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Mt. Everest: Due to Collapse in the Icefall, Team Delays Camp One Rotation

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall, Mark Tucker | April 17, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 17,575'

We were all keyed up and ready to climb last night.  Dinner was eaten with a sense of purpose, figuring we’d burn thousands of calories going up the Khumbu Icefall and living at Camp One.  Each climber turned in carefully, arranging every piece of gear just so for a cold pre-dawn start.  And we were up at 4 AM getting boots tied and helmets on when the word came down of a collapse in the middle of the Icefall.  We could then see the parade of Sherpa headlights in the lower half of the Icefall… all going the wrong way.  Down.  Chherring and Gyalgen from our own team had radioed down to say that the route was impassible and that the midsection of the climb would need special attention -new ladders and fixed rope- from the Icefall Doctors.  The coffee was hot and our pre-climb breakfast of boiled eggs and porridge was on, so we sat down together anyway and tried to get used to the idea that we weren’t going up.  No great physical and mental test to pass after all.  Until tomorrow.  It was with an odd mix of emotions that we each then went back to bed for a few hours.  The next time we rose and had breakfast, around 8 AM, a thin blanket of fresh snow had somehow fallen on the tents.  It was calm and sunny and the Icefall was unnaturally free of visible climber traffic.  After this breakfast, we took our smartphones out to the medial moraine to connect with the world and to read the sad news coming from Boston.  We then took a quiet hike down glacier, pioneering our way back across through the gleaming pinnacles of ice until we could reach the well-traveled lateral moraine that is the main foot/hoof path into Basecamp.  We passed teams in mid-Puja and tent after tent after tent and basecamp after basecamp… everybody is here now.  We don’t actually know the number of climbers assembled, but it must be another record season from the looks of things.  Most eyes today were focused upward and hopes were pinned on the Ice Docs finding some new way through the heart of the glacier.

We’ll try again tomorrow.

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Mt. Everest: Team Ready for First Camp 1 Rotation

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall, Mark Tucker | April 16, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Guide News *Everest
Elevation: 17,575'

Mark Tucker here at Everest Basecamp (EBC).  Home away from home.  I recently completed an Everest Basecamp Trek and Island Peak climb. Always a pleasure to share this amazing place with adventure travelers.  I had a great time.  Hope the return home for my team went smooth.  Thank you all.

Back at EBC, I am settling in.  Getting organized is always a bit of work but much appreciated as our team’s prepare for the rotations to the upper camps.  Now that the organizing is done, I opened up the local grocery store for the team. They went shopping for their food to be consumed at Camp 1 on their upcoming nights.  They plan to head full force thru the Icefall in the early AM, looking at three nights on the hill.  The team looks great, ready to get into meat of the climb. We did take time out to build the horseshoe pits and get in a couple games.  Burrito night tonight.  A favorite meal here at EBC.

RMI Guide Mark Tucker

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Mt. Everest: Preparing for First Rotation to Camp 1

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall, Mark Tucker | April 15, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 17,575'

We’re on a well-deserved rest day today at Basecamp.  Yesterday we did our last turn up in the Khumbu Icefall before we push on to Camp 1.  The cool and cloudy weather we’ve been having is supposed to clear with light winds so that should work in our favor.

Dave went up to Camp 1 this morning with our Sherpa crew to get our camp location dialed in. Once we pick a day, we’ll head on up for our first rotation.

Here’s a photo I snapped in the ‘popcorn’ section of the Icefall yesterday.

RMI Guide Seth Waterfall

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Mt. Everest: Happy Nepali New Year!

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall, Mark Tucker | April 14, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 17,575'

Dress Rehearsal Day.  We were up at 4 AM, breakfasting by 4:15 and throwing on our packs about an hour later.  By the time we were getting our crampons on, it was just lit enough that we no longer needed the headlights.  The goal today was a “practice run” up to the midway point of the Khumbu Icefall route.  We were lucky in that there was very little traffic on the route this morning.  Blame that on the New Year’s observances, I suppose, but it all worked well for us.  We moved up through the “first ladders” area and then up the steep and airy “popcorn” section.  The word last week was that the route had initially been established with only one ladder… but without a doubt we went up and over at least fifteen ladders to the halfway mark.  The glacier is on the move, with the route consequently changing a little every day.  We had a quick snack in the morning shadows at the “Dum” short for the “gear dump” which used to be a halfway camp and or gear staging area in the mid point of the Icefall.  Then it was down… carefully, since every cramponed boot needed to be placed exactly to avoid drop offs and crevasses.  We did quick arm rappels down one little ice wall after another until we were able to get down below the first ladders and out of the zone where we were endangered by ice over our heads and voids under our feet.  Life got better then.  We were back to Basecamp for lunch and afternoon naps.

In the afternoon, the sky clouded up and it appeared to be snowing on the upper halves of all the big peaks.  At three I went to the first meeting of team leaders.  It was something of a reunion since everybody there was an Everest repeat offender.  We tried to hammer out a few details about radio frequencies and placements for rescue gear, among other things.

It turned into a good afternoon for hiding in tents, but that was fine.  We did good outside work in the morning.

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Mt. Everest: Mark Tucker Joins Team at Basecamp

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall, Mark Tucker | April 13, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 17,575'

Rest day for our entire team today.  The Sherpas were certainly entitled to one after their big day going to Camp II and back.  And for the rest of us, it has been several days back-to-back of hikes and training.  Time to slow it down, catch up on food, hydration and rest.  And of course, hygiene.  Today was shower day… we’ve got a little on-demand propane burning water heater rigged up on a shower tent that does the trick nicely.  Not every day, of course, because propane isn’t exactly naturally occurring in this valley, and because getting water just where you want it to be is rather labor intensive, as well.  But every now and then it is oh so nice to get clean again.

Just before lunch, Mark Tucker made it into camp, fresh from Island Peak and another full circuit of the route to Lukla.  So with our Basecamp manager on scene, the entire team is now assembled.

The climbers are getting gear ready for a “dress rehearsal” in the Icefall tomorrow, a practice run to the halfway point.  The Sherpas are getting ready for a holiday… Nepali New Year tomorrow.  To help with the festive atmosphere, Seth and I gave out brand new RMI uniform gear: Eddie Bauer First Ascent climbing clothing for the staff.

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Everest Base Camp Trek & Island Peak Climb: Tucker & Team Return to Lukla

Posted by: Mark Tucker | April 07, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest BC Trek
Elevation: 9,350'

Hello Everyone.

We were foot soldiers today,  we marched our way into Lukla in great style. The last hour is all up hill,a nice pump to finish the day. Doctor Scholl’s was our best friend. A bit of overcast kept the temperature just right for this lowland trek, 10,000 ft. After about three weeks in this land of giant mountains, for some, it’s time to hit the beach. I could call this one heck of a fishing trip. We all received a license, no poachers, played by the rules. We casted our lines, used every trick in the book. Caught some big ones and a trophy for a few. We all leave with more experience and respect for this type of event in our lives. The Dudh river, a constant companion on the hike out,loads of blooming rhododendron a nice farewell. Always a pleasure to work with High Altitude Dreams our local outfitter. The team from the states way to go! Hope to have another chance to play with you all in my office soon.

Thank you all out in cyber land for following this trip, get out while you can. I will start working my way back to the Big E and blog ya later.

RMI Guide Mark Tucker

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Everest Base Camp Trek & Island Peak Climb: Tucker & Team Return to Namche

Posted by: Mark Tucker | April 06, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest BC Trek
Elevation: 11,300'

A nice 10 mile plus or minus hike from Chu Kung today. Not quite sure how there can be so much uphill on a descent, who built these trails anyway? Happy to be back here in Namche at the Campo de Base tea house. If you ever are in the area, this is the place to stay. Very friendly staff, comfortable rooms and Hot Hot showers!
We saw a couple of Everest teams on the way today. We had a nice chat with some old friends and made plans for future meetings at Basecamp. We will check out of the park in the morning and finalize our permits regarding the Island Peak climb. The infrastructure is a bit crude but it is so important to keep trying to have an eye on this truly amazing part of the world.

The sky was a bit hazy today but a nice temperature for the trek out. A few of the hillsides had a large number of rhododendron trees flowering, it is so nice to be back in the living zone of the Earth’s dirt.

RMI Guide Mark Tucker

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Everest Base Camp Trek & Island Peak Climb: Tucker & Team Headed for Namche

Posted by: Mark Tucker | April 05, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest BC Trek
Elevation: 15,514'

Mark Tucker here, calling from Chukung.  My third attempt coming outside here. The satellites have not been too nice to me tonight. Ch-ch-chilly.  So we had an unbelievable day.  Just everything was going at us.  We gave a great shot going for the summit.  We were a little bit shy.  But we had an awesome time!  That mountain is incredible.  And we’re all down safe and sound.  A lot of our staff is going to go to the right and we are going left, headed to Namche tomorrow.  It is cold out tonight.  Everybody’s happy and we’re doing well.  We’ll check in again.

RMI Guide Mark Tucker

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Everest Base Camp Trek & Island Peak Climb: Tucker & Team Fired Up for Summit Bid

Posted by: Mark Tucker | April 04, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest BC Trek
Elevation: 18,372'

Mark Tucker here at high camp of Island Peak. Hands are freezing but the rest of me is pretty good.  We are situated a couple hundred feet below 18,000 feet.  We got a bit to go but we’re in good shape.  Have the tents up.  Actually have a small kitchen tent where our Nepali staff is making us some fresh momos.  He has a rolling pin out, had the flour going, cooking up the vegetables.  We’re roughing it but its still reasonably comfortable.  Having aghast. We’ve got peaks above, ice, rock every where.  Ocean below, giant peaks peaking out of the clouds, and yes, a bit chilly.  I’m sure we’re going to be in for it tonight when it comes to the cold but lots of layers and keep moving should do the trick.  So we’re planning to start looking at the weather at 1 am, hopefully moving by 2ish and route sounds like it’s in pretty good shape.  So if things go right, we’re going to get on top of this thing and make a call to y’all.  We’re going to error on the side of smart and conservative, not push too hard, but give it a gosh darn good effort..  So we’re looking forward to it, all fired up and can’t wait to report in again.

RMI Guide Mark Tucker

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Everest Base Camp Trek & Island Peak Climb: Tucker & Team at Island Peak Basecamp

Posted by: Mark Tucker | April 03, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest BC Trek
Elevation: 16,685'

Mark Tucker here calling from Island Peak Basecamp. Had a wonderful stay at the resort in Chukung.  Great evening, kind fellowship with other climbers from around the world. The hike up here took about 3 hours, and did very well and greeted by a staff that we’ve had in place.  They’ve been here for few days, great dining and kitchen area, wonderful food, tents already set up. What a lap of luxury we walked right into.  We did a couple hikes today to keep the blood flowing.  The team is doing very well.  Planning tomorrow to finalize details, get some gear sorted, and then we’re gonna ship up to High Camp and get ourselves ready for the summit push tomorrow in the late evening.  So the deal is on, we’re doing great, and we’ll talk to you later.

RMI Guide Mark Tucker

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