Entries By andres marin

Alaska Expedition Seminar: Marin & Team Holding Strong at Basecamp

Posted by: Andres Marin, Garrett Stevens, Katie Bono | May 18, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 7,300'

It is fascinating how much the weather can test us.  One more day of a strong storm kept us in camp, but we find things to do to keep ourselves busy.

Here is how the day went for us:
Woke up with about a foot of new snow, had to do some maintenance in camp before any items got buried.  Then time to eat breakfast.  Lisa, Kahiltna Basecamp Manager, rallied everybody in basecamp to stomp the runway, then we did a class in avalanche decision making and transceiver and probing work.  After dinner, Akira finished snow blocks to make an arch that marks the entrance of our bathroom.  Impressive work!!!  Now it is time for us to go sleep.

The strong front that is passing should start weakening tomorrow.  High hopes for that.

We all are staying happy and learning from the mountain.

Living the dream!!!!

RMI Guide Andres Marin

An RMI camp during an Alaska storm. Photo: RMI Collection

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Alaska Expedition Seminar: Marin & Team Train Close to Camp

Posted by: Andres Marin, Garrett Stevens, Katie Bono | May 17, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 7,300'

As in all expeditions weather always play a big part.  Today we experienced a pretty big storm that will be on the radar for the next three days.  The forecast is calling for 4 feet of total snow fall with winds up to 40 mph.

We spent the day learning basic knots and learning to take care of camp during a storm.  The weather was a big part of today’s lesson.  It has snowed about a foot and is still snowing as I’m sending this dispatch.

We all are staying busy and dry and doing well.  We’ll see what happens over night.  Will keep you posted.

RMI Guide Andres Marin

 

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Alaska Expedition Seminar: Marin & Team’s Snow School on the Glacier

Posted by: Andres Marin, Garrett Stevens, Katie Bono | May 16, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 7,300'

Today we woke up with a deep blue sky and a 360-degree view.  The team slept well for our first night on the glacier.  After some coffee and breakfast, we all had the experience to try the CMCs which is one of the biggest novelties of the trip.

Once we were well fueled and ready to head out of camp, we traveled over to a slope close to camp and completed our snow school.  Lots of learning and reviewing made for a fun day on the glacier.

All and all a great day!

RMI Guide Andres Marin

Views around Kahiltna Basecamp, Alaska. Photo: Billy Nugent

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Alaska Expedition Seminar: Andres and Team Fly on to Glacier

Posted by: Andres Marin, Katie Bono, Garrett Stevens | May 15, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 7,300'

We had the to opportunity to fly today, and get established in base camp. The flight over the Alaska Range was incredible, the group was totally stunned by the views. We built our camp and ate some delicious quesadillas that Garrett Stevens made. Then called it for the day. It is really cool at base camp right now. Time to rest and get ready for a great day tomorrow.

All best,

RMI Guide Andres Marin & The Expedition Seminar Team.

The RMI Alaska Expedition Seminar Team Read to Fly - Photo: Andres Marin

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Alaska Expedition Seminar: Marin & Team Prepare for Takeoff

Posted by: Andres Marin, Garrett Stevens, Katie Bono | May 14, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley

Yesterday we all met at the Anchorage Airport, drove to Wasilla and bought some food before reaching our final destination of the day, Talkeetna.  Once we arrived and settled in, the group had the opportunity to check out Talkeetna and enjoy their great food.

Today we have a super busy day ahead of us.  Breakfast, check in with the National Park Service, pack our gear, and if weather permits, fly onto the Kahiltna Glacier and set up camp. Sounds simple but believe me it is a lot!  We are all very excited for the flight to the glacier.  In my opinion, it is one of the many highlights of climbing in the Alaska Range.

We will be checking in later on.

All best,
RMI Guide Andres Marin and the Alaska Expedition Seminar

Welcome to Talkeetna! Photo: RMI Collection

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Alaska Alpine Seminar: Marin & Team Complete Seminar and Head for Home

Posted by: Andres Marin, Kel Rossiter, Levi Kepsel | May 10, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley

After our beautiful bluebird day on Mount Frances we went to bed satisfied with our climbing. We spent our last full day dialing in rescue techniques and ice climbing in crevasses.

Yesterday we woke up early for our flight back to Talkeetna and enjoyed a celebratory toast.  A sweet success!  Everybody left for home with lots of knowledge on modern climbing techniques and as more experienced climbers.

Thank you very much team for the great times in the Alaska Range and I’m already looking forward to next year’s Alpine Seminar.

All best,
RMI Guide Andres Marin

Sunset in Talkeetna. Photo: Linden Mallory

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Alaska Alpine Seminar: Marin & Team Attempt the Summit of Mt. Francis

Posted by: Andres Marin, Kel Rossiter, Levi Kepsel | May 08, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 7,300'

Our attempt on Mt. Francis was great.

We were making good time up the southeast ridge until conditions got really icy.  We climbed a pitch of ice and then we made a group decision of turning back down.

The views, as well as the learning experience, were incredible.  Now we are all back in camp enjoying a hot cup of tea.
 
Today we did our last seminar review and will be starting to pack for tomorrow’s flight back to Talkeetna.

Looking forward to a shower and a big salad.

RMI Guide Andres Marin

Upward on Mt. Francis. Photo: Kel Rossiter Bringing up the belay on Mt. Francis. Photo: Kel Rossiter East Ridge on Mt. Francis. Photo: Kel Rossiter

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Alaska Alpine Seminar: The Team Puts Their Skills to the Test

Posted by: Andres Marin, Kel Rossiter, Levi Kepsel | May 07, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 7,300'

Today we put what we’ve learned the last few days into action.  We headed to a crevasse and practiced our rescue techniques using the complete system.

Going down in the crevasse was an incredible experience for everyone.  It was written all over the team’s faces in the great photos and big smiles that made this day just fantastic.

We are going to bed early and hoping for good weather for our summit attempt to the East ridge of Mt. Francis.

Wish us luck.

All best,
RMI Guide Andres Marin

An RMI Team practices crevasse rescue. Photo: Chris Villar

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Alaska Alpine Seminar: The Team Summits Radio Tower!

Posted by: Andres Marin, Kel Rossiter, Levi Kepsel | May 06, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley

This place just keeps getting better and better.  Today we climbed Radio Tower!!!  The weather was incredible and the views just fantastic.

We climbed this peak via the southside and gained the east ridge to the top.  The entire group had the chance to learn a lot and had a great time while climbing our first summit.

After a long day we are eating dinner and planning a day of ice climbing and crevasse rescue that we have in front of us.

All best, 
RMI Guide Andres Marin and the Alaska Alpine Seminar

An RMI team on the Summit Ridge of Radio Tower. Photo: Chris Villar

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Alaska Alpine Seminar: Marin & Team Practice Mountaineering Skills from Basecamp

Posted by: Andres Marin, Kel Rossiter, Levi Kepsel | May 05, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 7,300'

Today we woke up with a blue skies and great temperatures, way different than what the weather was predicting.

Quickly we got ready and went for a hike to the Southeast Fork. Learning about glacier travel and the different terrain features with these incredible views is spectacular.  What an environment to learn in!  While at the glacier we checked our approach for Radio Tower, which we are hoping to climb tomorrow.

All and all one more great day in a beautiful place.

Everybody in the group sends a big hello, hugs and kisses to friends and family.

All the best,
RMI Guide Andres Marin and the Alaska Alpine Seminar

Views from Kahiltna Basecamp, Alaska. Photo: Jason Thompson

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