Entries By geoff schellens

North Cascades: Seminar Team Summits Sahale Peak

Posted by: Geoff Schellens | August 21, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *North Cascades
Elevation: 8,680'

RMI Guide Geoff Schellens just called from the summit of Sahale Peak!  The team had a great climb and ended up above the clouds with great views of the surrounding North Cascades peaks peeking out.

The seminar team has had a fun week of training and climbing, reaching the top of Aiguille and Sahale Peak.  Tomorrow they will finish their training and descend back to the trail head before parting ways.

An RMI team descending from Sahale Peak to Boston Basin in the North Cascades. Photo: Mike Walter

Mt. Rainier: August 8th Summit!

Posted by: Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens | August 08, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

At 7:32 a.m. the RMI Mt. Rainier Four-Day Summit Climb teams began their descent from the crater rim.  RMI Guides Eric Frank and Geoff Schellens reported light winds, a marine layer and cold temperatures.

We look forward to congratulating them at Rainier Basecamp this afternoon!

Mt. Rainier - Approaching the top of the Disappointment Cleaver on the descent. Photo: Peter Whittaker
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Brent Wolfe !! You and the rest of the team ROCK!! ...literally! Way to make it happen. I guess this shows the biggest obstacles really are just in our mind!… read more

Posted by: Bre wolfe on 8/13/2014 at 5:28 am

That’s what I’m talking about!  Well done guys!

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Posted by: MrsRobber on 8/8/2014 at 10:31 am


Mt. Rainier:  Teams on Top via Emmons and Disappointment Cleaver Routes

Posted by: Garrett Stevens, Geoff Schellens, Win Whittaker | July 31, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climbs led by RMI Guides Garrett Stevens and Win Whittaker reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning.  The teams reported cool temperatures, winds 20 mph and clear skies.  They began their descent from the summit at 7 am en route to Camp Muir.  They will take a short break there before continuing down to Paradise.

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons led by RMI Guide Geoff Schellens also made their summit push today.  Geoff and team were also beginning their descent from the crater rim around 7 am. They will return to Camp Schurman for their final night on the mountain.

Congratulations to today’s climbers!

An RMI Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons Team approaching Inter Glacier on Mt. Rainier.  Photo: RMI Collection
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Way to go Pete Lynn!  Want to hear all about it.  Tracked all the way up.

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Posted by: Bill Adkins on 8/1/2014 at 5:43 pm

Hi Arthur and Owen with team Emmons. Have been following you all the way to the summit (well at least since 6.00am!). That was so awesome to watch. Congrats to… read more

Posted by: Shirley Eigenbrot on 7/31/2014 at 5:05 pm


Mt. Rainier: Teams on the Summit!

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Geoff Schellens | July 11, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Mike Haugen along with the Expedition Skills Seminar - Paradise led by Geoff Schellens reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning.  As of 7 am both teams were on their descent and approaching the top of Disappointment Cleaver en route back to Camp Muir.
Conditions are beautiful this morning with warm temperatures and light winds reported from Camp Muir (10,080’).

Congratulations to today’s climbing teams!

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Congratulations team. I was so intent on getting my post climb comma sleep I did not get to say a proper good by to you all. It was a pleasure… read more

Posted by: David Fruin on 7/12/2014 at 6:58 am

Helen and Roger, I hope you are having the time of your life. I’ve been thinking about you and praying for your safety. Stay warm and I am sure you… read more

Posted by: Vickie Davis on 7/12/2014 at 4:50 am


Mt. Rainier: Summit Teams and Emmons Seminar on Top!

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Geoff Schellens, Pete Van Deventer | July 02, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guide Tyler Jones radioed at 7 am with his Four Day Summit Climb on their descent after reaching the summit of Mt. Rainier earlier this morning.  Tyler reported moderate winds and a cloud cap on the summit.  As the teams descended they were reaching the base of the clouds.  The second Four Day Summit Climb team led by Geoff Schellens was also descending with Tyler. 

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons led by RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer reached the crater rim around 7:30 am.  The team was going to spend to a few minutes on top before starting their descent.  They will return to Camp Schurman for their final night on the mountain.

Congratulations to today’s teams!

Looking down on Camp Schurman from the Emmons Glacier Route on Mt. Rainier.  Photo: Mike Walter
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Fantastic! So proud of you. Gave a safe descent.

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Posted by: Lydia on 7/3/2014 at 1:20 pm

Congrats! So proud of you guys.

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Posted by: Ellen Seib on 7/2/2014 at 12:59 pm


Mt. McKinley: Jones and Team Wrap it Up

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens, Geoff Schellens | June 23, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley

June 23, 2014 - 2:10 PM PT

The day, yesterday, dawned cold and windy again, seemingly the weather theme for the entire trip. We decided to launch out of 11k camp anyway, with the siren song of airplane rides motivating our packing. When all the kits were loaded into duffels, we started the Kahiltna Shuffle in whiteout conditions, a stiff breeze keeping the temps cool despite the hard work of dragging big sleds downhill.

Soon we passed our friends who were camped at 9500’, and stopped in for a quick hello as the weather got just a little better. We continued down the glacier under improving skies, with only one or two minor freak-outs over the cumbersome sleds that threatened to take us out at the knees.

Finally the sun broke through, and the last grind up Heartbreak Hill was about as hot as anywhere on earth. But with the blue skies, we knew that the planes were flying - and that kept us moving right into base camp. Within about 10 minutes, our K2 Aviation Otter had landed, and we loaded up the kit and let internal combustion take over.

The evening wrap-up by the Susitna River was a special event, and Denali even came out from behind the clouds to give us full closure. It has been an incredible adventure from the very beginning, and while the actual climbing is over, the memories and experiences we’ve shared will remain. Thanks for following along and for all the support along the way!

RMI Guide Tyler Jones and team

RMI Guide Tyler Jones and team wrap up their trip along the banks of the Susitna River in Talkeetna, Alaska. Photo: Tyler Jones

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Congrats to the team! I can’t wait to hear more about the trip and see more pictures. Love you Jake and hope to see you soon

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Posted by: Bonnie Garfield on 6/24/2014 at 7:33 am

Tyler, Garrett and Geoff….well done and thank you from all of the John Stenderup family.  The RMI experience for John included weather adversity and other circumstances that will be life… read more

Posted by: Kent Stenderup on 6/23/2014 at 9:13 pm


Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Take it to 11K Camp

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens, Geoff Schellens | June 22, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

June 22, 2014 - 12:49 am PT

Today we woke to a cold, windy morning at high camp after yesterday’s amazing summit. The blowing snow and frigid temperatures kept us tent-bound until mid-day, when the allure of thicker air and warmer temperatures finally got us motivated to pack up and get moving.

The first stretch down the buttress was windy and cold, but by the time we reached Washburn’s Thumb it was much warmer and calmer. We made quick work of the last stretch to the lines, and then shot down the fixed ropes like it was our job. Soon we were dropping packs back in 14k camp, saying hey to Billy Nugent and Mike Haugen and their respective teams, picking up our cache and getting ready to move further down.

Soon enough, we got past Squirrel and Motorcycle Hills, revisiting our old stomping grounds at 11k. We pulled out all the cheese, meat, tortillas, and bagels we had, and commenced to put them all onto the griddle for the annual tradition of the “11,000’ Cheese Fry”. Basically we just cook all the goodness until folks are full, and then it’s off to bed for the early am launch.

We’re definitely missing the team members who had to head home early, and hope that everyone is warm and dry. Lots of walking left, but we should be at the airstrip tomorrow if all goes according to plan. We’ll check back then!

Cheers,
RMI Guides Garrett Stevens, Tyler Jones, Geoff Schellens and the No Troubles team

RMI Climbers descending above Washburn's Thumb on Mt. McKinley. Photo: RMI Collection

On The Map

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Dave!
I can’t begin to know how you feel about what you’ve accomplished! Can’t wait to see you and hear it all through your eyes. Besides we need you…Tristan… read more

Posted by: Suzanne on 6/23/2014 at 1:34 am

John, so proud of you and the rest of the team, have been helping you along, knew you could do it!  See you soon here in the nice hot valley.… read more

Posted by: Farmor on 6/22/2014 at 6:14 pm


Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team - Patience Delivers the Summit

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens, Geoff Schellens | June 21, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'

June 21, 2014 - 2:56 am PT

Well, you probably heard our summit phone call from earlier today, so this is just the follow-up to that. We had a heck of a day here in the high altitudes of North America, rising from the tents early this morning to cold temperatures, light winds, and high clouds. We decided that it was going to be a day for an attempt, and once we had basked in the sun for a bit we headed over to the shade of the Autobahn. Two hours later we had passed the difficulties of the pickets and the exposure below, and we stepped out around Denali Pass.

The weather was still a bit in and out, but the No Troubles crew was moving well so we kept at it. Up steep rolls, over undulating terrain, and higher and higher we climbed. We passed familiar landmarks as the day went on, like Zebra Rocks, Archdeacon’s Tower, the Football Field, and finally crested onto the summit ridge in cold wind and clear blue skies. Late this afternoon, we reached the highest point on this continent, and emotions ran high as we hugged, high-fived, and snapped photos. Jake’s team came up onto the top just as we were getting ready to head down, and we were thrilled to share that special moment with them.

This team has had a full value experience, especially with all the uncertainty and waiting that we’ve endured. Now it’s time for one last hot drink and then into the bag for a much-deserved rest. Down tomorrow, hopefully the weather holds for a flight soon!

Cheers,

RMI Guides Tyler, Geoff, Garrett and the No Troubles team

Descending the West Buttress on Mt. McKinley. Photo: RMI Collection

On The Map

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Congratulations!!  We were there in ‘96 with RMI in total whiteout.  Enjoy the views!!!

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Posted by: Keith on 6/22/2014 at 7:55 am

Jennifer - Congrats on your successful climb. Jacob

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Posted by: Jacob on 6/22/2014 at 7:21 am


Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Summit!

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens, Geoff Schellens | June 20, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 20,320'

June 20, 2014 - 8:56 pm PT

Hi there, it’s Tyler and team. We are standing on the summit of North America currently with our team. A little bit in the evening around 8 o’clock [Alaska time]. We are out of the wind on our side and it’s sunny, beautiful, and everything is going well. We’ll give you a shout and a little dispatch when we get back to safe and sound to our high camp. Hope everyone’s well. We’re doing great. Thanks for all of the support. Take care you guys. Talk to you soon.

RMI Guide Tyler Jones

The Autobahn from Denali Pass on Mt. McKinley. Photo: Brent Okita The view from the top of Mt. McKinley. Photo: RMI Collection


RMI Guide Tyler Jones call from the Mt. McKinley summit.

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21

Wow! Wow! Wow!  How exciting and what an amazing accomplishment!  I cannot imagine the thrill you must have felt at the summit!  I will keep all in my prayers for… read more

Posted by: Karen Pratte on 6/21/2014 at 8:11 am

Wow! Wow! Wow!  I can’t imagine the thrill that you experienced reaching the summit!  I am so very proud of you…I think you should write a book!!! Be safe on… read more

Posted by: Karen Pratte on 6/21/2014 at 8:00 am


Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Sitting Sassy at Seventeen

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens, Geoff Schellens | June 20, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'

June 19, 2014 - 6:43 pm PT

Today on our next to last day for up hill travel we got the window we needed! The no troubles crew had no trouble with our move, reaching our high camp at 17,200ft! An early departure from our 14K camp meant cold hands and feet as we approached the fixed lines, but by the time we reached our first break the sun had crested the ridge to our south. We basked in the most welcome UV, and continued up to the base of the fixed lines without feeling the bite of the -5F temperatures.

We dispatched the fixed lines without incident, and were soon taking a break in a crisp little nook on the buttress proper. High, wispy clouds took the heat right out of the sun, and the constant winds reminded us of our arctic location. The last little bit of steep fixed line at Washburn’s Thumb posed no issues, and we climbed into some of the most spectacular terrain of the West Buttress.

Steep walls fell away on both sides as we climbed the last stretch into camp, and soon we had reclaimed a couple of tent platforms, set up our shelter and had stoves running for water. The constant burn is a reminder of our high location and is helping to drown out the stiff northeast breeze currently moving through camp.

Tomorrow looks like it’ll be our window for a summit attempt, provided the winds die down and the temperatures stay reasonable. We’re psyched for the camaraderie of sharing camp with Jake Beren’s team, and look forward to being on the route with them tomorrow. Wish us luck!!

Cheers,
RMI Guide Tyler Jones and The No Troubles Team

An RMI team at the top of the Mt. McKinley's fixed lines. Photo: Linden Mallory

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9

Hi Dad!  I really miss you. I have been having trouble sleeping, thinking of you on that cold mountain in an igloo, when I am here in my warm dogloo. … read more

Posted by: Boone Stenderup on 6/20/2014 at 8:18 pm

Hi David J. and the great No Troubles Team! I was so excited today when I saw that you got to 17,000 ft.!!!!! I can’t wait to hear of your… read more

Posted by: Pam Johnson on 6/20/2014 at 7:33 pm


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