Mt. McKinley: Haugen’s Team Moves to 9,600’ Camp

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal, Katie Bono | June 16, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 9,600'

Sunday, June 16th, 2013

Happy Father’s Day to all of our dads from Summit Team 6!

We bit off another chunk of the mountain this morning ascending to 9,600 feet. Only 10,600 feet to go! We arrived at our new camp around mid morning. Our team is quickly becoming McKinley camp experts, so it did not take us very long to dig in camp. We had some extra daylight (oh yeah, it is always daylight), so we decided to dig a monster posh house. A posh house is our version of a cook tent. It is like a snow cave where the cooking and seating area is dug into the snow below ground level. The roof is a big top-like tent that is held up by a pole that goes from the apex to the floor of the snow pit. Now we have room for company.

The weather forecast looks stellar so we should be able to move up to 11k Camp tomorrow.

RMI Guide Mike Haugen and Summit Team 6

P.S. Lance says thank you to his wife and girls for the Father’s Day card!

An RMI team's posh tent. Photo: Chris Villar

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Mt. Rainier: Emmons Skills Seminar at Glacier Basin

Posted by: J.J. Justman, Levi Kepsel, Alex Barber, Bryan Hendrick | June 16, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier

The Expedition Skills Seminar – Emmons is soaking up the sun and setting up camp in Glacier Basin.  The team is doing really well and everyone is excited to be on the mountain.  There are clouds building so taking advantage of the sun is the number one priority for training this afternoon.

RMI Guide JJ Justman

An RMI Emmons team hiking out to the training area. Photo: RMI Collection

Mt. Rainier: June 16th Update

Posted by: Dan Windham | June 16, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb led by Dan Windham reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning! The team took advantage of the firm snow conditions offered by climbing in the wee morning hours and are making their way back through the clouds to sunny Camp Muir.  The team will descend to Paradise and return to Ashford later today.

We have a Five Day Summit Climb at Camp Muir, an Expedition Skills Seminar – Emmons beginning their time on the mountain.

Climbers at sunrise on Mt. Rainier. Photo: Linden Mallory
6

Happy Father’s Day from RMI!

Posted by: | June 16, 2013
Categories: *Guide News

Happy Father’s Day from RMI! Our fathers played an influential role in getting us involved in the outdoors and appreciating the experience of the mountains for many of us. Thanks to all of the mentors who inspired our climbing dreams and support our mountain adventures. 

Below is a compilation of photos of RMI climbers and guides climbing with their dads. Thank you to everyone for sharing your pictures with us!


RMI Climbers and Guides Fathers Day Photos

1

Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Travel the Fixed Lines to Washburn’s Thumb

Posted by: Jake Beren, Leon Davis, Josh Maggard | June 16, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

Saturday, June 15th, 2013
Big day here on Denali. A big congrats to Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens and crew for a job well done going to the top!  We didn’t lounge around ourselves and made an early bid for our cache at Washburn’s Thumb. The team handled the fixes lines very well and we made great time up to 16,400 feet under perfect climbing conditions. It was a great day to enjoy the views and we relaxed up high before hitting the sauna on our way down. It was HOT and we were sure glad to be on our way back to camp by the time the temperatures peaked.

Naps followed our work day and we are tentatively optimistic that we will be able to move higher tomorrow and get in position to put all the hard work and experience to the test in the next few days. Keep some fingers crossed for us friends, we’re gonna need some good weather for a few days.

Over and out.

RMI Guide Jake Beren

RMI Climbers Descending Above Washburn's Thumb. Photo: RMI Collection

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen’s Team Caches Supplies and Returns to Camp

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal, Katie Bono | June 15, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 7,800'

Saturday, June 15th, 2013
After another early start, we made our way up to 10,000 feet and cached some of the food, fuel, and gear that we will not need until later. We started walking uphill around 4 a.m. this morning because even though we are camping and traveling on ice and snow, it can be quite hot with the sun beating down and reflecting upon us. We returned to camp just after 11 a.m. Katie and Uchal made some delicious breakfast burritos before we all turned in for our afternoon naps. Don’t judge, we worked hard!

The plan for tomorrow is to pack up camp early and head towards our next spot at around 9,600 feet. The mountain is pretty quiet since there are not many teams flying on the mountain right now.

Everyone is happy and healthy. Yvonne, Peter wanted me to let you know he is especially happy and healthy!

RMI Guide Mike Haugen

P.S. Congratulations to Tyler Jones and team for their summit!

An RMI climbing team hauls sleds to Camp 1. Photo: RMI Collection

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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team on the Summit!

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens | June 15, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 20,320'

Saturday, June 15th, 2013
Today was a busy day at the roof of North America! Our team was first out of the gates from 17,200’ camp, with a warm, windless departure at 8:00am. The first stretch of the route above camp is also one of the most technical and time consuming; it’s called the “Autobahn” and takes a strong, committed team to single push across the steeply rising traverse to Denali Pass.

Our group crushed it, and we were enjoying the sun on the east side of the pass soon enough. The next few stretches went by relatively quickly, although nothing is lightning fast at 19,000’. By the time we reached the Football Field, a flat saddle just below the summit ridge, we were down to base layers and light gloves. Considering the fierce reputation that Denali has for arctic temperatures and raging wind, we consider ourselves incredibly lucky to have had a such an incredible day.

The last climb up Pig Hill was taxing our legs and our lungs, and just when folks had had enough we reached the final summit ridge. Forty minutes later, our team put the highest point of the continent under their crampons, amid much hugging and celebration.

The trip back down was uneventful, albeit hot. The sun roasted our tired crew all the way back to camp. But as soon as we got back, folks were out of boots and into tents, resting and relaxing as we brought hot water and heaping helpings of ramen with bacon and chicken. We’re ready for the long trip back to base camp, but that’s for another day. Right now, we’re savoring the day’s events and getting ready for some well earned sleep. Thanks again and we’ll check back in soon!

RMI Guide Tyler Jones

An RMI Guide breaks trail on the Autobahn. Photo: Lindsay Mann


RMI Guide Tyler Jones and the team from the Mount McKinley summit!

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Hey Pal, Nice message! Great to hear your summit stars!

read more

Posted by: Sharon on 6/15/2013 at 4:26 pm

ALL RIGHT!!!!
Way to go team!!! Congratulations!!!
Be safe going back down to High Camp - No running :-)

-Larry Seaton

read more

Posted by: Larry Seaton on 6/15/2013 at 4:13 pm


Mt. Rainier: Emmons Skills Seminar at School Today

Posted by: J.J. Justman, Levi Kepsel | June 15, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 5400'

RMI Guides JJ Justman and Levi Kepsel led their Emmons Seminar team through a mountaineering school at Paradise today.  It was a beautiful day as shown in JJ’s video of photos.


Mt. Rainier: June 15, 2013 Summit!

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Thomas Greene, Alex Barber, Geoff Schellens, Erik Nelson, Nick Hunt | June 15, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer and Geoff Schellens and the Four Day Summit Climb team reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at 7:28am this morning.  The team reported clear beautiful skies, steady winds of 10 mph, and cool temperatures. The group spent some time on the summit enjoying the views and are now en route back to Camp Muir.

Congrautations to today’s teams!

Mt. Rainier - RMI Photo Collection
7

Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Move Up to Camp 1

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal, Katie Bono | June 14, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 9,600'

Friday, June 14, 2013
Greetings from Summit Team 6! We bit off a huge chunk today with our move from Basecamp to Camp 1. We carried all of the food, fuel, equipment, and clothing that we will need for our expedition. Needless to say, we carried heavy! We made the trip up glacier in just under five hours.

Once in camp, we made a bombproof tent site sheltered from the wind.  It took us around an hour to get camp setup and organized. We took advantage of another beautifully warm and clear afternoon to take some siesta time. This was much needed since we woke up at 2:00 a.m. to pack up this morning.

We are just getting ready for a Dinty Moore and mashed potatoes dinner. I would imagine it will be another early evening since we have another early wake up time scheduled. Our plan is to carry gear up a bit higher and make a cache and then return to the same camp tomorrow.

RMI Guide Mike Haugen and McKinley Team 6

Mt. McKinley's Camp 1. Photo: RMI Collection

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Expedition Stats

Vinson Massif
1/1
Summit
Aconcagua Expedition
1/6 - 1/29
Summit
Cotopaxi Express Ascent
1/22 - 1/29
Summit
Aconcagua Expedition
1/29 - 2/21
Summit
Mexico’s Volcanoes
2/12 - 2/20
Summit
Kilimanjaro Climb
2/12 - 2/26/11
Summit
Orizaba Express Ascent
3/5 - 3/11
Summit
Everest BC Trek & Island Peak Climb
3/20 - 4/16
Summit
McKinley Expedition
5/3 - Mike Walter
Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/14 - 5/18
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/18 - 5/21
11,700'
Mt. Everest Expedition
5/21
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/19- 5/22
Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/18 - 5/22
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/20 - 5/23
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
5/23 - 5/27
11,200'
Four Day Summit Climb
5/25 - 5/28
12,100'
Five Day Summit Climb
5/25 - 5/29
11,300'
Mt. McKinley Expedition
5/10 - Billy Nugent
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/26 - 5/29
11,500'
Four Day Summit Climb
5/27 - 5/29
13,800'
Mt. McKinley Expedition
5/17 - Brent Okita
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
5/29 - 6/3
10,060'
Four Day Summit Climb
6/1 - 6/4
Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
6/1 - 6/5
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/2 - 6-5
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/3 - 6/6
Summit
Liberty Ridge Climb
6/5 - 6/10
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
6/5 - 6/10
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/8 - 6/11
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/9 - 6/12
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/10 - 6/13
11,200'
Five Day Summit Climb
6/9 - 6/13
11,200'
Four Day Summit Climb
6/11 - 6/14
12,000'
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz
6/10 - 6/15
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz
6/10 - 6/15
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/12 - 6/15
Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
6/11 - 6/15
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/13 - 6/16
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons
6/12 - 6/17
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/14 - 6/17
Summit
Mt. McKinley Expedition
May 31 - Tyler Jones
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/15 - 6/18
12,300'
Four Day Summit Climb
6/16 - 6/19
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/17 - 6/20
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/18 - 6/21
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/19 - 6/22
Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
6/18 - 6/22
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/20 - 6/23
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz
6/19 - 6/24
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/21 - 6/24
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/22 - 6/25
12,500'
Four Day Summit Climb
6/23 - 6/26
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/24 - 6/27
Summit
Mt. McKinley Expedition
6/7 - Jake Beren
17,000'
Five Day Summit Climb
6/24 - 6/28
12,300'
Four Day Summit Climb
6/25 - 6/28
12,300'
Four Day Summit Climb
6/26 - 6/29
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons
6/25 - 6/30
Summit
Ecuador Volcanoes
6/21 - 7/1
15,300' / Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/27 - 6/30
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/28 - 7/1
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/29 - 7/2
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/30 - 7/3
Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
6/30 - 7/4
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/1 - 7/4
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz
7/1 - 7/6
Summit
Mt. McKinley Expedition
6/14 - Mike Haugen
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/2 - 7/5
Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
7/2 - 7/6
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/3 - 7/6
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/4 - 7/7
Summit
Mt. McKinley Expedition
6/21 - Linden Mallory
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/5 - 7/8
11,600'
Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons
7/3 - 7/8
Summit
Cotopaxi Express
7/2 - 7/10
18,000'
Four Day Summit Climb
7/06 - 7/09
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/7 - 7/10
Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
7/7 - 7/11
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/8 - 7/11
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/9 -7/12
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons
7/8 - 7/13
12,000'
Four Day Summit Climb
7/10 - 7/13
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/11 - 7/14
Summit
Five Day Kautz Climb
7/11 - 7/15
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/12 - 7/15
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/13 - 7/16
12,300'
Mt. McKinley Expedition
6/27 - Dave Hahn
16,200'
Four Day Summit Climb
7/14 - 7/17
13,200'
Four Day Summit Climb
7/15 - 7/18
11,800'
Four Day Summit Climb
7/16 - 7/19
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/17 - 7/20
Summit
Five Day Emmons Glacier Climb
7/17-7/21
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Paradise
7/16 - 7/21
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/18 - 7/21
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/19 - 7/22
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/20 - 7/23
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/21 - 7/24
Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
7/21 - 7/25
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/22 - 7/25
13,750'
Four Day Summit Climb
7/23 - 7/26
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/24 - 7/27
Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
7/23 - 7/27
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/25 - 7/28
Summit
North Cascades - Forbidden Peak
7/25 - 7/28
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons
7/24 - 7/29
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/26 - 7/29
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/27 - 7/30
Summit
Kilimanjaro
7/23 - 8/6
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/28 - 7/31
Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
7/28 - 8/1
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/29 - 8/1
Summit
Ecuador Volcanoes
7/23 - 8/2
Summit / Summit
Kilimanjaro
7/25 - 8/8
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/30 - 8/2
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons
7/29 - 8/3
Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
7/30 - 8/3
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/31 - 8/3
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/1 - 8/4
Summit
North Cascades - Mt. Shuksan
8/1 - 8/4
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/2 - 8/5
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz
7/31 - 8/5
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/3 - 8/6
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/4 - 8/7
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/5 - 8/8
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/6 - 8/9
Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
8/5 - 8/9
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/7 - 8/10
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/8 - 8/11
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Paradise
8/7 - 8/12
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/9 - 8/12
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/10 - 8/13
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/11 - 8/14
Summit
Kilimanjaro
8/6 - 8/20
Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
8/11 - 8/15
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/12 - 8/15
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/13 - 8/16
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz
8/12 - 8/17
Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
8/13 - 8/17
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/14 - 8/17
Summit
North Cascades - Mt. Shuksan
8/15 - 8/18
Summit
Five Day Emmons Glacier Climb
8/15 - 8/19
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/15 - 8/18
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/16 - 8/19
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/17 - 8/20
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/18 - 8/21
Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
8/18 - 8/22
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/19 - 8/22
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/20 - 8/23
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons
8/19 - 8/24
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/21 - 8/24
Summit
North Cascades - Mt. Shuksan
8/22 - 8/25
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/22 - 8/25
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/23 - 8/26
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/24 - 8/27
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/25 - 8/28
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/26 - 8/29
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/27 - 8/30
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/28 - 8/31
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/29 - 9/1
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/30 - 9/2
12,100'
Four Day Summit Climb
8/31 - 9/3
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
9/1 - 9/4
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
9/2 - 9/5
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
9/3 - 9/6
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
9/4 - 9/7
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
9/5 - 9/8
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
9/6 - 9/9
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
9/7 - 9/10
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
9/8 - 9/11
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
9/9 - 9/12
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
9/11 - 9/16
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
9/14 - 9/17
Summit
Kilimanjaro
9/10 - 9/24/2011
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
9/15 - 9/18
12,000'
Five Day Summit Climb
9/14 - 9/18
13,500'
Four Day Summit Climb
9/16 - 9/19
11,300'
North Cascades: Fishers Chimney
9/17 - 9/20
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
9/18 - 9/23
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
9/21 - 9/24
10,060
Four Day Summit Climb
9/22 - 9/25
10,060'
Five Day Summit Climb
9/21 - 9/25
10,060'
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
9/26 - 9/30/2011
10,500'
Vinson Massif Expedition
11/13 - 12/4/2011
Summit
Ecuador’s Volcanoes
11/29 - 12/9/2011
Cayambe - Summit/ Cotopaxi - Summit
Vinson Massif Expedition
11/30 - 12/21/2011
Summit
Cotopaxi Express
12/10 - 12/18/2011
Summit
Aconcagua
12/12 - 1/4/2012
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
1/8 - 1/13/2012
13,000'
Ecuador’s Volcanoes
1/10 - 1/20/2012
Cayambe - Summit/ Cotopaxi - Summit
Aconcagua Expedition
1/5 - 1/28/2012
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
2/5- 2/10/2012
10,060'
Aconcagua Expedition
1/30 - 2/22/2012
Summit
Kilimanjaro Climb
2/11 - 2/25/2012
Summit
Mexico’s Volcanoes
2/11 - 2/19/2012
Ixtaccihuatl - 14,750'/ Orizaba - Summit
Mexico’s Volcanoes
03/03 - 03/11/2012
Summit/ Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
3/11 - 3/16/2012
7,200'
Everest BC Trek & Island Peak Climb
3/12 - 4/2/2012
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
4/8 - 4/13/2012
11,200'
Everest Base Camp Trek
3/12 - 4/2/2012
17, 575

Recent Images

  • Looking down to 14,000' Camp on Denali - RMI Photo Collection
  • Looking Down on Camp Schurmann RMI Photo Collection
  • An RMI team descending from the summit. Photo: Seth Waterfall
  • The view from the top of Mt. McKinley. Photo: RMI Collection
  • An RMI Team camped at 11,000' on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • Mt. Rainier's Emmons Glacier. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Ascending the Disappoint Cleaver Route on Mt. Rainier. Photo: Jason Thompson
  • RMI Climbers approach High Camp on the Vinson Massif, Antarctica.
  • An RMI Team camped at 11,200' on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • A view up the fixed lines. Photo: Katy Reid
  • An RMI team's posh tent. Photo: Chris Villar
  • An RMI Emmons team hiking out to the training area. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Climbers at sunrise on Mt. Rainier. Photo: Linden Mallory
  • RMI Climbers Descending Above Washburn's Thumb. Photo: RMI Collection
  • An RMI climbing team hauls sleds to Camp 1. Photo: RMI Collection
  • An RMI Guide breaks trail on the Autobahn. Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • Mt. Rainier - RMI Photo Collection
  • Mt. McKinley's Camp 1. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Climbers on the ridge to 17,200' Denali Camp. Photo: RMI Collection
  • View from the Edge of the World, outside of 14,200' Camp. Photo: Lindsay Mann
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