Entries By garrett stevens

Mt. Rainier:  Teams on Top via Emmons and Dissapointment Cleaver Routes

Posted by: Garrett Stevens, Geoff Schellens, Win Whittaker | July 31, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climbs led by RMI Guides Garrett Stevens and Win Whittaker reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning.  The teams reported cool temperatures, winds 20 mph and clear skies.  They began their descent from the summit at 7 am en route to Camp Muir.  They will take a short break there before continuing down to Paradise.

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons led by RMI Guide Geoff Schellens also made their summit push today.  Geoff and team were also beginning their descent from the crater rim around 7 am. They will return to Camp Schurman for their final night on the mountain.

Congratulations to today’s climbers!

An RMI Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons Team approaching Inter Glacier on Mt. Rainier.  Photo: RMI Collection

Mt. Rainier: July 13th Summit

Posted by: Garrett Stevens | July 13, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

At 7:25 AM, RMI Guide Garrett Stevens and the Four Day Summit Climb team radioed from the top of Disappointment Cleaver on their descent from the summit of Mt Rainier.  Garrett reported warm temperatures and a light wind making for a perfect, bluebird day.  We look forward to greeting the team in Ashford this afternoon.

Congratulations!

RMI climbers crossing the crater rim of Mt. Rainier, WA. Photo: Brent Okita
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Thinking about you Kimberly
Love your FB pics
Wishing you all the best - and hoping you see the summit tomorrow.
XOXO Maud Brian Finn and Lucia

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Posted by: Maud on 7/13/2014 at 11:57 am

Good on ya Kimberly. I hope it was a grand adventure finish strong we are thinking of you. Renee & Patrick

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Posted by: Renee & Patrick on 7/13/2014 at 11:43 am


Mt. Rainier: July 9th - Summit!

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Stoney Molina, Leah Fisher, Garrett Stevens, Nick Hunt, Pepper Dee | July 09, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

Our Four and Five Day Summit Climbs led by RMI Guides Mike Haugen and Garret Stevens were just leaving the crater rim at 7:19 am.  The teams have had a blue bird morning with clear skies, great views and light winds. We expect the teams back at Rainier Base Camp this afternoon.

Congratulations to Today’s Teams!

Crossing the Crate Rim on Mt. Rainier. Photo: Brent Okita Leaving the Summit of Mt. Rainier. Photo: Brent Okita
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We did it! Thank you all for wishes.
Bing Thanks to Mike, Leah and Stoney for being such wonderful guides and making this hike memorable!

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Posted by: Atul on 7/10/2014 at 12:15 pm

Amazing accomplishment!
Congratulations to Dimitri and his buddies!

√ done-:)...

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Posted by: Michelle BB on 7/9/2014 at 8:13 pm


Mt. McKinley: Jones and Team Wrap it Up

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens, Geoff Schellens | June 23, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley

June 23, 2014 - 2:10 PM PT

The day, yesterday, dawned cold and windy again, seemingly the weather theme for the entire trip. We decided to launch out of 11k camp anyway, with the siren song of airplane rides motivating our packing. When all the kits were loaded into duffels, we started the Kahiltna Shuffle in whiteout conditions, a stiff breeze keeping the temps cool despite the hard work of dragging big sleds downhill.

Soon we passed our friends who were camped at 9500’, and stopped in for a quick hello as the weather got just a little better. We continued down the glacier under improving skies, with only one or two minor freak-outs over the cumbersome sleds that threatened to take us out at the knees.

Finally the sun broke through, and the last grind up Heartbreak Hill was about as hot as anywhere on earth. But with the blue skies, we knew that the planes were flying - and that kept us moving right into base camp. Within about 10 minutes, our K2 Aviation Otter had landed, and we loaded up the kit and let internal combustion take over.

The evening wrap-up by the Susitna River was a special event, and Denali even came out from behind the clouds to give us full closure. It has been an incredible adventure from the very beginning, and while the actual climbing is over, the memories and experiences we’ve shared will remain. Thanks for following along and for all the support along the way!

RMI Guide Tyler Jones and team

RMI Guide Tyler Jones and team wrap up their trip along the banks of the Susitna River in Talkeetna, Alaska. Photo: Tyler Jones

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3

Congrats to the team! I can’t wait to hear more about the trip and see more pictures. Love you Jake and hope to see you soon

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Posted by: Bonnie Garfield on 6/24/2014 at 7:33 am

Tyler, Garrett and Geoff….well done and thank you from all of the John Stenderup family.  The RMI experience for John included weather adversity and other circumstances that will be life… read more

Posted by: Kent Stenderup on 6/23/2014 at 9:13 pm


Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Take it to 11K Camp

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens, Geoff Schellens | June 22, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

June 22, 2014 - 12:49 am PT

Today we woke to a cold, windy morning at high camp after yesterday’s amazing summit. The blowing snow and frigid temperatures kept us tent-bound until mid-day, when the allure of thicker air and warmer temperatures finally got us motivated to pack up and get moving.

The first stretch down the buttress was windy and cold, but by the time we reached Washburn’s Thumb it was much warmer and calmer. We made quick work of the last stretch to the lines, and then shot down the fixed ropes like it was our job. Soon we were dropping packs back in 14k camp, saying hey to Billy Nugent and Mike Haugen and their respective teams, picking up our cache and getting ready to move further down.

Soon enough, we got past Squirrel and Motorcycle Hills, revisiting our old stomping grounds at 11k. We pulled out all the cheese, meat, tortillas, and bagels we had, and commenced to put them all onto the griddle for the annual tradition of the “11,000’ Cheese Fry”. Basically we just cook all the goodness until folks are full, and then it’s off to bed for the early am launch.

We’re definitely missing the team members who had to head home early, and hope that everyone is warm and dry. Lots of walking left, but we should be at the airstrip tomorrow if all goes according to plan. We’ll check back then!

Cheers,
RMI Guides Garrett Stevens, Tyler Jones, Geoff Schellens and the No Troubles team

RMI Climbers descending above Washburn's Thumb on Mt. McKinley. Photo: RMI Collection

On The Map

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5

Dave!
I can’t begin to know how you feel about what you’ve accomplished! Can’t wait to see you and hear it all through your eyes. Besides we need you…Tristan… read more

Posted by: Suzanne on 6/23/2014 at 1:34 am

John, so proud of you and the rest of the team, have been helping you along, knew you could do it!  See you soon here in the nice hot valley.… read more

Posted by: Farmor on 6/22/2014 at 6:14 pm


Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team - Patience Delivers the Summit

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens, Geoff Schellens | June 21, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'

June 21, 2014 - 2:56 am PT

Well, you probably heard our summit phone call from earlier today, so this is just the follow-up to that. We had a heck of a day here in the high altitudes of North America, rising from the tents early this morning to cold temperatures, light winds, and high clouds. We decided that it was going to be a day for an attempt, and once we had basked in the sun for a bit we headed over to the shade of the Autobahn. Two hours later we had passed the difficulties of the pickets and the exposure below, and we stepped out around Denali Pass.

The weather was still a bit in and out, but the No Troubles crew was moving well so we kept at it. Up steep rolls, over undulating terrain, and higher and higher we climbed. We passed familiar landmarks as the day went on, like Zebra Rocks, Archdeacon’s Tower, the Football Field, and finally crested onto the summit ridge in cold wind and clear blue skies. Late this afternoon, we reached the highest point on this continent, and emotions ran high as we hugged, high-fived, and snapped photos. Jake’s team came up onto the top just as we were getting ready to head down, and we were thrilled to share that special moment with them.

This team has had a full value experience, especially with all the uncertainty and waiting that we’ve endured. Now it’s time for one last hot drink and then into the bag for a much-deserved rest. Down tomorrow, hopefully the weather holds for a flight soon!

Cheers,

RMI Guides Tyler, Geoff, Garrett and the No Troubles team

Descending the West Buttress on Mt. McKinley. Photo: RMI Collection

On The Map

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17

Congratulations!!  We were there in ‘96 with RMI in total whiteout.  Enjoy the views!!!

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Posted by: Keith on 6/22/2014 at 7:55 am

Jennifer - Congrats on your successful climb. Jacob

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Posted by: Jacob on 6/22/2014 at 7:21 am


Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Summit!

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens, Geoff Schellens | June 20, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 20,320'

June 20, 2014 - 8:56 pm PT

Hi there, it’s Tyler and team. We are standing on the summit of North America currently with our team. A little bit in the evening around 8 o’clock [Alaska time]. We are out of the wind on our side and it’s sunny, beautiful, and everything is going well. We’ll give you a shout and a little dispatch when we get back to safe and sound to our high camp. Hope everyone’s well. We’re doing great. Thanks for all of the support. Take care you guys. Talk to you soon.

RMI Guide Tyler Jones

The Autobahn from Denali Pass on Mt. McKinley. Photo: Brent Okita The view from the top of Mt. McKinley. Photo: RMI Collection


RMI Guide Tyler Jones call from the Mt. McKinley summit.

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21

Wow! Wow! Wow!  How exciting and what an amazing accomplishment!  I cannot imagine the thrill you must have felt at the summit!  I will keep all in my prayers for… read more

Posted by: Karen Pratte on 6/21/2014 at 8:11 am

Wow! Wow! Wow!  I can’t imagine the thrill that you experienced reaching the summit!  I am so very proud of you…I think you should write a book!!! Be safe on… read more

Posted by: Karen Pratte on 6/21/2014 at 8:00 am


Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Sitting Sassy at Seventeen

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens, Geoff Schellens | June 20, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'

June 19, 2014 - 6:43 pm PT

Today on our next to last day for up hill travel we got the window we needed! The no troubles crew had no trouble with our move, reaching our high camp at 17,200ft! An early departure from our 14K camp meant cold hands and feet as we approached the fixed lines, but by the time we reached our first break the sun had crested the ridge to our south. We basked in the most welcome UV, and continued up to the base of the fixed lines without feeling the bite of the -5F temperatures.

We dispatched the fixed lines without incident, and were soon taking a break in a crisp little nook on the buttress proper. High, wispy clouds took the heat right out of the sun, and the constant winds reminded us of our arctic location. The last little bit of steep fixed line at Washburn’s Thumb posed no issues, and we climbed into some of the most spectacular terrain of the West Buttress.

Steep walls fell away on both sides as we climbed the last stretch into camp, and soon we had reclaimed a couple of tent platforms, set up our shelter and had stoves running for water. The constant burn is a reminder of our high location and is helping to drown out the stiff northeast breeze currently moving through camp.

Tomorrow looks like it’ll be our window for a summit attempt, provided the winds die down and the temperatures stay reasonable. We’re psyched for the camaraderie of sharing camp with Jake Beren’s team, and look forward to being on the route with them tomorrow. Wish us luck!!

Cheers,
RMI Guide Tyler Jones and The No Troubles Team

An RMI team at the top of the Mt. McKinley's fixed lines. Photo: Linden Mallory

On The Map

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9

Hi Dad!  I really miss you. I have been having trouble sleeping, thinking of you on that cold mountain in an igloo, when I am here in my warm dogloo. … read more

Posted by: Boone Stenderup on 6/20/2014 at 8:18 pm

Hi David J. and the great No Troubles Team! I was so excited today when I saw that you got to 17,000 ft.!!!!! I can’t wait to hear of your… read more

Posted by: Pam Johnson on 6/20/2014 at 7:33 pm


Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Make Final Preparations

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens, Geoff Schellens | June 18, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

June 18, 2014 - 4:51pm PT

Well, it’s time to light this candle. We’re getting ready to vacate the premises at 14K and head up for the thin air of 17K camp, after our extended stay here in advanced base camp.

Yesterday we put the final pieces in place, as a group of guides took on an afternoon mission to move some group gear from a cache at 16,700 up to our future high camp. The afternoon was a perfect day for fast movement and by 6pm we were comfortably situated with the food, fuel, hardware and kit that we’ll need to launch for the top. Team No Troubles gets to reap the benefit of yesterday’s work, as the normally heavy group load is now up high, and folks will get to move with their bad selves and a little bit of personal gear. Woot!

It’s been a bit of an emotional roller coaster these last few days, wishing for good weather and then having forecasts dash our hopes. But this latest round of prognostication seems to give us the glimmer of goodness we need, opening the window just enough for us to make a tactical strike. Stoke and energy is at an all time high, and we’ll channel that energy into upward movement as soon as we can in the morning.

We really appreciate the love and support - keep it coming the next few days!

Until tomorrow,

RMI Guides Tyler, Garrett, Geoff and Team No Troubles

Climbers on the Ridge to 17,000' on Mt. McKinley

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25

Best of luck Dave J and the rest of the team! I’m so happy that you guys are on the way up! So excited for you all!

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Posted by: Patti Templeton on 6/20/2014 at 5:23 am

So very excited for you Jen. Proud of your patience and courage. Hang tough until the end.  Love you.

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Posted by: Aunt Marie on 6/20/2014 at 2:57 am


Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Hope for a Good Weather Window

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens, Geoff Schellens | June 18, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

June 18, 2014 - 12:24am PT

Today we got some news that a window may come our way in the next few days! We woke with the sun warming us. Granola and coffee got our day started at 14k camp. We saw fairly good weather throughout the day, yet a forecast for another big pulse of heavy snow for the near hours! Our equipment, attitudes, and stoke for the future are high and our methods of getting there are well calculated.

We wait another day hanging in there for the final push up the mountain. This season has not given many opportunities for a summit push but if we try and give it our whole effort we may just succeed! Tomorrow we will make our final preparation to stay or plan our departure Keep your eye on us and think high pressure weather.

Cheers,

RMI Guides Garrett, Tyler, Geoff and the No Troubles Team

Storm on Mt. McKinley at 14,200'. Photo: Dave Hahn

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5

Climb strong, we are all praying for you!! Love you, Dave Johnson!

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Posted by: Sandi on 6/20/2014 at 6:25 am

D.G. and team.
Wishing you luck and a good weather window. Love you little brother, Climb strong!

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Posted by: Lori Bartek on 6/18/2014 at 3:01 pm


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