Posts for Expedition Dispatches

Mt. Rainier: Four & Five Day Summit Climbs Reach Summit

Posted by: Eric Frank, Brent Okita | August 12, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Teams reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning.  RMI Guide Brent Okita led the Four Day Summit Climb and Eric Frank led the Five Day Summit Climb team.  The teams began their descent from the crater rim at 7 am and reported light winds and a bit of a cloud cap.  The teams will return to Camp Muir and then continue down to Paradise.  We look forward to seeing them back at Rainier BaseCamp later today.

Congratulations to today’s Summit Climb Teams!

An RMI Team descending from the summit of Mt.Rainier in early August.  Photo: Mike Walter
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Mt. Kilimanjaro: Tucker & Team Reach the Summit!

Posted by: Mark Tucker | August 12, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Kilimanjaro
Elevation: 19,340'

Jambo! Jambo!  Mark Tucker calling you from the Roof of Africa. With incredible timing we stood on top the moment the sun rose. We had the top pretty much to ourselves.  And I’ve got everybody here with me and couldn’t ditch them.  We’re all standing up here on the summit of Kilimanjaro and everybody is doing great. We are finishing up with the photos.  It’s a little bit chilly a little bit breezy but we are all nice and comfy based upon our precision like accuracy with our clothing. All is well and I’ll check in back at low camp.  You can rest easy, everybody is looking strong, everybody is tight and together, a great climbing team. So we’re all doing well. I’ll check in later.

RMI Guide Mark Tucker

Climbers ready at Barafu Camp to make their summit attempt on Kilimanjaro.  Photo: Linden Mallory Watching the sunrise over Tanzania from the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro.  Photo: RMI Collection


RMI Guide Mark Tucker checks in from the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro

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7

Mt. Elbrus: North Side Teams Moves to Camp 2

Posted by: | August 11, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Elbrus Northside
Elevation: 15,200'

Hello from Camp 2 on Mt. Elbrus,
Our plan for today was to wake up early to get a head start and try to get to Camp 2 before the potential afternoon weather moved in. Well, this morning was not like the last three mornings. It was snowing pretty hard at camp, so we once again had a weather delay. This time though, our delay worked. By 9:30 the snow had stopped and most of the clouds had dissipated and we could actually see the twin summits. We were walking shortly after and made it to camp with beautiful weather. The clouds that did remain worked with the sun to create a perfect solar oven. The walk up was very hot and there was literally no escaping the heat until we reached camp.
We set up camp in the lower Lenz Rocks, 3000’ above Camp 1. Fortunately, the weather cooperated while we established a camp that was ready for the windy reputation of Lenz Rocks.
If the weather continues to improve, tomorrow should be our summit day. We are all packed and the team is strong, healthy, and ready for our attempt.
We are now tucked into our tents just as the sun is setting over the western flanks of the mountain. The views just get better and better.

RMI Guides Jeff Martin and Pete Van Deventer and the Northside Team

An RMI Team approaching Lenz Rock 15,200 ft, high camp, on Mt. Elbrus, Russia.  Photo: RMI Collection

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6

Mt. Rainier: August 11th SUMMIT!

Posted by: JJ Justman, Alex Barber, Christina von Mertens | August 11, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guide JJ Justman led the Four Day Summit Climb Team to the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning.  The team reported beautiful weather and great route conditions.  The team was climbing to raise money for Washington’s National Park Fund, what a great way to honor our National Parks.

Congratulations Team!

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Mt. Kilimanjaro: Tucker & Team Check in from High Camp, Ready for Summit Attempt!

Posted by: Mark Tucker | August 11, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Kilimanjaro
Elevation: 15,000'

We had a nice relaxed departure from Karanga camp this morning. After just a few short hours on the trail we found our selves at our high camp on Mt. Kilimanjaro, Barafu Camp.  We are moving well today and the same steady tight team pulled into camp. We already emptied our packs and adjusted the load to ready for our summit attempt tonight.
We have our food packed for the summit and enjoyed a hot lunch at camp.  We are relaxing this afternoon and taking a rest before an early dinner.  After dinner we will try to get a few hours of sleep before our midnight wake up call and game on! The weather continues to stay nice, just a few low clouds now and again but no complaints here. The local support staff has yet to miss a beat and we really appreciate the help. Go team Go. Will try and call you from the top.

RMI Guide Mark Tucker

The trail on Mt. Kilimanjaro en route to high camp at Barafu, 15,000 ft.  Photo: Jeff Martin

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8

Mt. Elbrus: Northside Team Takes a Weather Day

Posted by: Jeff Martin, Pete Van Deventer | August 10, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Elbrus Northside
Elevation: 12,800'

Greetings once again from Camp 1. We woke up this morning to a bit of a mixed bag, with a large cloud cap spinning up high, but clear, sunny skies over camp. After dragging our feet over breakfast and watching the clouds, it seemed that things were moving in the right direction and dissipating. Once we decided the move was a go, the team did a fantastic job of crashing camp and getting packed for the move. Just as fast if not faster however, was the change in the weather trend. The clouds that had been dissipating rebuilt ever stronger, and we began to rethink our decision. After some more staring at the clouds, scuffing of feet, and sighing, we decided the prudent decision was to reset camp and take a rest day.  Prudent that decision turned out to be: not long after the tents were back up, our wintry mix began to fall again, and within an hour or two, a repeat of our thunder and lightning storm from yesterday.

With a lot of tent time today, and weather persisting this evening, we decided to treat ourselves to a delicious pasta dinner cooked by the camp cook, Olga. It was a nice break from the tents to share a meal, stories, and jokes around a table with a roof over our heads. With full bellies, we are retiring, with hopes that we wake up to a better scene tomorrow, and can continue our upward progress.

RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Jeff Martin, and team

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6

Mt. Kilimanjaro: Tucker and Team at Karanga Camp

Posted by: Mark Tucker | August 10, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Kilimanjaro
Elevation: 13,160'

Come on baby! A couple more nice weather days for us and it can storm all it wants up here in the high country of Tanzania. It all boils down to needing a bit of luck when climbing big peaks like Kilimanjaro; when the mountain says no you need to listen. Even on climbs when you do not get to the top of are filled with events and memories that stick with you. I have great confidence that this entire team will stand on the roof of Africa, with safety leading the way. It is such a unique thing we do up high, to be allowed to stand on the summit is really icing on the cake. We take away an immense feeling of satisfaction on all climbs. The team has checked off all the prerequisite to get this done.

When we leave Karanga Camp tomorrow morning, our summit push begins. We’ll take a bit of a break at Barafu, the high camp, then up up and away! Man, this is exciting. All the prep work that has gone into this, the great support by all involved back home, is all making this last bunch of hours a reality. We promise to make you proud of what we do, impressed on how we did it, and thank for this beautiful mountain in supplying us this adventure. All is well at 13,000’ on Kilimanjaro.  We will check in with you tomorrow!

RMI Guide Mark Tucker

Tents at Karanga Camp on Kilimanjaro, Tanzania. Photo: RMI Collection

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9

Mt. Rainier: August 10th Teams Summit

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Lindsay Fixmer | August 10, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guides Billy Nugent and Lindsay Fixmer, along with the Four Day Summit Climb, reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning.  Billy reported calm and beautiful conditions on the summit.  The teams are descending to Camp Muir where they will spend some time before continuing on to Paradise.  We look forward to seeing them back in Ashford this afternoon.

Congratulations!

RMI climbers crossing Mt. Rainier's summit crater to Columbia Crest. Photo: Brent Okita
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Forbidden Peak: Walter Reflects on Great Climbs

Posted by: Mike Walter | August 09, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *North Cascades

We just wrapped up our 5 day North Cascades Custom Climb in Boston Basin. Dan, Augie, and I took advantage of the excellent weather to get some serious climbing done on Sharkfin Tower, Sahale Mountain, and the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak. Special thanks to Dan and Augie for coming out to the Pacific Northwest to push their comfort zone with real alpine adventures and wild terrain. Let’s do it again next year!

RMI Guide Mike Walter

RMI Climbers ascending Forbidden Peak in the North Cascades, WA. Photo: Mike Walter An RMI Climber looking down from from Forbidden Peak in the North Cascades, WA. Photo: Mike Walter

Fisher Chimneys: Beren and Team Summit

Posted by: Jake Beren, Nick Hunt, Ben Liken | August 09, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *North Cascades
Elevation: 9,127'

In the North Cascades of Washington, RMI Guide Jake Beren and team reached the summit of Mt. Shuksan via the Fisher Chimneys this morning.  The team is back at high camp for the night and has been enjoying sunny, warm, and perfect weather.

Congratulations Climbers!

Mt. Baker as seen from high camp on Mt. Shuksan in the North Cascades, WA. Photo: RMI Collection
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Recent Images From Expedition Dispatches

  • Team Waterfall stop for a photo on their way to Shira Plateau. Photo: Seth Waterfall
  • Shira Plateau, Kilimanjaro. Photo: Seth Waterfall
  • RMI Guide Zach Lovell and team ascending Mount Rainier just after daybreak. Photo: JJ Justman
  • Kilimanjaro Trailhead. Photo: RMI Collection
  • The team starting their trek to Machame Camp. Photo: Seth Waterfall
  • Our first night's camp located at 10,000' in the Giant Heather of Kilimanjaro. Photo: Jeff Martin
  • RMI climbers on the approach to the Mt. Rainier summit. Photo: Seth Waterfall
  • RMI Kilimanjaro Team dining at the Dik Dik Hotel.  Photo: Seth Waterfall
  • An RMI team ascending to the Mt. Rainier summit. Photo: Win Whittaker
  • Kikoti Camp, Africa safari. Photo: Jeff Martin
  • Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood, St. Petersburg, Russia. Photo: Jeff Martin
  • Intricate mosaics inside the Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood. Photo: Jeff Martin
  • St. Isaac's Cathedral, St. Petersburg, Russia. Photo: Jeff Martin
  • An RMI team on the upper section of Mount Rainier. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Roof top view of St. Petersburg, Russia.  Photo: Linden Mallory
  • An RMI team visits a Maasai Village during safari. Photo: Jeff Martin
  • The Four Day Summit Climb August 12 - 15 led by JJ Justman ascends to Camp Muir on August 14th, Mt. Rainier, Washington.  Photo: JJ Justman
  • Four Day Summit Climb August 12 - 15, 2014 on the upper slopes of Mt. Rainier.  Photo: JJ Justman
  • A giraffe seen on safari at Lake Manyara National Park, Tanzania. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Elephant at Lake Manyara National Park, Tanzania. Photo: Seth Waterfall
  • A garden in  Kislovodsk, Russia, creatively states the year. Photo: Jeff Martin
  • The Elbrus Northside team shopping in the Kislovodsk city park. Photo: Jeff Martin
  • The Elbrus Northside team enjoys the best meal of the trip so far in Kislovodsk, Russia. Photo: Jeff Martin
  • RMI Team on the Summit of Kilimanjaro. Photo: Mark Tucker
  • Looking toward the West Summit of Mt. Elbrus from Lenz Rocks.  Photo: Pete Van Deventer
  • The views of  Russias Caucasus Mountains as seen on approach to the summit of Mt. Elbrus.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • Climbers en route to the summit of Mt. Elbrus via the North Side Route.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • Hiking out of Mweka Camp on Mt. Kilimanjaro. RMI Photo Collection
  • An RMI Team descending from the summit of Mt.Rainier in early August.  Photo: Mike Walter
  • Climbers ready at Barafu Camp to make their summit attempt on Kilimanjaro.  Photo: Linden Mallory
  • Watching the sunrise over Tanzania from the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro.  Photo: RMI Collection