Entries By garrett stevens

Dhaulagiri: RMI Guide Team Checks in from Base Camp

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Jake Beren, Geoff Schellens, Garrett Stevens | April 20, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Guide News
Elevation: 15,584'

Hello, this is the Dhaulagiri climbing team on Sunday, the 20th. First of all we want to apologize for the lack of communication, but we’re having serious problems with our SAT phone and charger and we are trying to solve that problem. We are also saddened by the news that arrived to base camp here of the tragedy on Everest.  We want to send our condolences to the community of the Sherpa involved in this tragedy. Our progress here on the mountain continues. We have been able to reach almost Camp 2. We have been very unlucky with the weather. Until right now we have been the only team on the mountain, but we were able to make a carry to almost Camp 2 and spend a few nights at Camp 1. Right now the weather looks like it is favorable to us and we are hoping to take a few days of rest and make some more progress up high, hopefully getting to Camp 2 or 3 in the next week or so. Getting ready for a future summit push around the beginning of May. So we’ll keep you posted on that and we hope everybody is doing well. We’ll try to keep you posted as much as we can with the limited communications that we have here. Regards to all from Dhaulagiri Base Camp.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos


RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos calls in from Dhaulagiri Base Camp.

Sign Up For Guide News 2014 Email Alerts

1

Please be wise and safe as you make your decisions.  You are loved down here at sea level.

read more

Posted by: nsb on 4/23/2014 at 10:52 am


Dhaulagiri: RMI Guides Spend a Night at Camp 1 and are Back in Basecamp

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Jake Beren, Geoff Schellens, Garrett Stevens | April 12, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Guide News
Elevation: 15,584'

Hello, this is Dhaulagiri climbing team on Saturday, April 12th. We have come back to base camp. We had made a move to Camp 1 and spent last night up there. We were forced to move down because of the bad weather. However that was pretty much the plan after moving up there and caching some gear and spend at least a night for acclimatization. We have about a foot of snow at base camp and we got about 1 1/2 feet at Camp 1 last night. Looks like the trend is going to be like that for the next couple of days and we are going to wait it out down here. We’ll keep you posted on the move. So far the “mountain of storms.” We will see what happens. Hope everyone is doing well and we’ll check in later.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos


Elias de Andres Martos calls in from Dhaulagiri Basecamp.

Sign Up For Guide News 2014 Email Alerts

2

STAY SAFE, my brave caballeros!

read more

Posted by: nsb on 4/18/2014 at 10:35 am

Elias: Fingers crossed that you and your team get some good weather in the coming days. Hang in there!!!

Chris Palmer

read more

Posted by: Chris Palmer on 4/13/2014 at 5:37 pm


Dhaulagiri: RMI Team Making Progress on the Mountain

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Jake Beren, Geoff Schellens, Garrett Stevens | April 10, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Guide News
Elevation: 15,584'

Hello, this is the Dhaulagiri climbing team calling from basecamp on Thursday, the 10th of April. We have been here now for a few days. We made some progress on the mountain.  We’ve moved a couple of caches almost to Camp 1. We have had a few peeks of the mountain, in between a couple of severe storms that have fallen upon us. We were pretty close and a move to Camp 1 has been made. The four of us have acclimatized to that elevation, and we will try to push out there tomorrow and spend a couple of nights. The weather forecast looks favorable to us for the next couple of days. The weather here has been a little weird with really clear mornings and snowstorms pretty much every afternoon, so that has been a little interesting. We are enjoying ourselves pretty well here. Everybody is very healthy and in good spirits. We’ll try to make some progress and spend our first night at altitude. We’ll keep you posted with more once we make that move. We hope you are all doing very, very well. Regards from Nepal.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos


RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos calls in from Dhaulagiri's Basecamp.

Sign Up For Guide News 2014 Email Alerts

2

JAKE!!!!!

read more

Posted by: Mike Poutiatine on 4/10/2014 at 8:59 pm

Daily I am wearing a Tibetan-sourced St. Christopher-like disc to keep you all well and energized for the climbs ahead.  These postings mean the world to me—keep them coming and… read more

Posted by: nsb on 4/10/2014 at 3:56 pm


Dhaulagiri: Elias & Team Check in from Their Approach to Dhaulagiri

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Jake Beren, Geoff Schellens, Garrett Stevens | April 02, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Guide News
Elevation: 12,139'

Hello this the Dhaulagiri team. We are at the end of our fifth day of our approach to base camp at a location called Italian Camp. We are roughly at 3,700 meters. Everything has been pretty good so far. We have had really good weather on the approach. A couple of snow storms at night. The sunshine at this camp is baking us right now.  We are about to have a pretty good meal here. We would like to share also that on the approach, we had a really cool encounter in one of the villages. We shared some of the supplies that we gathered over the last year from supporters who have been pitching in to bring us here. So that was really neat to share these items with a village on our way to Dhaulagiri. Everything is well like I said. We have about two or three more days to get into Base Camp from where we will be checking in once we arrive. So we hope all is well and we will keep you posted. Bye.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos


RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos calls in from Italian Camp.

Sign Up For Guide News 2014 Email Alerts


Dhaulagiri: RMI Guides Start by Meeting with Ms. Hawley, the Bookkeeper

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Jake Beren, Geoff Schellens, Garrett Stevens | March 27, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Guide News

Namaste!

The 2014 Dhaulagiri team has reunited in Kathmandu after the three waves in which all of us arrived. With the last minute of extra food shopping done, we had the mandatory briefing at the ministry of tourism this morning and paid a special visit to Ms. Hawley, the “bookkeeper” of Himalayan climbing. She helped us understand this endeavor even better with some statistics pertinent to our team: among our nationalities, only 14 Americans (2 women) and 28 Spaniards have summited on this mountain with just 300 total ascents. Really exciting!

Tomorrow we fly early morning to Pokhara, and then a six-hour drive will take us to Darbang.  This is the trailhead to our week-long approach to base camp. We’ll check in next from the trails!

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

The RMI Dhaulagiri team meet with Ms. Hawley in Kathmandu. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos

Sign Up For Guide News 2014 Email Alerts

1

We just missed you Dhaulagiri clamberers in Kathmandu.  Best wishes for a safe and fun adventure.  We’ll be following you from the Khumbu.
Dave

read more

Posted by: Dave Hahn on 3/29/2014 at 4:06 am


Ecuador: Nugent & Team Arrive Back in Quito

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Garrett Stevens | February 20, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Ecuador

Well, we are off the mountain safe and sound back at the hotel in Quito. Our descent went extremely smoothly with the snow conditions making for a much easier time than we had on Cayambe. At our lunch pit stop on the way back to the city we happened to randomly run into another RMI team headed by Casey and Topo that was headed from Illiniza Sur into Cotopaxi. I hope they come across the same great weather and conditions we enjoyed today. Anyway, we are all resting and cleaning up at the hotel before we meet one last time as a team tonight for a celebratory dinner.

Until next year…

RMI Guide Billy Nugent & Team

Panoramic view of Quito. RMI Photo Collection

Sign Up For Ecuador 2014 Email Alerts


Ecuador: SUMMIT COTOPAXI!

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Garrett Stevens | February 20, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Ecuador
Elevation: 19,348'

Hey, it’s Billy here checking in with our crew 100% on top of Cotopaxi. Enjoying another gorgeous day and another summit of an Ecuadorian Volcano! We have been taking probably hundreds of photos here on the top and we are going to gear up shortly and begin our descent. We will check in when again when we are down safe and sound, so wish us luck.

Ciao ciao!

RMI Guide Billy Nugent & Team

Sunrise on Cotopaxi. RMI Photo Collection


Billy Nugent calling from the summit of Cotopaxi.

Sign Up For Ecuador 2014 Email Alerts


Ecuador: Nugent and Team Enjoy Rest Day at Chilcabamba

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Garrett Stevens | February 18, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Ecuador

Hi all… Just checking in on a rest day here at Chilcabamba. Been enjoying the views and the rustic setup of this farmhouse turned lodge and lazing about like monarchs. The famous dogs of Chilcabamba, Pacha and Toa are still around and friendly as ever (anyone who’s been here knows what I’m talking about). These guys might be easier to adopt than the aforementioned monkey but I’m pretty sure the folks here won’t give them up so easily. Not much else to report besides views, wood burning stoves, hundreds of hummingbirds, and ponchos! Enjoying our rest and letting our brains as bodies recoup after yesterday’s challenge, getting ready for the next…

RMI Guides Billy, Garrett & Team

Chilcabamba Eco Lodge. RMI Photo Collection

Sign Up For Ecuador 2014 Email Alerts


Ecuador: Nugent and Team Recap Summit of Cayambe

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Garrett Stevens | February 17, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Ecuador

All smiles on the summit of Cayambe!

Our strong team made short work of Cayambe today and were on the summit in about 6 hours and 45 minutes after leaving the refugio. Conditions were very firm on the glacier and when combined with fair weather and almost no wind it made for a quick trip up. A rope length of steep snow and ice just below the summit required some front pointing and a belay especially because the runout emptied into a giant chasm of a bergschrund. A little ice climbing is always nice to keep you on your toes. The sun came up at some point while we were negotiating this steep pitch and we enjoyed the dawn from the summit. We took pictures and exchanged high fives on top and after a short while began our descent because we wanted to pass over several hollow spots on the glacier before the day heated up. Those firm glacier conditions that made the climbing so nice on the way up made the descent a fair bit more taxing. Despite being tired and a bit worked we were back at the refugio just after 10:30 am. A quick pickup and we were headed down the road to meet Victor and jump on the bus for the long ride to the Chilcabamba eco lodge at the base of Cotopaxi. And after a time warp of a bus ride, here we are chilling and filling up on a hot meal with a rest day ahead.

Time for sleep…

RMI Guide Billy Nugent & Team

Climbers Hut on Cayambe. RMI Photo Collection

Sign Up For Ecuador 2014 Email Alerts


Ecuador: Nugent & Team Summit Cayambe!

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Garrett Stevens | February 17, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Ecuador
Elevation: 18,997'

Hey everybody! It’s Billy here checking in for Garrett, Jaime and the rest of the crew. We are on the summit of Cayambe right now with clear skies and calm winds. Enjoying a perfect day. That’s all to report really. We will be headed down shortly here and wish us luck for us a safe descent. All is well, bye bye.

RMI Guide Billy Nugent

Views from the Cayambe summit. Photo: Billy Nugent


RMI Guide Billy Nugent calls from the Cayambe summit!

On The Map

Sign Up For Ecuador 2014 Email Alerts

3

Way to go Dad!  We love you!
Anne, Sarah, Jake and Abe

read more

Posted by: Jen Blodgett on 2/18/2014 at 11:48 am

Woohoo!  Go team, go!

read more

Posted by: Amy on 2/18/2014 at 8:43 am


More Entries