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Posts from 09/2010

Elbrus Northside Team at High Camp, preparing for Summit Bid.

Posted by: | September 04, 2010
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Elbrus Northside
Elevation: 15,200'

We awoke to clear skies and calm winds around camp this morning. The thick cloud cap that had become a fixture over the summit the past few days dissapated over night and we watched the final traces of it blow away as we ate breakfast. We could see that moderate winds still persisted high on the mountain but otherwise conditions looked ideal for our move to Camp 2.

We packed up camp and set off back up the glacier, having no difficulties navigating the crevasses despite the heavy packs. The winds continued to rise a bit as we climbed higher, but never were they unmanageable. By midafternoon we reached the clustering of rocks at ~15,000’ below Elbrus’ east summit known as Lenz Rocks. There we established Camp 2, our high camp. It was difficult work to clear the tent sites and move rocks around and we were breathing hard at this altitude. Moderate yet considerate winds continued to blow making setting up each tent a full team activity. But soon we had camp established and were able to crawl into the tents and escape the winds. The team climbed very strongly today, putting in an impressive effort to reach and establish high camp in these squirrely conditions. Spirits remain high and we are all excited to be in position to make a go for the top.

We are hoping to make a summit bid tomorrow if the winds drop off as they are forecasted to do but right now they are still quite considerable so we will have to wait to see what the morning brings. Keep your fingers crossed that they die down!

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Cho Oyu Expedition Begins

Posted by: | September 04, 2010
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Cho Oyu

Hello Everyone and welcome to RMI’s 2010 Cho Oyu climb.

After some really long flights the team has all safely arrived in Kathmandu, Nepal. We are starting this journey here in Nepal which is the launching point for most Himalayan expeditions. The team has spent the last few days getting acquainted, doing some last minute shopping, and finalizing our packing. We will be flying to the capital of Tibet, Lhasa, tomorrow, then driving across the great Tibetan plateau for about a week while we acclimatize before we reach Cho Oyu base camp. Meanwhile all of our food and gear will be driving around with our Sherpa crew via a different route to meet us there. We are excited to have two of the best Sherpas with us, Tendi and Lama Babu. They have been climbing in the Himalayas for most of their lives and have climbed with RMI for the last several seasons. They have been on dozens of expeditions and between them have 14 summits of Mt. Everest! We will also be lucky to have our wonderful cook Kumar with us to help keep us well fed.

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Elbrus Northside Team waits at Camp 1 for weather

Posted by: | September 03, 2010
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Elbrus Northside
Elevation: 12,300'

The winds picked up again after dinner yesterday and continued to blow all night, not letting up until the early hours of the morning today. When we emerged from the tents they had died to a whisper around camp but they continued to rage higher up on the mountain. We could see gusts of wind carrying giant waves of spindrifted snow through the rocks at Camp 2 from down below as we ate breakfast. With the weather still poor up high we opted not to push up to Camp 2 today to cache gear, choosing instead to climb part of the way, focusing on reviewing climbing skills and acclimatizing a bit.

Thankfully the winds seemed to stay above 14,000’ today, making for great climbing conditions below. We left camp and set out onto the glacier, gradually ascending the lower slopes to a bench at ~12,600’. After so many days of travel and approach on the lower mountain, it felt great to at last be using our climbing gear on Elbrus. Above the bench the pitch steepens a bit and a sizable system of crevasses cuts across the slope, forcing us to carefully pick our way amongst them to gain the smoother slopes above. At ~13,500’ we reached a false plateau where the winds from above began to hit us. With our training and acclimatization accomplished for the day, we headed back down our route to camp.

Returning to camp by midafternoon, we spent a leisurely couple of hours lounging amid the rocks soaking in the sun. After 36 hours of intense winds and precipitation it felt nice to sit outside in short sleeves.

We have just wrapped up dinner and are finishing sorting our gear for tomorrow. If our improving weather pattern holds we will move to Camp 2 tomorrow and be in position for a summit bid.

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Elbrus Northside Team at Camp 1

Posted by: | September 02, 2010
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Elbrus Northside
Elevation: 12,300'

Around midnight last night the winds began to pick up here at Camp 1. Sweeping down off of the mountain’s scoured glaciers, they would come barreling through camp, howling as they relentlessly shook the tents. Needless to say, sleep was intermittent as the tents shook and flapped throughout the night. Although the winds had yet to abate by morning it was clear and the sun soon found us, warming us quickly.

Because of the wind we dragged our feet a bit during breakfast before departing, escaping the gusts by retreating to a nearby hut used by our outfitter where we could enjoy our hot drinks with a little more protection. Thankfully, the deterioration in the weather didn’t affect us much since we descended back below camp to our cache where the morraine deflected most of the winds coming down off of the mountain.

We made a quick descent to our cache carrying only light packs, reloading them with all of the gear we stashed there on Tuesday. Our improving acclimatization and growing comfort with the trail was evidenced by how efficiently we climbed back up to Camp 1 through the loose rock and scree, everyone clearly showing their strength as we made good time through the difficult terrain. Back at camp the winds had lessened but continued to blow as clouds began to settle in. As we traded stories over lunch a wet groppel began to come down, lightly at first and then in sheets, covering the rocks around us in an uneven dusting of white. We retreated back to the tents in the afternoon to relax and rest and escape the weather outside.

The groppel has since stopped and the storm seems to be lessening at the moment. As we head off for dinner the occasional sun beam breaks through the clouds and illuminates the tent walls. Our plan tomorrow is to make an acclimatization climb towards Camp 2, hopefully leaving another small cache up there in preparation for our summit bid. We will check in tomorrow and let you know if the weather cooperates.

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Elbrus Northside Team moves to Camp 1

Posted by: | September 01, 2010
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Elbrus Northside
Elevation: 12,300'

A patchwork of clouds hung over the Caucasus this morning, diffusing the sunlight and hiding the morning sun. The almost sullen atmosphere didn’t hold us back and we eagerly broke camp and hit the trail. The clouds kept the temperatures cool and we made great time, reaching our previous day’s highpoint where we cached our gear by midday.

The final 800’ of climbing above the cache took us off of the well worn climber’s trail below and into the continually shifting slopes of scree - small, loose rock - that makes up the glacial morraine. It is full attention walking as each step must be chosen with care to avoid slipping back down in the loose rock and we carefully picked our way upwards, soon gaining the plateau where Camp 1 resides.

Perched amongst the rocky morraine alongside the Ullmalgender Glacier, Camp 1 sits at the base of the broad sweeping slopes of ice and snow that rise up to form Elbrus’ twin summits and offers stunning views of the entire north side of the mountain. Off in the other direction we can gaze out across the rolling green plateaus, occasionally cut by the small dirt road that we drove along to reach the mountain. The sun had been gradually fighting its way back throughout the morning and by the time we reached camp it was another clear afternoon, interrupted every so often by gusts of wind sweeping down off of the mountain. After a solid day of climbing we set up camp and then crawled into the tents to relax for a bit before dinner.

The team climbed strongly today, making it to camp in just over six and a half hours. We are tired but happy to be here at the glacier’s edge. Tomorrow we will descend back to our cache to retrieve our gear in the morning and then spend some time in the afternoon brushing up on our glacier travel skills.

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