Posts for North Cascades

Mt. Shuksan: Geoff and Team Spend the Day Training

Posted by: Geoff Schellens | September 06, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *North Cascades

Hi all,
Today is our last day on Shuksan before we hike out tomorrow.  We spent the morning relaxing getting in and out of our tents as the rain storms were sporadic.  By early afternoon it seemed stable enough and we did some training.  First we practiced knots and hitches, then we moved on to building snow anchors, and wrapped up with some crevasse rescue scenarios.  We are now back in tents as a very dark ominous looking cloud quickly approaches. 

That’s the latest from Shuksan,

RMI Guide Geoff Schellens & Team

Rope Work on Shuksan. Photo: Geoff Schellens

Mt. Shuksan: Walter & Team Climb Well, But Weather Holds The Cards

Posted by: Mike Walter | September 05, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *North Cascades
Elevation: 5,700'

We had a mixed bag of weather this trip: some sunshine, some rain, some thunder, some lightning. A strong low pressure system moving in from the south has been causing heavy rain and flash flooding in Oregon and Washington, but we were able to squeak in an enjoyable climb today. We climbed from our bivy sight at 5,700’ on Mt. Shuksan, climbed up through the Fisher Chimneys, on to the White Salmon Glacier, up Winnie’s Slide, onto the Upper Curtis Glacier, up Hell’s Highway, and onto the Sulphide Glacier before weather forced our hand and we headed back down to camp. We had a full day of climbing, and almost got to the top. Now we’re back in our tents, safe, dry, and content, listening to the rain. The squirrelly weather did provide us with this beautiful sunset last night though!

RMI Guide Mike Walter

Mt. Baker at sunset from Fisher Chimney's high camp. Photo: Mike Walter

Mt. Shuksan: Geoff and Team Recount Summit Day

Posted by: Geoff Schellens | September 05, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *North Cascades
Elevation: 9,127'

Hi all,

Well we lucked out with the weather yesterday and made the summit of Mt Shuksan.  If you had asked me our chances of climbing yesterday morning I would have said not good.  The sky was very dark with heavy clouds hanging all around the summit, but as we started climbing they seemed to dissipate.  Kirk and Harry did a great job despite being a bit nervous about the rock climbing necessary for the summit pyramid.  We left our camp at around 7:30 AM and found ourselves smiling on the summit by 12:30.  All in all a great day.

Today we are resting and recovering during the intermittent rain showers and will hopefully get some more training in when we can.

That’s all for now,
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens and Team

Kirk, Harry and Geoff on the summit of Shuksan - Photo Geoff Schellens

Mt. Shuksan: SUMMIT!

Posted by: Geoff Schellens | September 04, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *North Cascades
Elevation: 9,127'

12:30 p.m. PST : RMI Guide Geoff Schellens just called into RMI to let everyone know the team reached the summit of Mt. Shuksan at 9,127’!  Geoff Reported that the sky was dark and cloudy with a few sprinkles, but the rocks were relatively dry.  The team has started their descent and will report when they are back their base camp.  The have another day of training planned before heading out of the North Cascade Range on Friday.

Congratulations Team!

Climbing in the North Cascades Range - RMI Photo Collection
1

Congratulations! Can’t wait to hear about your adventure. Always.

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Posted by: Beth on 9/4/2013 at 4:59 pm


Mt. Shuksan: Schellens and Team Enjoy Better Than Expected Weather

Posted by: Geoff Schellens | September 03, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *North Cascades

September 3, 2013 AM

Hi all!  Kirk, Harry, and I had a very nice hike into the low bivy site on Mt. Shuksan yesterday; partly cloudy, but completely dry.  Last night we had a few light showers and then it opened up on us this morning around 8 - 9 a.m.  It has given us a little reprieve but is now starting to rain again.  We’re relaxing in tents and hoping for another break this afternoon so we can get some training in.  Everyone is in good spirits despite the weather and some wet boots from this mornings rain storm.  Thanks for checking in!

September 3, 2013 PM

Our hopes came true!  The weather broke this afternoon and we were able to get outside and get some training in.  We’re taking a break right now but will head back out and take advantage of the dry weather and train some more.  The forecasts predicts decent weather for tomorrow so we may try to climb.  I’ll keep you posted on our that goes. We’ll check in again tomorrow!

RMI Guide Geoff Schellens

Mt. Shuksan admist the clouds.  Photo: Geoff Schellens
1

Glad to hear you are out and about because we all know camping is in-tents! Love to you all

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Posted by: Beth on 9/3/2013 at 4:52 pm


Mt. Shuksan: Mike Walter’s Team Summit Via Fisher Chimneys!

Posted by: Mike Walter | September 01, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *North Cascades
Elevation: 9,127'

Jeff and I had a great day yesterday. We climbed from Lake Ann up through the Fisher Chimneys and established camp at the edge of the Upper Curtis. After a nice long lunch, we packed our light summit packs and headed out. We reached the summit via the Southeast ridge at about 4:50pm, and had it all to ourselves. We arrived back at camp at around 7:25 last night. Today we’ll likely do some ice climbing this morning before packing up camp and heading back down through the Chimneys. But first, it’s coffee time!

RMI Guide Mike Walter

Mt. Shuksan summit via the Fisher Chimneys Route. Photo: Mike Walter

Mt. Shuksan: Team Schellens Weathers the Weather

Posted by: Geoff Schellens | August 30, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *North Cascades

We were hoping for a break in the weather as today was our last chance for a Mt. Shuksan summit bid, instead we got more rain. It’s one of the dice we roll when spending time in the mountains. Whatever our weather, Joy and Jim are still laughing and having fun.  The rain has been steady all day today and even breakfast had to be made in the vestibule of the tent.  We are hoping to see a weather break or two for our hike out tomorrow.

RMI Guide Geoff Schellens

Mt. Shuksan amidst the clouds. Photo: Geoff Schellens On Mt. Shuksan - View from the tent vestibule. Photo: Geoff Schellens

Mt. Shuksan: Schellens & Team Continue Training in the North Cascades

Posted by: Geoff Schellens | August 28, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *North Cascades

Hi All,
Well, Jim, Joy, and I were hoping to climb Shuksan today but the weather once again thwarted our summit attempt. It rained hard all through the night and intermittently this morning.  We had a nice breakfast between showers and then hopped back in tents for the better part of the morning.  We emerged from our tents around 10:30 to find threatening clouds bearing down on us but as it was not raining at that moment we decided to do some more training.  That has become our motto on this seminar, “Let’s do some training until it starts raining”.  After going through crevasse rescue practice and a lunch break the weather kept holding for us so we got in some great ice climbing and fixed line training. During dinner we watched as the clouds appeared to be breaking up and patches of blue sky made their way towards us.  Tonight we are all sleeping with fingers crossed that we get our chance to climb tomorrow. That’s all for now.  Thanks for checking in.

RMI Guide Geoff Schellens

2

FLOS3 sends best wishes and we hope the rain stops!

From (also rainy) Boonton, NJ, elevation 397 Feet :)

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Posted by: Stef + Trish on 8/29/2013 at 4:45 am

Rain, rain go away…. Glad to hear there are breaks and you have been able to train.
The summit is calling down everyone’s name, so positive thinking that Thursday… read more

Posted by: Jann on 8/28/2013 at 9:26 pm


Mt. Shuksan: Team Schellens Continues Their Training in the North Cascades

Posted by: Geoff Schellens | August 27, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *North Cascades

Hi all,
Jim, Joy, and I had a great day of training today despite some very ominous looking clouds- the rain held off until about 4 pm.  We did some good crampon review, self-arrest and team-arrest practice, as well as rope travel on glaciers and lastly climbing on rock.  I think Jim and Joy enjoyed the rock climbing practice the most.  Now we are in our tents again waiting for the rain to stop so we can hopefully get an anchor building lesson in before dinner and then bed.  We will try to climb tomorrow if we get the weather for it; otherwise, we have Thursday to fall back on.  We are all having a great time despite the rain, and spirits are still high.  Jim and Joy are laughing right through the bad weather.  That’s all for now.

Thanks for checking in on us.

RMI Guide Geoff Schellens

1

Jim and Joy you guys are awesome!  Sounds like you are working hard yet having fun!  Can’t wait to hear this from your perspective and see some photos!

Enjoy!

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Posted by: Jordan on 8/28/2013 at 9:03 am


Mt. Shuksan: Schellens and team check in

Posted by: Geoff Schellens | August 26, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *North Cascades
Elevation: 6,200'

Hi all
Joy, Jim, and I are enjoying a restful day here at the lower bivy camp (6,200’) on Mt. Shuksan. We have accomplished some training in between showers, spirits are high and everyone is having a good time.  Forced tent time is notorious on any long climb and such skills as “sport eating” and “competitive napping” are worth being good at, and we have practiced both today.  We are hoping for better weather tomorrow for more training and to move camp higher on the mountain.

Thanks to everyone for checking in.
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens

1

Thanks for the updates. As Joy well knows I like to follow her hikes and treks when possible.
Thinking of you all each day.

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Posted by: Jann on 8/27/2013 at 8:34 am


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Recent Images From North Cascades

  • Rope Work on Shuksan. Photo: Geoff Schellens
  • Mt. Baker at sunset from Fisher Chimney's high camp. Photo: Mike Walter
  • Kirk, Harry and Geoff on the summit of Shuksan - Photo Geoff Schellens
  • Climbing in the North Cascades Range - RMI Photo Collection
  • Mt. Shuksan admist the clouds.  Photo: Geoff Schellens
  • Mt. Shuksan summit via the Fisher Chimneys Route. Photo: Mike Walter
  • Mt. Shuksan amidst the clouds. Photo: Geoff Schellens
  • On Mt. Shuksan - View from the tent vestibule. Photo: Geoff Schellens
  • Sunset from Mt. Shuksan. Photo: RMI Collection
  • The hike into the Fisher Chimney's camp. Photo: Kristina Weller
  • Mt. Shuksan Fisher Chimneys camp. Photo: Mike Walter
  • RMI Climbers silhouetted on Mt. Shuksan. Photo: Kristina Weller
  • Rappel on West Ridge - Forbidden Peak. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Boston Basin in the North Cascades. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Jim Lumberg on summit pyramid Photo: Alex Van Steen
  • Summit! Photo Jake Beren
  • Ascending the fun rock toward the summit Photo: Alex Van Steen
  • RMI Guide Billy Nugent and team on the summit of Mt. Shuksan.
  • Team En Route to Summit August 8, 2012  Photo: Mike Walter
  • Team on Summit August 8, 2012  Photo: Mike Walter
  • Summit Climb July 25 - 28 team learning their skills today. Photo: Win Whittaker
  • RMI Guides Ed Viesturs and Peter Whittaker on the summit of Mt. Rainier July 26th.  Photo: Peter Whittaker
  • The ALA Climb for Clean Air on their way to Camp Muir. Photo: Win Whittaker
  • Mt. Shuksan Camp
  • Sunset at Mt. Shuksan. Mt. Baker in the background.
  • The RMI Team on the summit of Mt. Shuksan.  Photo: Tyler Reid
  • Team on the Mt. Shuksan Summit! Photo by Mike Walter
  • The Mt. Shuksan team! Photo by Mike Walter.