Entries By chase nelson

Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Take a Rest Day at 11,000’

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Levi Kepsel, Chase Nelson | June 18, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

June 17, 2014 - 11:00 pm PT

A rest day on Mt. McKinley! And well earned. The weather has been kinda funky; we woke this morning to around a foot of new snow but things steadily improved over the course of the day. Eventually, the sun broke and we enjoyed some turbo-tanning for much of the afternoon. But now the flurries are back and the flow has shifted from southeast to westerly. We briefly got a view of the tundra over Kahiltna Pass with a wall of large cumulus clouds headed our way. We are now in those clouds but they haven’t hit with much wind so camp is still pretty pleasant. The gang is packing up for tomorrow’s forward carry where we are hoping to get a cache in around Windy Corner, setting us up for a move to 14,000’ if the weather cooperates.

We will talk to you later,

RMI Guide Billy Nugent

An RMI Team camped at 11,000ft on Mt. McKinley, Alaska.  Photo: RMI Collection

On The Map

Sign Up For Mount McKinley 2014 Email Alerts

4

Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Move to 11,000’ Camp

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Levi Kepsel, Chase Nelson | June 16, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

June 15, 2014 - 10:31 pm PT

Greetings from Camp 3 at 11,000’... We enjoyed a sunny and warm wake up today while we packed for a quick move up to 11,000 ft on Mt. McKinley. After a few hours on the trail in mostly whiteout conditions we arrived and set to work digging and building platforms and walls to protect our tents and posh (dining tent). The weather has been coming in and out all day with sun breaks punctuating a generally cloudy day. It’s actually begun snowing moderately as I write this… Anyway, we left a sizable cache of food and fuel buried down at 9,600’ that we hope to retrieve tomorrow morning after sleeping in and enjoying a more substantial breakfast. Breaking camp every morning for the last 3 days has meant quickie breakfasts like oatmeal or granola. We also got to enjoy a visit with some of our comrades from higher on the mountain as they came through camp. Good vibes all around.

All for now,

RMI Guide Billy Nugent

Camp life at 11,000 ft on Mt. McKinley, Alaska.  Photo: Rob Lindner

On The Map

Sign Up For Mount McKinley 2014 Email Alerts

3

Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Grooving on in to 9,600’

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Levi Kepsel, Chase Nelson | June 15, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 9,600'

June 14, 2014 - 10:44 pm PT

Checking in from 9,600’! All is well up here, despite a very hot day cooking in the microwave. A breezy and chilly morning made for a brisk break of camp this morning but it eventually gave way to stillness and a low level cloud clinging to the glacier. With full humidity and scorching temperatures we poured sweat despite stripping down to just our base layers. By the end of the day, a nice breeze greeted us as we neared Kahiltna Pass and put in our camp. We enjoyed the evening with a good meal outside and are all crawled in waiting for tomorrow and our planned move up to 11,000’.

More as the situation develops,

RMI Guide Billy Nugent

An RMI team at the 9,600' Camp on Mt. McKinley. Photo: John Lucia

On The Map

Sign Up For Mount McKinley 2014 Email Alerts

6

Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Reach Camp 1

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Levi Kepsel, Chase Nelson | June 13, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 7,800'

June 13, 2014 - 9:40 pm PT

Welcome! To the first of many blog installments for the June 10, 2014, RMI expedition to Denali. Our team first met a couple days ago in Anchorage and enjoyed a cramped van ride up to Talkeetna. There, we spent the following day packing and prepping for our bush flight in the midst of a shaky weather forecast. We went to bed on Wednesday night locked and loaded with our fingers crossed for blue skies in the a.m… As luck would have it our good friends at K2 Aviation were able to drop us off at Kahiltna Basecamp in a pair of Otter ski planes first thing in the morning! After building and moving in to our camp we spent the rest of the day making our final preparations for the trip.

Today was the first real day of the expedition. We woke early and broke camp and packed up for our single-carry to Camp 1 at 7,800’. A single-carry means we are loaded down with all of the equipment, food, and fuel to sustain our expedition for 22 days… It rounds out to about 100lbs of gear per climber split between a sled and backpack. We had a couple of occasional breaks of clear skies but spent most of the day sheltered from the blazing sun by a thin layer of clouds and light snow flurries. While it might sound inclement, it actually kept temperatures from getting too warm and made for nice walking. We are all settled in at 7,800’ for the night and are hoping to continue up tomorrow with another single-carry to 9,600’ and Camp 2.

We’ll check in again and let ya’ll know how it went…

RMI Guide Billy Nugent

The Mt. McKinley Expedition starting June 10th, 2014, led by Billy Nugent ready to fly! An RMI climbing team hauls sleds to Mt. McKinley's Camp 1. Photo: RMI Collection

On The Map

Sign Up For Mount McKinley 2014 Email Alerts

7

Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Continue to Wait For Better Weather

Posted by: Jake Beren, Leon Davis, Chase Nelson | June 11, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 7,800'

June 10, 2014 - 10:33 pm PT

Can you guess where we are?  Yes, 7,800’ camp on Mt. McKinley. The snows continue to blow up glacier and keep us from advancing higher on the mountain. The team is doing a fantastic job staying dug out and keeping spirits high. We have plenty of food and fuel, we just need to the weather to allow us to go a little higher. It will and all we need is a little patience. Wish us luck.

RMI Guide Jake Beren

Camped at 7,800ft on Mt. McKinley, Alaska.  Photo: Lindsay Mann

On The Map

Sign Up For Mount McKinley 2014 Email Alerts

9

Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir Reaches Summit

Posted by: Casey Grom, Chase Nelson, Mark Falender, Katrina Bloemsma | June 05, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,410'

The Expedition Skill Seminar - Muir reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning at 7:25 am PT.  RMI Guide Casey Grom reported a beautiful day with clear skies, light winds and cool temperatures. 

The team will descend to Camp Muir (10,060’) where they will spend their final night on the mountain and conclude their training tomorrow with a final descent to Paradise.

Congratulations to today’s Seminar team!

The RMI Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir June 1 - 6 team on the summit of Mt. Rainier June 5th.  Photo: Casey Grom
2

Mt. Rainier: May 31st Summit!

Posted by: Katrina Bloemsma, Casey Grom, Alex Barber, Chase Nelson | May 31, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Casey Grom reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at about 7:35am PT.  The team reported clear skies and calm climbing conditions.  The team will spend some time on the Summit before starting their descent to Camp Muir.

Congratulations to today’s team!

The Summit Crater on Mt. Rainier. RMI Photo Collection
4

Mt. Rainier: May 18th Teams Summit!

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Brent Okita, Leah Fisher, Sean Collon, Bridget Belliveau, Chase Nelson | May 18, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

The Five Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Adam Knoff reached the summit of Mt. Rainier yesterday afternoon in cold and windy conditions.  The team descended back to Camp Muir for the night.  The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Brent Okita reached the summit this morning and reports blue skies on top with a cap beginning to form.  Both teams will be back in Ashford later today.

The Four Day Summit Climb May 15 - 18, 2014 nears the summit of Mt. Rainier.  Photo: Brent Okita The view from Disappointment Cleaver on May 18, 2014.  Photo: Brent Okita The Four Day Summit Climb May 15 - 18, 2014 makes their summit attempt.  Photo: Brent Okita
2

Mt. Rainier: May 14th Summit!

Posted by: Brent Okita, Tyler Jones, Chase Nelson, Mike King, Nick Hunt, Ben Liken | May 14, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

Camp Muir reported that RMI Guides Brent Okita, Tyler Jones and the Five Day Summit Climb Team reached the Summit of Mt. Rainier at about 7am this morning.  The team reported clear skies and absolutely beautiful climb weather.  The team has started their descent and are en route to Camp Muir. We expect them back to RMI Base Camp this afternoon.

This is the First Summit of the our 2014 summer season! Congratulations Teams!

Team on the Crater Rim. Photo: Brent Okita Team on Summit. Photo: Brent Okita
2

Mt. Rainier: The 2014 Season Begins!

Posted by: Brent Okita, Tyler Jones, Ben Liken, Nick Hunt, Mike King, Chase Nelson | May 12, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,060'

RMI Guides Brent Okita and Tyler Jones are leading our first 2014 Mt. Rainier Summit Climb! The team is doing great and had beautiful weather on their ascent to Camp Muir today.  Tomorrow the team will go on an acclimatization hike and get ready for their summit bid on Wednesday.

8,600' on the Muir Snowfield. Photo: Brent Okita Loving life on the Muir Snowfield. Photo: Brent Okita
4

Previous Page More Entries