Posts for Expedition Dispatches

Alaska Expedition Seminar: Marin & Team Holding Strong at Basecamp

Posted by: Andres Marin, Garrett Stevens, Katie Bono | May 18, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 7,300'

It is fascinating how much the weather can test us.  One more day of a strong storm kept us in camp, but we find things to do to keep ourselves busy.

Here is how the day went for us:
Woke up with about a foot of new snow, had to do some maintenance in camp before any items got buried.  Then time to eat breakfast.  Lisa, Kahiltna Basecamp Manager, rallied everybody in basecamp to stomp the runway, then we did a class in avalanche decision making and transceiver and probing work.  After dinner, Akira finished snow blocks to make an arch that marks the entrance of our bathroom.  Impressive work!!!  Now it is time for us to go sleep.

The strong front that is passing should start weakening tomorrow.  High hopes for that.

We all are staying happy and learning from the mountain.

Living the dream!!!!

RMI Guide Andres Marin

An RMI camp during an Alaska storm. Photo: RMI Collection

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Mt. Everest: Dave Hahn Calls in from Camp 1

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall, Mark Tucker | May 18, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 20,000'

Update 6:30 a.m. PST
Hey, this is Dave Hahn calling from Camp 1 with Seth Waterfall and Dan Johnson. We finally got out of Basecamp. We’re on our way down for our summit bid. A beautiful day today for the start of it at least. And then about the time we were about mid morning or so when we were getting up here to Camp 1, the wind clouds and cloud caps started forming over the high peaks. Made us a little bit worried for our friends who were going to the summit today but sounds like things went well for the folks we know up there. And we know a number of people that left for the summit today so that is encouraging. In fact, with some of the cloud play up there, we were able to actually see people on top which I don’t remember being able to do from Camp 1 before so that was pretty exciting. And neat to go through the Icefall again, actually very frightening to go through the Icefall again, but neat to work our muscles and get up here close to 20,000’ again. Lam Babu and Yubaraj are up at Camp 2 tonight. And they’re getting Camp 2 ready for our arrival tomorrow. That’s our hope is to get up early in the morning tomorrow and move what should be a relatively easy day up to Camp 2. But like I say nice to be up here. We’ve been talking to Mark Tucker down at Basecamp. Sounds like all is going well and the forecast is still looking good for when we want to get close to the top in four days or five days, something like that. And so keep following along. And hopefully we’ll keep making upward progress. Bye for now.

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Dave Hahn leaving BC for Everest summit. Photo: Mark Tucker Dan & Dave posing for a photo before Everest summit bid. Photo: Mark Tucker


Dave Hahn calls in from Everest Camp 1.

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Mt. Everest: The Team Begins Their Summit Bid!

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall, Mark Tucker | May 18, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 17,575'

Update sent 4:59 a.m. PST
Off we go!  Seth the Sherpa man left Everest Basecamp early with Lam Babu to retrieve gear from Camp 2 and bring down to Camp 1. They met up with Dave and Dan then Lam Babu went back to Camp 2 for the night. The team decided to make use of Camp 1 on this rotation for ease of travel.  A good number of climbers summited today under nice conditions most of the time. Three remaining Sherpa here at Basecamp will go up to Camp 1 tomorrow and bring all equipment down to Basecamp except rescue and medical.  Getting a head start on clearing the mountain. 

Forecast is still looking good.  Dave and crew report all is well at a very quiet Camp 1.

RMI Everest Basecamp Manager Mark Tucker

Beautiful morning at Everest BC for summit bid start. Photo: Mark Tucker Seth ready to go at Basecamp. Photo: Mark Tucker Dave checks Dan's harness before leaving Basecamp. Photo: Mark Tucker

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Mt. McKinley: Waiting Game Continues at 11,000’

Posted by: Mike Walter, Solveig Waterfall, Ben Liken | May 17, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

Another day goes by and we are still here at the 11k Camp. The winds have died down for the most part, but it is snowing and visibility is nearly zero. We’re still doing well, tent bound mostly. Hopefully the storm passes soon and we can move camp up higher.

Cheers,
RMI Guide Mike Walter

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Mt. Everest: The Team is Ready to Start Their Summit Bid!

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall, Mark Tucker | May 17, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 17,575'

Bags are packed and the Everest team is ready!  We have been busy with last minute sewing and labeling of food and gear for each camp.  Checked re-checked.  All systems are go.  Weather has been a bit tough right now, but the forecast is good for the planned summit day.  A couple of showers to help with soon to be shared tents.  All good. 

Sad to report the Khumbu Country Club golf course is now closed for the season.  The fairways are a bit to hollow and wet.  We still have our horseshoe pit in great shape, and guess who had a double ringer to end the game today?

Up early tomorrow, let the summit bid begin!

RMI Guide and Everest Basecamp Manager Mark Tucker

RMI Guide Seth Waterfall at the Basecamp horseshoe pit. Photo: Mark Tucker

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Mt. McKinley: Billy Nugent & Team Waiting Out the Storm in Talkeetna

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Kel Rossiter, Levi Kepsel | May 17, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 346'

Update 10:34 am PST
Billy called from Talkeetna to give us an update:  It is snowing in Talkeetna and the team will not be flying today.

Update from 5/16/13 at 11:00 pm PST
Checking in from a rainy Talkeetna… We woke up early this morning and headed over to the hangar after a quick breakfast at the Roadhouse hoping to finish up our last odds and ends and fly on to the glacier. While we were weighing the last of our luggage for the flight, the K2 staff told us the bad news: snowing at basecamp, flat light, and a low cloud ceiling. Translation: no go for us. So we hung out most of the day today eating food and worrying about what we forgot to pack while the rain gradually built up all day. Unfortunately, it’s not looking good for tomorrow either so we may have to organize a pingpong tournament in the hangar. Despite the crummy weather the team is in good spirits and looking forward to our big adventure. We’ll check in tomorrow, hopefully from Kahiltna Basecamp.

All for now,
RMI Guide Billy Nugent

The May 14th McKinley Expedition Team. Photo: Billy Nugent The team practicing with fixed rope in the Talkeetna hangar. Photo: Billy Nugent All the team's gear is organized and ready to go. Photo: Billy Nugent

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Mt. Rainier: May 17th Update

Posted by: Casey Grom, Tyler Reid, Adam Knoff | May 17, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 13,300'

Casey Grom and the Five Day Mt. Rainier Summit Climb called in early this morning.  Due to low visibility the team made the decision to turn at 13,300’. The team is en-route to Camp Muir, and expected back at Basecamp this afternoon.

Tyler Reid and Adam Knoff are heading up to Camp Muir to start their Five and Four Day Summit Climbs respectively.

The Five Day Muir Summit Climb ascending Mt. Rainier. Photo: Casey Grom 5/17/13- The Five Day Muir Summit Climb team on the summit. Photo: Casey Grom Camp Muir in a snow storm. Photo: Win Whittaker

Alaska Expedition Seminar: Marin & Team Train Close to Camp

Posted by: Andres Marin, Garrett Stevens, Katie Bono | May 17, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 7,300'

As in all expeditions weather always play a big part.  Today we experienced a pretty big storm that will be on the radar for the next three days.  The forecast is calling for 4 feet of total snow fall with winds up to 40 mph.

We spent the day learning basic knots and learning to take care of camp during a storm.  The weather was a big part of today’s lesson.  It has snowed about a foot and is still snowing as I’m sending this dispatch.

We all are staying busy and dry and doing well.  We’ll see what happens over night.  Will keep you posted.

RMI Guide Andres Marin

 

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Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Wait Out a Storm at 11K Camp

Posted by: Mike Walter, Solveig Waterfall, Ben Liken | May 16, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

Our team is hunkered down at the 11,000’ camp still, as the weather has progressed to become a pretty significant storm. Snow is falling and winds are howling as we sit tent bound for the majority of the day. Save for breakfast and dinner, and some quick forays to the bathroom, there is really no reason to leave the relative comfort of our tents today.

We’re all doing well, albeit a bit eager to go climbing. Hopefully the weather breaks soon so we can get up the the 14k camp.

That’s all the news from this end…

RMI Guide Mike Walter

Camp at 11,000' on Mt. McKinley. Photo: RMI Collection An RMI team at 11,000' on Mt. McKinley. Photo: RMI Collection

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Mt. Rainier: Grom & Team Check Out Cathedral Gap

Posted by: Casey Grom | May 16, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,000'

Casey Grom checked in after the team climbed up to Cathedral Gap on their rest day of the Five Day Summit Climb.  The weather was beautiful!  The team was preparing for their summit bid in the morning.  Check out the photos Casey sent after returning to Camp Muir.

The Summit Climb ascending to Cathedral Gap. Photo: Casey Grom Top of Cathedral Gap on Mt. Rainier. Photo: Casey Grom

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Recent Images From Expedition Dispatches

  • Lhotse Face at sunset from Camp 2. Photo: RMI Collection
  • The Summit Climb ascending to Camp Muir. Photo: JJ Justman
  • Lou Whittaker posing with the ESS - Muir team. Photo: Casey Grom
  • The ESS - Muir crew testing their boots on the Basecamp trail. Photo: Casey Grom
  • ESS-Muir Gear Check at Rainier Basecamp. Photo: Casey Grom
  • Climbing Teams Leaving Basecamp. Photo: Chris Villar
  • The May 14, 3013, McKinley Team Ready for Takeoff. Photo: Billy Nugent
  • Moon over the Kahiltna Glacier. Photo: Katy Reid
  • Climber at Sunrise on Mt. Rainier. Photo: RMI Collection
  • K2 plane waiting for good flying weather. Photo: Billy Nugent
  • Hangar training with RMI Guide Levi Kepsel. Photo: Billy Nugent
  • An RMI camp during an Alaska storm. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Dave Hahn leaving BC for Everest summit. Photo: Mark Tucker
  • Dan & Dave posing for a photo before Everest summit bid. Photo: Mark Tucker
  • Beautiful morning at Everest BC for summit bid start. Photo: Mark Tucker
  • Seth ready to go at Basecamp. Photo: Mark Tucker
  • Dave checks Dan's harness before leaving Basecamp. Photo: Mark Tucker
  • RMI Guide Seth Waterfall at the Basecamp horseshoe pit. Photo: Mark Tucker
  • The May 14th McKinley Expedition Team. Photo: Billy Nugent
  • The team practicing with fixed rope in the Talkeetna hangar. Photo: Billy Nugent
  • All the team's gear is organized and ready to go. Photo: Billy Nugent
  • The Five Day Muir Summit Climb ascending Mt. Rainier. Photo: Casey Grom
  • 5/17/13- The Five Day Muir Summit Climb team on the summit. Photo: Casey Grom
  • Camp Muir in a snow storm. Photo: Win Whittaker
  • Camp at 11,000' on Mt. McKinley. Photo: RMI Collection
  • An RMI team at 11,000' on Mt. McKinley. Photo: RMI Collection
  • The Summit Climb ascending to Cathedral Gap. Photo: Casey Grom
  • Top of Cathedral Gap on Mt. Rainier. Photo: Casey Grom
  • Views of Everest Basecamp and the Khumbu Icefall. Photo: Casey Grom
  • 11K Camp in Storm Conditions. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Views around Kahiltna Basecamp, Alaska. Photo: Billy Nugent
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