FIND YOUR ADVENTURE

Climb Details

Cost:
Deposit:
Length:
Difficulty:
Type:

$16000
$2500
21 day(s)
Level 4 difficulty 
Mountaineering

Availability



Upcoming Climbs

June 23, 2012

Guide(s):

Mark Tucker, Alex Van Steen


Carstensz Pyramid

Rising above the rainforests on the island of New Guinea in the Southern Pacific stands the tallest peak on Oceania and one of the Seven Summits, Carstensz Pyramid (16,023’). The journey to Carstensz Pyramid takes us from the beaches of Bali through the Papuan jungles to reach Carstensz’s rocky summit. The climb, while mostly rock scrambling and fixed line travel, entails moderate climbing up to 5.8 in difficulty. Expedition highlights include:

  • Scale the most exotic of the Seven Summits, venturing into a land rarely seen by the outside world, in an adventure through tropical forests, across bridges constructed of grasses, and past equatorial glaciers to the highest point of Oceania.
  • Climb with a qualified RMI Guide, experienced in leading Carstensz Pyramid expeditions, benefiting from their background, training, and expertise as you venture onto exposed terrain and to high altitudes.
  • Rely on RMI’s unmatched logistical support. With 40 years of experience leading mountaineering expeditions, we have the ability to deal with the uncertainties of climbing Carstensz Pyramid, a mountain notorious for its bureaucratic and logistical challenges as well as its sharp limestone and fickle weather.
  • Support the development of local enterprise and promote the rights of the local indigenous populations as we work with a local Papuan partner on Carstensz Pyramid. We are the only American guide service to do so. 
  • Take part in an RMI adventure and see why we continue to set the standard in guiding excellence.

Beginning our adventures in Bali, we gather as a team before flying to Timika, a small town on the island of New Guinea. A second, shorter flight brings us to the village of Sugapa, located in the heavily forrested hills on the north side of the Sudirman Range, from which Carstensz Pyramid rises.

From Sugapa, we begin our trek through the jungles toward Carstensz Pyramid, picking our way through the undergrowth of the rainforest, beneath the thick forest canopy, and across swaying twine bridges made by the local Moni tribesman who help us navigate this landscape. Our path eventually leads us out of the lower elevations to the high alpine equatorial tundra and to Carstensz Base Camp. Base Camp lies in an absolutely beautiful setting, where jagged limestone peaks rise above milky blue alpine lakes.

Carstensz Pyramid is a one day climb, necessitating a pre-dawn departure to avoid the afternoon equatorial precipitation. The climbing is of moderate technical challenge, involving mostly rock scrambling and requiring only a few moves of 5.8 difficulty.  Proficiency with fixed ropes, ascenders, rappelling, and experience rock climbing is required.  After completing our climb, we retrace our steps out of the mountains and into the jungle to Sugapa for our return flights to Timika and onward to Bali.

Climbing and travelling in Papua, Indonesia entails a great deal of uncertainty and requires tremendous flexibility. In addition to the fickle equatorial weather amplified by high altitudes, political and bureaucratic challenges exist and can hinder the progress of the expedition. For these reasons we build additional flexibility into our itinerary and request that all team members fully understand the nature of where we are going. 

THE RMI DIFFERENCE

Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. was established in 1969 and is one of America’s oldest and most-trusted guide services. We are the largest guide service on Mt. Rainier and Mt. McKinley and leaders in guiding climbs and treks around the globe. Our years of leading mountain adventures give us the experience and knowledge to create the best possible trips and we work hard to live up to our reputation as an industry leader. Our trip preparation before departure takes care of the details for you, from hotels to airport transfers, so that you can focus on preparing for the climb instead of the distraction that comes with coordinating logistics.

Our Carstensz Pyramid Expedition is led by RMI’s foremost U.S. guides who bring years of climbing experience not only on Carstensz Pyramid but on mountains all over the world, from the Andes to the Alaska Range to the Himalayas. As you reach higher elevations and test the limits of your experience, the value of an accomplished, highly-trained RMI Guide held to our standards and who has previously reached the summit cannot be understated. We are also fortunate to work with an excellent indigenous outfitter in Papua. The advantages of working with a Papuan outfitter who has spent a lifetime invested in the area is unequaled. In addition to the human rights guarantee of fair and respectful treatment of our local staff, our outfitter holds to increasingly environmentally responsible travel and camping practices - neither of these promises are often followed through by outside outfitters.

We use RMI's own climbing equipment brought from the U.S., ensuring that our expedition standards of safety, quality, and reliability are met. Our menu is carefully planned and packed before the expedition, keeping our team happy and healthy throughout the expedition. Our exceptional focus on detail, our unparalleled level of climber attention, and our genuine excitement for these adventures are what make our programs truly memorable.

SAFETY

Safety has always been RMI’s top priority and we strive to create the safest mountain experience possible. RMI’s experienced team of guides focus on leading a fun and successful climb without compromising safety. We apply the same standards of safety we bring to Alaska and the Himalayas to our climbs of Carstensz Pyramid. Careful planning, precise ascent profiles, updated weather forecasts via satellite, and diligent attention are taken as we venture to high altitudes. The remoteness of Carstensz Pyramid demands that comprehensive medical kits, rescue equipment, and radio and satellite communication equipment are carried with the team throughout the trip.

As you prepare for your upcoming adventure please feel free to contact our office and speak directly to one of our experienced guides regarding equipment, conditioning, the route, or any other questions you may have about our programs. We are available Monday thru Friday 8:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. at (888) 89-CLIMB or info@rmiguides.com.

Carstensz Pyramid Equipment List

Whittaker Mountaineering

The following is a list of required equipment. We may encounter a variety of weather conditions throughout our climb, including rain, wind, snow, sleet and extreme heat. Skimping on equipment can jeopardize your safety and success, so we want you to think carefully about any changes or substitutions you are considering. If you have questions regarding the equipment needed for your upcoming climb, give us a call and speak directly to one of our experienced guides.

Most of the required equipment is available for rent or purchase from our affiliate Whittaker Mountaineering. RMI climbers receive a 10% discount on new clothing and equipment items ordered from Whittaker Mountaineering. This offer excludes sale items. For internet orders, please use the discount code RMI 2012.

Go To Reserve Rentals - Whittaker Mountaineering

Pack & Bag Guides' Pick

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2 DUFFEL BAG(S): 100+ liter bag(s) made of tough, waterproof material with rugged zippers. One duffel will be taken on the mountain and carried by the porters through the rainy forest.  The other duffel can be smaller and lighter duty and will be left at the hotel with extra gear and clothing.


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BACKPACK: A 40 - 50 liter pack with a sternum strap is recommended for this climb.


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PACK COVER (OPTIONAL): Protects your pack from rain while on the trail.

 
 

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SLEEPING BAG: A synthetic bag rated to 10° to 15° F. A waterproof bag is preferred, but not mandatory.
The temperature rating system for sleeping bags is arbitrary and is not a guarantee of warmth. Base your selection on how well you do in the cold. If you tend to sleep on the cold side, choose a bag rated on the lower end of the temperature range.


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SLEEPING PAD: Full length inflatable or closed cell pad.


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SLEEPING PAD: A second 3/4 length inflatable or closed cell foam pad.


Technical Gear Guides' Pick

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CLIMBING HARNESS: A comfortable, adjustable climbing harness with a few accessible gear loops.  Adjustable leg loops are essential.


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MECHANICAL ASCENDER: For traveling on fixed ropes.


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RAPPEL DEVICE: A figure eight rappel device is the most versatile as it works with a variety of rope sizes.


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20 ' PERLON CORD: 7 mm cordelette in one continuous length.


Head Guides' Pick

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WARM HAT: Wool or synthetic. It should be warm and thin enough to fit underneath a climbing helmet.


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BALL CAP OR SUN HAT: A lightweight ball cap or sun hat.


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BUFF OR BANDANA: A buff or bandana provides good protection from the sun and dust as well as insulation from the cold, dry air.


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CONTACT LENSES/ EYEGLASSES: Spare prescription glasses if you wear contact lenses/eyeglasses. Bring extra contact lenses and solution.


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SUNGLASSES: Quality sunglasses with some side protection or wrap-around sunglasses are needed. Super dark glacier glasses are not necessary.


Hands Guides' Pick

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LIGHTWEIGHT GLOVE: A glove with a leather or grip palm is best. Fleece- or wool-palmed gloves are too slippery when rappeling.

 
Outdoor Research Vert Glove

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LEATHER GLOVE: Durable leather gloves are necessary for rappeling and climbing on the abrasive limestone of Carstensz.


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INSULATED GLOVE: Warm, insulated glove, waterproof if possible. Choose an insulated glove with a removable liner for ease of drying.

 
Black Diamond Guide Glove

Upper Body Guides' Pick

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2 LIGHT TO MEDIUM WEIGHT BASELAYER: Long-sleeve wool or synthetic top will be used as your base layer. Zip-neck styles will allow for better temperature regulation.


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SOFT SHELL LAYER: A windproof, water-resistant and highly breathable layer.


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SYNTHETIC INSULATED JACKET: Light and warm, water-resistant and windproof.


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NON-COTTON HIKING SHIRT: Lightweight, synthetic shirt with either long or short sleeves. The long sleeve is preferred for sun protection.


Lower Body Guides' Pick

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CLIMBING PANT: Synthetic climbing pants offer a wide range of versatility. You can wear them alone on hot days, or in combination with the base layer on cold days. The thickness (insulation quality) should be based on how well you do in the cold.


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HARD SHELL PANT: A high-quality, waterproof pant. Full-length side zippers are required for facilitating quick clothing adjustments over boots.


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LIGHT WEIGHT TREKKING PANT: A lightweight, synthetic pair of pants is a good option for the approach trek when hiking at lower altitudes and in warm conditions. These pants have no insulation, are typically made of thin nylon, and commonly feature zippers to convert between pants and shorts.


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HIKING SHORTS: Good for lower elevations and warm, sunny days.


Feet

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RUBBER BOOTS: High quality knee-high rubber boots with good grip for traveling in muddy terrain. Lace up or buckle closures are highly recommended since the provide a snug fit that reduces that chance of the boot being pulled off in deep mud.


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CLIMBING BOOTS: Look for waterproof climbing boots with rubber soles and a rubber rand that extends up the side and covers the toes.

M:
  • La Sportiva Trango S Evo GTX

W:
  • La Sportiva Trango S Evo GTX

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TREKKING BOOTS / APPROACH SHOES: One pair of sturdy trekking boots or approach shoes for trekking and wearing around camp. These must be waterproof.


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GAITERS: Large enough to fit over your trekking boots to guard against mud and snow.


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3 pair SOCKS: Either wool or synthetic. Some people find liner socks useful for reducing friction.


Miscellaneous Items Guides' Pick

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EXTRA BATTERIES FOR HEADLAMP: Lithium batteries perform best in cold environments. 

 
 

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MEALS: See the Food tab for suggestions and quantities.


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2 WATER BOTTLES: One-quart water bottles are required. Wide mouth bottles are ideal since their opening is less likely to freeze.


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POTABLE AQUA: Water purification for 50 quarts.


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4 GARBAGE BAGS (Large): We recommend lining your backpack with garbage bags to keep items in your backpack completely dry.


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ZIP-LOCK BAG (1 GALLON): Please use the Zip-Lock as your personal trash bag.


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INSECT REPELLANT


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UMBRELLA: Small and lightweight.


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LUGGAGE LOCKS: For your duffel bags. Must be TSA approved.


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STUFF SACK(S): These should be waterproof. Bring as needed.


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CAMERA


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WATCH with alarm and light: Altimeter models are popular.


Travel Clothes

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CASUAL PANTS


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SHIRTS


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SWEATER / SWEATSHIRT


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COMFORTABLE SHOES


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SWIMSUIT


Toilet Articles

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TOOTHBRUSH


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PEE BOTTLE: 1 to 1 1/2 quart size


Personal First Aid Kit

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ANTIBIOTIC OINTMENT (FOR CUTS & SCRAPES)


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BAND-AIDS


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ASPRIN / IBUPROFEN / TYLENOL


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MOLESKIN


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ANTACIDS


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IMMODIUM (ANTI-DIARRHEA)


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PEPTO-BISMOL (STOMACH RELIEF)


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SMALL ROLL OF ADHESIVE TAPE


Personal Medications

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ANTIBIOTICS: Broad spectrum antibiotics for Traveler's Diarrhea.


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ANTIBIOTICS: Antibiotics for upper respiratory infection.


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TYLENOL #3: Tylenol 3 for pain


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ACETAZOLAMIDE: For Altitiude Illness


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ANTI-MALARIA MEDICATIONS


Utensils Guides' Pick

Travel Documents

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PASSPORT: Valid for six months beyond your return date.


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COPY OF PASSPORT: The first two pages of your passport.


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COPY OF FLIGHT ITINERARY


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EXTRA PASSPORT PHOTOS


Optional Items

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SLEEPING MASK


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CLEANSING FACE WIPES


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WATERLESS SHAMPOO


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READING MATERIAL / JOURNAL


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iPOD or MP3 PLAYER


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PERSONAL SOLAR CHARGER: A small solar panel is a great way to charge your iPod or camera.

 
Brunton Solaris 6

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HAND LOTION


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FOOT POWDER


Provided Equipment

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RMI provides the following equipment for your program: group and personal tents, stoves, group cooking equipment, fuel, climbing ropes, climbing anchors, fixed ropes, and comprehensive first aid and repair kits.


Pre-Trip Checklist

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Purchase travel insurance.


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Return the Participant Information Form to the RMI Office.


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Purchase airplane tickets.


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Reserve rental equipment.


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