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Posts from 02/2012

Aconcagua Expedition: Carry to Camp 2

Posted by: Billy Nugent | February 09, 2012
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Aconcagua
Elevation: 16,200'

Another day of near perfect weather! So, we took advantage by bringing another load of supplies further up the mountain to our Camp 2 or Chopper Camp. There used to pieces of a wrecked helicopter strewn about camp but today’s visit confirmed the fact that most of the wreckage has been removed. All of the guys on the team performed extremely well on our first mission above 18,000’.  Upon returning to camp it seems that several teams moved up today so there’s lots of room in Camp 1. Right now we’re laying around after the day’s work contemplating our next move…

All for now,

RMI Guide Billy Nugent

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Aconcagua Expedition: The Team Moves to Camp 1

Posted by: Billy Nugent | February 08, 2012
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Aconcagua
Elevation: 16,200'

Today we made our first big move up the mountain as we left basecamp and have settled in atAconagua’s Camp 1. Despite a couple hiccups (negotiating with some Russians over tent platforms, some minor blisters, and acquainting ourselves with the bio-bag human waste system) today’s move was the smoothest I’ve seen. The guys are all in great spirits after having a great meal and a hot drink before crawling in for the night. We hope to take advantage of more good weather forecasted for tomorrow by pushing another carry up to our Camp 2, also know as Chopper Camp.

We’ll check in again tomorrow evening,

RMI Guides Billy Nugent & Leon Davis

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RMI GUIDE ADAM KNOFF SHARES HIS THOUGHTS BEFORE COMPETING IN THE TEVA MOUNTAIN GAMES

Posted by: Adam Knoff | February 07, 2012
Categories: *Guide News

I am excited to announce that tomorrow I leave for Vail, Colorado, to represent RMI in a mixed climbing competition put on by the Teva Mountain Games.  Alongside my passion for guiding individuals up big snowy peaks, I for some reason find the odd sport of scratching up steep rock with ice tools to be downright irresistible.  I am blessed to live twenty miles from Hyalite Canyon, Montana, where the art of “drytooling” can put your imagination to the test.  No one in the mixed climbing world knows of me so when I sneak up and quietly take the number one spot on the Teva podium and everyone asks, “Who’s that guy?”  I can say,” I climb Mt. Rainier for a living”.  Wish me luck while I compete with the big boys and take my game to their turf.

RMI Guide Adam Knoff

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Aconcagua Expedition: Rest Day at Base Camp

Posted by: Billy Nugent | February 07, 2012
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Aconcagua
Elevation: 13,800'

Not a lot to report on our last rest day at Base Camp. The crew has been keeping busy reading, jamming tunes, tanning, etc. RMI Guide Leon Davis lead the guys through a knot and anchor session that everyone found interesting. Other than that we’ve just been chilling, trying not to be anxious about the big day tomorrow on our move to Camp 1. We’ll check in from over 16k tomorrow!

All for now,

RMI Guide Billy Nugent

P.S. William would also like to wish his son John a very happy birthday! He wishes he could be there to share it with you.

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Mt. Rainier: Winter Expedition Skills Seminar at Camp Muir

Posted by: Seth Waterfall | February 07, 2012
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,060'

Hi from Camp Muir.  After a long day on the Muir Snowfield yesterday we awoke to clear skies and light winds.  We are taking full advantage of the beautiful conditions by practicing our cramponing, ice axe technique and self arrest skills.  This afternoon we plan on breaking out the ropes and practicing glacier travel and pitched climbing techniques.  We’re hoping the weather holds for the rest of the week!

RMI Guide Seth Waterfall and the Winter Skills Seminar crew.

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Aconcagua Expedition: Carry to Camp 1

Posted by: Billy Nugent | February 06, 2012
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Aconcagua
Elevation: 13,800'

Today’s plans called for our first foray onto the mountain above basecamp. After a quick breakfast the crew got busy organizing loads of both personal and group gear, food for nearly 12 days, and a couple of gallons of fuel. We then set out for Camp 1 climbing along a lateral moraine, crossing a glacial remnant, and finally ascending a long scree slope (brutally loose) into the camp at over 16,000’.  We put a cache together, took a nap in the sun, and then cruised back down to Plaza Argentina. All in all, we spent a little less than 7 hours in the field and the team performed exceptionally well. The guys were really excited to finally get down to the nitty gritty of climbing this thing.

Tired but happy in Plaza Argentina,

RMI Guides Billy Nugent, Leon Davis, and the gang.

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Aconcagua Expedition: Rest Day at Base Camp

Posted by: Billy Nugent | February 05, 2012
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Aconcagua
Elevation: 13,800'

Greetings from our rest day here at Plaza Argentina. After a lazy morning lounging in our tents we convened in our weather port for a terrific brunch of bacon, eggs, and of course REAL coffee. Most of us felt a bit ragged from our first night at nearly 14,000’ but after a solid meal everyone seems to have bounced back and they’re all enjoying another beautiful day reading, playing cards, and the like.

Leon and I are spending the afternoon drinking mate and packing up our supplies for tomorrow’s carry up to Camp 1.

Adios,

RMI Guide Billy Nugent

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Aconcagua Expedition: Team Arrives at Base Camp

Posted by: Billy Nugent | February 05, 2012
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Aconcagua
Elevation: 13,800'

After our third consecutive day of walking we’ve finally arrived at Aconcagua Basecamp in beautiful Plaza Argentina (13,800’). After a nice snack we settled in to camp by setting up our tents and then enjoying a wonderful steak dinner courtesy of the great Grajales staff. Leon and I also pulled a little surprise of our own with some Cabernet for the team to celebrate our arrival. Who says that you can’t eat great while mountaineering? Anyway, tomorrow calls for a needed rest day as we can all certainly feel the effects of our new altitude…

Ciao from base camp,

RMI Guide Billy Nugent

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Aconcagua Expedition: Trek Camp 2

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Leon Davis | February 05, 2012
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Aconcagua
Elevation: 10,550'

Day two on the trail was another splitter day with a great breeze to keep the heat at bay. Our team rolled out of camp at about nine this morning and enjoyed a great stretch of trail into the next camp at Casa de Piedra. Currently we’re lounging riverside and soaking up some afternoon sun. Although everybody’s chilling now, our first glimpse of the mountain today was a reminder of the prospective climb ahead and all of the hard work that entails. We’ll check in again tomorrow from Aconcagua basecamp at Plaza Argentina after we climb up through the Relinchos Valley…

RMI Guides Billy Nugent, Leon Davis, & the team

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Aconcagua Expedition: Day 1 on the Trail

Posted by: Billy Nugent | February 05, 2012
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Aconcagua

The team awoke in Penitentes this morning to blue skies and plenty of sunshine to greet us for our first day on the trail. We spent the better part of the morning tying up loose ends and finishing our preparations for the herrieros.  A comfortable breeze was blowing all day which tempered the heat and made the walk in to Pampa de Lenas most enjoyable. An early arrival in camp meant a nice little siesta in the sun before the mules arrived with our supplies. After dining on spaghetti with meat sauce the crew has mostly retired to their tents except for a few avid stargazers who are psyched to see the southern sky for the first time. The group is made up of a bunch of great people and we are all feeling the excitement of finally getting this adventure underway!

That’s about all for now,

RMI Guide Billy Nugent

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