Entries By elias de andres martos

Dhaulagiri: RMI Guides Spend a Night at Camp 1 and are Back in Basecamp

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Jake Beren, Geoff Schellens, Garrett Stevens | April 12, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Guide News
Elevation: 15,584'

Hello, this is Dhaulagiri climbing team on Saturday, April 12th. We have come back to base camp. We had made a move to Camp 1 and spent last night up there. We were forced to move down because of the bad weather. However that was pretty much the plan after moving up there and caching some gear and spend at least a night for acclimatization. We have about a foot of snow at base camp and we got about 1 1/2 feet at Camp 1 last night. Looks like the trend is going to be like that for the next couple of days and we are going to wait it out down here. We’ll keep you posted on the move. So far the “mountain of storms.” We will see what happens. Hope everyone is doing well and we’ll check in later.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

Elias de Andres Martos calls in from Dhaulagiri Basecamp.

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STAY SAFE, my brave caballeros!

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Posted by: nsb on 4/18/2014 at 10:35 am

Elias: Fingers crossed that you and your team get some good weather in the coming days. Hang in there!!!

Chris Palmer

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Posted by: Chris Palmer on 4/13/2014 at 5:37 pm

Dhaulagiri: RMI Team Making Progress on the Mountain

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Jake Beren, Geoff Schellens, Garrett Stevens | April 10, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Guide News
Elevation: 15,584'

Hello, this is the Dhaulagiri climbing team calling from basecamp on Thursday, the 10th of April. We have been here now for a few days. We made some progress on the mountain.  We’ve moved a couple of caches almost to Camp 1. We have had a few peeks of the mountain, in between a couple of severe storms that have fallen upon us. We were pretty close and a move to Camp 1 has been made. The four of us have acclimatized to that elevation, and we will try to push out there tomorrow and spend a couple of nights. The weather forecast looks favorable to us for the next couple of days. The weather here has been a little weird with really clear mornings and snowstorms pretty much every afternoon, so that has been a little interesting. We are enjoying ourselves pretty well here. Everybody is very healthy and in good spirits. We’ll try to make some progress and spend our first night at altitude. We’ll keep you posted with more once we make that move. We hope you are all doing very, very well. Regards from Nepal.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos calls in from Dhaulagiri's Basecamp.

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Posted by: Mike Poutiatine on 4/10/2014 at 8:59 pm

Daily I am wearing a Tibetan-sourced St. Christopher-like disc to keep you all well and energized for the climbs ahead.  These postings mean the world to me—keep them coming and… read more

Posted by: nsb on 4/10/2014 at 3:56 pm

Dhaulagiri: Elias & Team Check in from Their Approach to Dhaulagiri

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Jake Beren, Geoff Schellens, Garrett Stevens | April 02, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Guide News
Elevation: 12,139'

Hello this the Dhaulagiri team. We are at the end of our fifth day of our approach to base camp at a location called Italian Camp. We are roughly at 3,700 meters. Everything has been pretty good so far. We have had really good weather on the approach. A couple of snow storms at night. The sunshine at this camp is baking us right now.  We are about to have a pretty good meal here. We would like to share also that on the approach, we had a really cool encounter in one of the villages. We shared some of the supplies that we gathered over the last year from supporters who have been pitching in to bring us here. So that was really neat to share these items with a village on our way to Dhaulagiri. Everything is well like I said. We have about two or three more days to get into Base Camp from where we will be checking in once we arrive. So we hope all is well and we will keep you posted. Bye.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos calls in from Italian Camp.

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Dhaulagiri: RMI Guides Start by Meeting with Ms. Hawley, the Bookkeeper

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Jake Beren, Geoff Schellens, Garrett Stevens | March 27, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Guide News


The 2014 Dhaulagiri team has reunited in Kathmandu after the three waves in which all of us arrived. With the last minute of extra food shopping done, we had the mandatory briefing at the ministry of tourism this morning and paid a special visit to Ms. Hawley, the “bookkeeper” of Himalayan climbing. She helped us understand this endeavor even better with some statistics pertinent to our team: among our nationalities, only 14 Americans (2 women) and 28 Spaniards have summited on this mountain with just 300 total ascents. Really exciting!

Tomorrow we fly early morning to Pokhara, and then a six-hour drive will take us to Darbang.  This is the trailhead to our week-long approach to base camp. We’ll check in next from the trails!

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

The RMI Dhaulagiri team meet with Ms. Hawley in Kathmandu. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos

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We just missed you Dhaulagiri clamberers in Kathmandu.  Best wishes for a safe and fun adventure.  We’ll be following you from the Khumbu.

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Posted by: Dave Hahn on 3/29/2014 at 4:06 am

Mt. Rainier: RMI Guide Elias de Andres Recaps Winter Seminar & Successful Summit

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Adam Knoff, Leah Fisher, Nick Hunt | March 18, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

Last week was RMI’s March Expedition Skills Seminar-Winter. Like every month from January to April, a team of intrepid climbers looking to learn the beauty of winter mountaineering, ventured up the slopes of Mt. Rainier on this, our classic six-day winter program. Guides Adam Knoff, Leah Fisher, Nick Hunt and myself, Elías de Andrés, enjoyed the company of a dozen folks, who initally were welcomed by a characteristic March day; rain in town, snow and wind up high. Our orientation day in Ashford would include a thorough evaluation of the forecast, a task that is, regardless, part of this program’s curriculum. But in this case, with a close look at a promising improving trend which would keep us excited for the remaining of the day.

The next morning, with packs ready and boots laced up, we headed into the park not without a delay due to the National Park’s snow plows hard work to keep the road to Paradise open to individuals like us. Upon arriving to Paradise we rigged our equipment for the hike to what would be our first camp. Atop Marmot Hill, we built a fortified settlement “Denali style” for the evening. A “posh house” tent was erected to socialize at dinner time, just like on any expedition, really. It was a new sight for many in the group, which by now were enjoying expedition life barely 500ft above the parking lot.

Our hike to Muir started as we waved good bye to a weatherfront that had wiped western Washington for a few days, but not without great team effort breaking trail for most of the remaining 4,000 vertical feet to Camp Muir. Enjoying the clearest skies possible, our climbers who’d arrived from all parts of the country could make out in the horizon the central Oregon volcanoes of Mt. Hood and Jefferson without even squinting. To the north, some avalanches, along with ice and rock fall from the Nisqually Ice Cliff, reminded us of the interactions between the new loaded glaciers the spring-like sun of this day. The next 36 hours would continue to add to the tool kit the climbers were building for future expeditions and also, in order to face, of course, a potential climb the following day as the high pressure system was supposed to last for at least three days. Muir Peak, the AAA Gully, the Cowlitz Glacier… all provided, in the vicinity of Camp Muir, a perfect training ground.

In the morning of Thursday, March 13th, we woke up to yet another incredible day; clear skies had been swiped of clouds by the same winds that windblasted some of the upper slopes… as well as loaded others. Careful evaluation by the guides on the go, determined a safe, wind-scoured route up the west side of the Ingraham Glacier, a seldom traveled route almost hugging Gibraltar Rock on its east side. Once at Camp Comfort, trail breaking efforts would begin again, and as the team team held it together, we were getting closer to the top in sometimes mid-calf deep snow on the now, more lower angled sections of the climb.

After 6 hours and 50 minutes of ascent, the team reached the crater rim to the now strengthening winds. But a new winter summit had been attained by another successful RMI Winter Skills Seminar team. Our careful preparation to detail, our philosophy in approaching the mountain, the guidance of the leaders and the great application of the skills learned by the climbers allowed the feat… the RMI way!

The next day, in a deja vu of what winter is truly like, we woke up to one-foot tall spindrifts and gusts of over 70mph at Camp Muir. Most of the guides, including myself, couldn’t remember such conditions on the snowfield. Far away from feeling accomplished by the previous day’s achievement, successfully navigating down to Paradise in such white-out conditions demanded now serious skill and perseverance. A team of now well-trained climbers, learned their last lesson of this winter seminar; the summit is only back at the car. Three hours later we’d bypass the remains of our camp on day 1, and as the winds decreased at 6,000ft and visibility came back to reasonable, we reached the Paradise parking lot. Celebratory drinks and a dinner over future climbing plans with the climbers was the perfect closure to a week on the frigid, yet amazing environment of winter on Mt. Rainier.

Come play, climb and learn with RMI! Satisfaction guaranteed.

Elías de Andrés
RMI Senior Guide

Winter seminar's first camp at Marmot Hill. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos RMI Winter Seminar ascending the upper slopes of Mt. Rainier. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos March 2014 Winter Seminar team walking into the Mt. Rainier crater. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos March 13, 2014 -Winter Seminar summit team pose under bluebird skies in Mt. Rainier's crater. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos

Elias, Adam, Nick, Leah;

Thanks again for all your hard work on this trip - you all handled things very professionally, and I for one learned quite a bit.  Both… read more

Posted by: Eric on 3/19/2014 at 8:57 am

Everest Base Camp Trek: The Team Finishes Their Trek

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos | November 18, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest BC Trek
Elevation: 4,383'

Namaste from Kathmandu.

Yes, we are out of the mountains… the team has finished the trek!

The last couple of days of our descent have been really exciting dear friends. Upon our arrival into Namche Bazaar, we took a rest day to enjoy the magic that embraces one when in the Khumbu.

With the best weather one can imagine and with the image of the highest mountains of the world very vivid in our memories, we found ourselves having an incredible surprise: we’d take a helicopter tour around Everest! Story aside, it is worth mentioning how seeing from the air lines that wrote history in mountain climbing, like the Hornbein Couloir made our eyes “watery”.

We’d finish our descent to Lukla and bask in thick air as the smell of the aviation fuel brought us to realize we were getting to the end of an incredible trek. We flew into Kathmandu this morning where we await our flights back home at the same time as we will be witnessing tomorrow the second democratic elections in this small Himalayan country. Nepali people are to elect a government to end a five-year period of an unstable care-taking government since the abolition of their monarchy… but this is a “summit” Nepal has to climb and we wish them luck.

That has been all from our trip. Thanks to all of you who followed our adventure through our RMI Blog, to our great Sherpa Nawang Dorjee, to our Nepali outfitter HAD and Sagar in particular and to the mountains for being there and providing such an experience and making us feel so small.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

Night photo of Mt. Everest. Photo: Chris Palmer

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Everest Base Camp Trek: Descending to Thicker Air in the Khumbu Valley

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos | November 14, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest BC Trek
Elevation: 12,325'

Namaste from Deboche.

We have just checked into our lodge after finishing our second day of our steady descent back down the Khumbu Valley. Yesterday we changed things up in the initial itinerary, crashing at Dingboche so we could have a closer view of Ama Dablam’s north face. Besides the new views, we were also rewarded with a great night of sleep, having dropped nearly 1,000 meters from Everest Base Camp.
The descent today gave us more thicker air to breath as well as the so much needed higher temperature; we where certainly feeling the approaching winter in the high Himalayas.

We’ll be checking in again from Namche… another handful of hundreds of feet lower!!!

Pics from the last few days… uploading now with better bandwidth!

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

Setting up on Kala Patar for night time lapse shooting.  Photo: Elias de Andres Martos The RMI Team at Everest Base Camp.  Photo: Elias de Andres Martos Everest and Nuptse at sunset from our bivy at Kala Patar.  Photo: Elias de Andres Martos

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Great photos you’ve been posting. Thanks!

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Posted by: Deblan on 11/14/2013 at 11:02 pm

Everest Base Camp Trek: Team Enjoys Great Views and Explores Everest Base Camp

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos | November 12, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest BC Trek
Elevation: 17,575'

Namaste from Gorak Shep.

Happy to post that the team’s objective of taking time lapse pictures of the Milky Way spinning over and around the tallest mountain of the world has been accomplished!

Despite the frigid cold and with permission from the ever watching sentinels of Pumori and Nupse, we biouvaked last night at 5,400m on the side hills of Kala Patar. Looking right at the summit pyramid of Everest, we had the clearest evening one can imagine; a crisp sky would merge without interruptions with the sharp, silky white silhouette of the mountain ridges while being lit by a perfect moon.

Half way through the night, we’d experience once more why we westerners owe so much to the local people of the himalaya; our Sherpa Nawang would meet us bring up a 2l thermos of tea as we were experiencing the frost accumulating over our sleeping bags and camera equipment.

Today, with the memories of an spectacular night, we payed a visit to the Khumbu Glacier’s morraine where the Base Camp for Everest is set during the climbing season.

We are now enjoying dinner at our lodge, with our minds set in our descent that starts tomorrow. Our first stop will be Dingboche to enjoy again astonishing views of the N. Face of Ama Dablam.

More updates to come in a couple of days from the thicker air villages of the Khumbu.

RMI Guide Elías de Andrés

The view from Everest Base Camp.  Photo: RMI Collection The summit of Mt. Everest as seen from Kala Patar.  Photo: RMI Collection

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Everest Base Camp Trek: Team Calls in from Gorak Shep

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos | November 10, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest BC Trek
Elevation: 16,950'

Hello, this is the Everest Base Camp Trek. We are calling from Gorak Shep where we just arrived after a few days since our last post.  We are in great shape.  We have enjoyed very nice weather and steady pace coming up here where we will stay for the next two to three days. Trying to take some pictures and getting ready for the descent. So far all is good and we are enjoying our time up here. That’s all for now.

RMI Guide Elías de Andrés-Martos

RMI Guide Elías de Andrés-Martos calls in from Gorak Shep.

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Your posts are great and appreciated. This is one trek I want to do,..and will do.  Please keep the posts coming! Have fun and be safe!

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Posted by: Deblan on 11/10/2013 at 7:57 pm

Everest Base Camp Trek: The Team Enjoys Astonishing Views Hiking to Pheriche

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos | November 06, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest BC Trek
Elevation: 13,950'

Hello from the “Himalayan Hotel” at Pheriche!

Another incredible day in the Himalayas, dear friends… And we can certainly say now we are going to spend the first night at high altitude, having hiked above the 4,000m benchmark.

After a rather cold night in Pangboche, we were greeted by another cloudless sky, whose sun made us ditch our layers just a few minutes after the start. Headed towards Pheriche Pass, we enjoyed astonishing views of Kantega, Tamserku (two of the most radical 6,000m peaks in the Khumbu,) and of course Ama Dablam. Like on the previous days, the mystique of the landscape is only disturbed by the heavy downhill traffic that we encounter from time to time.

While we await our dinner and as I write this post, we’re also getting ready to set up for another session of nocturnal time lapse pictures before the evasive crescent moon we have vanishes.

The plan tomorrow is to rest here, to continue to acclimate taking a short hike, to visit the Himalayan Rescue Hospital next door, and, of course, stay well nourished with the momos and tea that (among other things) make us look forward to every meal.

On a side note, we celebrated on the trails a rendezvous with fellow guide Lakpa Gelu and RMI office staff Bridget Schletty.

Regards to everyone,

RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos

A break going up Pheriche pass with Kantega and Tamserku in the background. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos Arrival at Himalayan Hotel in Pheriche. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos

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Like - more photos.

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Posted by: Mary on 11/7/2013 at 7:22 am

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