Posts for Guide News

Shishapangma: RMI Guide Team Returns to Kathmandu

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos | October 17, 2011
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Guide News *Everest

Dear friends, family and colleagues: we are happy to get back in touch with you. Before all, we would like to apologize for the lack of communication of the last 10 days, but unfortunately, we were the most frustrated with that issue. Our satellite phone decided not to cooperate with our solar panel, and recharging the battery was an impossible task. Being the last team this season on the mountain, we could not borrow any other means of communication and we understand the worries this might have caused. But this is what being in the Himalayas brings to all of us…

That said, we are eager to announce that entire team is back safe in Kathmandu after having reached the SUMMIT ON THE CENTRAL SUMMIT OF SHISHAPANGMA at 8013metres!!!!
On Oct.11th, Bridget, Jake, Geoff and Elias reached the central summit in the mid afternoon, on a warm and cloudless day, after having followed the NW ridge for several hours from C3 (Elias and Bridget) at 7450m and from C2.5 (Geoff and Jake) at 7100m. The next day, Oct 12th, Eric and Leon, who had made shelter in C3 the previous day, started strong towards the summit. Leon reached the summit hours later, having Eric turning around well above 7600m in a wise and mature decision that honors this young, strong and smart climber, since his cold toes were not warming up in those early hours and up there you are the mercy of the temperatures.

Two days later, the entire team was reunited at Base Camp, from were we would proceed to do several back-carries to clear our gear and trash from anywhere below C1 at 6400m. After another day of rest and packing, we initiated our descent towards the trail head, also called Chinese Base Camp, were we arrived yesterday, the 16th. We were picked up by our truck (who learned about our arrival by a paper note sent down 2 days earlier with a yak shepherd) which would take us to the town of Nyalam, just a few Kilometers away from the Tibetan-Nepali border, to spend the night. This morning (Oct 17th) we made it into Nepal not without a couple small issues at the border and multiple traffic stops en-route to our hotel in Kathmandu, due to the heavy tourist season in the area. Is close to midnight here, so I will stop writing, but we will send you a good recap of the entire expedition soon.

Again, thanks to all of you for your support, your interest and the good vibrations sent. Best regards.
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

Geoff Schellens, Elias de Andres-Martos, and Jake Beren on the Central Summit of Shishapangma - Photo by Bridget Schletty Elias de Andres-Martos and Bridget Schletty  on the Central Summit of Shishapangma

Sign Up For Guide News 2011 Email Alerts

11

Shishapangma: Group Returns to ABC

Posted by: Geoff Schellens | October 17, 2011
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Guide News *Everest

Hey All,
This is a dispatch from the Shishapangma Team.  We are all back to Advanced Basecamp and everyone is doing very well.  Jake, Elias, Bridget and myself reached the summit on the 11th, Leon reached the summit on the 12th.  We are all back at ABC packing up and heading to Kathmandu on Monday the 17th.

We will update you again soon.

RMI Guide Geoff Schellens

Sign Up For Guide News 2011 Email Alerts

2

Shishapangma: News Regarding the Team

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos | October 14, 2011
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Guide News *Everest

We wanted to give everyone a quick update from the Shishapangma crew. We have not received any new information directly from the team, but we did learn that the Liaison officer received a note from the team requesting their yaks to arrive at Advanced Basecamp on the 15th and vehicles to arrive at Basecamp the following day. They will spend the night of October 16th either at Nyalam or Zhangmu, depending on what time they get back to Basecamp. We will post again as soon as we hear any additional information.

Sign Up For Guide News 2011 Email Alerts

3

Shishapangma: Team Ready for Summit Push

Posted by: Jake Beren | October 05, 2011
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Guide News *Everest
Elevation: 24,500'

It has been a busy few days here on Shishapangma. Yesterday a number of teams reached the summit and we are very happy for them.  Our team is back at Base camp after a solid rotation up high. Our team carried, put in and spent a few nights at Camp 2, roughly the same height as the summit of Aconcagua.

On this last round were able to get in a pretty windy carry to Camp 3, somewhere around 24,500’ above the ocean. Now we’re resting and recouping here at Advance Base Camp.  If weather holds we will launch this weekend for shot at the top. 

RMI Guide Jake Beren


RMI Guide Jake Beren checks in from Advance Base Camp on Shishapangma.

Sign Up For Guide News 2011 Email Alerts

12

Shishapangma: Team Establishes Camp 2

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos | October 03, 2011
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Guide News *Everest
Elevation: 22,965'

Hello,
This is the Shishapanga team with a new update.  Camp 2 (22,965’) has been established and the team is starting today to do some rotations and the weather forecast for the next few days is good.
We will try to push it a little further to Camp 3 (24,278’)  with some carries and get acclimatized.
Everybody is doing pretty well and we are excited and in very good spirits.  The team is working well together and despite the hardness of Himalayan climbing we are having a really good time.
So that is it for now and we’ll be calling soon with a new update.  Take care and hello to everyone.

RMI Guide Elias De Andres Martos


RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos checks in from Camp 2 on Shishapangma.

Sign Up For Guide News 2011 Email Alerts

3

Shishapangma: Team Checks in from Advanced Base Camp

Posted by: Eric Frank | September 24, 2011
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Guide News *Everest
Elevation: 18,400'

Hello this is the Shishapangma Team calling from our advance base camp. This morning we woke up to a dusting of snow on the ground here at 18,400’ and it seems as though the storm left a few feet on the upper mountain.

Part of the team is finishing their first rotation through camp one up near 21,000’ and will be descending either tonight or tomorrow. It seems as though we will be sitting here at our advanced base camp for a few days resting and then hoping for clear weather to go up on our next rotation. Everyone is doing well and climbing strong. We will call back in a few days and check in then.

Bye!

RMI Guide Eric Frank


RMI Shishapangma Team Checks in from Advanced Base Camp

1

Shishapangma: RMI Team Ready to Begin Rotations Above Camp 1

Posted by: Jake Beren | September 20, 2011
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Guide News *Everest

Hey guys, this is the Shishapangma team.  We are just calling to check in.  Everybody is well.  We did feel the big earthquake the other day.  Both our team up at Camp 1 and our team at BC are just fine.

We are going to send another team up in the direction of Camp 1 later this afternoon.  We are going to start our rotations a little higher up.  All is well here.  We are waiting for a weather window and just hanging out.

So, we hope all is well back in Ashford.  We’ll be giving you a shout when we have a little more to say.  That is all from Tibet.

RMI Guide Jake Beren

Sign Up For Guide News 2011 Email Alerts


Shishapangma: RMI Guides Carry to Camp 1

Posted by: | September 19, 2011
Categories: *Guide News *Everest

The Shishapangma team left a voice mail message with the RMI office yesterday saying everything was going well. It was a little hard to decipher which is understandable coming from half way around the world via satellite. Here is what we were able to understand:

“Hey guys it is the Shishapangma crew. All doing well here at Basecamp after carries from/to Camp 1. Heading up to Camp 1 again in a few days. Wanted to let you know we are well. We will be heading up again soon.”

Sign Up For Guide News 2011 Email Alerts


RMI Guides Paul Edgren & Billy Nugent Reach 100 Summits of Mt. Rainier!

Posted by: | September 16, 2011
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Guide News *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

It has been a monumentous week for RMI Guides Paul Edgren and Billy Nugent.  Paul reached the Mt. Rainier summit for the 100th time on September 11th and Billy on September 15th!

Congratulations Paul & Billy!

RMI Guide Paul Edgren Mt. Rainier summit crater RMI Guide Billy Nugent

Shishapangma: RMI Guides Check in from 17,000’

Posted by: | September 12, 2011
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Guide News *Everest
Elevation: 17,000'

Hello, this is the Shishapangma team calling from 17,000’ in the middle of the Tibetan Plateau on the way to Advanced Base Camp (ABC).  We have spent three days at Chinese Base Camp at 16,000’.  The team is doing really well.  We actually went for a nice, leisurely one-hour run, which was a record for everybody, yesterday.  And we are really excited and having a good time.  We hope to call in the next few days after we have set up camp at Advanced Base Camp.  That is all for now.
Hello everyone from Tibet. 

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos


RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos checks in from 17,000' in Tibet.

Sign Up For Guide News 2011 Email Alerts


Previous Page More Entries

Recent Images From Guide News

  • Tucker's view while sending this blog post. Photo: Mark Tucker
  • A Sherpa load to Camp 1. Photo: Mark Tucker
  • Everest BC Horseshoe Pit. Photo: Mark Tucker
  • Families invited us in for a traditional roast of vegetables, chicken and rabbit. Banana trees and lush gardens form the backdrop.
  • Porter and trekking guide training included Moni and Dani men from the various villages through which we trek.
  • I had the opportunity to visit both Indonesian and expat schools, from tekah (kindergarten) through high school, and several churches.
  • This 10 year old girl made a special trip to offer me a large sweet potato – a most gracious gift!
  • Snow anchor practice in the Brighton Backcountry. Photo: Robby Young
  • Student-led tour in Little Cottonwood Canyon. Photo: Robby Young
  • Tour planning at the Steam Mill Yurt. Photo: Robby Young
  • Join RMI for classes on how to prepare for Mt. Rainier at your local REI store!
  • Mike King beginning his snow pit profiling. Photo: Mike King
  • Analyzing the snow pack profile. Photo: Mike King
  • RMI Guide Solveig Waterfall drops in. Photo: Tyler Reid
  • Katie arrives at Camp Muir on the ascent. Courtesy Stephen Coker.
  • Katie takes off running across the Cowlitz Glacier. Courtesy Stephen Coker.
  • Katie's stopwatch after reaching the parking lot back at Paradise.
  • RMI Guide Katie Bono
  • RMI Guide Katie Bono on speed ascent of Mt. Rainier.  Photo: Steve Coker
  • John Colver and friends on the Mt. Rainier Summit.
  • Nawang Gombu on Mt. Rainier in 1993
  • Nawang Gombu Sherpa
  • The AMGA Rock Instructors Course, Bend OR.  Photo: Cody Doolan
  • Bend, OR - AMGA Rock Instructors Course.  Photo: Cody Doolan
  • JJ on the summit of Argentina's Aconcagua
  • JJ crossing a crevasse on a snowy climb of Mt. Rainier
  • JJ and RMI Guide Jake Beren on the summit of Mexico's Orizaba
  • JJ handling the ropes on Mexico's Orizaba
  • RMI Guide Lindsay Mann enjoying a spring day on Independence Pass, CO.  Photo: Pete Van Deventer
  • Independence Pass near Aspen, CO.  Photo: Pete Van Deventer.
  • RMI Guide LInden Mallory
  • Leave No Trace Community Blog
  • Adam Knoff closes in on the top
  • Adam Knoff competing in the Teva Mountain Games
  • RMI Guide Gilbert Chase climbing in the Alaska Range
  • A self portrait while tent bound.
  • RMI Guide Gilbert Chase on Rainier's Kautz Route
  • Adam Knoff climbing at Bingo Cave, Hyalite Canyon, Montana
  • Adam practicing for the Teva Mountain Games on Upper Candle, Hyalite Canyon, Montana
  • RMI Guide Lindsay Mann learns how to get her clients safely into steep ski terrain.
  • RMI Guide Lindsay Mann carves up the new snow.
  • AMGA Ski Guide Course participants.
Whittaker Mountaineering Notebleu Design

©2013 RMI Expeditions // info@rmiguides.com