Mt. Everest: Meetings Attended by Hahn & Tucker While the Climbing Team Hikes to Pumori Camp 1

Posted by: Dave Hahn, J.J. Justman, Billy Nugent, Mark Tucker | April 20, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 17,575'

Still at Everest Base.  Still a very difficult situation for all involved.

JJ and Billy led the climbing team on a hike to Pumori Camp One today, where they enjoyed awesome views of Mount Everest (during our hike to the same point last week we had no views due to an ill-timed and swirling snowstorm).  Mark Tucker and I attended a series of somewhat tense and serious meetings between team leaders, Sherpas, and the few government representatives present in camp.  It is very difficult to say what will happen going forward but one cannot under emphasize the enormity of the tragedy to the Sherpa community.  Each team, if it has not suffered death and loss directly, has lost relatives, close friends and neighbors to the icefall avalanche of April 18.  In too many cases, survivors saw the friends perish before their eyes or else they dealt with the difficult aftermath of body recovery personally.

Our Sherpa partners love their jobs and love to climb, but nobody is climbing now and all are struggling to come to terms with how to proceed in a way that honors those lost and protects those left alive.

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Mt. Everest with a wind-swept plume. Photo: RMI Collection

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Dhaulagiri: RMI Guide Team Checks in from Base Camp

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Jake Beren, Geoff Schellens, Garrett Stevens | April 20, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Guide News
Elevation: 15,584'

Hello, this is the Dhaulagiri climbing team on Sunday, the 20th. First of all we want to apologize for the lack of communication, but we’re having serious problems with our SAT phone and charger and we are trying to solve that problem. We are also saddened by the news that arrived to base camp here of the tragedy on Everest.  We want to send our condolences to the community of the Sherpa involved in this tragedy. Our progress here on the mountain continues. We have been able to reach almost Camp 2. We have been very unlucky with the weather. Until right now we have been the only team on the mountain, but we were able to make a carry to almost Camp 2 and spend a few nights at Camp 1. Right now the weather looks like it is favorable to us and we are hoping to take a few days of rest and make some more progress up high, hopefully getting to Camp 2 or 3 in the next week or so. Getting ready for a future summit push around the beginning of May. So we’ll keep you posted on that and we hope everybody is doing well. We’ll try to keep you posted as much as we can with the limited communications that we have here. Regards to all from Dhaulagiri Base Camp.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos


RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos calls in from Dhaulagiri Base Camp.

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Mt. Everest: Dave Hahn Calls in from Everest Base Camp

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Billy Nugent, J.J. Justman | April 19, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 17,575'

Hey this is Dave Hahn calling from Everest Base Camp.  Today was another difficult day dealing with the tragedies from yesterday.  The team members stayed in Base Camp today, it was cloudy, a little snowy, a little cold.  Three of our Sherpa team, Tshering, Lam Babu and Pemba helicoptered up, with others, to the accident site to continue the difficult and dangerous work that some of us were engaged in yesterday of well, body retrieval at this point.  There are still three missing, is my understanding, and they were not able to find those three.  But they did a great job in going up and working hard and trying to make a difference and we are very proud of them. 
The team is well, obviously, it is a difficult situation, everything is somewhat in limbo.  There is word of a number of teams that are pulling the plug and are not going to climb.  But we will see how these next couple of days play out.  I told my climbers to be ready for anything.
We will keep you informed.

Bye now.

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Khumbu Icefall after the April 18th avalanche. Photo: Dave Hahn


RMI Guide Dave Hahn checks in from Everest Base Camp.

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Mt. Rainier: Winter Seminar Wrap-up a Great Week of Training

Posted by: Brent Okita, Zeb Blais, Ben Liken, Robby Young | April 18, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,060'

RMI Guides Brent Okita, Zeb Blais and the Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter Team finished up a great week of training.  The team has started their descent and will be back at Rainier Basecamp this afternoon.

Congratulations Team!

Last rest break on the mountain. Photo: Brent Okita Group photo near Paradise. Photo: Brent Okita

Mt. Everest: Update 4-18-14

Posted by: Mark Tucker | April 17, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 17,575'

April 17th - 11:20 pm Pacific Time

RMI Guide and Everest Base Camp Manager Mark Tucker reports that RMI climbers, Sherpa and guides are safe at Everest Base Camp.  Around 7 am local time on April 18th an avalanche occured below the West Shoulder continuing down into the Khumbu Ice Fall.

Our thoughts and prayers are with the teams on Mt. Everest.

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35

Hi, Nicole! So relieved to hear you and your team are safe. Our prayers are with you all. Your dad is with me. He says “Be careful, we want you… read more

Posted by: Patti Tebo on 4/18/2014 at 11:48 am

Glad to hear that all of the RMI team is safe.  Prayers out to the individuals caught in the avalanche, as well as their family/friends.

read more

Posted by: Greg on 4/18/2014 at 11:27 am


Mt. Rainier: Winter Seminar Train in Some Tough Weather

Posted by: Brent Okita, Zeb Blais, Ben Liken, Robby Young | April 17, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,060'

A little wind and snow couldn’t keep this intrepid group of aspiring alpinists from training on our last full day of the seminar. What most impressed the guides was the 100% participation of the group given the 50 mph winds and heavy snowfall.

We look forward to a last evening together going over a couple more topics and sharing a war story or two.

RMI Guide Brent Okita

The winter seminar training in tough conditions at Camp Muir. Photo: Brent Okita
1

Hot meal and warm, cozy bed awaits…so proud of you!!

Jk

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Posted by: JK on 4/17/2014 at 9:39 pm


Mt. Everest: Dress Rehearsal through the Khumbu Icefall

Posted by: J.J. Justman, Dave Hahn, Billy Nugent, Mark Tucker | April 17, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 17,575'

Today was an exciting day! The entire team did a “live” rehearsal. What does that mean? Well…the team awoke at 3AM and slid on stiff boots and warm clothing, had a quick but nutritious breakfast and then began climbing the icefall with our headlamps lighting the way.

Climbing in the Khumbu Icefall is impossible to describe. It is impossible to relay what it’s like through photos and videos. However, the best I can say is it is simply spectacular! Giant blocks of ice tower above as you bob and weave, slice and dice your way through the giant maze.

The entire team did absolutely great! This “dry run” of going through half of the icefall inspires confidence so the next time we get up at 3AM we will all be ready and rearing to go through the entire icefall and occupy Camp One at 20,000 feet.

For now however, we are all happy and content after another great lunch with culinary masterpieces allowing us to fully recover. Next, a little tent time to rest these weary bones.

RMI Guide JJ Justman

Night exposure of the Khumbu Icefall. Photo: RMI Collection

On The Map

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19

Nicole and team. We are so thankful that you and the team are safe and praying for the missing climbers.Your family are all sending you strngth and love. We… read more

Posted by: ginny marasco on 4/18/2014 at 10:59 am

Nicole Lobiondo: Wonderful to hear you are all safe and staying confident. You are in great hands and praying for you all. You got this! Love, Nicole

read more

Posted by: Nicole Howard on 4/18/2014 at 5:50 am


Mt. Rainier: The Winter Seminar Tries for the Summit

Posted by: Brent Okita, Zeb Blais, Ben Liken, Robby Young | April 16, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,060'

We left Camp Muir this morning at 4: There was a cap over the summit from the outset of our climb but we were thankful the winds from yesterday evening had abated and hoped the cap would follow suit.45 a.m. in reasonable winds.  The team took to heart the lessons learned at yesterday’s climbing school and climbed strong on the upper mountain in deteriorating conditions.
 
I began the route finding effort up the Ingraham Direct but gave way to RMI Guide Zeb Blais as he led the team up to a break at 12,800’.  As we switchbacked our way up the mountain, we encountered increasing wind speeds and steadily decreasing visibility.  We made the smart and safe choice to call 13,400’ our high point for the day.  On our descent to Camp Muir, clouds would billow up from below causing white out conditions followed by periods of visibility.  This process repeated continually until we returned to Camp Muir.

We’re back at Camp Muir safe and sound.  We are looking forward to a low-key afternoon at camp with a siesta and some easy training on the schedule.

Signing off for now,
RMI Guide Brent Okita

The Mt. Rainier winter seminar's high point today. Photo: Robby Young Winter seminar training with avalanche transceivers. Photo: Brent Okita The winter seminar traversing the Cowlitz Glacier. Photo: Brent Okita
3

Zeb led the way for Mariana and I out of Camp Muir on June 20, 2010.  He got us up to Ingraham Glacier before returning with climbers.  Mariana and I… read more

Posted by: Josephine Johnson on 4/17/2014 at 8:58 pm

Thanks for keeping my guys safe and sound!  Think warm thoughts!  Hugs to Mike and Steve

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Posted by: cathy on 4/16/2014 at 6:59 pm


Mt. Everest: The Team Prepares for the Next Phase of the Expedition

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Dave Hahn, J.J. Justman, Mark Tucker | April 16, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 17,575'

Hello out there. Billy here checking in for the rest of the gang after another day deep in the Khumbu. Not much to report on another rest day here, other than the fact that the NCell tower began sporadically working today after nearly a ten-day outage. Our team was starting to go crazy… I mean it was like camping back in the 90’s where you were in a deep black hole.

Anyway, clear skies this morning meant more helicopters buzzing basecamp as a film production crew has been ferrying tons of equipment up valley. The rumor is that they’ll need more than fifty flights to get all of their gear in, we’re all looking forward to it! Regardless, we’re rested and ready for the next phase of our climb which involves an early wakeup dress rehearsal for tomorrow. It’s the last step before we begin our first true rotation up the mountain.

All for now, will check in again tomorrow after another romp through the icefall…

RMI Guide Billy Nugent

B3 Helicopter Leaving Everest BC Helipad. Photo: Dave Hahn

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16

Casey Grom - just checking in on you. Just read about the avalanche and of course I immediately thought of you. Be safe.
- Janel
Posted by: Janel… read more

Posted by: Janel Miller on 4/18/2014 at 6:04 am

Nicole & Team sending blessings and prayers up to the top of the world. Thinking of you all, all those who left families and friends behind. Praying you are all… read more

Posted by: Tatiana on 4/18/2014 at 4:08 am


Mt. Everest: Mark Tucker and the Climbing Team Summit Kalapathar

Posted by: Mark Tucker, Dave Hahn, J.J. Justman, Billy Nugent | April 15, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 17,575'

Summit… of Kalapathar!  The team took on Kalapathar, and had a great payday of views galore.  Nice weather for most of the day.  The Sherpa team also benefited from weather as they are nearly done with all the makings of Camp 2.  One comment from a Sherpa that it was very hot in the Khumbu Icefall. Seems ironic.

The climbing team is gearing up for a possible early morning test run in the Icefall.  We’ll keep you posted.

RMI Guide Mark Tucker

Mt. Everest from the Kalapathar summit. Photo: RMI Collection

On The Map

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5

Is everything ok?  Our news said there was an avalanche on Everest.  Please let us know if it didn’t
affect you.

 

read more

Posted by: Jean Kumler on 4/17/2014 at 8:11 pm

Hi Kara
  I’m back home.  Had a really nice time in LA.  Was 85 there—-came home to 35 in Cleve. Your trip is looking amazing and beautiful and… read more

Posted by: Jean Kumler on 4/17/2014 at 5:33 am


More Entries

Expedition Stats

Vinson Massif
11/19 - 12/11/2013
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/18 - 8/21/2013
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons
8/16 - 8/21/2013
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/19 - 8/22/2013
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/20 - 8/23/2013
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Paradise
8/18/ - 8/23/2013
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/21 - 8/24/2013
Summit
Kilimanjaro
8/17 - 8/31/2013
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/22 - 8/25/2013
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/23 - 8/26/2013
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/24 - 8/27/2013
10,080'
Four Day Summit Climb
8/25 - 8/28/2013
10,800'
Four Day Summit Climb
8/26 - 8/29/13
10,200'
Four Day Summit Climb
8/27 - 8/30/2013
11,200'
Four Day Summit Climb
8/28 - 8/31/2013
11,800'
Mt. Shuksan
8/25 - 8/30/2013
7,200'
Four Day Summit Climb
8/29 - 9/1/2013
11,200'
Mt. Shuksan Fisher Chimneys
8/30 - 9/2/2013
Summit
Mt. Shuksan Fisher Chimneys
8/30 - 9/1/13
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/30 - 9/2/2013
12,700'
Four Day Summit Climb
8/31 - 9/3/2013
12,300'
Four Day Summit Climb
9/1 - 9/4/2013
12,300'
Four Day Summit Climb
9/2 - 9/5/2013
10,080'
Four Day Summit Climb
9/3 - 9/6/2013
10,080'
Mt. Shuksan Sulphide Glacier
9/2 - 9/6/2013
Summit
Everest Base Camp Trek
10/28 - 11/21/2013
Reached Base Camp
Four Day Summit Climb
9/4 - 9/7/13
11,600'
Four Day Summit Climb
9/5 - 9/8/2013
12,900'
Mt. Elbrus - Northside
8/22 - 9/7/13
14,000'
Four Day Summit Climb
9/6 - 9/9/2013
12,300'
Kilimanjaro
9/2 - 9/16/2013
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
9/8 - 9/13/2013
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
9/11 - 9/14/2013
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
9/12 - 9/15/2013
Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
9/11 - 9/15/2013
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
9/13 - 9/16/2013
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
9/15 - 9/20/2013
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
9/18 - 9/21/2013
Summit
Kilimanjaro
9/14 - 9/28/2013
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
9/19 - 9/22/2013
12,300'
Five Day Summit Climb
9/18 - 9/22/2013
12,300'
Four Day Summit Climb
9/20 - 9/23/2013
8,000'
Fisher Chimneys
9/16 - 9/18/2013
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
9/22 - 9/27/2013
Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
9/25 - 9/29/2013
7,600'
Kilimanjaro
10/5 - 10/19/2013
Summit
Mexico's Volcanoes
10/19 - 10/27/2013
14,700' Ixtaccihuatl / 16,500' Orizaba
Ecuador Volcanoes
12/10 - 12/20/2013
Cayambe - Summit / Cotopaxi - Summit
Vinson Massif
12/1 - 12/23/2013
Summit
Aconcagua
12/9 - 12/29/2013
21,700'
Aconcagua
12/14 - 1/6/2014
Summit
Aconcagua
12/20 - 1/12/2014
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
1/5 - 1/10/2014
10,080'
Aconcagua
12/27 - 1/19/2014
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Ecuador
1/7 - 1/20/2014
Cayambe - Summit / Antisana - 18,500' / Cotopaxi - Summit
Mexico's Volcanoes
1/18 - 1/26/2014
Ixtaccihuatl - Summit / Orizaba - Summit
Aconcagua
1/10 - 2/2/2014
Summit
Aconcagua
1/3 - 1/26/2014
21,500'
Kilimanjaro
1/25 - 2/8/2014
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
2/9 - 2/14/2014
7,100'
Kilimanjaro
2/8 - 2/22/2014
Summit
Ecuador Volcanoes
2/11 - 2/21/2014
Cayambe - Summit / Cotopaxi - Summit
Aconcagua
2/2 - 2/25/2014
Summit
Mexico's Volcanoes
2/15 - 2/23/2014
Ixtaccihuatl - Summit / Orizaba - Summit
Kilimanjaro
2/10 - 2/21/2014
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Ecuador
2/14 - 2/26/2014
Illiniza Sur - Summit / Cotopaxi - Summit
Mexico's Volcanoes
3/1 - 3/9/2014
Ixtaccihuatl - Summit / Orizaba - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
3/9 - 3/14/2014
Summit
Everest Base Camp Trek - Island Peak
3/16 - 4/10/2014
Summit

Recent Images

  • Mt. Everest with a wind-swept plume. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Khumbu Icefall after the April 18th avalanche. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Last rest break on the mountain. Photo: Brent Okita
  • Group photo near Paradise. Photo: Brent Okita
  • The winter seminar training in tough conditions at Camp Muir. Photo: Brent Okita
  • Night exposure of the Khumbu Icefall. Photo: RMI Collection
  • The Mt. Rainier winter seminar's high point today. Photo: Robby Young
  • Winter seminar training with avalanche transceivers. Photo: Brent Okita
  • The winter seminar traversing the Cowlitz Glacier. Photo: Brent Okita
  • B3 Helicopter Leaving Everest BC Helipad. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Mt. Everest from the Kalapathar summit. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Taking a break on our way up the Muir Snowfield. Photo: Brent Okita
  • Mt. Rainier seminar ascending to Camp Muir. Photo: Brent Okita
  • Beautiful vast views on Mt. Rainier seminar. Photo: Brent Okita
  • View from above Everest Basecamp. Photo: Jake Norton
  • Everest Base Camp and the Lower Khumbu Icefall.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • Prayer flags below Pumori. Photo: Jeff Martin
  • View from Pumori C1. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Dave Hahn descending the Khumbu Icefall. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Join RMI for classes on how to prepare for Mt. Rainier at your local REI store!
  • Everest BC - Puja ceremony. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Raising the mast at a puja ceremony. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Puja lamas and drum. Photo: RMI Collection
  • RMI's Everest Base Camp at night. Photo: RMI Collection
  • The sun setting on the peaks surrounding Everest Base Camp.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • Kathmandu, Nepal.  Photo: Linden Mallory
  • Touring the Khumbu close to Everest BC. Photo: RMI Collection
  • The moon over Everest's West Shoulder and Base Camp. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Surrounding views from Everest BC. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Casey Grom's team back in Namche. Photo: Casey Grom