Posts for Mount Rainier

Mt. Rainier: Winter Seminar Wrap-up a Great Week of Training

Posted by: Brent Okita, Zeb Blais, Ben Liken, Robby Young | April 18, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,060'

RMI Guides Brent Okita, Zeb Blais and the Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter Team finished up a great week of training.  The team has started their descent and will be back at Rainier Basecamp this afternoon.

Congratulations Team!

Last rest break on the mountain. Photo: Brent Okita Group photo near Paradise. Photo: Brent Okita

Mt. Rainier: Winter Seminar Train in Some Tough Weather

Posted by: Brent Okita, Zeb Blais, Ben Liken, Robby Young | April 17, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,060'

A little wind and snow couldn’t keep this intrepid group of aspiring alpinists from training on our last full day of the seminar. What most impressed the guides was the 100% participation of the group given the 50 mph winds and heavy snowfall.

We look forward to a last evening together going over a couple more topics and sharing a war story or two.

RMI Guide Brent Okita

The winter seminar training in tough conditions at Camp Muir. Photo: Brent Okita
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Hot meal and warm, cozy bed awaits…so proud of you!!

Jk

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Posted by: JK on 4/17/2014 at 9:39 pm


Mt. Rainier: The Winter Seminar Tries for the Summit

Posted by: Brent Okita, Zeb Blais, Ben Liken, Robby Young | April 16, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,060'

We left Camp Muir this morning at 4: There was a cap over the summit from the outset of our climb but we were thankful the winds from yesterday evening had abated and hoped the cap would follow suit.45 a.m. in reasonable winds.  The team took to heart the lessons learned at yesterday’s climbing school and climbed strong on the upper mountain in deteriorating conditions.
 
I began the route finding effort up the Ingraham Direct but gave way to RMI Guide Zeb Blais as he led the team up to a break at 12,800’.  As we switchbacked our way up the mountain, we encountered increasing wind speeds and steadily decreasing visibility.  We made the smart and safe choice to call 13,400’ our high point for the day.  On our descent to Camp Muir, clouds would billow up from below causing white out conditions followed by periods of visibility.  This process repeated continually until we returned to Camp Muir.

We’re back at Camp Muir safe and sound.  We are looking forward to a low-key afternoon at camp with a siesta and some easy training on the schedule.

Signing off for now,
RMI Guide Brent Okita

The Mt. Rainier winter seminar's high point today. Photo: Robby Young Winter seminar training with avalanche transceivers. Photo: Brent Okita The winter seminar traversing the Cowlitz Glacier. Photo: Brent Okita
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Zeb led the way for Mariana and I out of Camp Muir on June 20, 2010.  He got us up to Ingraham Glacier before returning with climbers.  Mariana and I… read more

Posted by: Josephine Johnson on 4/17/2014 at 8:58 pm

Thanks for keeping my guys safe and sound!  Think warm thoughts!  Hugs to Mike and Steve

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Posted by: cathy on 4/16/2014 at 6:59 pm


Mt. Rainier: RMI Guide Brent Okita Checks In as the Seminar Ascends to Camp Muir

Posted by: Brent Okita, Zeb Blais, Ben Liken, Robby Young | April 15, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,060'

We had a great day for making our way to Camp Muir yesterday. Blue skies and just enough wind to keep us from over heating. Everyone did well! 

Camp Muir will be home through Friday.  The next few days we’ll be training around Camp Muir.  It’s going to be a fantastic week!

RMI Guide Brent Okita

Taking a break on our way up the Muir Snowfield. Photo: Brent Okita Mt. Rainier seminar ascending to Camp Muir. Photo: Brent Okita Beautiful vast views on Mt. Rainier seminar. Photo: Brent Okita
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Thank you for the update.  Great job, y’all!  Just getting to Camp Muir is an accomplishment in and of itself, not to mention while carrying all that weight!! But every… read more

Posted by: JK on 4/15/2014 at 6:39 pm


Mt. Rainier: Intro to Ski Mountaineering is Underway

Posted by: Solveig Waterfall, Bryan Hendrick | March 31, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 6200'

Hello from 6200’!

We spent the day in Ashford yesterday organizing gear and getting our ski kits dialed in.

The road to Paradise was delayed in opening due to the 13” of new snow overnight!

We kept ourselves busy this morning tour planning and exercising our map and compass skills, while enjoying coffee and patiently waiting for the plows to finish their job.
The late arrival was worth it, and we made good time to our campsite here in the Upper slopes of the Paradise Valley.  After building a bomber camp we went out for a cocktail hour ski back down the valley a few hundred feet.

We are all cozy here in camp and looking forward to clear skies and more training tomorrow!

Cheers,

RMI Guides Solveig Waterfall, Bryan Hendrick, and the team!

Route Planning. Photo: Bryan Hendrick Ski Camp. Photo: Bryan Hendrick Paradise Valley. Photo: Bryan Hendrick The Dining tent. Photo: Bryan Hendrick
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Great photos, Solveig. Looks like great fun: Maybe even for our age group. The snow season is about over here.
Cheers, Joe

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Posted by: joe Griffith on 4/1/2014 at 6:06 am


Mt. Rainier: RMI Guide Elias de Andres Recaps Winter Seminar & Successful Summit

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Adam Knoff, Leah Fisher, Nick Hunt | March 18, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

Last week was RMI’s March Expedition Skills Seminar-Winter. Like every month from January to April, a team of intrepid climbers looking to learn the beauty of winter mountaineering, ventured up the slopes of Mt. Rainier on this, our classic six-day winter program. Guides Adam Knoff, Leah Fisher, Nick Hunt and myself, Elías de Andrés, enjoyed the company of a dozen folks, who initally were welcomed by a characteristic March day; rain in town, snow and wind up high. Our orientation day in Ashford would include a thorough evaluation of the forecast, a task that is, regardless, part of this program’s curriculum. But in this case, with a close look at a promising improving trend which would keep us excited for the remaining of the day.

The next morning, with packs ready and boots laced up, we headed into the park not without a delay due to the National Park’s snow plows hard work to keep the road to Paradise open to individuals like us. Upon arriving to Paradise we rigged our equipment for the hike to what would be our first camp. Atop Marmot Hill, we built a fortified settlement “Denali style” for the evening. A “posh house” tent was erected to socialize at dinner time, just like on any expedition, really. It was a new sight for many in the group, which by now were enjoying expedition life barely 500ft above the parking lot.

Our hike to Muir started as we waved good bye to a weatherfront that had wiped western Washington for a few days, but not without great team effort breaking trail for most of the remaining 4,000 vertical feet to Camp Muir. Enjoying the clearest skies possible, our climbers who’d arrived from all parts of the country could make out in the horizon the central Oregon volcanoes of Mt. Hood and Jefferson without even squinting. To the north, some avalanches, along with ice and rock fall from the Nisqually Ice Cliff, reminded us of the interactions between the new loaded glaciers the spring-like sun of this day. The next 36 hours would continue to add to the tool kit the climbers were building for future expeditions and also, in order to face, of course, a potential climb the following day as the high pressure system was supposed to last for at least three days. Muir Peak, the AAA Gully, the Cowlitz Glacier… all provided, in the vicinity of Camp Muir, a perfect training ground.

In the morning of Thursday, March 13th, we woke up to yet another incredible day; clear skies had been swiped of clouds by the same winds that windblasted some of the upper slopes… as well as loaded others. Careful evaluation by the guides on the go, determined a safe, wind-scoured route up the west side of the Ingraham Glacier, a seldom traveled route almost hugging Gibraltar Rock on its east side. Once at Camp Comfort, trail breaking efforts would begin again, and as the team team held it together, we were getting closer to the top in sometimes mid-calf deep snow on the now, more lower angled sections of the climb.

After 6 hours and 50 minutes of ascent, the team reached the crater rim to the now strengthening winds. But a new winter summit had been attained by another successful RMI Winter Skills Seminar team. Our careful preparation to detail, our philosophy in approaching the mountain, the guidance of the leaders and the great application of the skills learned by the climbers allowed the feat… the RMI way!

The next day, in a deja vu of what winter is truly like, we woke up to one-foot tall spindrifts and gusts of over 70mph at Camp Muir. Most of the guides, including myself, couldn’t remember such conditions on the snowfield. Far away from feeling accomplished by the previous day’s achievement, successfully navigating down to Paradise in such white-out conditions demanded now serious skill and perseverance. A team of now well-trained climbers, learned their last lesson of this winter seminar; the summit is only back at the car. Three hours later we’d bypass the remains of our camp on day 1, and as the winds decreased at 6,000ft and visibility came back to reasonable, we reached the Paradise parking lot. Celebratory drinks and a dinner over future climbing plans with the climbers was the perfect closure to a week on the frigid, yet amazing environment of winter on Mt. Rainier.

Come play, climb and learn with RMI! Satisfaction guaranteed.

Elías de Andrés
RMI Senior Guide

Winter seminar's first camp at Marmot Hill. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos RMI Winter Seminar ascending the upper slopes of Mt. Rainier. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos March 2014 Winter Seminar team walking into the Mt. Rainier crater. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos March 13, 2014 -Winter Seminar summit team pose under bluebird skies in Mt. Rainier's crater. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos
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Elias, Adam, Nick, Leah;

Thanks again for all your hard work on this trip - you all handled things very professionally, and I for one learned quite a bit.  Both… read more

Posted by: Eric on 3/19/2014 at 8:57 am


Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar Reaches the SUMMIT!

Posted by: Casey Grom, Elias de Andres Martos | September 27, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

The last Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir Team of our 2013 Rainier climbing season reached the Summit of Mt. Rainier at about 2:00pm yesterday.  RMI Guides Casey Grom and Elias deAndres Martos reported a blue bird day with cold temperatures and fresh snow on the route.  The team will spend the morning at Camp Muir finishing up their mountaineering skills training before heading back to RMI Basecamp this afternoon.

Congratulations Team!

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Fatima, Casey….just awesome. I wish I was there!!

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Posted by: Debbi on 9/28/2013 at 4:39 am

Congratulations Tim!  That’s one checked off the Bucket List.  Keep goin’!

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Posted by: Le on 9/27/2013 at 9:14 am


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Turns Below Camp Muir

Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Leon Davis | September 22, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 8,000'

The Four Day Summit Climb Teams led by RMI Guides Leon Davis and Geoff Schellens were forced to turn around at 8,000’ today en route to Camp Muir.  The teams experienced wet and windy weather with low visibility.  They made the tough decision to descend and return to Paradise.  The teams arrived at Rainier BaseCamp just before 3 pm PT.


Mt. Rainier: Four & Five Day Climbs Turned Around

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Zeb Blais | September 22, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 12,300'

The Four Day Summit Climb September 19 - 22 led by RMI Guide Billy Nugent & the Five Day Summit Climb September 18 - 22 led by Zeb Blais were unable to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning.  The teams left Camp Muir en route to the summit but were forced to turn around at the top of Disappointment Cleaver (12,300’) due to a cloud cap that was descending.  The cloud cap brought limited visibility and increased winds.  The teams returned to Camp Muir to rest and dry out.  They began their descent from Camp Muir a little after 8 am en route for Paradise.

We look forward to seeing the groups at Rainier BaseCamp later this morning.

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Glad you guys are safe. (Following Lissa and Joanna but glad for all of you.) You guys are a success for trying and going so far, and being willing and… read more

Posted by: dawn n. on 9/23/2013 at 4:05 pm

Having made it to the top of the Cleaver with the team…  It was awesome. Rainier made it pretty clear it was in no mood to let anyone summit on… read more

Posted by: Wytold on 9/23/2013 at 6:56 am


Mt. Rainier: September 21st Summit!

Posted by: Seth Waterfall, Solveig Waterfall | September 21, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

The Mt. Rainier Summit Climb led by Seth and Solveig Waterfall reached the summit at 7:00 this morning.  The guides reported clear and cold weather conditions. After spending some time on the summit, the team began their descent at 7:45 a.m.  We look forward to congratulating them back in Ashford at Rainier Basecamp this afternoon!

Views over Mt. Rainier's crater. Photo: Seth Waterfall
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Fantastic lead! I had a great time and was so glad we had a window to summit.
A truly professional team with the Waterfalls, Andy And Nick. Thanks… read more

Posted by: Scott Anderson on 10/1/2013 at 7:06 pm

The 2 best guides at RMI working together

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Posted by: Tom on 9/22/2013 at 3:29 am


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Recent Images From Mount Rainier

  • Last rest break on the mountain. Photo: Brent Okita
  • Group photo near Paradise. Photo: Brent Okita
  • The winter seminar training in tough conditions at Camp Muir. Photo: Brent Okita
  • The Mt. Rainier winter seminar's high point today. Photo: Robby Young
  • Winter seminar training with avalanche transceivers. Photo: Brent Okita
  • The winter seminar traversing the Cowlitz Glacier. Photo: Brent Okita
  • Taking a break on our way up the Muir Snowfield. Photo: Brent Okita
  • Mt. Rainier seminar ascending to Camp Muir. Photo: Brent Okita
  • Beautiful vast views on Mt. Rainier seminar. Photo: Brent Okita
  • Route Planning. Photo: Bryan Hendrick
  • Ski Camp. Photo: Bryan Hendrick
  • Paradise Valley. Photo: Bryan Hendrick
  • The Dining tent. Photo: Bryan Hendrick
  • Winter seminar's first camp at Marmot Hill. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos
  • RMI Winter Seminar ascending the upper slopes of Mt. Rainier. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos
  • March 2014 Winter Seminar team walking into the Mt. Rainier crater. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos
  • March 13, 2014 -Winter Seminar summit team pose under bluebird skies in Mt. Rainier's crater. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos
  • Views over Mt. Rainier's crater. Photo: Seth Waterfall
  • The Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir on the summit of Mt. Rainier.  Photo: Brent Okita
  • The sunrise as the climbers ascend Mt. Rainier on September 19th.  Photo: Brent Okita
  • RMI Climbers taking a rest break after reaching the summit of Mt. Rainier.  Photo: Brent Okita
  • RMI Climbers on the crater rim of Mt. Rainier.  Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Crater Rim at Sunrise - Photo: Bryan Hendrick
  • 9/12/13 - Ladder on the Disappointment Cleaver Route. Photo: Katrina Bloemsma
  • RMI Guide Mike King gives instruction on running belays during the Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir, Mt. Rainier.  Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • View of Mt. Rainier as seen from Paradise.  Photo: Mt. Rainier Web Cam
  • Little Tahoma as seen from Muir Ridge.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • 9/7/13- Summit climbers all smiles on the mountain this morning. Photo: JJ Justman
  • Four Day Summit Climb at sunrise. Photo: JJ Justman
  • Summit climb led by JJ Justman on the descent. Photo: JJ Justman
  • 9/6/13 - Summit teams at Camp Muir. Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • The lower slopes of Mt. Rainier, September 5, 2013.  Photo: JJ Justman
  • RMI Guide JJ Justman and team hike above Paradise to a training area for Climbing School.  Photo: JJ Justman
  • September 4, 2013 - Mt. Rainier as seen from Paradise.  Photo: Mt. Rainier Webcam
  • The ascending climb gets briefed by RMI Guide Andy Hildebrand before the final stretch to Camp Muir on September 2.  Photo: Katrina Bloemsma
  • The teams descending to Ingraham Flats due to low visibility and high winds at 12,700'. Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • An RMI Team ascending through Cathedral Gap.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • The Cowlitz Glacier looking towards Cathedral Gap with Little Tahoma to the right.  Photo: RMI Collection