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Posts for Everest BC Trek from 04/2012

Everest Base Camp Trek: Mark Tucker & Team Train at Base Camp

Posted by: Mark Tucker | April 02, 2012
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest BC Trek
Elevation: 17,575'

Mark Tucker here. Calling from Base Camp, Mt. Everest. Well, here we go again. Is a blog a blog if you never end up sending it? It’s a bit chilly up here and this puts a new twist on the word “computer freeze up.” Boy, I tell you, I was going to put Linden’s blog to shame with the one I just wrote. Well, it’s going to have to come later because computers and electronics at this altitude and temperatures sometimes are a bit of a challenge. We’re going to call this one in. We’re going to descend back down to Pheriche tomorrow where we’ll have, in the past, good connectivity so we’ll be sure to update you guys on that. Had a great day; another beautiful day up here. Got a lot done- bunch of training, worked on our gear, got ourselves in great shape for the challenge ahead of Island Peak. The team is looking sharp. The mechanics, the technical aspects that we were working on the glacier right out in front of us looked very well. We had a little snow come in towards the end of the day but we were able to get a nice hot shower midway through, so that was a nice treat. And then our famous Kumar cook treated us to some fresh cake tonight. We are doing real well. Looking forward to the next section, heading downhill and then back up to Island Peak. And we’ll be sure and do what we can to update you guys as best as possible in the near future.

RMI Guide Mark Tucker

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Everest Base Camp Trek: Linden & Team Back in Namche Bazaar

Posted by: | April 02, 2012
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest BC Trek

Ama Dablam loomed right above us when we stepped out of the teahouse this morning, yesterday’s afternoon clouds dissipating to reveal the mountains surrounding Pangboche. With the sun cresting over the ridges above and warming us up, we hit the trail bound for Namche Bazaar. Heading downhill we made great time down the trail, passing the dozens of rows of mani stones and chortens lining the trail below Pangboche. We paused outside of the monastery in Tengboche, sitting at the bakery for a bit, before continuing on down to Dudh Kosi raging below at the base of the ridge.

The trail was busy with travelers today as loads of gear for upcoming Everest Expeditions made their way up the valley and at times we felt a bit like fish swimming upstream as trains of yaks pushed their way up the trail. The change in scenery from the mountains above is marked: birds, blooming flowers, tall swaying trees surrounded us as we hiked down the trail, a far cry from the glaciers and rocks of just a few days ago.

By mid-afternoon we rounded the last turn on the trail and dropped back into Namche. With the height of trekking season quickly approaching Namche is buzzing with activity and it feels like we’ve stepped back into a bustling metropolis: small shops open up onto every available street space, people walking back and forth, dogs and yaks alike wandering amid it all. We didn’t even break stride going through town, walking directly into our teahouse here, dropping our bags, and headed in for an eagerly anticipated hot shower. The little luxuries we enjoy routinely at home take on a whole new meaning after many days in the mountains.

We are very happy top be here and enjoying the scene in Namche. We covered a lot of ground in the past few days as we retrace our steps down the trail that took us the better part of two weeks to go up and the team is doing well, strongly climbing the many ups and downs of the trail.  Tomorrow morning we continue heading down the valley, bound for Lukla where the trail ends and we catch our flight back to Kathmandu.

RMI Guide Linden Mallory

On The Map

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Everest Base Camp Trek: Tucker & Team Arrive in Everest Base Camp

Posted by: Mark Tucker | April 01, 2012
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest BC Trek
Elevation: 17,575'

Mark Tucker here at Everest Base Camp. Wahoo! We have a star and moon lit night staring up at the Khumbu Icefall… It is as beautiful as it gets. We had an extra day we spent there at Gorak Shep. We tackled Kala Patar under some pretty good conditions. Took an extra day so we can really enjoy Base Camp here. We walked into a fantastic set-up as usual. Our [RMI] Operations Manager, Jeff Martin, is amazing. Can’t say thanks enough for what he does to put this trip together and the way he slaves here at this altitude, it’s just incredible and we just owe a special thank you to Jeff. We are real comfortable and a fantastic meal. Our local cook, Kumar, whipped it out. Showers tomorrow and we’ll hopefully go for a nice walk on the end of the glacier, see some Himalayan peaks, and show the team around. Kim and John are doing fantastic… It’s been quite a haul to get here… Looking forward for the next phase to continue just the same. We are going to do some good training tomorrow, get all geared up. Work through a few of the bits and pieces that will get us ready for the climb of Island Peak. All’s well here and this is no an April Fool’s joke so I’m not pulling a fast one on you. We’ll be talking to you tomorrow.

RMI Guide Mark Tucker

On The Map

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Everest Base Camp Trek: Linden Recounts Summit Day

Posted by: Linden Mallory | April 01, 2012
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest BC Trek
Elevation: 12,700'

The days since our last dispatch were packed full of activity as we headed out to climb Island Peak. After saying goodbye to the trekking group, we walked up the Imja Khola Valley to the village of Chukung, a small collection of teahouses sitting between Lhotse, Ama Dablam, and Island Peak. Our teahouse is run by a Sherpani woman and her two daughters and they welcomed us warmly, feeding us a hearty dal bhat (Nepali rice and lentils) which we unanimously agreed is the best to be found in the Khumbu. Before going to sleep we pared down our gear in anticipation of the climb, taking with us just the gear we needed for the climb.

In the morning we left Chukung and made the final walk to the base of Island Peak. A sharp wind blew as we walked, making the morning feel much colder than it was, and we made our way through the dusty and rocky terrain bundled up to stay warm. We reached Base Camp by midday and settled into our tents there, enjoying the warmth of the sun through the tent walls. The wind died off by mid afternoon and we spent a comfortable evening in the tents at Base Camp.

The following morning broke clear but again with a cold wind blowing through camp. We packed up our gear and headed up to High Camp. The trail climbs steeply out of camp, making tight switchbacks up the hillside. The thin alpine grasses covering the ground soon gave away to rocks and boulders as we left the last sparse vegetation behind. High Camp is tucked into the rocks on the mountain side just below 18,000’ and the walking between tents required full attention, especially at those altitudes. We spent the rest of the afternoon resting and preparing for the climb. In the early evening the clouds descended over the mountain and left a thin layer of snow covering everything and we went to bed concerned that more snow could abort our summit attempt.

Thankfully the night sky full of stars greeted us when we woke up just before 2am, the climb was on! We forced down a quick breakfast, no easy task at that hour or that elevation, and set off. The first few hours of climbing took us up a series of steep rocky gullies and occasional ledges. The normally tricky walking was magnified by the layer of freshly fallen snow but we made good progress, reaching the toe of the glacier just after sunrise. We strapped on our crampons and climbed up and across the glacier to the base of the headwall below Island Peak’s summit. Clipping into the fixed lines there, we climbed our way up the headwall, crossing the bergshcrund and working our way up the steep icy face. The headwall was a mix of smooth ice and ledges several feet apart and it was difficult climbing, especially with no place to pause and catch our breaths. Nevertheless, the team climbed steadily and before long we stood on the ridge leading up the summit. The final hundred feet of climbing took us up a narrow snow ridge, with thousands of feet of exposure on each side, until we reached the top, a small flat area no bigger than the size of a pool table.

The views from the summit were incredible, the ridge between Lhotse and Nuptse rising directly behind us, Makalu visible in the distance, Ama Dablam off to the side, and the entire upper portion of the Khumbu Valley running out below us. After a brief moment to celebrate, we turned our attention to the descent, carefully picking our way down the ridge to the top of the headwall. As we clipped into the ropes to rappel down the headwall the snow once again began to fall and the temperatures dropped, making the rope changes at the end of each rappel section difficult with cold hands. We slowly made our way down the series of five rappels to the foot of the headwall, and then recrossed the glacier back to the rocks. The final portion of the descent was very challenging with the added snow and tired legs but everyone traveled remarkably well, crossing the slick rock slabs and descending the rock steps with sure feet.

We returned back to High Camp in the late afternoon and after a delicious dinner, collapsed into a deep night’s sleep. This morning we descended from High Camp back to Chukung where we paused for a lunch of Sherpa Stew (thick vegetable soup) and then continued down the valley to Pangboche, at 12,700’. The change of scenery from the rocks and snow on Island Peak to the fields and juniper trees here in Pangboche is remarkable, we have spent many days up high and being back down at these (relatively) low altitudes feels great. And the warm fire burning here in the teahouse is a true treat. The team climbed incredibly well on Island Peak, doing a great job of navigating the terrain and challenging conditions. We are all feeling good and happy to be heading downhill. We descend to Namche tomorrow and will check in from there.

RMI Guide Linden Mallory

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