at 9:23 am

How wonderful to receive Lama Geshe’s blessings.  I can hear the sound of the river now…thanks, Linden.  You Go Girls & Linden & Jeff!  Lee

Posted by: Lee T. on 3/21/2012 at 8:50 am

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