Entries From McKinley W. Buttress 6-5-12

Mt. McKinley: Jake Beren and Team Arrive in Talkeetna

Posted by: Jake Beren, Elias de Andres Martos | June 06, 2012
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 348'

Greetings from Talkeetna AK! 

Our team made it in last night/early this morning with all gear accounted for and we enjoyed a good night’s rest in Talkeetna. This morning it was business as usual, big breakfasts at the Roadhouse, a NPS orientation and a lot of sorting gear in the K2 hangar. Now we are checking tents, stoves and group gear before a big feast tonight. With any luck we will fly out tomorrow morning.

Til then,
RMI Guide Jake Beren

The team rigging tents in Talkeetna.  Photo: Jake Beren
12

Ciao Eric,  Thinking of you and praying for good weather and a safe trip. We are very proud of you and all the hard work it took to get you… read more

Posted by: Tom and Kathy Schafer on 6/16/2012 at 10:15 pm

Wow-  thats impressive progress.  Also - potluck?  I thought this was supposed to be hard!  You should be relaying stories of extreme hardship and grit!
You guys are… read more

Posted by: AK on 6/12/2012 at 6:03 pm


Mt.McKinley: Beren and team fly onto Kahiltna Glacier

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Jake Beren | June 07, 2012
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 7,300'

It doesn’t always happen like this up here, but when you can fly out of Talkeetna at 9 am, just like you planned, it is a real sweet start to a trip. We landed on a warm glacier and spent the day settling into our new pace on the mountain. Building camp, rigging sleds, reviewing some techniques and most importantly checking out the views. It is stunning here and perfect weather for starting this adventure. If it holds we will wake up and head towards 7,800’ camp at the base of Ski Hill tomorrow, testing our new knowledge and taking our first literal steps.

Til then,
RMI Guides Jake Beren, Elias de Andres Martos, Thomas Greene and the gang.

On The Map

1

Sounds like everyone had a great day. I hope the weather continues to be perfect for your trek.

read more

Posted by: Laura Crumley Rito on 6/7/2012 at 7:54 pm


Mt. McKinley: Beren and Team Move to 7,800’

Posted by: Jake Beren, Elias de Andres Martos | June 08, 2012
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 7,800'

When we woke early this morning we weren’t sure what the day had in store for us. The cloud deck dropped during breakfast and no one could really tell if it was raining or snowing. We returned to the tents to wait for a trend to emerge and in about an hour made the call to try to leave basecamp for higher pastures. We had perfect conditions to make our way to the base of Ski Hill and set up camp at the confluence of the Main and Northeast Forks of the Kahiltna Glaciers. As soon as camp was buffed out, it started to snow and we are enjoying a little siesta before dinner.

If the weather is cooperative we will move higher tomorrow to get within striking distance of 11 Camp and the upper mountain.

Hope all is well down South!

RMI Guide Jake Beren

7,800 foot camp on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Collection Ascending Ski Hill on the Lower Kahiltna Glacier, Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Collection

On The Map

7

Great to have the opportunity to virtually follow your tour. To Christel: Aunt ever I am so proud you are doing this, one day we might tackle the Matterhorn together… read more

Posted by: Wenke Stalling on 6/10/2012 at 1:07 am

Bob~Kristi made it to Rwanda, after 27 hours!! Now you have to make it to the top!
Kathy

read more

Posted by: Kathy Spinks on 6/9/2012 at 12:37 pm


MT. McKinley: Beren and Team Move to 9,500’

Posted by: Jake Beren, Elias de Andres Martos | June 10, 2012
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 9,500'

Do two times constitute a trend?  Probably not, but today did share a few similarities with yesterday. We woke to a little squirrelly weather with a few inches of snow on the tents and it was unclear whether heading up was a good idea or not. We watched the skies and eventually decided to move. As we climbed into the whiteout above camp and onto Ski Hill proper, the snow stopped and we enjoyed pockets of visibility. It was downright hot as we pulled into camp with an excellent down glacier view. We were able to go down to baselayers as we built camp and as soon as we finished setting up shop it began to snow. Now we are enjoying a hot beverage before some Tortellini a la Thomas for dinner. Tomorrow we’ll see what happens in the sky and hopefully move to 11 camp.

RMI Guide Jake Beren

Ascending Ski Hill on Mt. McKinley toward 9,500 ft camp.  Photo: RMI Collection

On The Map

5

To Christel: liebste Grüße und eine nächtlich wärmende, feste Umarmung, Tropf

read more

Posted by: Susann on 6/10/2012 at 11:35 am

Message for Bob…Could not be prouder of you brother!

read more

Posted by: John Spinks on 6/10/2012 at 10:06 am


Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Move to 11,000’

Posted by: Jake Beren, Elias de Andres Martos | June 10, 2012
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

A big aloha from 11 Camp

We woke to our first clear morning of the trip, with brightly colored lenticular clouds stacked over Mount Forraker. It was cold and clear in our neck of the woods and we traveled well on our way to our cache at 10,000 feet. With slightly lighter loads we dispatched the final hill into camp and moved right in to camp. Now we rest during the heat of the day and recover after a great, but tough day.

Tomorrow, if the weather permits we will retrieve our cache and ready ourselves for life higher up.

Take care everyone,
RMI Guides Jake Beren, Elias de Andres Martos, Thomas Greene and Team

On The Map

3

Message for tony crumley David called made it to his new afghan camp. Em has been admitted to hosp. Keep climbing we are proud of uou!  Love you

read more

Posted by: Jill crumley on 6/11/2012 at 12:00 pm

Bob, glad to hear the progress you and the team are making, keep it up.  My prayers and thoughts are continually with you.

John

read more

Posted by: John Spinks on 6/11/2012 at 7:57 am


Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Make Back Carry

Posted by: Jake Beren | June 11, 2012
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

We awoke at dawn. Not all that impressive because dawn is at least 8 hours a day this time of year. Once awake we had a beautiful cruise down to our cache at the corner of the Kahiltna Glacier with great visibility in the early morning light. We loaded our packs and reveled in the absence of the sleds/anchors and even picked up the pace a bit to help with our acclimatization. Back at camp it was second breakfast, a nap and a bit of technical review before dinner. Tomorrow, if the mountain allows, we will carry towards 14 camp and return to 11,200 feet to recover.

That’s all from here, the team is doing great and looking to take it higher tomorrow!

RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

4

Way to go Eric! We are all following along with your journey here. Your two nephews and goddaughter wish you good luck and are anxiously awaiting your return. Noah and… read more

Posted by: Zach Schafer on 6/12/2012 at 7:24 am

Bob, keep it up bro, I know you can do it, one step at a time.  You have a great team and the best of guides…to the top!

read more

Posted by: John Spinks on 6/12/2012 at 4:56 am


Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Rest at 11,000’

Posted by: Jake Beren, Elias de Andres Martos | June 12, 2012
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

Throughout the night the clouds surrounding camp started to produce snow and dropped over a foot around our tents. Plans are always in flux up here and our carry higher on the mountain has been postponed. The crew is unfazed, merrily digging out our home and relaxing with a big salmon and bagel breakfast. Another round of digging and a bit of rest before our upcoming potluck lunch. Down days can be productive, storing up strength for higher up on Denali and fine tuning the essential camp skills required for the future. That’s all for now, cross your fingers for a break in the weather and we’ll check in later.

RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

14

Yo Eric & Elias!  Keep up the good work.  We’re pulling for you!  Can’t wait to see the summit pictures!  Wayne, Ian & Zach

read more

Posted by: Wayne on 6/14/2012 at 4:17 am

Ross and K.  Hopefully everything is working out in the tent.  Fate kept me here for this one.  I cant wait to hear the stories.  Remember to keep your water… read more

Posted by: dave kolar on 6/13/2012 at 7:06 pm


Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Break Trail to Cache Supplies

Posted by: Jake Beren, Elias de Andres Martos | June 14, 2012
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

After our rest day yesterday, we were certainly ready to bust a move this morning. Clear and cold conditions soon gave way to snow flurries and minimal visibility. We made ready, grabbed another cup of coffee and caught enough of a lull to try to carry loads higher on the mountain. Our plan was entirely dependent on conditions encountered on each stretch and despite being the first trailbreakers since the storm, we were able to kick a proud track through several feet of new snow up to Windy Corner and make our cache. Our team opened the route up in good style and if favored by workable weather will try to push it up to 14 Camp tomorrow. Everyone is doing great and will surely enjoy a good night’s sleep after a solid day in the mountains. Thanks also for the messages to the team!  Keep ‘em coming! 

RMI Guide Jake Beren

An RMI Team Climbing Towards Windy Corner

On The Map

7

Jake,  congrats to you and the team.  Sounds like you are all doing well, with a great leader.  Big Hug, Hello and best wishes to Karwande!!!  Keep those fingers warm… read more

Posted by: courtney on 6/14/2012 at 7:07 pm

¡Hola, equipo! Glad to hear things are going well and moving upwards.

Today I completed a successful mission to deliver homemade cookie to the folks at Muir (and got to… read more

Posted by: Bridget on 6/14/2012 at 6:31 pm


Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Move Into 14K Camp

Posted by: Jake Beren, Elias de Andres Martos | June 14, 2012
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

Waking to perfect conditions, clear and near windless, we decided to saddle up and move on up to Genet Basin and make a new home at 14,000 feet. Our hard work yesterday really paid off, leaving us with a perfect trail to camp. It was even downright hot as we pulled into camp and we found a great camp left to us by our friends now living at 17,000 camp. Thanks.

It was still tough, but our team held together well and turned in early for some much needed rest. Tomorrow we will most likely retrieve our cache and spend the afternoon relaxing and preparing for the fixed lines higher up. Cross your fingers for some high pressure. A week would be plenty.

RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

7

All the best for the head wall and beyond. Let us know that you’re all doing fine please. 

read more

Posted by: AK on 6/16/2012 at 2:53 pm

Great climbing everyone, keep it up.  Bob, the summit is around the corner, stay strong!  Everything good at home.

read more

Posted by: John Spinks on 6/15/2012 at 7:11 pm


Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Back Carry to 14K Camp

Posted by: Jake Beren, Elias de Andres Martos | June 15, 2012
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

Climbing consistently gives you opportunities to improve, especially on Denali. A summit day is possible only after weeks of getting in position. During those weeks we are dedicating ourselves to improving all aspects of our game.

This morning we took the lessons of yesterday’s approach to go pick up our cache at Windy Corner. Getting ready in the cold morning will pay off as we move higher. The crew did well on the back carry and the little bobbles in our rigging were addressed when we got back with everyone taking a little time to do some homework dialing in their cold weather systems.

Tomorrow we will rest here at 14,000’, reviewing fixed lines, running belays and if we have some visibility, taking a short cruise to THE EDGE OF THE WORLD for some views. Then it all depends on the weather, but the team is feeling great.

RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

7

Happy Fathers Day Jim!  Hope you are having a fun adventure.  Halsey: sunscreen!!! Give each other a hug for us.  Love Anne and Jack

read more

Posted by: Anne on 6/16/2012 at 10:36 pm

Ross and K,

Keep plugging away! Take some pics tomorrow at the edge of the world.  Been thinking of you guys today, hope all is well with tent life and… read more

Posted by: dave kolar on 6/16/2012 at 7:36 pm


More Entries