Posts for Mount McKinley

Alaska Expedition Seminar: Team Enjoys Pulling Sleds and Glacier Climbing

Posted by: Andres Marin, Garrett Stevens, Katie Bono | May 22, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 7,300'

After our unsuccessful attempt climbing Radio Tower due avalanche conditions, we spent our last day hiking to the first camp on Denali. We all had the opportunity to pull sleds and go for a long glacier hike. The group enjoyed the views and exercise that took to get there. We finished our day climbing up Heartbreak Hill back to Denali Base Camp. All and all a fantastic day.

Tomorrow we will be packing our camp and be flying at noon back to Talkeetna.

RMI Guide Andres Marin

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Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Move to 14K Camp!

Posted by: Mike Walter, Solveig Waterfall, Ben Liken | May 20, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

Hello All!

We awoke this morning to calm winds and relatively warm temperatures; a welcome change from the last week of stormy living at 11,000’.  We had a quick breakfast and broke down tents just as the sun began to thaw out camp.  Eager to make our move, we started our ascent at 10 am and arrived at our camp in the Genet Basin at 14,200’ at 3:30pm.  Everyone did great and we enjoyed the warm sunshine and lack of chilly breeze getting around Windy Corner.

We spent the rest of the day working hard building walls and getting our camp in order.

Looking forward to getting a good nights rest and getting our cache tomorrow!

RMI Guide Mike Walter

Climbing towards Windy Corner. Photo: RMI Collection Looking through Camp Walls at 14,200' Camp. Photo: RMI Collection

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Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Establish Camp 2

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Kel Rossiter, Levi Kepsel | May 20, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 9,600'

Another beautiful day and another strong effort from our crew! We took advantage of more amazing weather and single-carried all of our gear and supplies up Ski Hill to set up shop at Camp 2, which sits at about 9,600’ on the upper reaches of the Kahiltna Glacier. Our guys clearly trained hard and the long hours on the stairmaster paid dividends today hauling massive loads. We rolled into camp around 4:30 which made for a leisurely afternoon getting situated and taking in the amazing views. After a hot dinner of tortellini alfredo, we all crawled into the tents and are currently waiting for the bitter cold to set in once the sun dips behind Kahiltna Dome.

That’s all for now, we’ll check in again tomorrow!

RMI Guide Billy Nugent

Pulling sleds up Ski Hill. Photo: RMI Collection

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Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team - The Winds Win Out

Posted by: Mike Walter, Solveig Waterfall, Ben Liken | May 20, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

We woke early this morning, had breakfast, and packed up camp, ready to move to 14,200’ before the sun had hit our tents. But the winds up high were too strong for my liking. We repitched our tents to seek shelter from the wind and waited for a few hours for the winds to abate. Unfortunately, the winds up high continued and a mean looking lenticular cloud had formed over Windy Corner, where we were headed. By noon we made the decision to stay in camp another day and avoid the risks of getting caught in a windstorm high in the mountains of Alaska.

So we wait another day. Such is expedition climbing. The weather forecast looks good for the next few days, and we’re confident that tomorrow will be the day to move camp. We’ll let you know how it goes.

RMI Guide Mike Walter

Looking up from 11K Camp, Mt. McKinley. Photo: RMI Collection

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Alaska Expedition Seminar: Marin & Team Practice Ice Climbing

Posted by: Andres Marin, Garrett Stevens, Katie Bono | May 20, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 7,300'

There is something about ice climbing in a crevasse that is just mind blowing.  Today the group got to experience ice climbing and how much fun it is.

We headed for the foot hills of Mt. Francis to find a deep crevasse suitable for great climbing.  Big smiles all day long.  Tomorrow we are getting ready to go climbing Radio Tower.  The team is excited to climb higher tomorrow and are doing well!

RMI Guide Andres Marin

Basecamp on the Kahiltna Glacier, Alaska.  Photo: RMI Collection

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Mt. McKinley:  Nugent & Team “Walking the Pigs”

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Kel Rossiter, Levi Kepsel | May 19, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 7,600'

“Pigs” is the term of endearment climbers use to describe any heavy load on a climb.  On Denali our “pigs” are our sleds, and today we took them for their first walk.  The team woke to a bluebird day—welcome after the days of gray—learned about packing, strapping, and roping up our sleds, and then took them out on the trail from Basecamp to 7,600’.  Day one of “walking the pigs” can often be a porcine rodeo with lots of grappling and twisting going on, but this crew made it look more like walking poodles at the Westchester Dog Show.  We’re now at the base of Ski Hill, firing the skillet with fajitas, enjoying the stunning scenery up the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna, and getting ready for tomorrow’s push into steeper terrain—this crew is ready for it.

RMI Guide Kel Rossiter

Climbing Teams Leaving Basecamp. Photo: Chris Villar

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Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Fly on to the Kahiltna Glacier!

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Kel Rossiter, Levi Kepsel | May 19, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 7,300'

Hey everybody, checking in from the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier where we are settled into Basecamp after a day of exciting weather. We woke this morning in Talkeetna to a couple inches of new snow on the ground and thought it was going to be another day of waiting around for flyable weather. But when I checked in with K2 at 8:00 they said it was actually clear at Basecamp and that as soon as the snow showers in town stopped we’d potentially be on our way.

Well, the clouds broke around noon and our intrepid crew loaded up onto a pair of otters and headed for the Alaska Range. Clouds enroute nearly forced us to turn around but our pilots were able to make it happen and delivered us safely to the Southeast Fork. Some unfortunate planes were forced to turn around after the runway shutdown because of a bank of clouds that rolled in soon after our arrival. These folks eventually made it in later on in the evening when everything cleared up. The views here are breathtaking, if a little humbling.

Wish us luck as we head out on the route first thing tomorrow!

RMI Guide Billy Nugent

The May 14, 3013, McKinley Team Ready for Takeoff. Photo: Billy Nugent

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Alaska Expedition Seminar: Marin & Team Enjoy Spectacular Views While Training

Posted by: Andres Marin, Garrett Stevens, Katie Bono | May 19, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 7,300'

Today we woke up with clear skies!  After breakfast we shouldered our packs and went for a hike to the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. The Fork offers spectacular views of the North Buttress of Mt. Hunter, South Face of Radio Tower, and the West Face of Kahiltna Queen.  We also learned about snow anchors and glacier travel.  It was really nice to be able to stretch our legs and hike around.  It certainly was a fantastic day.

We also had the opportunity to eat dinner outside enjoying the incredible views.  The weather is looking nice for the rest of the week, so we will be getting around.

Everyone is doing great!

RMI Guide Andres Marin

Moon over the Kahiltna Glacier. Photo: Katy Reid

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Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team See Improvements in the Weather

Posted by: Mike Walter, Solveig Waterfall, Ben Liken | May 18, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

The weather has definitely been improving for us. The winds have calmed, and only light snow has fallen today. The storm produced a little over two feet of snow, with deeper drifts. Hopefully the improving trend continues and we can move camp tomorrow. We’re all ready and rested for some more climbing.

That’s all the news from up high today.

RMI Guide Mike Walter

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Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Have Another Day in Talkeetna

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Kel Rossiter, Levi Kepsel | May 18, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 346'

Woke up this morning to snow on the ground and sleet falling from the sky.  It turns out that this doesn’t make for the safest bush flights or glacier landings so we spent another day hanging out in Talkeetna.  We ate a lot of food, hung out some, practiced crevasse rescue, hung out some more, and some of us even drank a couple beers. Tomorrow is calling for more of the same but with a chance of partial clearing later in the day.  We have our fingers crossed…

More to come as our expedition gets off the ground,

RMI Guide Billy Nugent

K2 plane waiting for good flying weather. Photo: Billy Nugent Hangar training with RMI Guide Levi Kepsel. Photo: Billy Nugent

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Recent Images From Mount McKinley

  • An RMI Team pulling sleds up Ski HIll on the Lower Kahiltna Glacier.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • An RMI Team Camped at 9,500 ft on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • The view from camp at 14,200 ft on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • The view from 11,000 ft with a cloud layer below.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • An RMI team making a carry above 11,000 ft to cache gear.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • Packed and ready to fly.  Photo: Brent Okita
  • Fixed Lines on Mt. McKinley - RMI Photo Collection
  • 11,000 Camp Mt. McKinley - RMI Photo Collection
  • The McKinley May 21, 2013, Expedition after breakfast in Talkeetna. Photo: Brent Okita
  • Meeting of Friends in Talkeetna. Photo: Brent Okita
  • The Talkeetna Airstrip from the plane. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Windy Corner - RMI Photo Collection
  • Cache at Windy Corner - RMI Photo Collection
  • 11,000' Camp Mt. McKinley - RMI Photo Collection
  • The View at 11,000' Camp - RMI Photo Colleciton
  • Climbing towards Windy Corner. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Looking through Camp Walls at 14,200' Camp. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Pulling sleds up Ski Hill. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Looking up from 11K Camp, Mt. McKinley. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Basecamp on the Kahiltna Glacier, Alaska.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • Climbing Teams Leaving Basecamp. Photo: Chris Villar
  • The May 14, 3013, McKinley Team Ready for Takeoff. Photo: Billy Nugent
  • Moon over the Kahiltna Glacier. Photo: Katy Reid
  • K2 plane waiting for good flying weather. Photo: Billy Nugent
  • Hangar training with RMI Guide Levi Kepsel. Photo: Billy Nugent
  • An RMI camp during an Alaska storm. Photo: RMI Collection
  • The May 14th McKinley Expedition Team. Photo: Billy Nugent
  • The team practicing with fixed rope in the Talkeetna hangar. Photo: Billy Nugent
  • All the team's gear is organized and ready to go. Photo: Billy Nugent
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