Entries By jake beren

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climbs Reach the Summit!

Posted by: Win Whittaker, Jake Beren | July 09, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb teams led by RMI Guides Win Whittaker and Jake Beren reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning.  The teams reported clear skies, light winds and pleasant temperatures. They began their descent from the crater rim after 7 a.m. PT.  The teams will return to Camp Muir (10,060’) for a short break and then continue down to Paradise (5,400’) this afternoon.

RMI Guide Kel Rossiter and the Expedition Skills Seminar – Emmons team called from Camp Schurman.  They reported good conditions and great weather. The team made their summit attempt today and reached 13,500’ but decided to call that their high point and return to camp.  The team will spend tonight on the mountain with some additional time for training.  They will break camp tomorrow morning, descend to the trail head and return to Rainier BaseCamp in Ashford in the late afternoon.

Congratulations to today’s climbing teams!

The sunrise on July 9, 2013 as seen from Mt. Rainier.  Photo: Win Whittaker  Climbers on the Four Day Summit Climb July 6-9, 2013 en route to the summit of Mt. Rainier.  Photo: Win Whittaker
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Mt. Rainier: July 5th Update - Summit!

Posted by: Jake Beren, Eric Frank, Seth Waterfall | July 05, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

Today’s Four Day Summit Climbs led by Jake Beren and Eric Frank reached the Mt. Rainier summit this morning.  The teams are currently descending to Camp Muir and will be in Ashford later this afternoon. The Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz led by Seth Waterfall is descending to Paradise after their successful summit yesterday.  His team took a photo before they left their camp this morning (below).

Congratulations to today’s summit climbers!

A beautiful day on Mt. Rainier with the Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz team. Photo: Seth Waterfall
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Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Finish Their Expedition

Posted by: Jake Beren, Josh Maggard, Leon Davis | June 20, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 358'

Thursday, June 20, 2013
The lower glacier was fully covered in fog when we turned in last night and to our surprise it had cleared completely by the time we decided to walk. The early morning light on the surrounding mountains and the waxing moon in the purple sky made an absolutely surreal walk out of the range. The team finished very strong, hitting the runway in style in the morning just as a pair of Otters hit the upper strip. Now in Talkeetna, the team is enjoying the comforts of reentry and in a few hours we are going to enjoy a big meal cooked over something more refined than a camp stove. What a treat!
  It is hard to believe that we are back in town already. Enjoying nearly perfect weather and a very strong team, we were able to take advantage of the weather windows and climb the route entirely by ourselves in quite reasonable conditions. Additionally if there was ever a team to handle some downtime and extra rest days with quality conversation, this was it. Yet the weather smiled upon us and our training and strength as a team really came together for an efficient ascent with great folks. Thanks again to everyone on the team for really rising to the challenge of Denali and matching themselves perfectly to their environment for a safe, successful climb. It has been a pleasure.

RMI Guide Jake Beren

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Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Head Down to 11 Camp

Posted by: Jake Beren, Leon Davis, Josh Maggard | June 20, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

Wednesday, June 19, 2013
Well the wind finally died down yesterday afternoon and instead of hightailing it out of 17 Camp, we chose to relax and enjoy where a few weeks work can put you. It was a gorgeous day to rest and recover and truly enjoy the place we had spent so much time and energy getting to and have the recent memory of our time on top fresh in our minds.

This morning we made a move down the mountain and retraced our steps down the West Buttress towards the fixed lines and 14 Camp. Few teams were out and about, mostly holding tight due to the higher summit winds and we rolled into 14 Camp to find that our kind friends with RMI McKinley Team # 6 had helped us out by digging up our cache. Thanks a bunch guys, so nice to have friends out here.

After increasing our pack weights, we headed down to 11 Camp and had some grub before catching a few winks. Soon we will hit the glacier for our final approach to the Kahiltna BC and see if we can high five RMI McKinley Team #7 and hop in a warm seat for the return to “civilization.”  It has been a fantastic trip and we’ve still got one more day to go, but we’re certainly in no rush to leave this beautiful place and wonderful team.

RMI Guide Jake Beren

An RMI Team camped at 11,200 ft on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Collection

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Mt. McKinley: Jake Beren & Team Rest & Refuel at 17,000’ Camp

Posted by: Jake Beren, Leon Davis, Josh Maggard | June 18, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 17,000'

Tuesday, June 18 , 2013
What a day yesterday was!  We were the only team to climb our route and truly enjoyed having the whole day to ourselves. It was a touch windy, but with warm air temps, it was perfectly manageable. The team climbed strong and stood on top in the afternoon with perfect visibility were treated to spectacular views the whole way up. The summit day is only possible with a combination of factors all coming together and we did a great job matching ourselves to the mountain. Bravo everyone!

Today really makes our call to go for it yesterday seem like the right one. The wind picked up last night and has been blowing hard ever since. We have been hanging out and resting at 17 camp and once the wind dies down we will tackle the Buttress and start the cruise home. We are going to wait a bit and maybe take off tomorrow after this spike in wind speed. For now we could use the rest after a few huge days.
 
Looking forward to seeing everyone as soon as Denali grants us safe passage.

RMI Guides Jake, Leon, and Josh

Looking down to 14,000' Camp on Denali - RMI Photo Collection

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Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Return to High Camp

Posted by: Jake Beren, Leon Davis, Josh Maggard | June 18, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'

Monday, June 17, 2013
Hello everyone.  We made it back to camp after a good day of climbing. Everybody is safe and sound. We’re just finishing up a little dinner before turning in for a little bit. Looks like we just beat the storm. We’ll move a little lower tomorrow. That’s all for now.

RMI Guide Jake Beren

An RMI team descending from the summit. Photo: Seth Waterfall


RMI Guide Jake Beren checks in after their successful summit.

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Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Summit!

Posted by: Jake Beren, Leon Davis, Josh Maggard | June 17, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 20,320'

Monday, June 17, 2013
Hello, this is Jake with RMI #5 standing on top of Denali with an awesome crew on an absolutely beautiful day.  We’ll give a shout when we get down but it doesn’t get too much better than this. Thanks everybody for the support, and will be checking in from down low. Over and out.

RMI Guide Jake Beren

The view from the top of Mt. McKinley. Photo: RMI Collection


RMI Guide Jake Beren calls from the Mt. McKinley summit!

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Mt. McKinley: Beren’s Team at High Camp

Posted by: Jake Beren, Leon Davis, Josh Maggard | June 16, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'

Sunday, June 16th, 2013
Holy cow we made it up!  Leaving early, we passed RMI 4 at the base of the fixed lines, high fiving as we continued our climb. The team did a remarkable job making it to high camp in fine time. The West Buttress proper is the most fun part of the route and earns the namesake title. We cruised up to our cache at the base of Washburn’s Thumb and barely slowed down with the extra weight. Arriving at camp didn’t even require a coat once we stopped. The weather is perfect now and all we need is one more day and I’m sure the team will make it to the top. We are ready to outchill weather if it comes, but hopefully we can get one more day of this fantastic weather. Send us all good weather vibes if you please and we will check in tomorrow.

RMI Guide Jake Beren

A view up the fixed lines. Photo: Katy Reid

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Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Travel the Fixed Lines to Washburn’s Thumb

Posted by: Jake Beren, Leon Davis, Josh Maggard | June 16, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

Saturday, June 15th, 2013
Big day here on Denali. A big congrats to Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens and crew for a job well done going to the top!  We didn’t lounge around ourselves and made an early bid for our cache at Washburn’s Thumb. The team handled the fixes lines very well and we made great time up to 16,400 feet under perfect climbing conditions. It was a great day to enjoy the views and we relaxed up high before hitting the sauna on our way down. It was HOT and we were sure glad to be on our way back to camp by the time the temperatures peaked.

Naps followed our work day and we are tentatively optimistic that we will be able to move higher tomorrow and get in position to put all the hard work and experience to the test in the next few days. Keep some fingers crossed for us friends, we’re gonna need some good weather for a few days.

Over and out.

RMI Guide Jake Beren

RMI Climbers Descending Above Washburn's Thumb. Photo: RMI Collection

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Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Enjoy Their Rest Day

Posted by: Jake Beren, Leon Davis, Josh Maggard | June 14, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

Friday, June 14, 2013
It sure felt nice for the team to get a little extra time in sleeping bags this morning before an epic pancake and bacon breakfast. Then it was off to practice for the fixed lines and Autobahn just outside of camp. The team is primed and ready for moving up on the mountain, skills sharp and energy high. After a siesta, we will take a stroll over to the Edge of the World and take in the sights nearly 7,000 feet down the NE Fork o the Kahiltna before dinner. Not a bad day up here at all.

RMI Guide Jake Beren

View from the Edge of the World, outside of 14,200' Camp. Photo: Lindsay Mann

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