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Posts from 01/2013

Aconcagua: Van Deventer & Team Move to Camp 1

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Leon Davis, Mike King | January 27, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Aconcagua
Elevation: 16,200'

We made the move to Aconcagua Camp 1! We’re now resting in our tents at 16800’ or so. The group did great and climbed strong. When we woke, there were clouds over the summit, and towards the end of our first stretch, a sudden snow squall blew threw, sending us scrambling for our hard shells. For the next couple of hours, sun alternated with clouds, making it hard to choose the correct layers. Just as we got ready for the last hard climb up a scree hill to camp, the snow set in in earnest. The group did great getting camp set quickly so everyone could get into shelter. We’re settled in for the night now, and our hope is to wake to nice weather so that we can bump a cache of food and gear to Camp 2 tomorrow. Wish us luck!

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer and crew

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Aconcagua: Van Deventer & Team Rest Day at Basecamp

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Leon Davis, Mike King | January 26, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Aconcagua
Elevation: 13,800'

It’s been a lazy day here at Plaza Argentina, which was exactly what the doctor ordered after the group’s big effort yesterday. We woke late, cooked up a big batch of crêpes stuffed with bacon, fried apples, and dulce de leche for brunch. A few hours later, after books, more jokes, and a card game, we fried up some croque monsieur (sense the French food theme today?), and then went for a nice hour-long stroll up towards Ibañez,  a sub peak outside of Basecamp. As hard as it can be to motivate for a hike after a day like yesterday, it really does aid and speed recovery. Our gear that will stay at Basecamp is sorted, and we are very ready for our move to Camp 1 tomorrow! Just one more delicious Argentine meal first…

Hasta luego,

RMI Guides Pete, Leon, Mike, and the team

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Aconcagua Expedition: Team checks in from Basecamp

Posted by: Leon Davis, Mike King, Pete Van Deventer | January 25, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Aconcagua
Elevation: 13,800'

Today the group woke to a cold and snow covered base camp. In preparation of our carry to Camp 1 the team received their loads yesterday. We started walking after breakfast and hot drinks. Our goal today was to cache our food and equipment for the upper mountain, while climbing higher then descending to help acclimate. Climbing through loose scree with heavy packs is always an eye opener for what lies ahead. The team climbed strong and enjoyed a blue sky with light winds.  We spent an hour at 16,000+ before returning down to Aconcagua Basecamp as an evening storm approached. There is a day off tomorrow, which the entire team is looking forward to.

Cheers

RMI Guide Mike King and crew

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Aconcagua: Van Deventer & Team Rest Day at Base Camp

Posted by: Mike King, Pete Van Deventer, Leon Davis | January 24, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Aconcagua
Elevation: 13,800'

Despite being a rest day, today has flown by for the group. We were able to sleep in a bit, but most were woken at 7:30 to the park helicopter hovering low over camp, picking up barrels in a sling to be flown off the mountain. We took a leisurely breakfast of burritos with fresh veggies, bacon, cheese, and eggs, and then headed to the medical building for our obligatory check-up. Everyone passed with flying colors. Then it was time for gear sorting for our carry to Camp 1 tomorrow. This often takes longer than expected as everyone hemmed and hawed over how much lunch food and other items to bring up. To this point, we have been spoiled with the mules carrying most of our kit. From here up though, anything we bring up, we will carry down.

Sorting finished, everyone took a siesta, eating lunch, taking naps, playing cards, and reciting Chuck Norris jokes. Despite a forecast of clear weather for the foreseeable future, the clouds built this afternoon, and as we sit, it is snowing gently at Basecamp.

We’ll have more news tomorrow when we are back from our carry. Ciao.

RMI Guides Mike King, Pete Van Deventer, Leon Davis, and the team

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Aconcagua: Van Deventer & Team Settling in at Base Camp

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Leon Davis, Mike King | January 23, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Aconcagua
Elevation: 13,800'

We made it to our base camp at Plaza Argentina! We got an early start this morning in order to take advantage of the muleteers offer to ferry us across the Vacas River. For some, it was their first time riding a mule, and it was a much more pleasant start to the morning than wading the four frosty channels would have been.

It’s a pleasant walk up the canyon of the Relinchos River, and before we knew it, we were walking into Base Camp to be greeted with juice and fresh melon from our excellent outfitter, Grajales. They cooked a wonderful dinner for us tonight and will handle our meals for our stay at Base Camp.

On tap for tomorrow is a well deserved rest day. We’ll use the time to sort gear for the carry to Camp 1 the following day. Before all that though: a big breakfast of breakfast burritos.

Hasta luego.

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer and the RMI Aconcagua team

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Aconcagua: Van Deventer & Team Reach Casa de Piedras

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Leon Davis, Mike King | January 22, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Aconcagua
Elevation: 10,550'

Hola from Casa de Piedras! Today’s weather was a total contrast to yesterday’s, as we wound our way further up the Vacas Valley. We woke this morning to clear skies that turned to sun as it cleared the canyon walls. It made for a pleasant walk as we covered the nine miles or so from camp last night. A light breeze helped to keep things from getting too hot.

The trail crosses the river over a small foot bridge immediately out of camp. Once on the opposite bank, it alternates between following the river bank, and rising over a chain of small bluffs. Casa de Piedras is located at the mouth of the Relinchos Valley and river. Tomorrow we will cross the Vacas, and leave this valley behind as we ascend the Relinchos to base camp at 14,000 feet. Everyone is in great spirits (it’s amazing the power that big orb in the sky has) and sends their best. Tomorrow we’ll touch base from Plaza Argentina!

Cheers,

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer and Team

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Ecuador Seminar: Illiniza Sur Summit and Seminar Winds Down

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Casey Grom | January 22, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Ecuador

Ecuador Skills Seminar 2013 is coming to a close.  Although we did not attempt to climb the tallest of our three chosen mountains which should have taken place today, we settled for a 17,500 foot consolation prize, Illiniza Sur.  We left our hostel this morning at 1 am and began the two hour approach to the hut at 1:45.  Forty five minutes into the hike we had to stop and don rain gear to ward off the cold mist that was beginning to soak us.  By the time we reached the hut the mist had turned to snow.  Sadly the weather was not the only thing going south.  By the time we were ready to depart, Jaime our local guide was too ill to continue, Suzanne was too knackered from her battle with a loose gut and Jan began to have stomach cramps.  By the time we filed out, only Gary and Clark were able to ascend with both Casey and myself.  With a one to one ratio the steep, technical terrain we encountered was greatly entertaining.  Not to mention the weather broke just as we were approaching the glacier.  From bottom to top and back again, this climb was a fantastic way to end our time together as a climbing team.  I am really bummed we could not all stand on top together but tonight we become a party team.  It is always important to remember the summit isn’t everything.  Tonight we are all ready for a grand fiesta of both food and spirits.  Our time in Ecuador has been packed with good laughs, good climbing and great people.  We will miss it.  But now we are all deeply anticipating the reunion with family friends and ice climbing.  Thanks to everyone who followed along and gave support.  Hasta mañana. 

RMI Guide Adam Knoff

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Aconcagua: Van Deventer & Team at Pampa de Lenas

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Leon Davis, Mike King | January 21, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Aconcagua
Elevation: 9,000'

Good evening ladies and gentlemen from the team at Pampa de Leñas.  Yesterday we left the hot and humid climate in Mendoza for Los Penitentes where we enjoyed our last night in a warm bed and feasted in the Hotel Ayelen dining hall.  This morning we began our hike into the Vacas Valley under some un-characteristic weather indeed.  Instead of a clear blue sky and unrelenting sun, we left Punta de Vacas in a light rain and cool breeze. But as we pressed on, the rain soon subsided and we enjoyed a pleasant hike into camp where we had our tents up by 4:30 and dinner by 6:30. The team did a great job on this first day and we look forward to sunny skies tomorrow as we continue up the Vacas Valley to our next camp at the ‘House of Stone’. 
Hope everyone enjoyed their Monday; we certainly enjoyed ours.

Until Tuesday…

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

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Mountaineering Training | Cross Training

Posted by: | January 21, 2013
Categories: *Mountaineering Fitness & Training

As we focus forward on the training for this year’s climbing adventures, we know we’ll be hiking, climbing, probably doing some stair interval training with heavy packs, and developing strength training routines.

The training adventures need not be boring though, cross-training keeps us both balanced and motivated.

I like to categorize my cross training by asking, “Is this a direct benefit to mountain climbing or is this activity more general conditioning focused?” Sports like cycling, cross-country skiing or skating have a very direct benefit in building endurance for the mountains, in fact a bike ride can be a perfect substitute for a hike.

Other sports like soccer, kickboxing, or activities like dancing and yoga, while perhaps not as directly related to mountain climbing, can have wonderful benefits for overall conditioning.

Thinking out of the box completely, I met a person last week who did remarkably well on a training hike despite not having ‘trained’ very much. I asked him where he thought his fitness came from and he said, “I’m a UPS driver, I use a pedometer to track my steps and generally do 15,000 steps each day - most of them carrying boxes.” 15,000 steps equals about 5 miles walking! I think he’s going to have a big head-start on his 16 week training program!

Cross training is an important part of your training program, keeping you mentally engaged and physically healthy. Beyond the cornerstones of your regular training program that includes long hikes, short intense sessions, and strength training, what fun things do you enjoy to do to which add to your fitness? Are you lucky enough to have one of those jobs which gets you walking during the day? How can you plan your days to add an activity or sneak in a few extra miles from place to place? 

Get outside and be creative with your cross training!

We look forward to introducing ‘Fit To Climb The Sixteen Week Training Program for Mount Rainier’ over the next few weeks, starting in February and we will map out a weekly training plan each Monday as part of the Fit to Climb Program.

- John Colver

John Colver is a longtime climber, former mountain guide, and certified personal trainer with the American Council of Exercise. Colver introduced outdoor fitness classes to athletic clubs throughout the greater Puget Sound region before creating his adventX brand. Currently, adventX leads training programs in Seattle and Colver presents clinics on outdoor fitness at companies such as Microsoft, Boeing, the American Lung Association, and REI. Colver lives in Seattle, and is working on his second book, Fit to Climb - a 16 week Mount Rainier Fitness Program.

Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts with John and other readers on the RMI Blog!

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Mexico’s Volcanoes: Team Descends from Orizaba

Posted by: Seth Waterfall | January 19, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mexico

Shhhh everyone is sleeping… We’re all back in Tlachichuca and everyone has retired after our final team dinner.  Today we climbed to the summit of Pico de Orizaba in fantastic weather, the best I’ve ever had on this mountain.  Last night when I went to bed it looked like a storm front was moving towards us but when my alarm went off at 12:30am there wasn’t a cloud in the sky and no wind to speak of either.

We made it from the hut at 13,990’ to the 18,701’ summit and back in twelve and a half hours which was a long enough day to ensure that after showers and dinner all the climbers headed for bed.

We all agreed that the last 8 days have gone by extremely quickly and that we’ve had some great climbs.  Tomorrow we’ll head back to Mexico City for our flights home.

RMI Guide Seth Waterfall

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