Entries By geoff schellens

Mt. Shuksan: SUMMIT!

Posted by: Geoff Schellens | September 04, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *North Cascades
Elevation: 9,127'

12:30 p.m. PST : RMI Guide Geoff Schellens just called into RMI to let everyone know the team reached the summit of Mt. Shuksan at 9,127’!  Geoff Reported that the sky was dark and cloudy with a few sprinkles, but the rocks were relatively dry.  The team has started their descent and will report when they are back their base camp.  The have another day of training planned before heading out of the North Cascade Range on Friday.

Congratulations Team!

Climbing in the North Cascades Range - RMI Photo Collection
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Mt. Shuksan: Schellens and Team Enjoy Better Than Expected Weather

Posted by: Geoff Schellens | September 03, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *North Cascades

September 3, 2013 AM

Hi all!  Kirk, Harry, and I had a very nice hike into the low bivy site on Mt. Shuksan yesterday; partly cloudy, but completely dry.  Last night we had a few light showers and then it opened up on us this morning around 8 - 9 a.m.  It has given us a little reprieve but is now starting to rain again.  We’re relaxing in tents and hoping for another break this afternoon so we can get some training in.  Everyone is in good spirits despite the weather and some wet boots from this mornings rain storm.  Thanks for checking in!

September 3, 2013 PM

Our hopes came true!  The weather broke this afternoon and we were able to get outside and get some training in.  We’re taking a break right now but will head back out and take advantage of the dry weather and train some more.  The forecasts predicts decent weather for tomorrow so we may try to climb.  I’ll keep you posted on our that goes. We’ll check in again tomorrow!

RMI Guide Geoff Schellens

Mt. Shuksan admist the clouds.  Photo: Geoff Schellens
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Mt. Shuksan: Team Schellens Weathers the Weather

Posted by: Geoff Schellens | August 30, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *North Cascades

We were hoping for a break in the weather as today was our last chance for a Mt. Shuksan summit bid, instead we got more rain. It’s one of the dice we roll when spending time in the mountains. Whatever our weather, Joy and Jim are still laughing and having fun.  The rain has been steady all day today and even breakfast had to be made in the vestibule of the tent.  We are hoping to see a weather break or two for our hike out tomorrow.

RMI Guide Geoff Schellens

Mt. Shuksan amidst the clouds. Photo: Geoff Schellens On Mt. Shuksan - View from the tent vestibule. Photo: Geoff Schellens

Mt. Shuksan: Schellens & Team Continue Training in the North Cascades

Posted by: Geoff Schellens | August 28, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *North Cascades

Hi All,
Well, Jim, Joy, and I were hoping to climb Shuksan today but the weather once again thwarted our summit attempt. It rained hard all through the night and intermittently this morning.  We had a nice breakfast between showers and then hopped back in tents for the better part of the morning.  We emerged from our tents around 10:30 to find threatening clouds bearing down on us but as it was not raining at that moment we decided to do some more training.  That has become our motto on this seminar, “Let’s do some training until it starts raining”.  After going through crevasse rescue practice and a lunch break the weather kept holding for us so we got in some great ice climbing and fixed line training. During dinner we watched as the clouds appeared to be breaking up and patches of blue sky made their way towards us.  Tonight we are all sleeping with fingers crossed that we get our chance to climb tomorrow. That’s all for now.  Thanks for checking in.

RMI Guide Geoff Schellens

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Mt. Shuksan: Team Schellens Continues Their Training in the North Cascades

Posted by: Geoff Schellens | August 27, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *North Cascades

Hi all,
Jim, Joy, and I had a great day of training today despite some very ominous looking clouds- the rain held off until about 4 pm.  We did some good crampon review, self-arrest and team-arrest practice, as well as rope travel on glaciers and lastly climbing on rock.  I think Jim and Joy enjoyed the rock climbing practice the most.  Now we are in our tents again waiting for the rain to stop so we can hopefully get an anchor building lesson in before dinner and then bed.  We will try to climb tomorrow if we get the weather for it; otherwise, we have Thursday to fall back on.  We are all having a great time despite the rain, and spirits are still high.  Jim and Joy are laughing right through the bad weather.  That’s all for now.

Thanks for checking in on us.

RMI Guide Geoff Schellens

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Mt. Shuksan: Schellens and team check in

Posted by: Geoff Schellens | August 26, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *North Cascades
Elevation: 6,200'

Hi all
Joy, Jim, and I are enjoying a restful day here at the lower bivy camp (6,200’) on Mt. Shuksan. We have accomplished some training in between showers, spirits are high and everyone is having a good time.  Forced tent time is notorious on any long climb and such skills as “sport eating” and “competitive napping” are worth being good at, and we have practiced both today.  We are hoping for better weather tomorrow for more training and to move camp higher on the mountain.

Thanks to everyone for checking in.
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens

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Mt. Shuksan: Geoff Schellens & Team Begin Their Denali Prep Course

Posted by: Geoff Schellens | August 25, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *North Cascades

Hi all,
Had a great first day on the Mt. Shuksan 6-day Denali Prep course.  Jim and Joy showed up prepared and ready to go.  After a gear check, and another cup of coffee, we headed out of town to the Shannon Ridge trail head.  We started up the trail with sun on our shoulders, laughing about the 30% chance of rain.  After a couple hours hiking we left the trees behind and enjoyed great views of Mt. Baker.  With these views, however, also came the end of our laughter as we noticed dark clouds approaching.  Though we did get a light rain in the last 1/2 hour before getting to the low bivy camp site, we had a great day.  Jim and Joy are in good spirits and staying dry in there tent, currently discussing dinner options.  We’ll see what the weather gods have in store for us tomorrow.

RMI Guide Geoff Schellens


Mt. Rainier: Teams on the Summit August 22nd!

Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Jake Beren | August 22, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climbs for August 19 - 22, 2013 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today.  RMI Guides Jake Beren and Geoff Schellens led the teams.  Jake reported light winds from the Northwest with winds from the East earlier in the climb.  Temperatures were estimated in the low 20s.  The teams began their descent from the crater rim just after 7:30 am.  They will return to Camp Muir for a short break and then continue to Paradise later this afternoon.

We look forward to greeting the teams at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.

Congratulations to today’s summit climb teams!

RMI Teams en route to the summit of Mt. Rainier on August 22nd with a beautiful moon and rising sun.  Photo: Katrina Bloemsma
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North Cascades: Sahale and Shuksan Update

Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Mike Walter | August 18, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *North Cascades

The Sahale Mountain - Quien Sabe Glacier climb led by RMI Guide Geoff Schellens was unable to summit yesterday due to a combination of poor route conditions and poor weather.  The team spent last night at their camp in Boston Basin and are hiking back to the trailhead this morning.

The Mt. Shuksan - Fisher Chimneys team led by Mike Walter was also unable to summit.  Mike reported wet, foggy conditions on the Fisher Chimneys route.  The team team spent last night at their camp on the White Salmon Glacier and are making the four mile hike back to the trailhead this morning.


Mt. Rainier: August 12th Teams Reach Summit!

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Geoff Schellens | August 12, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer and Geoff Schellens led the Four Day Summit Climb to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning.  Pete reported blustery, clear, and cold conditions on the upper mountain.  The teams will spend some time on top before beginning their descent to Camp Muir.  We look forward to seeing the teams in Ashford this afternoon.

Congratulations on a great climb!

An RMI team descending the upper mountain on Mt. Rainier. Photo: RMI Collection
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