Entries By mike haugen

Mt. Rainier: Summit Climb Teams on Top!

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Pete Van Deventer | July 22, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

Both the Four and Five Day Mt. Rainier Summit Climb teams tagged the top!  RMI Guides Mike Haugen and Pete Van Deventer reported a sleet/snow mix and moderate winds.  At 8:45 a.m. they radioed basecamp to say they are beginning their descent.

RMI climbers on the upper flanks of Mt. Rainier. Photo: Ed Viesturs
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Congratulations Pete on yet another Rainier summit - What was this # 400 ? ! :)...Best + Bless…Waltero…Spain and 500 miles of El Camino in Sept

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Posted by: waltero glover on 7/23/2014 at 3:22 am


Mt. Rainier: Climbing Teams on the Summit!

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Tyler Reid | July 18, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Paradise led by RMI Guide Mike Haugen reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today.  The team spent several nights on the mountain training for their summit attempt on Rainier and gaining knowledge and experience for future climbs.  Today is the sixth and final day of this program putting their new skills to use.

RMI Guide Tyler Reid led the Four Day Summit Climb to the summit this morning.  As of 7:30 am both teams were at the top of Disappointment Cleaver on their descent.  It’s a bluebird day on Mt. Rainier, clear skies and warm temperatures.  The teams will return to Camp Muir for a short break before continuing to Paradise.

We look forward to seeing both teams at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.  Congratulations to today’s climbing teams!


Mt. Rainier: Teams on the Summit!

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Geoff Schellens | July 11, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Mike Haugen along with the Expedition Skills Seminar - Paradise led by Geoff Schellens reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning.  As of 7 am both teams were on their descent and approaching the top of Disappointment Cleaver en route back to Camp Muir.
Conditions are beautiful this morning with warm temperatures and light winds reported from Camp Muir (10,080’).

Congratulations to today’s climbing teams!

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Congratulations team. I was so intent on getting my post climb comma sleep I did not get to say a proper good by to you all. It was a pleasure… read more

Posted by: David Fruin on 7/12/2014 at 6:58 am

Helen and Roger, I hope you are having the time of your life. I’ve been thinking about you and praying for your safety. Stay warm and I am sure you… read more

Posted by: Vickie Davis on 7/12/2014 at 4:50 am


Mt. Rainier: July 9th - Summit!

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Stoney Molina, Leah Fisher, Garrett Stevens, Nick Hunt, Pepper Dee | July 09, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

Our Four and Five Day Summit Climbs led by RMI Guides Mike Haugen and Garret Stevens were just leaving the crater rim at 7:19 am.  The teams have had a blue bird morning with clear skies, great views and light winds. We expect the teams back at Rainier Base Camp this afternoon.

Congratulations to Today’s Teams!

Crossing the Crate Rim on Mt. Rainier. Photo: Brent Okita Leaving the Summit of Mt. Rainier. Photo: Brent Okita
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We did it! Thank you all for wishes.
Bing Thanks to Mike, Leah and Stoney for being such wonderful guides and making this hike memorable!

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Posted by: Atul on 7/10/2014 at 12:15 pm

Amazing accomplishment!
Congratulations to Dimitri and his buddies!

√ done-:)...

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Posted by: Michelle BB on 7/9/2014 at 8:13 pm


Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Back in Talkeetna

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Josh Gautreau | June 29, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 348'

June 29, 2014 - 8:23 am PT

We finally got off Mt. McKinley as the snow stopped and the clouds parted. We wrapped up a great adventure with a great meal that did not have to be rehydrated.
I want to thank Bruce and Josh for being great partners in our adventure. Bruce is one of my heroes. Even though he is blind, he climbs with a natural ability and has a great mountain sense. He truly understands what mountaineering is all about. I look forward to our future adventures together!

RMI Guide MIke Haugen and Team “The Ocho”

River near Talkeetna, Alaska. Photo: Eric Frank

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I agree with all. Bruce and Josh are Mountaineers and heros in my book.  Glad to know you are safe and now have memories of Denali that will keep with… read more

Posted by: James on 6/30/2014 at 5:52 am

I’ve been watching you—but also NOAH’s weather reports—and I’m really, glad you made the decision that you did, even with all of that forward momentum that I KNOW you had. … read more

Posted by: Susan on 6/29/2014 at 6:22 pm


Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team’s Adventure Continues

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Josh Gautreau | June 27, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 7,300'

June 26, 2014 - 9:40 pm PT

We set out Tuesday morning to move up to 17k when circumstances both unfortunate and out of our control forced us back down to 14k camp. We made the wise mountaineering decision to forgo the summit for another time and begin the arduous trek back to Denali’s Basecamp.  We made it back to Basecamp around ten yesterday morning and were disheartened to hear that although clear here, the planes were not flying because of weather between here and Talkeetna. We set up camp and made the best of being stuck in the Alaska range.

Although we thought our adventure was winding down, we woke up last night to over a foot and a half of snow threatening our tent. We shoveled around camp for over two hours helping other teams that had tents collapse. When the snow finally slowed down this morning, we had collected well over three feet!  Although it was fun to see that much snow, it also meant we needed to put on our snowshoes to stomp down an entire runway filled with nearly waste deep, wet snow. The weather never really cleared today, but we are hoping that we will not receive as much snow tonight and the weather will be clear for flight activity to resume tomorrow.

RMI Guide Mike Haugen and Team “The Ocho”

Snowstormed tents on Mt. McKinley. Photo: RMI Collection

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Mike and Josh,
Thank both for leading Bruce on such a great trip!

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Posted by: Mom and Dad on 6/29/2014 at 5:35 pm

I’m so sorry, you guys—but I know you made the correct decision based on what you were facing—I was watching the local weather for Denali via the NOAA feeds and… read more

Posted by: Susan Matthews on 6/27/2014 at 9:26 pm


Mt. McKinley: Haugen and Team Resting at 14,200’

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Josh Gautreau | June 23, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

June 23, 2014 - 7:31 pm PT

We decided that today would be a great day to do some more acclimatization at 14,000’ on Mt. McKinley. Instead of carrying our gear higher we decided to rest today and then retrieve our gear on our move to 17,000’ tomorrow. The team is feeling strong and we are feeling very positive about a good summit bid once we get into position at seventeen. Keep your fingers crossed for good weather for us for a few days!

RMI Guide Mike Haugen and Team “The Ocho”

Camped at 14,200 ft on Mt. McKinley, Alaska.  Photo: RMI Collection

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I see from the other teams that the weather is really bad.  I hope you all are dug-in and holding out safe and warm.

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Posted by: James on 6/26/2014 at 6:47 pm

Hoping the weather will hold and you guys make it.Weather in Virginia is lovely.

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Posted by: Ron Holt on 6/24/2014 at 7:03 pm


Mt. McKinley: Haugen and Team Take a Rest at 14,000’

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Josh Gautreau | June 23, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

After a big day yesterday, we had a rest day here at 14,000’ on Mt. McKinley. We practiced some more fixed rope techniques and got ourselves organized. Our plan is to move our cache up to 17,000’ camp tomorrow. This will allow us to carry much lighter on our move day and to further our acclimatization before we make our big move up to 17,000’ Camp.

RMI Guide Mike Haugen and “The Ocho”

Camp life at 14,000 ft on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: Brent Okita

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Mission Accomplished

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Josh Gautreau | June 22, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

June 22, 2014 - 12:41 am PT

We woke up early to cold temperatures. The skies were clear and the winds were calm. After a good breakfast we set out to carry gear up higher. Not too long after we started climbing, the weather began to turn. Snow began to blow at us as we approached the fixed lines that go up to 16,200’. The weather was never too terrible, but it was never good. We decided to cache our gear at the top of the fixed lines and head back to camp. Rest day/acclimatization day tomorrow.

RMI Guide Mike Haugen and Team “The Ocho”

An RMI Team ascending Mt. McKinley's fixed lines. Photo: Brent Okita

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Looking good, following the journey from here in Seattle with interest!  Stay strong & keep focussed!!  (we know you will)

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Posted by: Susan on 6/22/2014 at 3:13 pm


Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Rest Day at 14K Camp

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Josh Gautreau | June 21, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

June 20, 1014 - 10:00 pm PT

We woke up this morning when the sun hit the tent. It was a cold morning here on Denali so it took us awhile to get out and about. We were on a rest/acclimatization day so we ate, drank, and took care of some chores to get us ready for our cache day up high tomorrow. Our plan is to carry some gear to somewhere between here and 17,000’ camp. The actual cache spot will depend on how well we are feeling and what the weather gives us.

RMI Guide Mike Haugen Team “The Ocho”

Post tent at Denali's 14,200' Camp with the fixed lines in the background. Photo: Lindsay Mann

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Was a great day in the Cascades.  Too bad you din’t have our weather.  View of 3 volcanoes from the top of Bandera

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Posted by: Ron on 6/21/2014 at 4:28 pm

Anchorage 30mph winds and poring rain.  But better than wenatchee.  Miss you, stay warm

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Posted by: Gwyn on 6/21/2014 at 3:08 pm


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