- Melissa Arnot
- Alex Barber
- Gabriel Barral
- Jake Beren
- Zeb Blais
- Katie Bono
- Anne Gilbert Chase
- Sean Collon
- Leon Davis
- Elias de Andres Martos
- Cody Doolan
- Paul Edgren
- Mark Falender
- Leah Fisher
- Eric Frank
- Steve Gately
- Josh Gautreau
- Thomas Greene
- Casey Grom
- Dave Hahn
- Walter Hailes
- Tim Hardin
- Mike Haugen
- Andy Hildebrand
- Mike Hinckley
- Joe Horiskey
- Nick Hunt
- Tyler Jones
- J.J. Justman
- Levi Kepsel
- Mike King
- Adam Knoff
- Katy Laveck
- Ben Liken
- Josh Maggard
- Paul Maier
- Linden Mallory
- Lindsay Mann
- Andres Marin
- Jeff Martin
- Erik Nelson
- Billy Nugent
- Brent Okita
- Logan Randolph
- Tyler Reid
- Dave Reynolds
- Kel Rossiter
- Geoff Schellens
- Shaun Sears
- Garrett Stevens
- Jason Thompson
- Mike Tomlinson
- Mark Tucker
- Mike Uchal
- Pete Van Deventer
- Alex Van Steen
- Ed Viesturs
- Maile Wade
- Mike Walter
- Seth Waterfall
- Solveig Waterfall
- Peter Whittaker
- Win Whittaker
- Bryson Williams
- Dan Windham
- Robby Young
Posts for Mexico from 01/2009
RMI Team Finishing Days on Pico de Orizaba
Posted by: | January 18, 2009
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mexico
Humbleness is the key ingredient for climbing mountains. To embody the notion that you, the climber, are such a small part of the dynamic equation needed to safely climb an incredible peak is as challenging as the actual climbing. Our team was faced with such a challenge once we reached our high camp on El Pico de Orizaba. Weather was not cooperating with our plans to attempt the summit as wind, precipitation, and low visibility engulfed the mountain well into the morning. Many a time, emergency situations that arise in the mountains are rarely the product of just one issue, rather many tiny poor decisions that escalate to something worse. We discussed this over as a group and agreed that if we had left in poor visibility, precipitation, tough route finding, and difficult travel with the fresh snow we were not setting ourselves up for success and safety.
The weather slowly eased it’s temper as the sun began to rise revealing a beautiful, snow-covered landscape reaching down to nearly 12,500’. This unusual winter storm has left a dry, dessert-like alpine environment encased in the cold grasp of winter. A cloud cap swarmed the upper reaches of the Jamapa Glacier as our team headed out for a hike in hopes of reaching the glacier. Watching the wind whip through the mountain up high, reminded us how unforgiving mountaineering can be. The snow became deeper and deeper as we approached the last section of the rocky labyrinth just below the glacier. At the foot of the glacier, around 16,500 ft our team was knee deep in snow, gazing at the summit in awe. From this point the summit was beckoning us to climb, what looked like only a stone’s throw away. This is when one must face the reality in this case of what looks so close is easily 3 hours away and with deep snow, more like 4 hours. Too long, too exhausting, too dangerous at this point to go on. Our team, satisfied with the journey and experience of climbing in Mexico, returned to the Reyes’ lodge for some relaxation prior to our departure home.
As we sat at our gates waiting for our respective flights, we all began to dream, to wonder of the next climb. For some us, a return trip is on the bill. For others, a future mountaineering expedition is right around the corner. For all, a peace knowing we came home safe, friends, and hungry for more. Thank you to Tom, Casey, Ryan, Jayson, Mazzie, Seamus, Collin, and Marty for making this an amazing climbing program for RMI!
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RMI Team on Pico de Orizaba
Posted by: | January 16, 2009
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mexico
Elevation: 14,000 ft.
Hello from about 14,000’ on Pico de Orizaba! We are all well amidst a winter wonderland…the low pressure system that chilled us on Ixta is still with us. Currently there is about 6 inches of snow at our camp with poor visibility and intermittent snowfall.
The forecast is for improving weather, so our team is anticipating a fair weather climb, we shall see! For now, we are building our quiver of climbing skills with a great knot lesson. “a not neat knot need not be knotted!”
We give thanks for the great, safe, and determined driving of Victor and Ulysses…driving on 4x4 roads in a snow storm is hard enough, not to mention while shuttling climbers to 14,000’!
Another excellent gourmet meal is enjoyed as we wait for improving weather!
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Summit Day on Ixta
Posted by: | January 14, 2009
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mexico
Elevation: 17,154 ft.
Dave called from high camp on Ixta at 8:30 a.m. PST. The group reached the summit today and all is well. They are now back at the hut on Ixta after a seven hour round trip climb. Later today they will pack up and descend to the trailhead. They will relax tonight in Puebla and enjoy a rest day tomorrow before heading to Orizaba. The party is very strong and everyone is doing well.
Dispatch received from Dave via email
The alarm on our watch began to beep, letting us know it was time to awake from a restless night’s sleep. Out of our toasty sleeping bags and into the cold night high on Ixta we began preparation to climb. An unusual cold snap has embraced this part of Mexico and nipped at our bodies as we started to approach the Ayoloco Glacier. About an hour of hiking up loose scree and talus found our team at the tongue of what was once an impressive glacier careening down the side of the seventh highest peak in North America.
With crampons on our boots, ice axes in-hand, and ropes attaching our teams together we ascended and traversed the hard snow and ice. Our brief glacier climb brought us to the prominent ridge leading us to the summit of the “Sleeping Woman”. Aztec legend says Ixtaccihuatl was an Aztec woman who died from a broken heart. Her love, Popo, was an Aztec warrior, allegedly killed in battle. With such devastating news, Ixta ended her life. When Popo returned, he too was broken hearted and created the mountain in her memory. Today, Ixta’s profile from the West or East resembles that of a sleeping woman, Ixta, with her feet, knees, breast, and head defined by ridges and rocky peaks.
Our teamed climbed strong and efficiently, reaching the summit in just under 4 hours. We were graced with a brief clearing while on top as we endured the colder temperatures. We won’t mention any names (cough, cough…Collin and Marty) but some went bareskin on top for a priceless photo opportunity!
The descent was again well climbed by our team and we reached our high camp in under 3 hours. We hung out at camp watching the clouds roll up and down the slope below us, next to us, and above us. We packed our packs to the brim for the hike down to our wonderful chauffeurs, Regolio and Guiermo. Awaiting us were incredible Mexican tortas, a typical sandwich with meat, cheese, tomatoes, onions, avocados, and mayo- delicious! Of course there was celebratory libations provided to wash down the tasty meal.
Overall, our team did extremely well climbing our first objective, Ixta. This climb can definitely pose challenges in that it is very high in altitude, soon after our arrival to Mexico, and we have to establish a higher camp. We are now resting surrounded by wonderful people, incredible cuisine, and amazing culture here in Puebla.
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Dave Conlan Checks in From High Camp on Ixta
Posted by: | January 13, 2009
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mexico
Elevation: 14,700 ft.
Hi. It’s Dave and crew calling in from High Camp on Ixta. It is partly cloudy and we are experiencing a bit of a cold snap here in Mexico, but we can see that it is clear toward the summit. We are hoping it will stay that way for our attempt tomorrow. The team is doing really well and we will be getting some food and then settling in for a 3:00 a.m. summit attempt. This has been a fun trip so far and we are excited, feeling good and ready for tomorrow.
RMI Team in La Malinche
Posted by: | January 11, 2009
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mexico
Hey everyone. Hope all is well…
A quiet Sunday morning graced Mexico City as our team headed out towards La Malinche.
As we furthered ourselves from the capitol’s carbon footprint, we stopped at a great vista of both Popo and Ixta, our first climbing objective.
We reached the resort of Malintzi and headed out for our first acclimatizing hike. We walked through pine forests and then up a broad slope to a ridge. Here we enjoyed the views of the surrounding valley.
A wonderful Mexican dinner awaits our group now…Tomorrow we head to Ixta. Everyone is excited for our first climb!
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RMI Team Assembles in Mexico City
Posted by: | January 10, 2009
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mexico
Our climbing team has assembled under a full moon in Mexico City. Some bags are on the relaxed program and will eventually find their way to our possession. Our rooms are situated with grand views of the Zocalo in the Centro Historico of the capital city. Across the way, the Presidential palace. To the left, the Cathedral Metropolitan. In the middle, a 100ft faux Christmas tree and an ice skating rink the size of two hockey rinks. After a meeting in the hotel lobby, we headed down Ave 5 de Mayo, up Motolina, and further down Ave. Tacuba to the famed Cafe Tacuba. As we ate, traditional Mexican musicians serenaded us with folk songs on their string ensemble.
With full bellies we will hit the sack as we prepare to head out of this beautiful, historic, 25 million strong capital to La Malinche for a great acclimatization hike. We’ll check in tomorrow!
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