Climb Details
Cost:
Deposit:
Length:
Difficulty:
Type:
$18300*
$2500
23 day(s)
Mountaineering
* Cost includes all expenses Bali to Bali.
Availability
Upcoming Climbs
| September 24, 2013 | |
|
Guide(s): |
|
| July 8, 2014 | |
|
Guide(s): |
|
 |
"The trip to Carstensz wasn't just a trip - it was an adventure of a lifetime. I have been fortunate to climb on 6 of the 7 summits, but this trip was the most interesting of the them all. And the fact that we had 2 western guides made a huge difference. Incredible."
— Sara M. | Read More Testimonials |
Rising above the rainforests on the island of New Guinea stands the tallest peak on Oceania and one of the Seven Summits, Carstensz Pyramid (16,023’), also known in Indonesian as Puncak Jaya ("Victory Peak") or in Moni as Mbai Ngela ("Forbidden Egg"). The journey to Carstensz Pyramid takes us from the beaches of Bali through the Papuan jungles to reach Carstensz’s rocky summit. The climb, while mostly rock scrambling and fixed line travel, entails moderate climbing up to 5.6 in difficulty. Expedition highlights include:
- Scale the most exotic of the Seven Summits in an adventure entailing an amazing jungle trek and exciting high-altitude rock climbing!
- The lead guides on our Carstensz Pyramid expeditions have previously completed the trek and reached the summit. You benefit directly from their knowledge throughout the adventure.
- Rely on RMI’s unmatched logistical support. With more than 40 years of experience leading mountaineering expeditions, we have the ability and connections to deal with the uncertainties of climbing Carstensz Pyramid, a mountain notorious for its logistical challenges.
- RMI partners exclusively with indigenous Papuans. We are the only guide service in the Western Hemisphere to do so. Additionally, we are the only guide service to actively support and participate in community development training for the indigenous local tribes whose lands we pass through.
- Take part in the jungle trek that is so much a part of this adventure. RMI continues to set the standard in guiding excellence by offering a thoroughly complete experience. As with other adventures on the planet, we don’t miss the rich cultural aspects of an approach by skipping ahead to the mountain in a helicopter.
Beginning our adventures in Bali, we gather as a team before flying to Timika, a small town on the south coast of New Guinea. A second, shorter flight brings us to the village of Sugapa, located in the heavily forested hills on the north side of the Sudirman Range, from which Carstensz Pyramid rises.
From Sugapa, we begin our trek toward Carstensz Pyramid, working our way through the thick woods into the rainforest and deeper into the jungle. These are the lands of the Moni tribesmen who help us navigate this landscape. Our path eventually leads us out of the lower elevations to the alpine marshes and high limestone plateau and to Carstensz Base Camp. Base Camp lies in an absolutely beautiful setting, where jagged limestone peaks rise above milky blue alpine lakes.
Carstensz Pyramid is a one day climb, necessitating a pre-dawn departure to avoid the afternoon equatorial precipitation. The climbing is a moderate technical challenge, involving mostly rock scrambling and a few sections of mid 5th class difficulty. Proficiency with fixed ropes, ascenders, rappelling, and experience rock climbing are required. After completing our climb, we retrace our steps out of the mountains and into the jungle to Sugapa for our return flights to Timika and onward to Bali.
Climbing and traveling in Papua, Indonesia entails a great deal of uncertainty and requires tremendous flexibility. In addition to the fickle equatorial weather amplified by high altitudes, political and bureaucratic challenges exist and can hinder the progress of the expedition. For these reasons we build additional flexibility into our itinerary and request that all team members fully understand the nature of where we are going.
THE RMI DIFFERENCE
Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. was established in 1969 and is one of America’s oldest and most-trusted guide services. We are the largest guide service on Mt. Rainier and Mt. McKinley and leaders in guiding climbs and treks around the globe. Our years of leading mountain adventures give us the experience and knowledge to create the best possible trips and we work hard to live up to our reputation as an industry leader. Our trip preparation before departure takes care of the details for you, from hotels to airport transfers, so that you can focus on preparing for the climb instead of the distraction that comes with coordinating logistics.
Our Carstensz Pyramid Expedition is led by RMI’s top guides who bring years of climbing experience not only on Carstensz Pyramid but on mountains all over the world, from the Andes to the Alaska Range to the Himalayas. As you reach higher elevations and test the limits of your experience, the value of an accomplished, highly-trained RMI Guide, one held to our standards and who has previously completed the trek reached the summit, cannot be understated. We are also fortunate to work with an excellent indigenous outfitter in Papua. The advantage of working with a Papuan outfitter who has spent a lifetime invested in the area is unequaled. In addition to the human rights guarantee of fair and respectful treatment of our local staff, our outfitter holds to increasingly environmentally responsible travel and camping practices - neither of these promises are often followed through by outside outfitters.
Read more about RMI's Responsible Climbing on Carstensz Pyramid here.
We use RMI's own climbing equipment brought from the U.S., ensuring that our expedition standards of safety, quality, and reliability are met. Our menu is carefully planned before the expedition, keeping our team happy and healthy throughout the expedition. Our exceptional focus on detail, our unparalleled level of climber attention, and our genuine excitement for these adventures are what make our programs truly memorable.
SAFETY
Safety has always been RMI’s top priority and we strive to create the safest mountain experience possible. RMI’s experienced team of guides focus on leading a fun and successful climb without compromising safety. We apply the same standards of safety we bring to Alaska and the Himalayas to our climbs of Carstensz Pyramid. Careful planning, precise ascent profiles with ample contingency days, and diligent attention to logistical details are taken as we venture to high altitudes. The remoteness of Carstensz Pyramid demands that comprehensive medical kits, and satellite communication equipment are carried with the team throughout the trip.
As you prepare for your upcoming adventure please feel free to contact our office and speak directly to one of our experienced guides regarding equipment, conditioning, the route, or any other questions you may have about our programs. We are available Monday thru Friday 8:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. at (888) 89-CLIMB or info@rmiguides.com.
Carstensz Pyramid Itinerary
Climbing and travelling in Papua, Indonesia entails a great deal of uncertainty and requires tremendous flexibility. In addition to fickle equatorial weather amplified by high altitudes, political and bureaucratic problems exist which can hinder the progress of the expedition. We purposefully build flexibility into our itinerary to take into account considerations such as the permitting and registration process, weather, route conditions, acclimatization, and the strength of the climbing team. This flexibility allows us to accommodate logistical uncertainties without the pressure to adhere strictly to the schedule and significantly improves our chances of success on Carstensz Pyramid.
Day 1: Depart U.S.: Depending on flight times and connections, travel to Denpasar, Bali typically takes from 24 – 36 hours. Most flights require a stop in a major city such as Tokyo, Singapore, Taipei, or Bangkok en route to Denpasar. During your flight you will cross the International Date Line.
Day 2: Arrive Denpasar, Bali: We transfer to our hotel and get some rest before our evening reception and welcome dinner. Overnight at the Best Western Resort Kuta. (D)
Arriving in Bali
Day 3: Today the itinerary focuses on a thorough team meeting, orientation, and equipment check. The remainder of the day is spent enjoying the beaches and local cuisine. We depart for the airport around 11:30 p.m. for a very early morning flight to Timika, located on the island of New Guinea. (B, D)
The beaches of Bali
Day 4: Flight to Timika, Papua: Following our arrival, we have the day to finalize our food shopping as well as spend some down time enjoying the pool and gym. Overnight at Rimba Papua. (B, D)
Flying to Timika
Day 5: The day is spent in Timika making the final expedition preparations for our adventure. Overnight at Rimba Papua. (B, D)
Day 6: A morning flight brings us over the Sudirman Range, with stunning views of Carstensz Pyramid, to Sugapa. By mid-morning we will begin our trek, leaving Sugapa and heading into the jungle. Trekking time is approximately 5 hours. (B, D)
Flight to SugapaBeginning the trek
Day 7: Our trek takes us deeper into the heart of the jungle and to a remote Moni tribal village. We receive a traditional Moni welcome, including a beautiful ceremony with song and dance. Trekking time is approximately 8 hours. (B, D)
Arriving in UgimbaThe Moni of Ugimba
Day 8: Today’s enjoyable and challenging trek follows streams and creeks to penetrate through thick jungle. Various orchids and colorful frogs abound. We climb steeply up and over rocky and root-covered walls to attain our camp for the evening. Trekking time is approximately 8 hours. (B, D)
Trekking through the jungle
Day 9: The scenery today is spectacular as we travel across a high marsh toward the limestone plateau of Carstensz Pyramid. Amazing sinkholes and caves dot the landscape and dingiso (tree kangaroos), ndomea malabiso (hedgehogs), and wiyahome (coyote dingo) are known to inhabit this area. Trekking time is approximately 9 hours. (B, D)
Trekking to higher elevations
Day 10: Our trek across the high plateau takes us through open meadows with grand views of the Sudirman limestone escarpment, punctuated by Carstensz Pyramid. We cross New Zealand Pass (12,000’+) just prior to reaching our camp near three lakes. Trekking time is approximately 9 hours. (B, D)
Trek to Larson Lake
Day 11: We travel across a high country of exposed limestone and alpine meadows to arrive at Carstensz Base Camp mid-day. Base Camp sits beautifully nestled along the shores of a blue-water alpine lake at nearly 13,900’. Trekking time is approximately 5 hours. (B, D)
Arriving at Base Camp
Day 12: The day is spent near Base Camp practicing techniques and preparing for the summit climb. (B, D)
Training Day
Day 13: Summit Day! Following an alpine start, we initially climb a series of 4th and low 5th class rock gullies before traversing along the narrow summit ridge and over several small notches, to the summit. The climbing involves mostly scrambling, with dramatic exposure and a few short sections of mid 5th class climbing. We use available fixed lines and a Tyrolean traverse to bypass many of the difficulties. The descent involves multiple rappels on fixed lines. Total climbing time is approximately 14 - 18 hours. (B, D)
Summit DayThe summit of Carstensz Pyramid
Day 14: Weather Day. This extra day is scheduled into the itinerary in case we encounter poor weather or need additional time for acclimatization. (B, D)
Day 15: We begin our trek out by re-ascending New Zealand Pass and returning to the edge of the high plateau. Trekking time is approximately 9 - 10 hours. (B, D)
Beginning the trek out
Day 16: Retracing our steps across the remainder of the high plateau, we cross the marsh to the edge of the jungle. Trekking time is approximately 9 hours. (B, D)
Trekking through the jungle
Day 17: We spend a full day trekking through the thickness of the jungle to a camp at the edge of a remote Moni village. Trekking time is approximately 8 - 10 hours. (B, D)
Sunset over the New Guinea jungle
Day 18: We trek the final stretch though the jungle, returning to the village of Sugapa. Trekking time is approximately 7 hours. (B, D)
Days 19 & 20: Contingency Days. These two days are added into the itinerary in case we are unable to fly out of Sugapa due to poor visibility or weather. (B, D)
Day 21: A morning flight takes us out of the mountains and back to Timika, where we enjoy a well-deserved hot shower, some fantastic food and some time by the pool. Celebration dinner and overnight at the Rimba Papua. (B, D)
Day 22: We leave the island of New Guinea and fly to Denpasar, Bali. Overnight at the Best Western Resort Kuta. (B)
Day 23: Return flights from Denpasar, Bali to the U.S. (B)
Carstensz Pyramid Equipment List
The following is a list of required equipment. We may encounter a variety of weather conditions throughout our climb, including rain, wind, snow, sleet and extreme heat. Skimping on equipment can jeopardize your safety and success, so we want you to think carefully about any changes or substitutions you are considering. If you have questions regarding the equipment needed for your upcoming climb, give us a call and speak directly to one of our experienced guides.
Most of the required equipment is available for rent or purchase from our affiliate Whittaker Mountaineering. RMI climbers receive a 10% discount on new clothing and equipment items ordered from Whittaker Mountaineering. This offer excludes sale items. For internet orders, please use the discount code RMI 2013.
Pack & Bag Guides' Pick
2 DUFFEL BAG(S): 100+ liter bag(s) made of tough, waterproof material with rugged zippers. One duffel will be taken on the mountain and carried by the porters through the rainy forest. The other duffel can be smaller and lighter duty and will be left at the hotel with extra gear and clothing.
PACK COVER: Protects your pack from rain while on the trail.
SLEEPING BAG:
A synthetic bag rated to 10° to 15° F. A waterproof bag is preferred, but not mandatory.
The temperature rating system for sleeping bags is arbitrary and is not a guarantee of warmth. Base your selection on how well you do in the cold. If you tend to sleep on the cold side, choose a bag rated on the lower end of the temperature range.
Technical Gear Guides' Pick
CLIMBING HARNESS: A comfortable, adjustable climbing harness with a few accessible gear loops. Adjustable leg loops are essential.
RAPPEL DEVICE: A figure eight rappel device is required. Other devices will not work as well on thick diameter fixed lines.
15 ' PERLON CORD: 7 mm cordelette in one continuous length.
Head Guides' Pick
NECK GAITER
BUFF OR BANDANA: A buff or bandana provides good protection from the sun and dust as well as insulation from the cold, dry air.
CONTACT LENSES/ EYEGLASSES: Spare prescription glasses if you wear contact lenses/eyeglasses.
SUNGLASSES: Quality sunglasses with some side protection or wrap-around sunglasses are needed. Super dark glacier glasses are not necessary.
Hands Guides' Pick
2 LIGHTWEIGHT GLOVE(S): A glove with a leather or grip palm is best. Fleece- or wool-palmed gloves are too slippery when rappeling.
LEATHER GLOVE: Durable, waterproof leather gloves are necessary for rappeling and climbing on the abrasive limestone of Carstensz.
HEAVY-DUTY RUBBER WORK GLOVE: These might be used in combination with other gloves, but should be heavy duty enough to be used alone. Consider an additional pair of lightweight rubber gloves to be used as liners with other gloves.
Upper Body Guides' Pick
2 LIGHT TO MEDIUM WEIGHT BASELAYER: Long-sleeve wool or synthetic top will be used as your base layer. Zip-neck styles will allow for better temperature regulation.
2 NON-COTTON HIKING SHIRT: Lightweight, long sleeve, synthetic shirt. We use long sleeves for protection against the sun, insects and as a guard against cuts and abrasions.
Lower Body Guides' Pick
CLIMBING PANT: Synthetic climbing pants offer a wide range of versatility. You can wear them alone on hot days, or in combination with the base layer on cold days. The thickness (insulation quality) should be based on how well you do in the cold and the temperatures expected on your climb.
2 HARD SHELL PANT: A high-quality, waterproof pant. Full-length side zippers are required for facilitating quick clothing adjustments over boots.
LIGHT WEIGHT TREKKING PANT: A lightweight, synthetic pair of pants is a good option for the approach trek when hiking at lower altitudes and in warm conditions. These pants have no insulation, are typically made of thin nylon, and commonly feature zippers to convert between pants and shorts.
Feet
RUBBER BOOTS: High quality knee-high rubber boots with good grip for traveling in muddy terrain. Lace up or buckle closures are highly recommended since the provide a snug fit that reduces that chance of the boot being pulled off in deep mud. We recommend the non-insulated models.
CLIMBING BOOTS: Look for waterproof climbing boots with rubber soles and a rubber rand that extends up the side and covers the toes.
- La Sportiva Trango S Evo GTX
- La Sportiva Trango S Evo GTX
TREKKING BOOTS / APPROACH SHOES: One pair of sturdy trekking boots or approach shoes for trekking and wearing around camp. These must be waterproof.
RIVER SHOE / CAMP SHOE: Lightweight water shoe with covered toe for river crossings and camp wear.
Miscellaneous Items Guides' Pick
EXTRA BATTERIES FOR HEADLAMP: Lithium batteries perform best in cold environments.
MEALS: See the Food tab for suggestions and quantities.
2 WATER BOTTLES: One-quart water bottles are required. Wide mouth bottles are ideal since their opening is less likely to freeze.
AQUAMIRA: Chlorine Dioxide water purification drops.
8 GARBAGE BAGS (Large): We recommend lining your backpack with garbage bags to keep items in your backpack completely dry.
ZIP-LOCK BAGS: Please bring 10 gallon-size bags and 10 quart-size bags. These are used to protect various items from the rain as well as serve as personal trash bags.
INSECT REPELLENT
UMBRELLA: Small and lightweight.
LUGGAGE LOCKS: For your duffel bags. Must be TSA approved.
CAMERA
WATCH with alarm and light: Altimeter models are popular.
Travel Clothes
2 CASUAL PANTS
4 SHIRTS: For hotel dinners and while traveling.
SWEATER / SWEATSHIRT
SWIMSUIT
COMFORTABLE SHOES: Consider sandals as your "comfortable shoes," though take care to select a shoe that protects the toes (no flip flops, for example)
Toilet Articles
TOOTHBRUSH
PERSONAL CATHOLE TROWEL
PEE BOTTLE: 1 to 1 1/2 quart size
Personal First Aid Kit
ANTIBIOTIC OINTMENT (FOR CUTS & SCRAPES)
BAND-AIDS
ASPRIN / IBUPROFEN / TYLENOL
BLISTER TREATMENT
ANTACIDS
IMODIUM (ANTI-DIARRHEA)
PEPTO-BISMOL (STOMACH RELIEF)
SMALL ROLL OF ADHESIVE TAPE
Personal Medications
ANTIBIOTICS: Broad spectrum antibiotics for Traveler's Diarrhea.
ANTIBIOTICS: Antibiotics for upper respiratory infection.
TYLENOL #3: Tylenol 3 for pain
ACETAZOLAMIDE: For Altitiude Illness
ANTI-MALARIA MEDICATIONS
Utensils Guides' Pick
Travel Documents
PASSPORT: Valid for six months beyond your return date.
COPY OF PASSPORT: The first two pages of your passport.
COPY OF FLIGHT ITINERARY
EXTRA PASSPORT PHOTOS
Optional Items
SLEEPING MASK
CLEANSING FACE WIPES
WATERLESS SHAMPOO
READING MATERIAL / JOURNAL
iPOD or MP3 PLAYER
PERSONAL SOLAR CHARGER: A small solar panel is a great way to charge your iPod or camera.
HAND LOTION
FOOT POWDER
Provided Equipment
RMI provides the following equipment for your program: group and personal tents, stoves, group cooking equipment, fuel, climbing ropes, climbing anchors, fixed ropes, and comprehensive first aid and repair kits.
Pre-Trip Checklist
Purchase travel insurance.
Return the Participant Information Form to the RMI Office.
Purchase airplane tickets.
Reserve rental equipment.
Be in the Best Shape of Your Life!
Meals
Breakfasts and dinners are included in the cost of the program as indicated in our Trip Itinerary. Your trip fee does not include lunches, bottled water and drinks. RMI does not provide additional meals in the event of a delayed flight to Sugapa at the start of our trek.
Please list any special dietary needs on the Participant Information Form. The form must be returned to the RMI Office 90 days prior to the program departure date.
Mountain Lunches
You are responsible for your own mountain lunches for 15 days. Lunch items should weigh about 10 lbs. We will have an opportunity to purchase additional food in Timika, but we recommend you take what you need and only supplement with local food if necessary.
Take lunch foods that you genuinely enjoy. Eating well is the key to maintaining your strength while in the mountains. And in order to combat the loss of appetite at altitude, it is best to have a variety of foods from which to choose, from sweet to sour to salty.
Lunch snacks are eaten during short breaks throughout the day while in the mountains. Avoid packing any items that require preparation or hot water.
Recommended mountain lunch items: dry salami, smoked salmon, jerky (turkey, beef), small cans of tuna fish, individually wrapped cheeses, crackers, bagels, candy bars, hard candies (Jolly Ranchers, Toffees, Life Savers), Gummy Bears, sour candies (Sweet Tarts), cookies, dried fruit, nuts, energy bars, trail mixes, and drink mixes (Gatorade/Kool-Aid). All items should be commercially packaged.
Mountain Breakfasts and Dinners
The breakfast menu includes items such as minute oatmeal, cold cereals, hot drinks (coffee, tea, cocoa, cider) and supplements (cheeses, crackers, dried fruits).
Dinner usually begins with hot drinks and soup and ends with dessert. Healthy one-pot meals, incorporating fresh food whenever practical, are served as the main course. One typical main course dinner might be pasta with meat, sauce and spices. Another meal might include rice with vegetables. There are limitations, but the menu is planned to offer good variety and ample portions.
Qualifications
Our Carstensz Pyramid program is for adventurers in excellent physical condition with moderate technical climbing ability. You should be confident moving on third-, fourth- and easy fifth-class rock, on fixed ropes, and through multiple rappels.
Please submit the RMI Registration Form prior to securing your reservation.
This trip is open to individuals who possess:
- Excellent physical fitness
- Confidence to move quickly and competently on easy fifth-class terrain
- Proficiency with technical climbing skills including clipping in and out of anchors, belaying, use of ascenders on fixed lines, multiple rappels, and familiarity with Tyrolean traverses
- Previous high mountain experience
Recommended climbing experiences prior to Carstensz include:
- West Ridge of Forbidden Peak
- Fisher Chimneys on Shuksan
- Expedition Skills Seminar on Mt. Rainier or Alaska
- Mexico's Volcanoes
- Ecuador's Volcanoes
The altitude, length of trip, the remoteness of the area, and the technical nature of the climb all contribute to make this a challenging and demanding adventure.
Physical Fitness Training
Mountaineering requires a high degree of physical stamina and mental toughness. Even for the healthiest and fittest individuals, climbing mountains qualifies as an extremely challenging endeavor.
- Start immediately. Start a rigorous fitness and training program now with the goal of arriving in top physical condition and confident in your skills.
- Be intentional. Focus on gaining the necessary strength, stamina and skills to meet the physical and technical demands of the climb.
- Be sport-specific. The best fitness and training program mimics the physical and technical demands of your climbing objective. The closer you get to your program date, the more your training should resemble the climbing.
For Carstensz, you are preparing for:
- Steep hiking with 40 lb. loads
- 12-14+ hour summit day
- Exposed fourth-class climbing
- Several hundred feet of low fifth-class rock
- Several Tyrolean traverses
- 15-20 rappels
- The Carstensz area is usually rainy and you should expect to spend at least some time travelling and climbing in the rain.
- Mountaineering techniques which require core strength and flexibility
Nothing ensures a personally successful adventure like your level of fitness and training. Bottom line: Plan on being in the best shape of your life and ready for a very challenging adventure!
Please refer to our Resources for Mountaineering Fitness and Training for detailed fitness and training information.
Acclimatization
The key to climbing high is proper acclimatization. Our program follows a calculated ascent profile which allows time for your body to adjust to the altitude.
Excellent physical conditioning significantly increases your ability to acclimatize as you ascend. Climbers in excellent physical condition simply have more energy to commit to the acclimatization process throughout the days and nights of the ascent, allowing their bodies to adjust to the altitude more easily.
Finally, physical performance and acclimatization are also related to how well you have taken care of yourself throughout the hours, days and weeks prior to summit day. Arriving healthy and well-rested, maintaining proper hydration and caloric intake, and protecting against unnecessary heat loss (staying warm) or overheating (especially through the jungle) are all key factors in an individual’s success on an expedition such as this.
Travel Consultant
RMI has partnered with Erin Rountree to provide comprehensive travel support, both with regards to travel arrangements, evacuation policies and insurance options. We have been working with Erin for many years. As an independent agent of the Travel Society, she has booked countless miles for adventure travelers across the globe and is extremely knowledgeable about the travel needs of our programs. Even if you are a seasoned traveler capable of organizing your own travel arrangements, consider contacting her if you wish to avoid sifting through the variety of evacuation policies and insurance options on the market. Call (208) 788-2870 or email at etravel@cox.net.
Cancellation Insurance, Medical Evacuation & Security Evacuation
We strongly encourage everyone to purchase Travel Insurance which can cover trip cancellation, interruption, delay, baggage loss or delay, medical expenses, medical evacuation, repatriation and more. The wise traveler, while perhaps able to walk away from the non-refundable cost of an adventure, recognizes that travel insurance offers the best possible protection in the event of a sudden, unexpected illness or injury prior to or when traveling. Note that many of the insurance options can be purchased under one policy but some coverage may only be available if purchased within 14 days of making your trip deposit or if purchased as an upgrade to an existing policy rather than as a stand-alone option.
Due to the remote nature of this particular program, we require everyone to purchase a medical evacuation policy with minimum coverage of $500,000. Additionally, we encourage participants to consider a security evacuation policy.
Cancellation Insurance: Cancellation insurance offers protection of deposit and registration funds should you need to cancel from a program. This might be due to an injury during training, a personal illness, or it might be due to extenuating circumstances, such as family emergencies. Check with the insurance providers listed below for specific coverage details and options, including adventure/sports coverage.
Medical Evacuation: An illness or injury in a remote area could require a medical evacuation costing well over $100,000. For this reason, we require everyone to purchase a medical evacuation policy with minimum coverage of $500,000. Travel insurance providers (such as AIG Travel Guard and Travelex Insurance) typically offer reimbursement for medical evacuations. Additionally, crisis response companies (such as Global Rescue) can orchestrate an actual field rescue as necessary in medical, security or other evacuation situations, even from extremely remote areas. Check with the insurance providers listed below for specific coverage details and options, including details of what constitutes a medical vs. a non-medical emergency.
Security Evacuation: This policy offers crisis evacuation services in non-medical situations. Examples include evacuations from areas affected by natural disasters, war or conflict zones, terrorism, and other areas in which participant security is threatened. RMI purchases Security Evacuation Policies from Global Rescue for its guides on this program.
For more information, please visit one of the websites below or contact your local travel agent.
| AIG Travel Guard | Erin Rountree |
| Travelex Insurance | Global Rescue |
Getting There
Our expedition will begin and end in Bali, Indonesia. Your flight will require approximately 24 - 36 hours to reach the capital city of Denpasar, Bali (DPS) and will cross the International Date Line. Most flights from the United States require a stop in a major city such as Tokyo, Singapore, Taipei, or Bangkok en route to Denpasar. Flights generally arrive in Denpasar in the afternoon on Day 2 of the itinerary. Departing flights may be booked for any time on Day 23 of the itinerary.
Entry Information
Visa: We are required to obtain a standard tourist visa when entering Indonesia. We recommend obtaining a “Visa on Arrival” ($25) in Denpasar, Bali.
Passport: A passport valid for 6 months beyond your expected return date, with two entirely blank pages, is required when entering Indonesia.
Surat Jalan: The special permits for travelling and climbing in Papua (known as the "Surat Jalan") will be obtained by RMI.
Arrival
Upon arrival at the Ngurah Rai International Airport in Denpasar, follow signs to the Arrivals Building. First proceed to the Visa-on-Arrival booth. Check that the date covers your complete stay. Then head to the Immigrations desk for foreign travelers.
Once you receive your bags from Baggage Claim, proceed to Customs. There will be a random selection of bags for inspection. Be sure to keep your bags together. RMI guide Alex Van Steen will meet you once you have cleared Customs. We will then transfer to our hotel.
Immunizations / Travel Medicine
For the most updated information on inoculation requirements and recommendations, please refer to the Centers for Diseases Control and Prevention.
Health
Water: The number one rule is: don't drink the water, and that includes shower water and ice! Brush your teeth with purified water rather than tap water. You should check bottled water for a good seal and use a napkin to wipe dry excess moisture in drinking glasses. Take care with fruit juice, particularly if it has been diluted with water. Carefully clean the tops of bottled beverages before opening.
Mosquitoes: Be careful to protect yourself from mosquitoes while in Bali. Use DEET meticulously and spray your room before you go to sleep.
Money
Bring about $500 to Indonesia for restaurant meals, drinks, additional snacks, shopping, and pocket money. Exchanging money in Bali is quite easy and there are a number of money changers immediately outside of Customs/Immigrations. You may choose to bring more depending on your shopping plans and length of stay.
We find that credit cards are generally the easiest way to pay for restaurants. We recommend you balance the amount of cash you bring with the ability to get money in Indonesia and suggest using your credit card whenever possible.
Tipping
Tipping is generally included with the bill in restaurants in Bali and Timika. In Papua and for our porters on the mountain, tipping is becoming somewhat normalized, though no solid guidelines exist yet. RMI has designated an appropriate Rupiah amount to distribute to our local staff, and you are welcome to add to that pool.
Our guides work hard to ensure your well being and success on the mountain. If you have a positive experience, gratuities are an excellent way to show your appreciation. Amounts are at your discretion and should be based on your level of enjoyment. Tips for excellent service normally average 10 – 15% of the cost of the program.
Medical Emergencies
The general level of sanitation and health care in Indonesia is far below U.S. standards. Some routine medical care is available in all major cities, although most travelers leave the country for all but the simplest medical procedures. If a hospital were needed, care should be sought in Java (Jakarta), Singapore, or Australia rather than in Timika or Jayapura. A current list of English-speaking doctors and hospitals is available via the U.S. Embassy Jakarta's website.
Global Rescue provides advisory, rescue and evacuation services to climbers and trekkers who purchase memberships. RMI purchases medical assistance and security evacuation coverage for the guides on this program and we strongly encourage you to consider the same. Global Rescue provides:
• 24 hr medical advisory services from critical care paramedics and in-house physicians
• Field Rescue from the point of illness or injury
• Evacuation back to the member’s home hospital of choice
• Deployable medical personnel in the case of hospitalization abroad
Electricity
There are three Indonesian outlets. All are 220V/230V, 50 Hz. Voltage in Papua is unstable. A universal plug adaptor and step-down (220-to-110 V) traveler’s voltage converter are necessary for charging phones, computers, etc.
Oceania
Oceania is a region centered on the islands of the tropical Pacific Ocean. The term is sometimes used to denote the area of Australasia or sometimes all the islands between Asia and the Americas.
Australasia includes Australia and the island group of Indonesia. This relocates the “seventh summit” from the Australian continent (Kosciuszko) to the Australasian highpoint (Carstensz).
Indonesia consists of more than 17,500 islands spread over 3,400 miles along the Equator. The main islands are Java, Sumatra, Bali, Kalimantan (Borneo), Sulawesi (Celebes), Papua, Halmahera, and Seram. The capital, Jakarta, lies in the lowlands of West Java. The country has approximately 246,000,000 people and more than 300 ethnic groups. Indonesia's geographic location and topography make the country prone to natural disasters, especially seismic upheaval due to its location on the "Ring of Fire," an arc of volcanoes and fault lines encircling the Pacific Basin. Indonesia is a developing country with a growing economy and severe infrastructure shortcomings.
New Guinea is comprised of Papua (western half) and Papua New Guinea (or PNG; the eastern half). The straight north-south line that separates Papua from Papua New Guinea is a colonial era legacy: an arbitrary line that demarcated the Dutch held portion of the island from that held by Great Britain and Germany.
Papua is the largest province of Indonesia, and includes the western half of New Guinea. Papua is home to approximately 250 to 300 different tribes. The central mountainous region of Papua is home to the highland peoples, who practice pig husbandry and sweet potato cultivation. The lowland peoples live in swampy and malarial coastal regions, and live by hunting the abundant game, and gathering. The people are ethnically distinct from the Indonesians who control their country. The evolution from Papua’s status as the former colony of Netherlands New Guinea to its current place in the Indonesian state is long and complex.
Carstensz Pyramid is located in the Central Mountain Range that crosses the entire island of New Guinea. In Papua, the Central Range’s Maoke Mountains (a translation of “Sneeuwgebergte” or “Snow Mountains”) include the Sudirman Range, which is dominated by Carstensz Pyramid at 16,023 ft./4,884 m. The Indonesian name for Carstensz is Puncak Jaya, meaning “Victory Peak.” The Moni name for Carstensz is Mbai Ngela, meaning "Forbidden Egg." The story is that in years gone by when the mountain was snow covered, it resembled an egg, and the fore-fathers forbade their people from going there because it was the hunting grounds of evil spirits and those spirits always killed those who ventured there. Even today, villagers have a very difficult time understanding the science of hypothermia and often will point to and tell of places along the way where the spirits have killed a poor wayfarer!
Weather
Lying along the equator, Indonesia has a tropical climate, with distinct monsoonal wet and dry seasons. Average annual rainfall in the lowlands varies from 70 to 125 inches, and up to 240 inches in the mountain. The rainiest months are November through March. After March the weather stabilizes, though it can still rain every day. Rain is part of the jungle! While there are brief periods of dry weather, they are not predictable. Humidity is high, averaging about 80%. Temperatures vary little throughout the year; the average daily temperature of Jakarta is 79-86 degrees F. For current weather conditions, check Weather Underground.
Travel Advisories / Warnings
Please confirm any current travel advisories / warnings as well as entry requirements with the U.S. Department of State.
Resources
Introducing Papua and Highlands of Papua by Kal Muller, 2011. Kal, a respected authority and prolific writer on the indigenous peoples of Papua, wrote the texts in this series primarily to help indigenous Papuan students understand their rich heritage and culture. You can read Chapter 1 of Introducing Papua and Chapter 7 of Highlands of Papua here.
Peace Child by Don Richardson, 2005. In 1962, Don and Carol Richardson lived as missionaries among the Sawi people, a Papuan tribe which practiced headhunting and cannibalism. While such practices have not been recorded among the highland tribes where we will travel, the Richardson’s experiences help us understand some of the cultural values we notice throughout our trip.
Payments
A deposit of $2,500 per person secures your reservation. Final payment is due 120 days prior to the start of your program. Final payments may be made via check or wire transfer only. Trips departing within 120 days must be paid in full at the time of reservation.
We will send a payment reminder approximately three weeks before your payment is due. If your final payment is not received within 120 days of the program your reservation will be cancelled and all fees forfeited.
Cancellations
Unfortunately, due to the time-sensitive nature of our business, and the difficulty in re-booking a trip close to departure, there will be no refunds for cancellations.
Cancellation Insurance: We strongly suggest that everyone purchase travel insurance. Please see our Travel Page for details.
Land Cost
Included are the following:
- RMI Leadership
- All domestic flights from Denpasar (Bali) to Papua and return
- All internal flights, whether fixed-wing or helicopter
- Hotel accommodations as stated in the itinerary (based on double occupancy*)
- All breakfasts and dinners as stated in the itinerary
- All group camping & climbing equipment
- Special permits for travelling & climbing in Papua
- Papuan leadership and guide staff
- Porter support for up to 15 kgs of personal equipment from Sugapa to Base Camp and return
- Camp staff and cooking staff
Not included are the following:
- International round-trip airfare and travel expenses to/from Bali. (Bali is served by daily connections to many international transit centers, including Tokyo, Singapore, Taipei, Bangkok, etc.)
- Accommodations and meals not included in the itinerary. (RMI does not provide additional accommodations and meals in the event that our flight to Sugapa delays our departure.)
- Medical evacuation insurance of $500,000 (required)
- Travel Insurance and security evacuation insurance
- Personal clothing and equipment
- Indonesian tourist visas
- Airport arrival and departure taxes
- Indonesian customs duties
- Excess baggage charges
- Personal communications (Satellite phone, phone, fax, email)
- Personal expenses, room charges and laundry
- Personal drinks and beverages
- Customary guide gratuities
- Rescue costs or costs associated with early departure from the expedition
- Medical, hospitalization and evacuation costs (by any means)
- The cost of delays due to weather, road or trail conditions, flight delays, government intervention, illness, medical issues, hospitalization, evacuation costs (by helicopter or any other means), or any other contingency which we or our agents cannot control are not included.
* Single Travelers: If you wish to share accommodations, we will assign you a roommate. If you wish to stay alone, a supplemental fee will be charged for a single room. The single supplement is not available in huts, tents, or in all hotels.
Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. reserves the right to modify the land cost of a trip at any time before departure. We also reserve the right to cancel any program due to inadequate signups, weather, or route conditions. In such a case, a full refund is given; however, RMI is not responsible for any additional expenses incurred in preparing for the program (i.e., airline tickets, equipment purchase or rental, hotel reservations).
Risk Management
Safety is RMI's number one priority. Our guides manage significant hazards inherent in mountaineering such as avalanches, ice fall, rock fall, inclement weather, and high winds, but they cannot eliminate them. RMI guides draw from their wealth of experience and training to make sound decisions that improve your chance of reaching the summit without compromising the necessary margin of safety.
Please clearly understand that mountaineering is inherently a hazardous sport. You are choosing to engage in an activity in which participants have been injured and killed. While those accidents are indeed infrequent, they may occur at any time and be out of our control. We ask that participants acknowledge the risk and hazards of mountaineering, and make their own choices about whether or not to engage in this activity.
Climber Responsibilities
Mountaineering is both an individual challenge and a team endeavor. Some of the responsibility for the team is carried by the individual climbers. For this reason, we ask that each participant:
- is physically and mentally fit, properly attired and equipped, and continues to self assess throughout the program to ensure as safe a climb as possible. If a climber's own physical fitness limits his or her ability to safely continue upward, that can have a negative impact on the summit experience or opportunity of other climb participants.
- honestly and accurately describe themselves, in terms of fitness, health and skills, and their equipment to their guides, and that they adhere to the advice of their professional mountain guide.
Age-Appropriate Guidelines & Restrictions
In the interest of the safety and well-being of all participants, RMI adheres to the following age-appropriate guidelines and restrictions on all climbing programs, domestic and international.
- Ages 15 & under: No participants age 15 & under
- Ages 16 & 17: Accompanied by parent or legal guardian
- Ages 18 & above: No restrictions
An individual’s birthday must precede the departure date of the program. For example: a 15 year old who turns 16 on July 1 may participate on a program beginning July 2.
Accompaniment by parent or legal guardian is required for the program or climb.
Under-aged participants on Private Climb or Group Climb programs are assessed on an individual basis.
General Policies
RMI's program plans and itineraries are subject to change or adjustment based on a number of factors. These include, but are not limited to, route conditions, weather, terrain, and many other factors. RMI has complete discretion to change plans to accommodate any of these or other factors, including discretion to change program schedule or itinerary, and change guides or staff, as necessary for the proper and safe conduct of the program.
We reserve the right to cancel any program due to inadequate signups, weather or route conditions. In such a case, a full refund is given; however, RMI cannot be responsible for any additional expenses incurred in preparing for the program (i.e., airline tickets, equipment purchase or rental, hotel reservations).
RMI cannot guarantee that you will reach the summit. Weather, route conditions, your own abilities, or the abilities of other climbers may create circumstances that make an ascent unsafe, and you or your entire party may have to turn around without reaching the summit. Failure to reach the summit due to a person's own lack of fitness or to any of the events associated with mountaineering (such as weather, route, avalanche hazard, team dynamics, etc.), are not Rainier Mountaineering, Inc.'s responsibility and will not result in refund or reschedule.
If the Participant decides to leave a trip at any time after the start of the trip and prior to its conclusion, he or she will not be entitled to a refund.
RMI reserves the right to dismiss the Participant from a trip or to send the Participant to a lower altitude at any time if RMI determines, in its sole discretion, that the Participant is not physically, technically, or psychologically prepared for or capable of participating in the program.