Posts for North Cascades

Fisher Chimneys: Walter and Team Check In

Posted by: Mike Walter | July 23, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *North Cascades
Elevation: 5,700'

Hi Everyone,

Yesterday we hiked past Lake Ann and climbed 3rd and 4th class terrain to our bivy site at 5700’. The weather was generally cooperative, with light to moderate rain showers coming in and out.
The weather today is less accommodating; after a pleasantly dry breakfast we got back in our tents as heavy rain moved in. So, we’re taking advantage of some down time to rest and hopefully we’ll have a crack at climbing tomorrow.
This rain event is very unusual for July in the Cascades, and we’re hopeful that we’ll get back to the standard fare of sunshine.

RMI Guide Mike Walter & Team

Camp on Fisher Chimneys. Photo: Mike Walter

Shuksan: Walter and Team are Rained Out

Posted by: Mike Walter | July 20, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *North Cascades
Elevation: 7,000'

The weather hasn’t cooperated with us the past couple of days, and we’re getting ready to pack up and descend through the Fisher Chimneys, and return to the trailhead. It’s still raining here, and we have a lot of climbing ahead of us just to get back to the approach trail. We’ll enjoy the climbing, but we’re also looking forward to a warm shower!

We’ve done the bulk of the climbing on this route already, and only about 2000’ stand between us and the summit. But there’s no way we can move upwards in these wet conditions.

We’ll touch base when we’re back at the trailhead.

RMI Guide Mike Walter


Shuksan: Walter & Team Hope for Better Weather

Posted by: Mike Walter | July 19, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *North Cascades
Elevation: 7,000'

After a great day of climbing yesterday, we had high hopes for a summit push today. Unfortunately, the mountain had other plans and the weather kept us in our tents all day as it has been consistently raining and windy. Things are seeming to ease up a bit this evening, and the forecast shows an improving trend. We’ll see how the situation progresses, but right now we are hoping to go for the top early tomorrow morning.
Either way, we’ll be climbing back down through the Fisher Chimneys tomorrow and headed back to the trailhead. Hopefully we’ll get a chance to climb up before we climb back down.

RMI Guide Mike Walter


Mt. Shuksan: Walter and team arrive at high camp

Posted by: Mike Walter | July 18, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *North Cascades
Elevation: 7,000

We had a great day of climbing today on Mt. Shuksan. We started at the Lake Ann trail head (4700’) and climbed up through the Fisher Chimneys, which consisted of a couple thousand feet of 3rd and 4th class rock climbing. The weather and climbing conditions were perfect for us, and we climbed at a leisurely pace, making it to high camp in a little over 6 hours. Our spectacular camp is at just below 7000’, on a rock ridge nestled in between the Upper Curtis Glacier and the White Salmon Glacier. We’ve got views southwest to Mt. Baker and north into Canada; it is truly a stunning alpine setting.
We’re hoping the weather cooperates with us (the forecast is calling for some rain) and let’s us climb to the summit tomorrow. We’ll be in touch tomorrow to let you know how it goes.

RMI Guide Mike Walter

Fisher Chimneys camp just below 7000', on a rock ridge in between the Upper Curtis Glacier and the White Salmon Glacier. Photo: Mike Walter
2

And i will work on my stumbles & try nor to ‘strumble’ so much.  :o)

Climb on!

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Posted by: Mary on 7/19/2014 at 4:35 am

I strumbled across your blog post & found the climb intriging but ‘no photos?’

I need visuals.  Safe travels.

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Posted by: Mary on 7/19/2014 at 4:32 am


Forbidden Peak: Davis and Team Summit

Posted by: Leon Davis, Bryan Hendrick | July 13, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *North Cascades
Elevation: 8,630'

Good morning everybody. This is Leon and team calling from our way out of Boston Basin in this morning. Another beautiful day today, just like yesterday, and we climbed up the West Ridge of Forbidden. We had a successful trip, starting out at 2:30 in the morning under a full moon. It was beautiful, a perfect day. And yeah, we’re all doing well heading out to the cars hopefully in time to watch the World Cup Finals. Talk to you guys later. Thank you. Bye.

RMI Guide Leon Davis


RMI Guide Leon Davis checks in from the North Cascades.


North Cascades: Davis and Team Check in from Boston Basin

Posted by: Bryan Hendrick, Leon Davis | July 12, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *North Cascades
Elevation: 6,200'

July 11, 2014 - 8:15 pm PT

Hi Everybody this is Leon and Bryan in the Boston Basin, we climbed Sharkfin Tower today.  It was a beautiful day.  Everyone did great, everyone is feeling it but we got a lot of good training in.
Tomorrow our plan is to wake up early and get an alpine start and head up to the west ridge of Forbidden and climb that thing.
All is well, we will talk to you tomorrow.

RMI Guide Leon Davis

Johannesburg from Boston Basin. Photo: Kristina Weller


RMI Guide Leon Davis checks in from Boston Basin.


North Cascades: Davis & Team Check In from Boston Basin

Posted by: Leon Davis, Bryan Hendrick | July 10, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *North Cascades
Elevation: 6,200'

Hi, this is Leon calling from Boston Basin Camp. We had a beautiful day getting here and just enjoying an evening after dinner. All is well. Tomorrow we are having a training day and planning to head up and climb Sharkfin Tower. Tomorrow’s weather looks great so we are psyched. I’ll talk to you guys tomorrow. Bye.

RMI Guide Leon Davis

Boston Basin in the North Cascades. Photo: RMI Collection


RMI Guide Leon Davis calls in from Boston Basin.

1

Hi to Meredith, Leon, and the whole team!  Wishing you stellar conditions and a great experience.
-Geoff

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Posted by: Geoff on 7/11/2014 at 5:51 pm


Forbidden Peak: Fixmer and Team Reach Summit

Posted by: Lindsay Fixmer | July 10, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *North Cascades
Elevation: 8,630'

In the North Cascades, RMI Guide Lindsay Fixmer and team reached the summit of Forbidden Peak via the West Ridge.  Lindsay reported perfect weather during their summit bid and good route conditions.

Way to Climb!

An RMI climber ascending the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak in the North Cascades, Washington. Photo: Lindsay Fixmer An RMI team on the summit of Forbidden Peak in the North Cascades, Washington. Photo: Lindsay Fixmer

Mt. Shuksan: Geoff and Team Spend the Day Training

Posted by: Geoff Schellens | September 06, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *North Cascades

Hi all,
Today is our last day on Shuksan before we hike out tomorrow.  We spent the morning relaxing getting in and out of our tents as the rain storms were sporadic.  By early afternoon it seemed stable enough and we did some training.  First we practiced knots and hitches, then we moved on to building snow anchors, and wrapped up with some crevasse rescue scenarios.  We are now back in tents as a very dark ominous looking cloud quickly approaches. 

That’s the latest from Shuksan,

RMI Guide Geoff Schellens & Team

Rope Work on Shuksan. Photo: Geoff Schellens

Mt. Shuksan: Walter & Team Climb Well, But Weather Holds The Cards

Posted by: Mike Walter | September 05, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *North Cascades
Elevation: 5,700'

We had a mixed bag of weather this trip: some sunshine, some rain, some thunder, some lightning. A strong low pressure system moving in from the south has been causing heavy rain and flash flooding in Oregon and Washington, but we were able to squeak in an enjoyable climb today. We climbed from our bivy sight at 5,700’ on Mt. Shuksan, climbed up through the Fisher Chimneys, on to the White Salmon Glacier, up Winnie’s Slide, onto the Upper Curtis Glacier, up Hell’s Highway, and onto the Sulphide Glacier before weather forced our hand and we headed back down to camp. We had a full day of climbing, and almost got to the top. Now we’re back in our tents, safe, dry, and content, listening to the rain. The squirrelly weather did provide us with this beautiful sunset last night though!

RMI Guide Mike Walter

Mt. Baker at sunset from Fisher Chimney's high camp. Photo: Mike Walter

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Recent Images From North Cascades

  • Camp on Fisher Chimneys. Photo: Mike Walter
  • Fisher Chimneys camp just below 7000', on a rock ridge in between the Upper Curtis Glacier and the White Salmon Glacier. Photo: Mike Walter
  • Johannesburg from Boston Basin. Photo: Kristina Weller
  • Boston Basin in the North Cascades. Photo: RMI Collection
  • An RMI climber ascending the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak in the North Cascades, Washington. Photo: Lindsay Fixmer
  • An RMI team on the summit of Forbidden Peak in the North Cascades, Washington. Photo: Lindsay Fixmer
  • Rope Work on Shuksan. Photo: Geoff Schellens
  • Mt. Baker at sunset from Fisher Chimney's high camp. Photo: Mike Walter
  • Kirk, Harry and Geoff on the summit of Shuksan - Photo Geoff Schellens
  • Climbing in the North Cascades Range - RMI Photo Collection
  • Mt. Shuksan admist the clouds.  Photo: Geoff Schellens
  • Mt. Shuksan summit via the Fisher Chimneys Route. Photo: Mike Walter
  • Mt. Shuksan amidst the clouds. Photo: Geoff Schellens
  • On Mt. Shuksan - View from the tent vestibule. Photo: Geoff Schellens
  • Sunset from Mt. Shuksan. Photo: RMI Collection
  • The hike into the Fisher Chimney's camp. Photo: Kristina Weller
  • Mt. Shuksan Fisher Chimneys camp. Photo: Mike Walter
  • RMI Climbers silhouetted on Mt. Shuksan. Photo: Kristina Weller
  • Rappel on West Ridge - Forbidden Peak. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Boston Basin in the North Cascades. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Jim Lumberg on summit pyramid Photo: Alex Van Steen
  • Summit! Photo Jake Beren
  • Ascending the fun rock toward the summit Photo: Alex Van Steen
  • RMI Guide Billy Nugent and team on the summit of Mt. Shuksan.
  • Team En Route to Summit August 8, 2012  Photo: Mike Walter
  • Team on Summit August 8, 2012  Photo: Mike Walter
  • Summit Climb July 25 - 28 team learning their skills today. Photo: Win Whittaker
  • RMI Guides Ed Viesturs and Peter Whittaker on the summit of Mt. Rainier July 26th.  Photo: Peter Whittaker