Today the team went uphill in a few big ways. The Sherpa team carried loads all the way to Camp II (ABC) at 21,300 ft before returning to base while the climbing guides and climbers geared up and traveled to the first ladders in the icefall route. It takes about 90 minutes or so to reach those lowest ladders, but we figure it was pretty good practice. The "trail" involves a lot of crampon work up and down endless ice ridges before the actual fixed ropes begin. The fixed lines take a little getting used to when it comes to passing intermediate anchors in steep and awkward spots. Then we started encountering the much anticipated ladders, the first few this season being short and simple. But we continued on until we hit a slightly longer set of ladder sections tied together and bridging a pretty deep and dark crevasse. The team took turns tip-toeing across the rungs and from time to time just standing back to watch Sherpa climbers dance effortlessly across in their descent from a hard day of work. Descent from that big and worthy crevasse a little over 18,000 ft was pretty good training all in itself. The team moved better and better as climbers got accustomed to the routines of "arm-rappels" and clipping past snow and ice anchors. We reached the crampons-off point just as the daily afternoon snowstorm began, but that meant we were only ten minutes from camp. Once back in our home away from home it was an easy afternoon of lunch, games, naps and good conversation. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map