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Entries By mark tucker

Mt. Everest: Resting, Playing Games and Watching the Weather

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Mark Tucker, Seth Waterfall | May 11, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 17,575'

Another quiet but interesting day at Basecamp.  Everything seems a little different now with the news that climbers made the top yesterday… And indeed, a few more went there today if the radio grapevine is correct.  The mountain is not impossible. But we do hope those most recent summit climbers got down fast, since by late afternoon we’ve experienced a thunderstorm and a few inches of quick new snow. And that roar is back… The one that sounds like Niagara Falls as a ribbon of the jet stream does battle with the parts of these mountains that dare to stand out and in the way.

We are all watching weather and weather forecasts now and there is plenty of interest in the calendar.  Many climbers are still down-valley taking a vacation, but they are starting to trickle back by helicopter and by foot with summit dates in mind.  Some are packing bags and heading up in the next day or two.

We are biding our time.  Waiting out the cough.  Hiking and exploring and playing games in camp.  We’ll have to pick summit departure days soon enough, but for now it just isn’t right for our team.  We get a little anxious to know that the route is open, but we also know that it wouldn’t be a bad thing to let a few hundred other climbers have their way with it first.  Things get a little warmer with each passing day in May and we hold out hope that calmer days materialize.  And we cross our fingers that cyclone O1B -spinning menacingly down in the Bay of Bengal- fizzles out and finds a place to go that doesn’t interfere with climbers… or with humanity in general.

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Mt. Everest: The Team is Amidst the Waiting Game

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall, Mark Tucker | May 09, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 17,575'

We’re squarely in the middle of the waiting game here at Everest Basecamp.  The big teams have assembled a few strong guys who are working on fixing the ropes to the summit today and tomorrow.  Once those are in then it’s all a matter of time until we get a good weather window for the summit bid.

As for us we’re healing up and feeling rested for the push for the top.  We’re giving the weather forecast more and more scrutiny every day and the tick marks on the calendar are starting to add up.  It shouldn’t be too much longer now.

RMI Guide Seth Waterfall

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Mt. Everest: RMI Sherpa Team to the South Col

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall, Mark Tucker | May 08, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 17,575'

An easy day for the climbing team at Basecamp… Those without coughs went on big hikes, those with coughs went on lesser walks.  By contrast, our Sherpa team went for a much more significant and ambitious journey.  Tshering, Gylgen and Kaji carried loads from ABC all the way to the South Col, establishing high camp at close to 26,000 ft.  They then returned to ABC, and now, in late afternoon, along with Lam Babu and Yubaraj, they are descending to Basecamp.  That is what we call a big day in the Himalaya.

Unfortunately, there is a somber feeling once again around the mountain.  Another tragic fall occurred yesterday, killing a climber on the Lhotse Face.  It isn’t our place to divulge details and I don’t wish to try to sensationalize Everest climbing by exploiting such sadness, but I’ll mention the incident in order to give proper credit to those who worked hard to make a bad situation better.  Lam Babu was one of those who rushed up to the scene to render aid and who helped with the difficult job of retrieving the victim’s body which they then transported to ABC.  Today, a helicopter pilot finished the job with another daring high altitude retrieval from 21,300 ft… making what was once phenomenal seem sadly routine, but in the process saving many climbers from the very difficult and dangerous task of carrying the victim down through the Khumbu Icefall.

Tonight, our entire team will be together and safe in Basecamp.

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Mt. Everest: RMI Sherpa Team Sets up Camp 3, South Col Carry is Next

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall, Mark Tucker | May 07, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 17,575'

Today our Sherpa team secured prime real estate at Camp 3. The super Sherpa chopped away ice for a nice flat platform and supplied, but did not set up the tent. It is best to wait till the day the team is ready to use the tent; otherwise, the elements may damage or blow the unoccupied tent away.

Sherpa plan to carry loads to the South Col tomorrow; these guys are tough.

The climbing team is getting some exercise around Basecamp by day hiking, golfing, and playing horseshoes. 

RMI Guide Mark Tucker

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Mt. Everest: RMI Sherpa Team Left BC to Begin Establishing Camp 3

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall, Mark Tucker | May 06, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 17,575'

Lam Babu and our all-star Sherpa team were walking out of Basecamp by 4 this morning, bound for Advanced Basecamp (ABC).  Their plan is to use the days ahead to establish Camp III on the Lhotse Face and to begin carries to the South Col.  It is a good plan and works well with the climbing team intention to head up for a last “practice” rotation on the hill, sleeping as high as Camp III.

We were going for that last difficult push starting tomorrow, but have now reconsidered.  A cough has taken precedence, as coughs sometimes do in the month of May on Mount Everest.  We’ve worked with this particular cough for weeks already and have no fondness for it.  The judgement call has come down to: sleep at 24,000 ft, gaining valuable experience in a tough environment while coming down in time for a last rest before the summit bid… Or get healthy and banish the cough before trying for the top.

Get Healthy won out.

We’ll stay down while the Sherpa team is up this time (they’ll be back to BC in a few days).  We’ll put a priority on getting the climbing team strong and we’ll contend with a longer-than-expected rest while carefully examining weather reports… On the lookout for a suitable “window” between the Jetstream and the Monsoon.

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Mt. Everest:  Preparations Underway for Last Rotation

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall, Mark Tucker | May 05, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 17,575'

Cinco de Mayo and we are here with some nachos.  No Margaritas, that will be later.  Perfect weather, another beautiful day.  Lots of prep work for the upcoming rotation.  We took out the oxygen masks and regulators.  They may use them if a night at Camp 3 becomes available.  So important to double check the equipment before sending it up the hill.  Our whole Sherpa team will start out early in the AM for Camp 2 and stay up there until Camp 3 is built and loads are in place at Camp 4.  The Sherpa team is such a great group of men, we cannot thank them enough for all their help.

The climbing team will rest one more day, then head up for the final rotation before the summit push.  Dave and Seth have been doing fine work of all the details, what a couple of super guides we have leading this Expedition.

A big shout out to Karla, Happy B-Day!

Mt. Everest Basecamp Manager Mark Tucker

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Mt. Everest:  The Team Preps for Next Rotation

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall, Mark Tucker | May 04, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 17,575'

It’s a beautiful day here at Everest Bascamp (EBC)!  By that I mean its not snowing or windy, yet.  We’re taking full advantage by eating our fill, relaxing and doing some laundry.  It’s all part of the prep for our next rotation up on the mountain.

The past week at Advanced Basecamp (ABC) was a great foundation for our acclimatization and the best part was getting on the Lhotse Face.  After all these weeks of prep it was great to feel like we were on a mountain as opposed to being down amongst the mountains.  Our next trip up will be more of a test to see how our conditioning is holding up.  But for now we’re resting.

RMI Guide Seth Waterfall

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Mt. Everest:  Rest Day at Everest Basecamp

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall, Mark Tucker | May 03, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 17,575'

It is tough to realize just how hard Everest is on the human body until one comes back down to “normal” altitudes like 17,500 ft Basecamp.  The first night of deep sleep convinces you that whatever you thought you were doing for twelve hours a night at 21,300 ft was not actually sleep.  A plate of breakfast that you actually want seconds on makes you think of how easy the mountain would be to climb if you could have had your normal appetite up at ABC.

Life is easy for us today at Basecamp.  Chairs with backs to lean against.  Oxygen and air pressure in abundance.  Cellphone connectivity.  Showers and mostly clean clothes.  And very little risk for a change… Unlike looking forward to a day on the Lhotse Face or a morning in the Khumbu Icefall.  Not so much can fall on us on our rest day and we aren’t likely to step on anything that collapses without warning.

Lots of good things about life at Basecamp... once the morning flurry of helicopter flights is finished, there is peace and quiet and a billion dollar set of views out every tent door.  Today the views included jet stream winds raking the upper Lhotse Face, driving snow a thousand feet higher than the mountain itself.  We are catching up on the news and trying to beat Mark Tucker at a game or two, but he has all of the advantages while our brains are still fuzzy and our bodies are tired.  Tomorrow.

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Mt. Everest: The Team Arrives Back in Basecamp after 2nd Rotation

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall, Mark Tucker | May 02, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 17,575'

Hello All,

This is Mark Tucker from Everest Basecamp! The boys are back in town. The team just returned from their rotation up high and their timing was perfect as usual. No sooner did they arrive here at Basecamp than it began snowing and blowing. The weather is not conducive to it being a shower day but tomorrow may provide suitable conditions. In other positive news the rope fixing team made it to the South Col so the flood gates, and the route to the upper mountain, are open. A bit of the Jet stream is in the neighborhood for the next few days but the push for rope fixing to the summit is in the works. The RMI climbing team is enjoying the thick air, seats with backs, and great food. Let the rest phase begin.

RMI Guide Mark Tucker

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Mt. Everest: Sherpa Make Good Progress Building Route Beyond Camp 3

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall, Mark Tucker | April 29, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 21,300'

Hello, Dave Hahn calling down from Advanced Basecamp in the fog, 21,300’.  Today was a beautiful day.  Significant to us, in that a combination team of climbers building the route on the Lhotse Face succeeded in getting as far as Camp 3 and perhaps even a little bit beyond that.  Fixing rope up the steep and icy Lhotse Face.  We didn’t want to get in the way of that today.  We actually hiked up to about 22,000’, towards the west shoulder. Certainly not all the way to the west shoulder, which is about 25,000’ in some very steep, hard ice in that direction.  But the part we could do today made for a nice hike and gave us a great view off the Western Cwm. Pretty amazing.  With the exception of the snow that fell last week, it just doesn’t appear to be any snow left over from the monsoon or the winter.  Just bare ice up in this upper valley, and these glaciers are continuing to take a beating.  On the good side, our Sherpa team, Tshering, Gyaljen, and Kaji, they successfully made a carry up here today, to ABC, carrying oxygen bottles for the summit bid.  And then the three of them and Lam Babu, went back down to Basecamp.  It’s just myself, Dan, Seth and Yubaraj up here at ABC.  All is well.  Bye now.

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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