Entries By elias de andres martos

Alpamayo: Team Summits with 100%

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos | July 24, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 17,880'

Hello everyone, this is Elias and the Alpamayo Climbing team Thursday the 24th.  It is 9:45 local time and we are calling from Camp 2.  Guess what?  We just summited this morning.  We didn’t have a chance to call from the summit, it’s a pretty gnarly ridge, pretty exposed and there were some winds.  We were a six person team, all the climbers Tony, Kenzie, Parker and Peter made it up. So pulling the sat phone out was a little bit out of the question.  But we are psyched.  We had an awesome climb. These guys were super strong and climbed really, really quick and efficient.  Like I said we are back at camp, safe and sound. 
We are looking forward to starting our descent.  The plan is now to take a couple hours rest here and pack it up and initiate our descent to base camp where our cook, Emile, we hopefully be waiting with a nice meal, really well earned.
That is pretty much it for now.  As an antidote, we would like to share that, we had a chance, to high five reknown Swiss climber Ueli Steck who was climbing here in the Cordillera Blanca and happened to climb Alpamayo today.  It was pretty nice to see him climb next to us and, of course,  smoked us on the way up. But hey, he’s a different league, and we feel pretty satisfied with the job done. We were the first one’s out of camp, the first one’s on the summit and the first one’s down back to camp.
We are reporting incredible weather, incredible views and everybody is psyched.
And if you stay tuned we will be checking in tonight when we arrive back at Base Camp, out of the glacier and ready to return to Huaraz tomorrow.  That’s it from me right now and thanks to all of you who have been following us.  We will check in tonight when we are out of the mountains.

RMI Guides Elias de Andres Martos


RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos checks in after reaching the summit of Alpamayo.

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Alpamayo: Elias and Team Rest and Prepare for Summit Attempt

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos | July 23, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 17,880'

Hello this is the Alpamayo climbing team and the word is we are climbing tonight. It is Wednesday. 3:00 PM local time and we decide to take a rest day today as we arrived yesterday up here. And all is well, we’re pretty excited. Tony, Parker, Kenzie, and Pete are really strong, healthy, and ready to go. So we will hopefully keep you updated from the summit tomorrow sometime in the early morning and… yeah. You can probably hear our voice from the top of Alpamayo. We’ll initiate soon afterwards our descent and the goal we be to actually make it to base camp but that is yet to be seen. [Broken] Hopefully we’ll have good news for you.  That’s all for now, we’re going to go to bed pretty soon here and we’ll check in tomorrow. Bye.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos


RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos checks in from high camp on Alpamayo.

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We just got word that you successfully summited! Way to go team. We are in awe of this magical experience.  Can’t wait to celebrate over Face-time with you. Now focus… read more

Posted by: Rhea Campbell & Alex Lickerman on 7/24/2014 at 9:05 am


Alpamayo: Elias and Team arrive at Camp 2

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos | July 22, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 17,880'

Good Afternoon,

This is the Alpamayo Climbing Team calling from Camp 2.  We had a really good climb to here this morning.  We arrived a couple of hours ago. It is 4:00pm local time, everybody is enjoying some resting time in the tent.  We are melting water right now; you can probably hear the stoves.  The weather is really good - stable.  We are looking at the face, we might be climbing tonight, but we are going to see how it goes through the afternoon before we make a decision before we go tonight. Or we might take a rest and do it the next day.  We will keep you posted.

Everybody is doing well.  That’s if for now, Elias’ is out.  We will call again tomorrow.

RMI Guide Elias deAndres Martos & Team


Elias and Team Checking in from Camp 2 on Alpamayo

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1

Thanks for the check in. We’re following your progress closely and hoping the weather continues to be good. Sounds like the team is strong and well. Enjoy the climb and… read more

Posted by: Rhea Campbell on 7/23/2014 at 12:08 pm


Alpamayo: Elias & Team Stay One More Night at Camp 1

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos | July 21, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 14,270'

Good afternoon. This is the Alpamayo climbing team. It’s 2 PM local time, calling from Camp 1. We decided to stay here. Different factors made the decision happen… some of them, a little bit of a dust of snow last night and a lot of teams coming down from High Camp made us decide to wait another day here and enjoy the benefits of acclimatization at this elevation. The plan is to move up tomorrow and, hopefully, climb the next day. Everything’s looking good—weather, team spirits, and everything. So, we’ll keep you posted in a couple days, hopefully from the summit. Regardless tomorrow we’ll check in from High Camp. I hope everybody back home is doing well. Take care.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos


RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos checks in.

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2

So cool to hear of your progress, Parker and team! Regards from us and your cousins!

UT

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Posted by: UT on 7/23/2014 at 9:30 am

Hope the climb is going well.  I am excited to hear about the trip!  Wishing you all a safe climb!

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Posted by: Chelsea Beauchamp on 7/22/2014 at 8:01 am


Alpamayo: Elias and Team Rest Today at Base Camp

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos | July 19, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 14,270'

Good afternoon from Alpamayo Base Camp. We are checking in from our rest day. We had an uneventful day today, just took our time to eat and drink, and rehydrate. And we witnessed a little bit of rain and light snow with hail today—the first one of the trip. But the weather hasn’t been very bad. It’s just been normal Andean weather. We don’t have much to share today. We’re just excited to head up tomorrow to Camp 1, and other than the sighting of the birth of baby sheep that happened right here at base camp, nothing major today. So again we are just so excited to get packed tomorrow morning and head up to Camp 1, from where we will be checking in tomorrow. And so we are letting you know that the next day we are going up to Camp 1. That’s it for now. We’ll check again later. Bye.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos


RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos checks in from Alpamayo Base Camp.

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Alpamayo: Elias with an Update from Moraine Camp

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos | July 18, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 16,240'

Hello, this is the Alpamayo climbing team. We are calling from Base Camp. We had a really nice day. We went up to Camp 1, also known as Moraine Camp, to do a carry. We climbed about 600 meters of elevation, some 2,000 feet. We dropped off the gear, set up camp, and we came down. We’re now relaxing here. It’s about 1:30 local time. And we’re going to have another awesome meal prepared by our own cook, Emilio. The plan for the remainder of the day is to rest, and we will do that tomorrow, as well – a rest day before we start moving up. That’s pretty much it for now. Kensie, Parker, Tony, and Pete are doing great, and we are psyched! That’s all for now. Elías speaking here. We’ll keep you posted on our next moves tomorrow. Hope everyone’s doing well back home.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos


Elias de Andres Martos called in from Moraine Camp.

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Wishing you a great climb with views that define breath taking and air that feels good to breathe deeply. Hope you all continue to feeling good as ur elevation increases.… read more

Posted by: Trudi Skinder on 7/18/2014 at 10:57 pm


Alpamayo: Elias Calls in from Base Camp

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos | July 17, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 14,270'

Hello this is the Alpamayo climbing team calling from base camp. It’s been an awesome two days from the trails to get here. We have settled into a really nice camp at the base of the mountain. We have already had lunch and enjoying some rest. The team is doing really well. Everybody’s moving pretty nicely along these elevations. Right now we are at 4,400 meters. We are going to relax for the remainder of the day, most likely do a carry tomorrow to Moraine Camp before taking a rest day the following day and continue to move up on the mountain. That’s it for now and we will keep you posted. Bye.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos


RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos calls in from basecamp.

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1

Hi Kenzie,
I am cheering for you and your team. What a spectacular adventure. Have the time of your life.
Michael Andrews

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Posted by: Michael Andrews on 7/18/2014 at 5:34 am


Alpamayo: Elias and Team Stretch Legs and Prepack

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos | July 16, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 10,000'

July 15, 2014 - 4:21 pm PT

Hello again from Huaraz!

Relaxing day we had after all the travelling today… A two hour walk after breakfast took the team the overlook above town from where we devised the closest peaks of the Cordillera Blanca. It served also to get the blood pumping, on this the first day above 3,000 m, elevation we reached yesterday by car, so all benefits. We had a great meal afterwards (pizza from the stove oven restaurant of “El Horno”, a classic in Huaraz) and an easy afternoon of pre-packing the duffles prior to tomorrow’s departure to the trailhead.

We´re getting ready for dinner and an early bed time; Cashapampa trailhead and eventually Llamacorral Camp await tomorrow. Next post will be from the trails.

Best regards,
Elias de Andres Martos

View of the Peruvian mountains from the hotel in Huaraz, Peru.  Photo: RMI Collection

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Cool. Keep the updates coming. We’re watching closely and I’m posting everything to Facebook. These updates are my only link to what you guys are doing and where you are.… read more

Posted by: Rhea Campbell & Alex Lickerman on 7/16/2014 at 8:36 am


Alpamayo: deAndres Martos & Team Arrive in Huaraz

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos | July 15, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru

Good morning from Huaraz!

The team is on its day one of the expedition. After meeting in Lima, we took the mandatory 8 hour ride to Huaraz and checked into the hotel. We met with Peter, our outfitter and best asset in Peru, and headed for a much needed dinner. Early bed time to overcome the many hours of international (and domestic) travel and we´re now ready for breakfast. The plan for today? A 2 to 3 hour walk in the vicinity of town, a thorough gear check and pack for tomorrow’s departure to Cashapampa, the trail head for Alpamayo.

Best regards,

RMI Guide Elias deAndres Martos & Team

Team Breakfast in Huaraz. Photo: Elisa deAndres Martos

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4

Pete-

What a feast! Best wishes to you and your trail mates for a successful climb!

Dad

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Posted by: Ted Sage on 7/16/2014 at 4:15 pm

Pete,

Great to see your smiling face in the Huaraz pic.  Jim Daverman alerted me to your presence on this trip.

Good luck;  make it happen!

Art Muir

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Posted by: Art Muir on 7/15/2014 at 7:40 pm


Peru Seminar: de Andres Martos and Team Return to Lima

Posted by: Robby Young, Elias de Andres Martos | July 13, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru

Greetings all,

After spending the last 10 days above 14,000’, our eyes and lungs relished in the sights, smells, and the oxygen-rich, moist ocean air we encountered on the drive back from Huaraz to Lima. A stop in Playa Barranca for ceviche, tacu-tato, and other local seafood dishes truly brought our expedition full circle as we enjoyed an ocean view from our lunch table. Upon arrival in Lima, the inevitable disbanding of the team began as some caught midnight flights back to friends and family, while a few have one more day in Lima to relax, catch the World Cup Final, and relive the wonderful experiences we’ve had over the past couple weeks in the Cordillera Blanca. Best wishes from sea level and thanks for following along!

RMI Guides Robby Young, Elias de Andres Martos, and the Peru Seminar Team

The Peru Seminar team enjoying the sand in Playa Barranca, Peru. Photo: Robby Young The Peru Seminar team preparing for their ceviche and tacu-tato lunch in Playa Barranca, Peru. Photo: Robby Young

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