Posts for North Cascades

Mt. Shuksan: Walter and team arrive at high camp

Posted by: Mike Walter | July 18, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *North Cascades
Elevation: 7,000

We had a great day of climbing today on Mt. Shuksan. We started at the Lake Ann trail head (4700’) and climbed up through the Fisher Chimneys, which consisted of a couple thousand feet of 3rd and 4th class rock climbing. The weather and climbing conditions were perfect for us, and we climbed at a leisurely pace, making it to high camp in a little over 6 hours. Our spectacular camp is at just below 7000’, on a rock ridge nestled in between the Upper Curtis Glacier and the White Salmon Glacier. We’ve got views southwest to Mt. Baker and north into Canada; it is truly a stunning alpine setting.
We’re hoping the weather cooperates with us (the forecast is calling for some rain) and let’s us climb to the summit tomorrow. We’ll be in touch tomorrow to let you know how it goes.

RMI Guide Mike Walter

Fisher Chimneys camp just below 7000', on a rock ridge in between the Upper Curtis Glacier and the White Salmon Glacier. Photo: Mike Walter
2

Forbidden Peak: Davis and Team Summit

Posted by: Leon Davis, Bryan Hendrick | July 13, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *North Cascades
Elevation: 8,630'

Good morning everybody. This is Leon and team calling from our way out of Boston Basin in this morning. Another beautiful day today, just like yesterday, and we climbed up the West Ridge of Forbidden. We had a successful trip, starting out at 2:30 in the morning under a full moon. It was beautiful, a perfect day. And yeah, we’re all doing well heading out to the cars hopefully in time to watch the World Cup Finals. Talk to you guys later. Thank you. Bye.

RMI Guide Leon Davis


RMI Guide Leon Davis checks in from the North Cascades.


North Cascades: Davis and Team Check in from Boston Basin

Posted by: Bryan Hendrick, Leon Davis | July 12, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *North Cascades
Elevation: 6,200'

July 11, 2014 - 8:15 pm PT

Hi Everybody this is Leon and Bryan in the Boston Basin, we climbed Sharkfin Tower today.  It was a beautiful day.  Everyone did great, everyone is feeling it but we got a lot of good training in.
Tomorrow our plan is to wake up early and get an alpine start and head up to the west ridge of Forbidden and climb that thing.
All is well, we will talk to you tomorrow.

RMI Guide Leon Davis

Johannesburg from Boston Basin. Photo: Kristina Weller


RMI Guide Leon Davis checks in from Boston Basin.


North Cascades: Davis & Team Check In from Boston Basin

Posted by: Leon Davis, Bryan Hendrick | July 10, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *North Cascades
Elevation: 6,200'

Hi, this is Leon calling from Boston Basin Camp. We had a beautiful day getting here and just enjoying an evening after dinner. All is well. Tomorrow we are having a training day and planning to head up and climb Sharkfin Tower. Tomorrow’s weather looks great so we are psyched. I’ll talk to you guys tomorrow. Bye.

RMI Guide Leon Davis

Boston Basin in the North Cascades. Photo: RMI Collection


RMI Guide Leon Davis calls in from Boston Basin.

1

Forbidden Peak: Fixmer and Team Reach Summit

Posted by: Lindsay Fixmer | July 10, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *North Cascades
Elevation: 8,630'

In the North Cascades, RMI Guide Lindsay Fixmer and team reached the summit of Forbidden Peak via the West Ridge.  Lindsay reported perfect weather during their summit bid and good route conditions.

Way to Climb!

An RMI climber ascending the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak in the North Cascades, Washington. Photo: Lindsay Fixmer An RMI team on the summit of Forbidden Peak in the North Cascades, Washington. Photo: Lindsay Fixmer

Mt. Shuksan: Geoff and Team Spend the Day Training

Posted by: Geoff Schellens | September 06, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *North Cascades

Hi all,
Today is our last day on Shuksan before we hike out tomorrow.  We spent the morning relaxing getting in and out of our tents as the rain storms were sporadic.  By early afternoon it seemed stable enough and we did some training.  First we practiced knots and hitches, then we moved on to building snow anchors, and wrapped up with some crevasse rescue scenarios.  We are now back in tents as a very dark ominous looking cloud quickly approaches. 

That’s the latest from Shuksan,

RMI Guide Geoff Schellens & Team

Rope Work on Shuksan. Photo: Geoff Schellens

Mt. Shuksan: Walter & Team Climb Well, But Weather Holds The Cards

Posted by: Mike Walter | September 05, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *North Cascades
Elevation: 5,700'

We had a mixed bag of weather this trip: some sunshine, some rain, some thunder, some lightning. A strong low pressure system moving in from the south has been causing heavy rain and flash flooding in Oregon and Washington, but we were able to squeak in an enjoyable climb today. We climbed from our bivy sight at 5,700’ on Mt. Shuksan, climbed up through the Fisher Chimneys, on to the White Salmon Glacier, up Winnie’s Slide, onto the Upper Curtis Glacier, up Hell’s Highway, and onto the Sulphide Glacier before weather forced our hand and we headed back down to camp. We had a full day of climbing, and almost got to the top. Now we’re back in our tents, safe, dry, and content, listening to the rain. The squirrelly weather did provide us with this beautiful sunset last night though!

RMI Guide Mike Walter

Mt. Baker at sunset from Fisher Chimney's high camp. Photo: Mike Walter

Mt. Shuksan: Geoff and Team Recount Summit Day

Posted by: Geoff Schellens | September 05, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *North Cascades
Elevation: 9,127'

Hi all,

Well we lucked out with the weather yesterday and made the summit of Mt Shuksan.  If you had asked me our chances of climbing yesterday morning I would have said not good.  The sky was very dark with heavy clouds hanging all around the summit, but as we started climbing they seemed to dissipate.  Kirk and Harry did a great job despite being a bit nervous about the rock climbing necessary for the summit pyramid.  We left our camp at around 7:30 AM and found ourselves smiling on the summit by 12:30.  All in all a great day.

Today we are resting and recovering during the intermittent rain showers and will hopefully get some more training in when we can.

That’s all for now,
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens and Team

Kirk, Harry and Geoff on the summit of Shuksan - Photo Geoff Schellens

Mt. Shuksan: SUMMIT!

Posted by: Geoff Schellens | September 04, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *North Cascades
Elevation: 9,127'

12:30 p.m. PST : RMI Guide Geoff Schellens just called into RMI to let everyone know the team reached the summit of Mt. Shuksan at 9,127’!  Geoff Reported that the sky was dark and cloudy with a few sprinkles, but the rocks were relatively dry.  The team has started their descent and will report when they are back their base camp.  The have another day of training planned before heading out of the North Cascade Range on Friday.

Congratulations Team!

Climbing in the North Cascades Range - RMI Photo Collection
1

Mt. Shuksan: Schellens and Team Enjoy Better Than Expected Weather

Posted by: Geoff Schellens | September 03, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *North Cascades

September 3, 2013 AM

Hi all!  Kirk, Harry, and I had a very nice hike into the low bivy site on Mt. Shuksan yesterday; partly cloudy, but completely dry.  Last night we had a few light showers and then it opened up on us this morning around 8 - 9 a.m.  It has given us a little reprieve but is now starting to rain again.  We’re relaxing in tents and hoping for another break this afternoon so we can get some training in.  Everyone is in good spirits despite the weather and some wet boots from this mornings rain storm.  Thanks for checking in!

September 3, 2013 PM

Our hopes came true!  The weather broke this afternoon and we were able to get outside and get some training in.  We’re taking a break right now but will head back out and take advantage of the dry weather and train some more.  The forecasts predicts decent weather for tomorrow so we may try to climb.  I’ll keep you posted on our that goes. We’ll check in again tomorrow!

RMI Guide Geoff Schellens

Mt. Shuksan admist the clouds.  Photo: Geoff Schellens
1

Previous Page More Entries