Entries By tyler jones

Mt. Rainier: Okita & Team Prepare for Tomorrow’s Summit Bid

Posted by: Brent Okita, Tyler Jones | May 13, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,060'

Today was another beautiful day. The crew climbed the first leg of the route in preparation for our climb tonight.
A couple of us kicked in the route today which goes up the Disappointment Cleaver.
The route is in great shape and were all looking forward to the climb.

RMI Guide Brent Okita


Mt. Rainier: The 2014 Season Begins!

Posted by: Brent Okita, Tyler Jones, Ben Liken, Nick Hunt, Mike King, Chase Nelson | May 12, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,060'

RMI Guides Brent Okita and Tyler Jones are leading our first 2014 Mt. Rainier Summit Climb! The team is doing great and had beautiful weather on their ascent to Camp Muir today.  Tomorrow the team will go on an acclimatization hike and get ready for their summit bid on Wednesday.

8,600' on the Muir Snowfield. Photo: Brent Okita Loving life on the Muir Snowfield. Photo: Brent Okita
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Mt. Rainier: September 6, 2013 Update

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Lindsay Mann | September 06, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,080'

The Four Day Summit Climbs led by Lindsay Mann and Tyler Jones were unable to leave Camp Muir last night.  The team experienced heavy thunderstorms that brought much lightening and 6 inches of new snow to Camp Muir. The teams plan to leave Camp Muir shortly and will be back in Ashford in the early afternoon.

Congratulations to today’s teams!

9/6/13 - Summit teams at Camp Muir. Photo: Lindsay Mann
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Mt. Rainier: July 13th Summit!

Posted by: Garrett Stevens, Tyler Jones | July 13, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guides Tyler Jones and Garrett Stevens reached the summit of Mt. Rainier shortly after 7:30 am PT.  They enjoyed clear skies and a new route.  The teams spent some time on top taking in the views before making their way back to Camp Muir.

Congratulations to today’s Summit Climb teams!

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Mt. McKinley: Jones and Team Descend to 11,000’

Posted by: Garrett Stevens, Tyler Jones | June 16, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

Sunday, June 16, 2013
We woke this morning to another unbelievable day at 17,200’ camp on Mt. McKinley.  The sun was shining, there was no wind blowing, and folks were comfortable in soft shell coats eating their grits and Pop Tarts. If you don’t have a frame of reference for how unbelievable that kind of weather is, it’s more typical for people to be wrapped in every puffy coat and pant that they brought to the high camp, while the wind threatens to blow you right off the mountain.  Needless to say, we were psyched.

We started walking down the buttress route soon after breakfast, and make excellent time across the knife-edge, exposed walking from camp to the top of the fixed lines. A short, technical descent down the lines had us all sweating by the time we reached the bottom, and we stripped down to base layers for the moderate descent back to our cache at 14,200’.

After we grabbed all the group food and gear, we loaded heavy packs and headed down in the scorching sun towards our old stomping grounds at 11,000’. We arrived in calm, clear skies, and we quickly got up tents and got out of the sun. We’re drinking a ton of water, looking forward to the group food fry of leftover cheeses, meats, and breads this evening, and getting ready for the 3am launch down the glacier tomorrow morning. Hopefully we’ll have the weather to fly back to showers, greasy burgers, and cold beer tomorrow.

Until then, stay tuned for the latest and greatest from the team!
Hasta luego,

RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens and the sore but happy team

An RMI Team camped at 11,200' on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Collection

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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team on the Summit!

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens | June 15, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 20,320'

Saturday, June 15th, 2013
Today was a busy day at the roof of North America! Our team was first out of the gates from 17,200’ camp, with a warm, windless departure at 8:00am. The first stretch of the route above camp is also one of the most technical and time consuming; it’s called the “Autobahn” and takes a strong, committed team to single push across the steeply rising traverse to Denali Pass.

Our group crushed it, and we were enjoying the sun on the east side of the pass soon enough. The next few stretches went by relatively quickly, although nothing is lightning fast at 19,000’. By the time we reached the Football Field, a flat saddle just below the summit ridge, we were down to base layers and light gloves. Considering the fierce reputation that Denali has for arctic temperatures and raging wind, we consider ourselves incredibly lucky to have had a such an incredible day.

The last climb up Pig Hill was taxing our legs and our lungs, and just when folks had had enough we reached the final summit ridge. Forty minutes later, our team put the highest point of the continent under their crampons, amid much hugging and celebration.

The trip back down was uneventful, albeit hot. The sun roasted our tired crew all the way back to camp. But as soon as we got back, folks were out of boots and into tents, resting and relaxing as we brought hot water and heaping helpings of ramen with bacon and chicken. We’re ready for the long trip back to base camp, but that’s for another day. Right now, we’re savoring the day’s events and getting ready for some well earned sleep. Thanks again and we’ll check back in soon!

RMI Guide Tyler Jones

An RMI Guide breaks trail on the Autobahn. Photo: Lindsay Mann


RMI Guide Tyler Jones and the team from the Mount McKinley summit!

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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Get Their Break!

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens | June 14, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'

Friday, June 14, 2013
Light and variable wind started over night with warmer temperatures. We woke early to beat the heat and the people that have collected at the 14 camp over the past week of stormy weather!

We began our climb to high camp in cold squeaky snow conditions. The headwall where the fixed lines are located were a bit more difficult than our trip up the other day as the wind nearly stripped all the snow and left firm icy climbing! From the top of the lines we began a perfect climb up the West Buttress, which is the most exposed and picturesque part of the climb. The climb was hard but the team did very well. We have sparked our match for our summit push! Currently we are again cowering from the most intense sun of the trip basking in our shelters at 17,200’ Denali high camp!  Our chill mentality had payed huge today and with a bit o’ luck we will have nice weather tomorrow for our summit push! More food, water, and relaxing for the eve. We will try for a call from the summit tomorrow afternoon! Hi Five!

RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens, and Team!

Climbers on the ridge to 17,200' Denali Camp. Photo: RMI Collection

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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Send Greetings from 14,000’

Posted by: Garrett Stevens, Tyler Jones | June 13, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

Thursday, June 13, 2013
Today we are all contributing to the blog. Have had big winds once again and are fixing our kitchen tent and building more walls -  getting a little stir crazy!  Hope you all enjoy the words from each of us!

Hi to my family, I love you all hope to give grandpa a hi five soon! Kiss to Bean. Love,  Ty

Hello to all my family and friends! Kisses to Amy, a big scratching behind the ears to Barley, Blue, and Miles. Thanks for all the positive wishes!  -g

Wendy, Taylor and Nathan.
Love and miss you. I hope you feel my hugs and kisses at bedtime.  Be home soon. Love Dad

Dear Michelle,
I love you and miss you and the girls so very much.  Please give all of my love to A-Bear and K-Bear, and tell them daddy will be home soon.  Also, pass along my love to my mom, dad, Clubbie and Chevy.  Love, Justin.

To my Hubby,
I hope you’re flying high this week and passing all your tests.  I really really miss you right now. Give my love and lots of treats to the girls :) Until i get home i’ll leave you with reflections of a week at 14,200. To quote the crew from BBT"It was a snowy nightmare from whence there’s no return.” Tiamo mi amore-Jess


To my family and friends, thanks for all of the support, love and prayers.  I am “living the dream” at 14K. The DeLorme transceiver is no longer working, thus no updates there. I love you, Matt!  You are my light. I love you Mom, Dad, Bud and all my family. Stump, there was a C-17 overhead yesterday—your handiwork? ;)  Dad, sadly there is no Denali branch of Subway, but I’m sure you can petition corporate headquarters as one of their most valuable customers. :)  Bernard and Judy, the boots are fantastic and keeping my feet warm, thank you!  I love you all and miss you all so much. -Robin

Friends, family, countrymen, lend me your ear!  The Denali wind gods have saddled us at 14000.  The team is at the mercy of Mother Nature and patience is the name of the game.  It also means my work schedule is a bit hosed.  Team PCET don’t count on me coming in next week!  Poof - ha!  To all loved ones we are sitting strong and doing well.  Hope to see you soon.  James.

Hello to my dear family Mom Dad Sue Ryan Mia Ron Jodi Dannie Casey Nell Meg Ivy Maggie and awesome friends from frosty Denali!  Thanks for all the comments and positive vibes sent!  Love you and miss you!!  All is good here - hoping our “out chilling” will soon end and we can move up the mtn in the am.  Hope all is well with all you!  Have I told you that I love and miss you?  :)  I do!  Lori

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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Wait Another Day

Posted by: Garrett Stevens, Tyler Jones | June 12, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

Wednesday, June 12, 2013
Today is unfortunately another out chill situation. Garrett and I woke about 6 this morning to continued strong wind from 16,000 feet and above. The nature of the climbing is steep and exposed. With wind and a very cold north east flow, the risk of frostbite and loss of balance from the wind gusts, we have chosen to stay another day and hope for less wind tomorrow.

We try to conserve our lunch food and avoid the piggy tendency that sitting and waiting in the tents provides! The weather is clear and warm in most of Alaska, but at the altitudes we want to venture into, the jet stream is on!

On a more positive note, RMI Guide Jake Beren and his crew pulled into camp this afternoon, making for a great meeting of the minds in our 14,200’ home. We are excited to spend some time with friends and climbing partners from past trips, although we do have high hopes for a move tomorrow.

Report back soon!
RMI Guide Tyler Jones

Camp life at 14,200' on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Collection

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Mt. McKinley: Team Jones Waiting For Calmer Winds

Posted by: Garrett Stevens, Tyler Jones | June 11, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

June 11, 2013
You can’t always get what you want…
Those lyrics from Mick Jagger and the Rolling Stones were the first thing that went through the collective consciousness this morning. The guides woke at 6am, packed sleeping bags in preparation for departure and unzipped the tent - only to see winds whipping the ridge of the West Buttress route above.

While camp here at 14,200’ remains relatively calm, the higher reaches of the mountain are getting pummeled by ferocious northeast winds, which are sending plumes of spindrift snow off into the stratosphere. With a forecast high temperature of -15F at the 17,000’ camp today, and winds gusting well into the 30mph range, the only safe option is to wait here in camp and hope for a less windy day to make our move. That combination of wind and temperature will actually feel like -65F (approximately), which can freeze exposed flesh in one minute. Needless to say, we’re not going to venture into that kind environment.

So here we sit and wait, hoping for a break in the wind. We were treated to a bodacious air show earlier, when the contract helicopter, an A-Star B-3, came ripping around and right over our tents about three times in a row. Seems like they are doing some sort of filming up here, and we all mugged shamelessly as the ship blasted less than 40 feet above us. Good entertainment, to say the least.

While we have had more than one facetious conversation about moving in the wind storm, the group is prepared to wait for the right time and the right weather window. To channel the Stones yet again (and continue the song):

If you try sometimes, you might find you get what you need

So here’s hoping we get what we need!

RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens and the patiently waiting team

Walls built around camp at 14,000 ft to protect against the winds.  Photo: RMI Collection

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