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Aconcagua Dispatches
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January 7 - 30, 2010 Aconcagua Expedition
Lead Guide: Gabriel Barral
January 7, 2010
Expedition begins with flights into Mendoza arriving January 8th.
January 7 - 30, 2010 Aconcagua Expedition
Lead Guide: Gabriel Barral
January 10, 2010
Hello this is Gabriel checking in with our group in Argentina. We left Mendoza yesterday and traveled closer to the mountain. We spent the night in the small town of Los Penitentes. Everyone is doing well and enjoying the steak, bread and wine of Argentina. Today we will hike to Pampa La Lenas. We are all looking forward to stretching our legs and getting on the trail. The weather has been great and we will continue to update you on our progress.
January 7 - 30, 2010 Aconcagua Expedition
Lead Guide: Gabriel Barral
January 11, 2010
Hi everybody,
This is Gabriel checking in from Aconcagua, we are at Casa de Piedra at 10,700'. Yesterday and today we have hiked through the Vacas Valley and everybody in the team did great.
Finally, this afternoon we caught our first view of Aconcagua. The spirit of the team is very high and everybody is enjoying the trip. Today we had a persistent front wind during the hike, but the good thing is that the winds on the top of the mountain
and at high camps were much stronger these past few days and we were not there.
Tomorrow morning we will cross the river with the help of the mules, so we will see who in the team receives the "Best Mule Rider!" Award. Later in the afternoon we will get to Plaza Argentina, our Basecamp were we will spend a few days.
We will be sending more dispatches and some pictures from Aconcagua basecamp.
Gabriel, Tyler and Jake.
January 7 - 30, 2010 Aconcagua Expedition
Lead Guide: Gabriel Barral
January 12, 2010
This is the RMI team checking from Plaza Argentina.
Today we had a beautiful day, weather was nicer than yesterday (no wind) and everybody arrived at basecamp in great style.
At our new home here at Plaza Argentina, we settled in, setting camp and saying goodbye to our mules who have carried the bulk of our gear to basecamp.
After a long day that we started very early, waking up at 5:45, we had a succulent stew and went to bed early to recover from our long day. Tomorrow we will rest and work on the food and gear that we will be carrying to Camp 1 the next day.
Now at 21:30 the night's calm, something that didn't happened yesterday. According to descending climbers we passed along the trail, high winds hit basecamp, damaging tents and reminding us that here in the Andes we have to be prepared and do a good job setting camp.
We will be reporting more news from Plaza Argentina.
Gabriel, Tyler and Jake.
January 7 - 30, 2010 Aconcagua Expedition
Lead Guide: Gabriel Barral
January 14, 2010
Today we carried to Camp 1 (16,400'). It took 4:30hs to get there and 2hs to get back to basecamp. Everybody did great work carrying the loads (food, fuel and some personal gear). This evening the mountain offered us a nice surprise, it snowed 1 or 2 inches so now the mountain looks brown and white, beautiful views!
Tomorrow we will rest and prepare for our move to Camp 1 the next day.
We will continue updating.
Gabriel, Tyler and Jake
January 7 - 30, 2010 Aconcagua Expedition
Lead Guide: Gabriel Barral
January 16, 2010
This is the Aconcagua team checking in from Camp 1. Last night we got more snow at Basecamp, not too much, but enough to get the camp completely white when we left this morning. The landscape was unique so we didn't miss the opportunity to take lot of pictures. The group did a great job climbing to C1 today, it took us 4:30hs to get here and everybody is feeling strong. Right now we have started the stoves and will enjoy a nice dinner with vegetarian couscous in a little bit.
Our plan for tomorrow is to carry to our Camp 2 (also known as Campo Lama, because of the remains of a helicopter Lama that crashed there a long time ago).
We hope that everybody there is enjoying the progress of our team, we will keep sending updates!
Gabi, Jake, Tyler and team
January 7 - 30, 2010 Aconcagua Expedition
Lead Guide: Gabriel Barral
January 19, 2010
Yesterday the weather deteriorated during the afternoon, wind picked up to 30 mph and clouds bringing snow arrived. It was the first time that we were forced to have dinner inside the tents. The weather this morning improved a lot at Camp 1, but we could see how hard the wind was blowing by the spin drift. The weather forecast that we got last night for the next few days estimates that the strong winds at 18,000' would continue until this evening and then they will drop significantly. So we decided to spend an extra day at Camp 1 today and to avoid moving camp in these windy conditions. Now, the afternoon conditions at Camp 1 are very nice, so hopefully we are enjoying the beginning of the good weather window that the forecast is calling.
Tomorrow we will move to Camp 2 and then rest a day there.
Gabi, Jake, Tyler and team
January 7 - 30, 2010 Aconcagua Expedition
Lead Guide: Gabriel Barral
January 20, 2010
Today we moved to Camp 2, at 18,000', the team did again a great job climbing to this altitude. The weather had improved to the point that we climbed with a single layer of clothing. Hopefully it continue in this way for a few more days.
Tomorrow most of the team will take a rest day and a small group of us will carry fuel and food to Camp Colera (our Camp 3). This will allow us to move to Camp 3 with a little lighter pack.
Gabi, Jake, Tyler and team
January 7 - 30, 2010 Aconcagua Expedition
Lead Guide: Gabriel Barral
January 21, 2010
Today the weather continues to be very good. Lots of clouds around the region, but very nice temperatures at Camp 2 and mostly sunny all day on Aconcagua.
The team took an active rest day today, we went for a short hike on the slope that is the first section on our way to Camp 3. Part of the group carried three days of group food, extra fuel and stoves to Camp 3 (Camp Colera). There we were able to talk with a couple of groups that just have returned from the summit, they passed along good news about the route conditions, it looks like crampons are needed above Independencia, which will make the climbing less difficult than the scree on the upper part of the route (Travesia and Canaleta).
Tomorrow we will move to Camp 3 (our higher camp) and prepare for our early summit attempt the next morning! We will be sending dispatches from Camp 3.
Gabi, Jake, Tyler and team
January 7 - 30, 2010 Aconcagua Expedition
Lead Guide: Gabriel Barral
January 23, 2010
100% Summit!
We are safe and sound at Camp 3 after reaching the summit with 100% of our team. The weather during the ascent was great and one of the best summit days I have had on Aconcagua. We started very early, at 4:35, because it was predicted to snow this afternoon. It ended up to be a good decision because we just got the beginning of the storm before arriving back at camp.
Now it's snowing hard, but we are cooking in the safety and comfort of the tent. We will enjoy an early dinner and we will go to sleep soon. The team is tired, but everybody is ok and very happy! Tomorrow we will descend to basecamp and the next day we will start the trek out to Pampa de Lenas.
Gabi, Jake and Tyler
January 7 - 30, 2010 Aconcagua Expedition
Lead Guide: Gabriel Barral
January 26, 2010
The team spent their last night on the trek out and has now reached the end of the trail. They will be making the drive back to Mendoza. Everyone is looking forward to good food, wine and a hot shower.
Gabi, Jake and Tyler
RMI Guides
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Gabriel Barral
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Jake Beren
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Tyler Reid
Climbing Team
Lance, Jonathan, Kay, A.K., Dennis, Jordan, Courtney, Bruce, and Ed
Itinerary
Day 1: Depart U.S! Travel to Mendoza, Argentina (MDZ) typically takes 18 - 27 hours from the U.S. depending on your departure city, available connections, and flight times.
Day 2: Upon arrival in Mendoza, we are picked up at the airport and transferred to our hotel. After checking into your room, you can explore the city and the many beautiful parks, or just relax by the pool. We have a team meeting scheduled for 5:00 pm in the hotel lobby. Overnight in Mendoza.
Day 3: We depart from the hotel and head to the permit office to secure the climbing permits for our expedition. With our climbing permits secured, we depart Mendoza head west towards Aconcagua. Gradually driving out of the fertile wine country and into the mountains, we arrive at Los Penitentes (9,000'). Los Penitentes is the center of activity for climbers heading up the mountain, and it is here that we finalize our preparations for the expedition. Overnight in Los Penitentes. (B, D)
Day 4: We begin the approach to our Basecamp at Plaza Argentina. The gradient is initially very mild as we begin our hike on a trail alongside the Vacas River. Temperatures during the day are usually hot as we make this high desert approach, but are often pleasantly warm in the evenings. On the trek, team members carry 20 to 25 pounds in their packs, and remaining personal and group gear is carried by the mules. Our first camp is Pampa de Leñas (9,000'). (B, D)
Day 5: We continue hiking towards Basecamp via the Vacas Valley. After a long day on the trail, we are rewarded with an impressive view of the Eastern Face of Aconcagua, just before we make it to our second night's camp at Casa de Piedra (10,550'). (B, D)
Day 6: We complete the approach to Basecamp by following the Relinchos Valley to Plaza Argentina. Base Camp (13,800') is on a glacial moraine overlooking the river valleys of our approach. Here we bid farewell to our mules and establish camp. (B, D)
Day 7: Packing and organizing our gear is the mission for the day, combined with time for relaxing and acclimatizing. (B, D)
Day 8: Our trek ends and the climb begins with our first carry of the trip. We carry supplies and equipment to Camp 1 at 16,200'. After caching our gear, we will descend to Basecamp for overnight. (B, D)
Day 9: Move to Camp 1. We leave Basecamp and climb back to Camp 1 with our remaining gear and establish our next camp. (B, D)
Day 10: Carry to Camp 2 (Ameghino Col at 17,700'). Today we get our first view to the north across the expansive scree fields heading towards the Guanacos Valley, and the distant, snow covered peaks of the central Andes range now lay at our feet. (B, D)
Day 11: Rest and acclimatization at Camp 1. (B, D)
Day 12: Move to Camp 2 (17,700'). (B, D)
Day 13: Carry to Camp 3 (19,200'). The route to Camp 3 follows a steepening path to the high, broad bench just below the imposing Polish Glacier of Aconcagua. (B, D)
Day 14: Move to Camp 3. (B, D)
Day 15: Rest and acclimatization at Camp 3. (B, D)
Day 16: Move to Camp 4 (High Camp at 20,500') (B, D)
Day 17: Summit Day on Aconcagua! We make an early start for the summit, joining the Ruta Normal. A gradual traverse along the mountain's northwest flank takes us past the Refugio Independencia and to the base of the Canaleta, a 1,000' long couloir leading to the summit ridge. From the top of the Canaleta, it is a straight forward traverse to the summit. After our summit celebration and photos, we begin our descent, returning to High Camp for the night. (B, D)
Day 18: Weather Day
Day 19: Weather Day
Day 20: We continue our descent from High Camp and return to Plaza Argentina Basecamp. (B, D)
Day 21: After we pack up Basecamp and prepare our loads for the mules, we begin our trek out. We descend down the Relinchos Valley and the Vacas valley to Pampa de Leñas. We celebrate our last night on the mountain with a traditional BBQ. (B, D)
Day 22: We finish the trek, reaching Los Penitentes early in the afternoon. After packing our gear, we leave Los Penitentes and drive back to Mendoza. Our final evening in this beautiful city is the perfect place for our team celebration. Overnight in Mendoza. (B)
Day 23: Depart Mendoza for scheduled flights back to the U.S.
Day 24: Arrive home.
Key: B, L, D = Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner included.