Entries By elias de andres martos

Peru Seminar: de Andres Martos and Team Return to Lima

Posted by: Robby Young, Elias de Andres Martos | July 13, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru

Greetings all,

After spending the last 10 days above 14,000’, our eyes and lungs relished in the sights, smells, and the oxygen-rich, moist ocean air we encountered on the drive back from Huaraz to Lima. A stop in Playa Barranca for ceviche, tacu-tato, and other local seafood dishes truly brought our expedition full circle as we enjoyed an ocean view from our lunch table. Upon arrival in Lima, the inevitable disbanding of the team began as some caught midnight flights back to friends and family, while a few have one more day in Lima to relax, catch the World Cup Final, and relive the wonderful experiences we’ve had over the past couple weeks in the Cordillera Blanca. Best wishes from sea level and thanks for following along!

RMI Guides Robby Young, Elias de Andres Martos, and the Peru Seminar Team

The Peru Seminar team enjoying the sand in Playa Barranca, Peru. Photo: Robby Young The Peru Seminar team preparing for their ceviche and tacu-tato lunch in Playa Barranca, Peru. Photo: Robby Young

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Peru Seminar: Elias & Team At the Trailhead

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Robby Young | July 11, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru

The team is back at the trailhead in the village of Pashpa. The bus is waiting to shuttle us back to Huaraz as soon as the donkeys make it down from the Ishinca Valley Base Camp.  Tomorrow I will send a final dispatch and some photos.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

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2

Peru Seminar: Elias & Team Summit Tocllaraju!

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Robby Young | July 10, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 18,143'

Hello this is the Peru climbing team. Elias speaking, Robby next to me, and the climbers are taking a break at 5,000 meters. We were supposed to have called from the summit, but heavy winds and trying to get down delayed the phone call. But we have finished our last rappel. It was a pretty interesting one- a free-hanging rappel over bergschrund. We are taking a break just to anticipate the remaining ground, which is a pretty easy travel to Camp 1, from where we will be picking up our gear and heading out to base camp. We are pretty excited about that, but we still have a couple hours to go on the glacier. We just wanted to let you know everything went well with the last of our climbs, the most challenging one, Tocllaraju, 6,023 meters. We rocked it; we are pretty tired but psyched. The route has been as challenging as any of the two guys that are here who have climbed it, have ever seen it. We are happy with the work done. We will let you know more when we can post tomorrow when we arrive in Huaraz, where we can post some pictures. Thank you for all of the support to all of you who have been following our blog. The next post will be from Huaraz tomorrow. That’s it for now, 2 pm on Thursday. Tocllaraju! The Peru Seminar will be over soon.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos


RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos calling in after Tocllaraju summit.

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11

Kimmer!!! Congrats to you and the team- sounds like a challenging last climb- but you did it!! Not sure what bergschrund might be- but I am sure you totally mastered… read more

Posted by: lora on 7/10/2014 at 1:46 pm


Peru Seminar: Elias & Team at Tocllaraju’s High Camp

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Robby Young | July 09, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 17,380'

Good afternoon, this is the climbing team in Peru. Elias calling here. We have made it to high camp on Tocllaraju and we are perched at 5,100m right on the edge of the glacier. A sense of accomplishment that everybody has right now. It’s indescribable as we are in one of the most beautiful places that we have seen so far on this trip. We are surrounded by a huge cirque of 5,000 and 6,000-meter peaks. Tonight we are going to get ready to climb Tocllaraju, the last and most challenging objective of our seminar.  Everybody is doing really well and we are having right now really good weather. Everything is on schedule and we will keep you posted tomorrow hopefully from the summit, sometime in the early morning. Right now it’s 4 o’clock in the afternoon local time in Peru. We are brewing some water and cooking some dinner. That’s pretty much it for now. We will hope to, like I said, call tomorrow from the summit and wrap up this amazing expedition. That’s all for now. Good evening.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos


Elias de Andres Martos calling from Tocllaraju's High Camp.

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1

Peru Seminar: Elias & Team Summit Ishinca!

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Robby Young | July 07, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 18,143'

Hello, good morning. This is the Peru climbing team calling from the summit of Ishinca, 5,530 meters. It’s 9:45 a.m. local time. I’m going to let you know how the crew is doing… [Team’s happy cheers!] I hope that was a good enough sign. We had a heck of a climb this morning. The team crushed it. We are having a really good day. We’ve had some easy weather the last couple of days but this morning from sunrise to right now, nothing but blue skies. The views from up here are astonishing, and we’ll let you know when you see the pictures. We will keep you posted of our schedule. Tomorrow we are going to take a rest day and we’ll see what the next couple days bring us as we wrap up the program. We call you back and I hope everybody is doing well at home. That’s it for now.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos


Elias de Andres Martos calls in from the Inshinca summit!

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7

Peru Seminar: Elias & Team Ready to Climb Ishinca

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Robby Young | July 06, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 14,400'

Hello everyone, this is Elias, Robby and the team in the Ishinca Valley. We are getting ready to go to bed as we are going to climb Ishinca tonight. It is 7:30 in the evening here. Today we spent the day doing some training at the glacier of the Ishinca Peak. We cached some gear up there and then tomorrow we should be having another awesome climbing day on this astonishing peak called Ishinca.  Hopefully, we will get a signal from the summit and we will call from there in about half a day or so. Hope all is well back home and we’ll keep you posted.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos


RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos calls in from Ishinca Basecamp.

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2

Peru Seminar: de Andres Martos and Team Summit Navado Urus

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Robby Young | July 04, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 17,800'

Friday, July 4, 2014 - 9:43 AM PT

Hello from the summit of Nevado Urus at 5,497 meters! This is Elias and the crew, we are on top and enjoying the views of the Cordillera Blanca. We had a nice day and are enjoying our time up here. Everybody’s doing well and we will be checking in tomorrow on our rest day. We are blown away by the lakes and the glaciers and the summit we are seeing. Are we guys? (team cheering).  I don’t know if you heard them but they were cheering.  That’s all for now, we’ll be checking in later. Bye.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos


RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos checks in from the summit of Nevado Urus.

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6

Peru Seminar: de Andres Martos and Team Train and Prepare

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos | July 04, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 14,270'

Thursday, July 3, 2014 - 7:09 PM PT

Hello again, this Elias and the Ishinca Valley seminar. We’re having a good time here during our second day at base camp. After our arrival yesterday we left a dispatch but didn’t know if the call went through, or at least part of it. Today we’re checking in letting you know we had a great day of training. We are going to bed right now getting ready for tomorrow’s climb of Navado Urus, a 5,400m (17,800’) peak. Everybody’s doing well, enjoying ourselves up here. We will be checking tomorrow again with hopefully some good news from the summit. Hope all is well at home and we’ll let you know of our progress tomorrow.

Good bye for now.
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos


RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos checks in after a day of training with the Peru Seminar team.

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Peru Seminar: de Andres Martos & Team arrive at Base Camp

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Robby Young | July 03, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 14,400'

Hello this is Elias, Robby & The Ishinca Valley team for the Peru Seminar,

We are established at our Base Camp here in the Ishinca Valley at 14,400’.  Everybody made it OK here to Base Camp. We had a nice day hiking through beautiful landscape that allowed us to see some our future objectives.  Right now we are retiring to bed after great day of hard work.

We will check in again soon!

The Peru Seminar team's knot session at the Ishinca Valley Base camp. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos


Elias and The Peru Seminar Team checking in from the Ishinca Valley

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6

Peru Seminar: Team Heads for the Mountains

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Robby Young | July 02, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 10,000'

Good morning from Club Andino Hotel in Huaraz!

Well, here we are, loading the bus and onto the trailhead. A 1 1/2 hour drive and a 4 to 5 hour hike await for us today. In our minds, the Ishinca Valley Base Camp. Everybody is doing well, the minor headaches from arriving to Huaraz (10,000ft) are gone, and excietment is palpable in everyone.
We’ll be checking again from our tents the next time. Best regards from Huaraz.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

The team loading the bus in Huaraz, getting ready to head to the trailhead for the Ishinca Valley, Peru.  Photo: Elias de Andres Martos

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