RMI Expeditions BlogRSS

Posts from 05/2012

Mt. Rainier: May 26th Update

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Dan Windham | May 26, 2012
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 11,000'

The Four Day and Five Day Summit Climbs reached Ingraham Flats this morning on their summit attempt.  The weather has been unsettled, which resulted in unfavorable route conditions.

Both teams are safely off the mountain enjoying their program wrap up with their guides.

1

---

Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team at 9,500’ Camp

Posted by: Brent Okita, Leon Davis, Lindsay Mann | May 26, 2012
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 9,500'

Today marked our last day pulling full loads, and I think we’re all pretty psyched about that! Our five hour climb began after waking up to three inches of snow and white-out conditions. But such conditions are certainly not unusual on the Kahiltna, and so after a hearty breakfast of fried bagels, cream cheese and bacon we tackled Ski Hill.

Pulling huge sleds and shouldering monstrous packs is a given when climbing Denali, but is no small measure of character and sheer physical tenacity of the climber who accepts that challenge. And it is by meeting that challenge today that this team has really demonstrated a strength of will that will serve them well on this trip.

Tomorrow begins the time in the trip when we start splitting up our loads and ferrying them up the mountain in stages. We’re looking forward to this, but I know that these first two days have only made us stronger, and in the end, better prepared for the demands that lie ahead. We’ll move camp up to 11,200’ camp tomorrow and finally enjoy setting up a camp where we’ll be for at least three days. I think the crew is going to welcome finally being able to build a ‘proper’ mountain home, replete with protective walls around the tents and enclosed commodes. What an energetic and motivated team. I’m a lucky guide.

RMI Guide Brent Okita

On The Map

Sign Up For Mount McKinley 2012 Email Alerts

7

---

Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Ready for Summit Bid

Posted by: Mike Walter, Pete Van Deventer | May 26, 2012
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'

Hey guys, this is Mike Walter calling from high camp on Denali, 17,200’. We’re all doing great. We are all tucked into our sleeping bags. We moved up here yesterday and rested today. We are hoping for good weather to go for the summit tomorrow, which would be Saturday, May 26th. The forecast is for pretty light winds and some clouds so it is looking promising. We’ll give you guy a shout either from up top or back at camp hopefully. Alright. We’ll see you.

RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

Sign Up For Mount McKinley 2012 Email Alerts

14

---

Mt. Everest Expedition: The Team is Resting at Camp 2 on Their Descent

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Melissa Arnot | May 26, 2012
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 21,000'

After making great progress on their descent, RMI Guides Dave Hahn & Melissa Arnot and team are safely at Camp 2!  It was a long day but sleep will be so nice with the thick air of 21,000’.

I will continue to send updates as the team makes their way back to Everest Basecamp.

RMI Guide and Everest Basecamp Manager Mark Tucker

On The Map

Sign Up For Everest 2012 Email Alerts

5

---

Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Back Carry

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Geoff Schellens, Anne Gilbert Chase | May 25, 2012
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

Today saw pretty much constant snow all day long. Fortunately, the winds have remained calm and our crew was able to back-carry today despite the precipitation and stay right on schedule. We are now sitting pretty at 14,200’ with all of our provisions and fuel. The weather is supposed to remain a little bit squirrelly through tomorrow which will coincide nicely with a well-deserved rest day. We spent most of the afternoon after the back-carry chilling in the posh and sport eating. Good times. The crew is in good spirits and pumped for the climbing ahead!

RMI Guide Billy Nugent

Sign Up For Mount McKinley 2012 Email Alerts

9

---

Mt. Everest Expedition:  RMI Team Reaches Summit!

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Melissa Arnot | May 25, 2012
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 29,035'

On Saturday, May 26th at 9:31 a.m. Nepali time the RMI 2012 Mt. Everest Expedition reached the summit!
RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Melissa Arnot led the team of climbers to the summit of Mt. Everest at 29,035’.  This marks the 14th summit for Dave Hahn and the 4th for Melissa Arnot.

Congratulations to the team!!!

On The Map

Sign Up For Everest 2012 Email Alerts

23

---

Mt. Everest: Team is at the South Summit!

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Melissa Arnot | May 25, 2012
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 28,750'

RMI Guide Dave Hahn contacted Everest Base Camp from the South Summit.  The team is doing well and the weather is great.  They are enjoying watching the sunrise and have gotten some great photos. 

The team is taking a break at the South Summit which will allow climbers descending from the summit to get past.  The weather is great, the team is strong, they have plenty of oxygen and a good pace so far.

RMI Guide and Everest Base Camp Manager Mark Tucker

Sign Up For Everest 2012 Email Alerts

1

---

Mt. Everest Expedition: The Team is at the Balcony!

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Melissa Arnot | May 25, 2012
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 27,600'

May 26th, 4:30 a.m. Nepali time:

Our Sirdar Sherpa, Lam Babu, is at the South Col and relaying messages during the climb.

Dave Hahn, Melissa Arnot and the team are at the Balcony!  The climbing team is changing oxygen bottles, having a snack and a drink. Next stop the South Summit!

Here at Everest Basecamp, the top of Pumori is just starting to catch some light. No wind. It’s a beautiful morning!

RMI Guide and Everest Basecamp Manager Mark Tucker

Sign Up For Everest 2012 Email Alerts

1

---

Mt. Rainier: May 25th Update

Posted by: Tyler Reid, J.J. Justman, Jake Beren | May 25, 2012
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,000'

Expedition Skills Seminar: May 20 - 25, 2012

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir led by RMI Guides J.J. Justman and Jake Beren have enjoyed several days of training at Camp Muir.  The team members received instruction on crevasse rescue, avalanche forecasting, building snow anchors and much more.  Weather and snow conditions prevented the team from making a summit attempt.  They began their descent from Camp Muir at 10 a.m. Pacific Time.

Liberty Ridge Climb: May 20 - 25, 2012

The Liberty Ridge Climb led by RMI Guides Tyler Reid and Elias de Andres Martos began at the White River Trailhead on Tuesday, May 22.  Conditions on the mountain prevented them from attempting the Liberty Ridge climb.  They did make a summit attempt via the Little Tahoma route but were turned by deteriorating weather.  The team will return to Ashford this afternoon.

 

---

Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team Smooth Sailing

Posted by: Brent Okita, Leon Davis, Lindsay Mann | May 25, 2012
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 7,800'

What a day! Right from the start everything fell in place perfectly. Our last breakfast at the Roadhouse was savored before we made our way to our air service, K2 Aviation, who were great about getting us off the Tarmac ahead of schedule. This set us up to walk out of Basecamp at a reasonable hour, which allowed us to reach camp at 7,800’ by 5:30.

But the real highlight of the day was just how well everyone climbed and dealt with what is usually a pretty tough day. I’m impressed. I must say, though, that the weather cooperated today too. Warm temperatures, blue skies and calm winds might have had us perspiring just a tad, but I didn’t hear much complaining about it. Although some evening clouds formed while we were having dinner, I think we might have a good day tomorrow as we make our way up Ski Hill to 9,500’ camp.

Talk with you then.

RMI Guide Brent Okita

On The Map

Sign Up For Mount McKinley 2012 Email Alerts

---

Previous Page More Entries