Entries By jake beren

Dhaulagiri: RMI Guide Team Checks in from Base Camp

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Jake Beren, Geoff Schellens, Garrett Stevens | April 20, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Guide News
Elevation: 15,584'

Hello, this is the Dhaulagiri climbing team on Sunday, the 20th. First of all we want to apologize for the lack of communication, but we’re having serious problems with our SAT phone and charger and we are trying to solve that problem. We are also saddened by the news that arrived to base camp here of the tragedy on Everest.  We want to send our condolences to the community of the Sherpa involved in this tragedy. Our progress here on the mountain continues. We have been able to reach almost Camp 2. We have been very unlucky with the weather. Until right now we have been the only team on the mountain, but we were able to make a carry to almost Camp 2 and spend a few nights at Camp 1. Right now the weather looks like it is favorable to us and we are hoping to take a few days of rest and make some more progress up high, hopefully getting to Camp 2 or 3 in the next week or so. Getting ready for a future summit push around the beginning of May. So we’ll keep you posted on that and we hope everybody is doing well. We’ll try to keep you posted as much as we can with the limited communications that we have here. Regards to all from Dhaulagiri Base Camp.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos


RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos calls in from Dhaulagiri Base Camp.

Sign Up For Guide News 2014 Email Alerts

1

Please be wise and safe as you make your decisions.  You are loved down here at sea level.

read more

Posted by: nsb on 4/23/2014 at 10:52 am


Dhaulagiri: RMI Guides Spend a Night at Camp 1 and are Back in Basecamp

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Jake Beren, Geoff Schellens, Garrett Stevens | April 12, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Guide News
Elevation: 15,584'

Hello, this is Dhaulagiri climbing team on Saturday, April 12th. We have come back to base camp. We had made a move to Camp 1 and spent last night up there. We were forced to move down because of the bad weather. However that was pretty much the plan after moving up there and caching some gear and spend at least a night for acclimatization. We have about a foot of snow at base camp and we got about 1 1/2 feet at Camp 1 last night. Looks like the trend is going to be like that for the next couple of days and we are going to wait it out down here. We’ll keep you posted on the move. So far the “mountain of storms.” We will see what happens. Hope everyone is doing well and we’ll check in later.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos


Elias de Andres Martos calls in from Dhaulagiri Basecamp.

Sign Up For Guide News 2014 Email Alerts

2

STAY SAFE, my brave caballeros!

read more

Posted by: nsb on 4/18/2014 at 10:35 am

Elias: Fingers crossed that you and your team get some good weather in the coming days. Hang in there!!!

Chris Palmer

read more

Posted by: Chris Palmer on 4/13/2014 at 5:37 pm


Dhaulagiri: RMI Team Making Progress on the Mountain

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Jake Beren, Geoff Schellens, Garrett Stevens | April 10, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Guide News
Elevation: 15,584'

Hello, this is the Dhaulagiri climbing team calling from basecamp on Thursday, the 10th of April. We have been here now for a few days. We made some progress on the mountain.  We’ve moved a couple of caches almost to Camp 1. We have had a few peeks of the mountain, in between a couple of severe storms that have fallen upon us. We were pretty close and a move to Camp 1 has been made. The four of us have acclimatized to that elevation, and we will try to push out there tomorrow and spend a couple of nights. The weather forecast looks favorable to us for the next couple of days. The weather here has been a little weird with really clear mornings and snowstorms pretty much every afternoon, so that has been a little interesting. We are enjoying ourselves pretty well here. Everybody is very healthy and in good spirits. We’ll try to make some progress and spend our first night at altitude. We’ll keep you posted with more once we make that move. We hope you are all doing very, very well. Regards from Nepal.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos


RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos calls in from Dhaulagiri's Basecamp.

Sign Up For Guide News 2014 Email Alerts

2

JAKE!!!!!

read more

Posted by: Mike Poutiatine on 4/10/2014 at 8:59 pm

Daily I am wearing a Tibetan-sourced St. Christopher-like disc to keep you all well and energized for the climbs ahead.  These postings mean the world to me—keep them coming and… read more

Posted by: nsb on 4/10/2014 at 3:56 pm


Dhaulagiri: Elias & Team Check in from Their Approach to Dhaulagiri

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Jake Beren, Geoff Schellens, Garrett Stevens | April 02, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Guide News
Elevation: 12,139'

Hello this the Dhaulagiri team. We are at the end of our fifth day of our approach to base camp at a location called Italian Camp. We are roughly at 3,700 meters. Everything has been pretty good so far. We have had really good weather on the approach. A couple of snow storms at night. The sunshine at this camp is baking us right now.  We are about to have a pretty good meal here. We would like to share also that on the approach, we had a really cool encounter in one of the villages. We shared some of the supplies that we gathered over the last year from supporters who have been pitching in to bring us here. So that was really neat to share these items with a village on our way to Dhaulagiri. Everything is well like I said. We have about two or three more days to get into Base Camp from where we will be checking in once we arrive. So we hope all is well and we will keep you posted. Bye.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos


RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos calls in from Italian Camp.

Sign Up For Guide News 2014 Email Alerts


Dhaulagiri: RMI Guides Start by Meeting with Ms. Hawley, the Bookkeeper

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Jake Beren, Geoff Schellens, Garrett Stevens | March 27, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Guide News

Namaste!

The 2014 Dhaulagiri team has reunited in Kathmandu after the three waves in which all of us arrived. With the last minute of extra food shopping done, we had the mandatory briefing at the ministry of tourism this morning and paid a special visit to Ms. Hawley, the “bookkeeper” of Himalayan climbing. She helped us understand this endeavor even better with some statistics pertinent to our team: among our nationalities, only 14 Americans (2 women) and 28 Spaniards have summited on this mountain with just 300 total ascents. Really exciting!

Tomorrow we fly early morning to Pokhara, and then a six-hour drive will take us to Darbang.  This is the trailhead to our week-long approach to base camp. We’ll check in next from the trails!

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

The RMI Dhaulagiri team meet with Ms. Hawley in Kathmandu. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos

Sign Up For Guide News 2014 Email Alerts

1

We just missed you Dhaulagiri clamberers in Kathmandu.  Best wishes for a safe and fun adventure.  We’ll be following you from the Khumbu.
Dave

read more

Posted by: Dave Hahn on 3/29/2014 at 4:06 am


Aconcagua: Beren and Team Return to Pampa de Llenas

Posted by: Jake Beren, Mike King, Steve Gately | January 07, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Aconcagua
Elevation: 9,000'

After leaving Base Camp yesterday we made the long trek back to Pampa de Llenas where the length of this journey began to sink in.  Many miles of beautiful walking brought us back to our first camp where we were treated to an asado courtesy of our herreros. Grilling over an open fire under the Andean sky we really put the trip to bed in style. Getting to visit with the incoming RMI crew was fun, seeing all those clean faces and knowing that we were just a few hours from a shower ourselves. 

Thanks to a wonderful crew for a great trip and can’t wait to see everyone in the mountains soon!

Jake Beren & Team

Looking toward Pampa de Llenas, RMI Photo Collection

Sign Up For Aconcagua 2014 Email Alerts

4

Enjoy the rest of your journey team Be safe & what an accomplishment

read more

Posted by: Lise on 1/8/2014 at 7:00 am

The skill of a great pilot is proven only when the plane lands its passengers safely back on the runway. Same with mountain guides.

Nice job Steve and team. It… read more

Posted by: Bill Gately on 1/8/2014 at 6:03 am


Aconcagua: Beren & Team Descend to Plaza Argentina

Posted by: Jake Beren, Mike King, Steve Gately | January 05, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Aconcagua
Elevation: 13,800'

Waking once the sun began to warm the tents was a welcome treat at 19,600 feet. Having that last cup of coffee in the rarified air of high camp before packing up and starting the beautiful and lengthy descent really let the last few weeks settle in. We have climbed on the highest mountain outside of Asia and now turn the skiff towards home. It is this point of the trip where we get to see how far out we’ve gone because there is no more out to go, just back. Retracing our steps back home will take a few days and is a wonderful way to let this adventure sink in. See you all soon!

RMI Guide Jake Beren

Sunset at Aconcagua Base Camp. Photo: Garrett Stevens

On The Map

Sign Up For Aconcagua 2014 Email Alerts

8

To Bill and the team - what an amazing accomplishment! This is something to remember for the rest of your lives..Congratulations and safe travels onward..
Carol (Rita, and Bill)

read more

Posted by: Carol on 1/6/2014 at 12:07 pm

Great job, to the team and to my friend Monica.  I can’t begin to understand how amazing that accomplishment must feel.  Have a great trek down the mountain and stay… read more

Posted by: Ivory on 1/6/2014 at 11:33 am


Aconcagua: Beren & Team Recap Summit Day

Posted by: Jake Beren, Mike King, Steve Gately | January 05, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Aconcagua
Elevation: 19,600'

Lying in the tent, legs sore but oddly relaxed, it seems hard to believe that we climbed Aconcagua today. This morning we launched before dawn, making our way higher and higher into the troposphere as the rising sun cast a shadow of our mountain deep into the Andes. Everyone on the team got a chance to test their limits today and I’m proud of everyone’s effort. It takes a few weeks to get to where you can try to stand on top and everyone’s hard work really paid off with a safe day in the mountains. Good work team and thanks to all the wonderful people back home for their support. 

RMI Guide Jake Beren

High Camp on Aconcagua, 19,600 ft.  Photo: RMI Collection

On The Map

Sign Up For Aconcagua 2014 Email Alerts

6

Good Job Bill Dorn!!!

read more

Posted by: Marshall Woodford on 1/6/2014 at 11:32 am

You guys are great. Thanks to the guides for getting everybody up there. Bill is coming home soon… I guess I have to start cleaning the house again.

read more

Posted by: Norm Vork on 1/5/2014 at 6:51 pm


Aconcagua: Beren & Team Summit!

Posted by: Jake Beren, Mike King, Steve Gately | January 04, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Aconcagua
Elevation: 22,841'

Greetings from Camp 3 on Aconcagua. Our team just returned after a successful summit bid with some happy and tired faces. We are looking forward to a little bit of dinner and some much needed rest before we start heading down, down, down tomorrow. All is well out here. Thanks for all the good wishes back home and we’ll talk to you guys further on down the trail.

RMI Guide Jake Beren

Looking up towards the Canaleta, just below Aconcagua's summit. Photo: RMI Collection


Jake Beren calls in after the team's successful summit.

On The Map

Sign Up For Aconcagua 2014 Email Alerts

12

Bravo!  Bravissimo!  A glorious day’s work.  Rest up and have a safe descent.

read more

Posted by: nsb on 1/5/2014 at 12:01 pm

Monica and team, congratulations on the successful summit!! So happy for you all! Safe descent, see you soon!

read more

Posted by: Leslie M on 1/5/2014 at 11:10 am


Aconcagua: Beren & Team Make Their Move to High Camp

Posted by: Jake Beren, Mike King, Steve Gately | January 03, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Aconcagua
Elevation: 19,600'

Greetings from high camp at 19,600 ft!  Today we made use of a good forecast and the first break in the wind in recent memory to move up. Now we are in striking distance of the top, getting ready for dinner before an early bedtime. The team again performed well getting here and if this calm weather holds, we will go for the top tomorrow!  We’ve enjoyed everyone’s comments and the crew is in great spirits having put forth an impressive effort so far. With any luck we will only head uphill for one more day before starting the long return to Mendoza. Wish us luck!

RMI Guide Jake Beren

Views of the Andes while approaching High Camp on Aconcagua. Photo: RMI Collection

On The Map

Sign Up For Aconcagua 2014 Email Alerts

25

Go, Bill, Go.  Amazing.  Can’t wait to hear all about it!

read more

Posted by: Sylvia Stanley on 1/4/2014 at 7:30 pm

Go for it Bill.  Good luck

read more

Posted by: steve on 1/4/2014 at 7:19 pm


More Entries