Posts for Peru

Alpamayo: Elias & Team Stay One More Night at Camp 1

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos | July 21, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 14,270'

Good afternoon. This is the Alpamayo climbing team. It’s 2 PM local time, calling from Camp 1. We decided to stay here. Different factors made the decision happen… some of them, a little bit of a dust of snow last night and a lot of teams coming down from High Camp made us decide to wait another day here and enjoy the benefits of acclimatization at this elevation. The plan is to move up tomorrow and, hopefully, climb the next day. Everything’s looking good—weather, team spirits, and everything. So, we’ll keep you posted in a couple days, hopefully from the summit. Regardless tomorrow we’ll check in from High Camp. I hope everybody back home is doing well. Take care.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos


RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos checks in.

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1

Hope the climb is going well.  I am excited to hear about the trip!  Wishing you all a safe climb!

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Posted by: Chelsea Beauchamp on 7/22/2014 at 8:01 am


Alpamayo: Elias and Team Climb to Moraine Camp

Posted by: | July 20, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 16,240'

Good afternoon, This is Elías and the Alpamayo climbing team. It’s Sunday, the 20th, at 3:30 pm local time, and we have just arrived at Camp 1, or Moraine Camp, where we deposited a cache a couple days ago. We are turning into our tents, and we’re going to start an early dinner pretty soon here, with the hopes of Col Camp, or Camp 2 tomorrow. Potentially we could be going for the summit in just 36 hours, but we’ll keep you posted on that. Again, tomorrow the plan is to get to Col Camp, and we will keep you up to date on that, as well.

Take care.
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

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Alpamayo: Elias and Team Rest Today at Base Camp

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos | July 19, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 14,270'

Good afternoon from Alpamayo Base Camp. We are checking in from our rest day. We had an uneventful day today, just took our time to eat and drink, and rehydrate. And we witnessed a little bit of rain and light snow with hail today—the first one of the trip. But the weather hasn’t been very bad. It’s just been normal Andean weather. We don’t have much to share today. We’re just excited to head up tomorrow to Camp 1, and other than the sighting of the birth of baby sheep that happened right here at base camp, nothing major today. So again we are just so excited to get packed tomorrow morning and head up to Camp 1, from where we will be checking in tomorrow. And so we are letting you know that the next day we are going up to Camp 1. That’s it for now. We’ll check again later. Bye.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos


RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos checks in from Alpamayo Base Camp.

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Alpamayo: Elias with an Update from Moraine Camp

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos | July 18, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 16,240'

Hello, this is the Alpamayo climbing team. We are calling from Base Camp. We had a really nice day. We went up to Camp 1, also known as Moraine Camp, to do a carry. We climbed about 600 meters of elevation, some 2,000 feet. We dropped off the gear, set up camp, and we came down. We’re now relaxing here. It’s about 1:30 local time. And we’re going to have another awesome meal prepared by our own cook, Emilio. The plan for the remainder of the day is to rest, and we will do that tomorrow, as well – a rest day before we start moving up. That’s pretty much it for now. Kensie, Parker, Tony, and Pete are doing great, and we are psyched! That’s all for now. Elías speaking here. We’ll keep you posted on our next moves tomorrow. Hope everyone’s doing well back home.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos


Elias de Andres Martos called in from Moraine Camp.

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Wishing you a great climb with views that define breath taking and air that feels good to breathe deeply. Hope you all continue to feeling good as ur elevation increases.… read more

Posted by: Trudi Skinder on 7/18/2014 at 10:57 pm


Alpamayo: Elias Calls in from Base Camp

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos | July 17, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 14,270'

Hello this is the Alpamayo climbing team calling from base camp. It’s been an awesome two days from the trails to get here. We have settled into a really nice camp at the base of the mountain. We have already had lunch and enjoying some rest. The team is doing really well. Everybody’s moving pretty nicely along these elevations. Right now we are at 4,400 meters. We are going to relax for the remainder of the day, most likely do a carry tomorrow to Moraine Camp before taking a rest day the following day and continue to move up on the mountain. That’s it for now and we will keep you posted. Bye.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos


RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos calls in from basecamp.

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Hi Kenzie,
I am cheering for you and your team. What a spectacular adventure. Have the time of your life.
Michael Andrews

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Posted by: Michael Andrews on 7/18/2014 at 5:34 am


Alpamayo: Elias and Team Stretch Legs and Prepack

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos | July 16, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 10,000'

July 15, 2014 - 4:21 pm PT

Hello again from Huaraz!

Relaxing day we had after all the travelling today… A two hour walk after breakfast took the team the overlook above town from where we devised the closest peaks of the Cordillera Blanca. It served also to get the blood pumping, on this the first day above 3,000 m, elevation we reached yesterday by car, so all benefits. We had a great meal afterwards (pizza from the stove oven restaurant of “El Horno”, a classic in Huaraz) and an easy afternoon of pre-packing the duffles prior to tomorrow’s departure to the trailhead.

We´re getting ready for dinner and an early bed time; Cashapampa trailhead and eventually Llamacorral Camp await tomorrow. Next post will be from the trails.

Best regards,
Elias de Andres Martos

View of the Peruvian mountains from the hotel in Huaraz, Peru.  Photo: RMI Collection

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Cool. Keep the updates coming. We’re watching closely and I’m posting everything to Facebook. These updates are my only link to what you guys are doing and where you are.… read more

Posted by: Rhea Campbell & Alex Lickerman on 7/16/2014 at 8:36 am


Alpamayo: deAndres Martos & Team Arrive in Huaraz

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos | July 15, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru

Good morning from Huaraz!

The team is on its day one of the expedition. After meeting in Lima, we took the mandatory 8 hour ride to Huaraz and checked into the hotel. We met with Peter, our outfitter and best asset in Peru, and headed for a much needed dinner. Early bed time to overcome the many hours of international (and domestic) travel and we´re now ready for breakfast. The plan for today? A 2 to 3 hour walk in the vicinity of town, a thorough gear check and pack for tomorrow’s departure to Cashapampa, the trail head for Alpamayo.

Best regards,

RMI Guide Elias deAndres Martos & Team

Team Breakfast in Huaraz. Photo: Elisa deAndres Martos

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Pete-

What a feast! Best wishes to you and your trail mates for a successful climb!

Dad

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Posted by: Ted Sage on 7/16/2014 at 4:15 pm

Pete,

Great to see your smiling face in the Huaraz pic.  Jim Daverman alerted me to your presence on this trip.

Good luck;  make it happen!

Art Muir

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Posted by: Art Muir on 7/15/2014 at 7:40 pm


Peru Seminar: de Andres Martos and Team Return to Lima

Posted by: Robby Young, Elias de Andres Martos | July 13, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru

Greetings all,

After spending the last 10 days above 14,000’, our eyes and lungs relished in the sights, smells, and the oxygen-rich, moist ocean air we encountered on the drive back from Huaraz to Lima. A stop in Playa Barranca for ceviche, tacu-tato, and other local seafood dishes truly brought our expedition full circle as we enjoyed an ocean view from our lunch table. Upon arrival in Lima, the inevitable disbanding of the team began as some caught midnight flights back to friends and family, while a few have one more day in Lima to relax, catch the World Cup Final, and relive the wonderful experiences we’ve had over the past couple weeks in the Cordillera Blanca. Best wishes from sea level and thanks for following along!

RMI Guides Robby Young, Elias de Andres Martos, and the Peru Seminar Team

The Peru Seminar team enjoying the sand in Playa Barranca, Peru. Photo: Robby Young The Peru Seminar team preparing for their ceviche and tacu-tato lunch in Playa Barranca, Peru. Photo: Robby Young

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Peru Seminar: Elias & Team At the Trailhead

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Robby Young | July 11, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru

The team is back at the trailhead in the village of Pashpa. The bus is waiting to shuttle us back to Huaraz as soon as the donkeys make it down from the Ishinca Valley Base Camp.  Tomorrow I will send a final dispatch and some photos.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

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Way to go Lucy! We think you are amazing!  We are all so proud of you. We love you and cannot wait to hear all about your trip.

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Posted by: Erle, Mom, Donald & John on 7/16/2014 at 12:22 pm

Yea, Kim!  hope it was a great experience - can’t wait to hear from you!  love, momma

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Posted by: Jane lubow on 7/11/2014 at 3:14 pm


Peru Seminar: Elias & Team Summit Tocllaraju!

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Robby Young | July 10, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 18,143'

Hello this is the Peru climbing team. Elias speaking, Robby next to me, and the climbers are taking a break at 5,000 meters. We were supposed to have called from the summit, but heavy winds and trying to get down delayed the phone call. But we have finished our last rappel. It was a pretty interesting one- a free-hanging rappel over bergschrund. We are taking a break just to anticipate the remaining ground, which is a pretty easy travel to Camp 1, from where we will be picking up our gear and heading out to base camp. We are pretty excited about that, but we still have a couple hours to go on the glacier. We just wanted to let you know everything went well with the last of our climbs, the most challenging one, Tocllaraju, 6,023 meters. We rocked it; we are pretty tired but psyched. The route has been as challenging as any of the two guys that are here who have climbed it, have ever seen it. We are happy with the work done. We will let you know more when we can post tomorrow when we arrive in Huaraz, where we can post some pictures. Thank you for all of the support to all of you who have been following our blog. The next post will be from Huaraz tomorrow. That’s it for now, 2 pm on Thursday. Tocllaraju! The Peru Seminar will be over soon.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos


RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos calling in after Tocllaraju summit.

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WOW!!  Must have been a glorious feeling…
both at the top and coming down.
Stay safe, MOM(B)

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Posted by: MOM-B on 7/11/2014 at 6:19 pm

Way to go, Underbiktor!

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Posted by: The Franktown Blochers on 7/11/2014 at 5:29 pm


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Recent Images From Peru

  • View of the Peruvian mountains from the hotel in Huaraz, Peru.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • Team Breakfast in Huaraz. Photo: Elisa deAndres Martos
  • The Peru Seminar team enjoying the sand in Playa Barranca, Peru. Photo: Robby Young
  • The Peru Seminar team preparing for their ceviche and tacu-tato lunch in Playa Barranca, Peru. Photo: Robby Young
  • The Peru Seminar team's knot session at the Ishinca Valley Base camp. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos
  • The team loading the bus in Huaraz, getting ready to head to the trailhead for the Ishinca Valley, Peru.  Photo: Elias de Andres Martos
  • The Alpamayo team at the alpine lake on the our hike. Photo: Eric Frank
  • View of the Peruvian mountains from the hotel. Photo: Eric Frank
  • Walking into Huaraz to get dinner. Photo: Eric Frank
  • June 30, 2014, RMI Peru Seminar team. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos
  • Laguna Churup hike on the RMI Peru Seminar. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos