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Aconcagua Dispatches
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January 28 - February 20, 2010 Aconcagua Expedition
Lead Guide: Billy Nugent
January 28, 2010
Expedition begins with flights into Mendoza arriving January 29th.
January 28 - February 20, 2010 Aconcagua Expedition
Lead Guide: Billy Nugent
January 31, 2010
Hello everyone!
Well, after a lot of hustling around Mendoza; scrambling to both purchase and obtain permits (not done in the same location) and then go grocery shopping, we made it out of town and into the mountains! After a late evening and early morning of packing all our supplies at the Grajales facility in Penitentes, we were finally ready to hit the trail. We will spend tonight at Pampa de Lenas, our first trek camp.
Unfortunately, after a day of hiking we are still minus one Walter Hailes. Airline cancellations have kept him one step behind us for most of the trip so far. If all goes according to plan he should catch us at tomorrow's camp at Casa de Piedra. The weather has been spectacular and the team is in great spirits!
More to come soon,
Billy and crew.
January 28 - February 20, 2010 Aconcagua Expedition
Lead Guide: Billy Nugent
February 1, 2010
Walter Hailes Rejoins Group!
.... or so the headlines read for this team of hearty mountaineers. Ho ho ho!
Another day of hiking in perfect weather has brought us to our second camp at Casa de Piedra. Today's walk saw only a slight gain in elevation but took us further up the deep and breathtaking Vacas Valley. Huge amounts of relief, enormous floodplains, intense sun, sapphire skies were among the visual treats along the approach. Spirits are high and we look forward to reaching our basecamp at Plaza Argentina tomorrow afternoon!
Rock n' Roll,
Billy, Walt, Andy, & Dan.
January 28 - February 20, 2010 Aconcagua Expedition
Lead Guide: Billy Nugent
February 2, 2010
Hey everybody,
Another day of hiking under blue skies has finally brought us into basecamp. A 5 am wakeup ensured that our crossing of the Vacas River was during low flow, long before the heat of the day accelerated snowmelt. Unfortunately, such an early crossing makes for some seriously numb feet! After fording the river we began our ascent up the Relinchos Valley, 3,000 vertical feet later we rolled into Plaza Argentina. And after a nap and a fat spaghetti dinner, we're ready for a well-deserved rest day tomorrow.
Until then, ciao ciao bacalao!
Billy, Walt, & crew.
January 28 - February 20, 2010 Aconcagua Expedition
Lead Guide: Billy Nugent
February 3, 2010
Today saw, most notably, the arrival of Leif and Jake here at basecamp. It was about as eventful as a rest day could be. We gorged on a bacon, egg, and cheese scramble with grilled onions and peppers, drank mate (pronounced mah-tay) and told stories all afternoon, and then had steak fajitas for dinner. Ooh yeah, we're roughing it all right! Oh yeah, we also packed and sorted provisions for tomorrow's carry to Camp 1. It has been pretty windy, and that trend is supposed to continue, so tomorrow may be a litte tougher than normal. Wish us luck.
Wulpseeya,
Billy and crew.
January 28 - February 20, 2010 Aconcagua Expedition
Lead Guide: Billy Nugent
February 4, 2010
Hey everybody,
Today saw a lot of wind on our carry up to Camp 1 at just over 16,000'. Lots of difficult walking in loose rock, scree, and icy penitentes brought us up to our first cache where we dropped food, fuel, and gear that will be needed on the upper mountain. Tomorrow calls for another rest and acclimitization day before our move up the mountain the following day. We'll check in again tomorrow.
Luego,
Billy, Walt, & crew.
January 28 - February 20, 2010 Aconcagua Expedition
Lead Guide: Billy Nugent
February 5, 2010
We had a windy but great rest day here at basecamp. Drinking mate', telling stories, and pigging out. We enjoyed another delicious scramble for breakfast and then devoured a fat steak dinner. Tomorrow's move to Camp 1 should be a big day but we are certainly ready!
Hoping the wind dies soon,
Billy & crew.
January 28 - February 20, 2010 Aconcagua Expedition
Lead Guide: Billy Nugent
February 6, 2010
Yay!
We made it to Camp 1! All is well, we're a little tired from battling the wind but our camp is now fortified with rock walls and we're settling in. Tomorrow's forecast calls for a LOT of wind so the plan for now is to rest. Then we hope to carry and move to Camp 2 on Monday and Tuesday when the winds should be a little more calm.
Until tomorrow,
RMI team Alpha 9,000 signing off.
January 28 - February 20, 2010 Aconcagua Expedition
Lead Guide: Billy Nugent
February 8, 2010
Well, after a rest day yesterday with crappy weather we awoke this morning to blue skies and very little wind for our carry up to camp 2. The team climbed strongly and it seems after our move uphill tomorrow we should be in a good position to launch our assault on the upper mountain!
Hopefully this high pressure will hold.
Billy, Walt, Dan, & Andy.
January 28 - February 20, 2010 Aconcagua Expedition
Lead Guide: Billy Nugent
February 9, 2010
Howdy all!
A little wind today was no match for our crew as we made short work of our move up to Camp 2 @ 18,000'. Tomorrow will bring our last rest day before we make a concerted push for the summit. Thursday will see us move up to Camp 3, a.k.a. Camp Cholera at just under 20,000' - such a cheerful name. If the weather cooperates we will be making our summit attempt on Friday morning. We'll continue to keep you posted on our progress. Much love to everyone back home!
Billy and crew.
January 28 - February 20, 2010 Aconcagua Expedition
Lead Guide: Billy Nugent
February 10, 2010
Here we go!
Today we spent our last rest day of the trip laying around Helicopter Camp (our camp 2). There are actually pieces of a crashed helicopter lying all over camp! Bundles of electronics, sheet metal, etc. can be found scattered about and some creative climbers have even incorporated the debris into rock walls that serve as windbreaks for tents.
Our plan is to head up to Camp Cholera tomorrow morning and make a summit attempt on Friday morning, weather permitting. There is some concern about the wind but we'll see what kind of conditions we wake up to.
Dan would like to send his love to his family; Kristin, Britta, & Anson.
Thanks for following along everyone, we'll try and check in one last time before our summit bid.
Ciao,
Billy, Walter, & the team.
January 28 - February 20, 2010 Aconcagua Expedition
Lead Guide: Billy Nugent
February 11, 2010
Billy called from their high camp this morning. The weather is beautiful and they are ready to make their summit attempt in the morning. He will call us from the summit, weather permitting, tomorrow.
Wish them luck!
January 28 - February 20, 2010 Aconcagua Expedition
Lead Guide: Billy Nugent
February 12, 2010
100% Summit!
Billy called from the summit this morning. Everyone did well and they are starting their descent back to high camp.
Congratulations Team!
January 28 - February 20, 2010 Aconcagua Expedition
Lead Guide: Billy Nugent
February 13, 2010
Summit success... Now back at basecamp. We had the unfortunate opportunity to see what real wind was all about both on our summit bid and our descent back to basecamp. But now, sitting in real chairs with a hot meal and a successful summit under our belts, everyone knows the hard work was worth it. The crew is elated at the prospect of a hot shower and a real bed on the horizon. Just 1.5 more days of walking til the road, then Mendoza!
Billy
RMI Guides
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Billy Nugent
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Walter Hailes
Climbing Team
Dan and Andy
Itinerary
Day 1: Depart U.S! Travel to Mendoza, Argentina (MDZ) typically takes 18 - 27 hours from the U.S. depending on your departure city, available connections, and flight times.
Day 2: Upon arrival in Mendoza, we are picked up at the airport and transferred to our hotel. After checking into your room, you can explore the city and the many beautiful parks, or just relax by the pool. We have a team meeting scheduled for 5:00 pm in the hotel lobby. Overnight in Mendoza.
Day 3: We depart from the hotel and head to the permit office to secure the climbing permits for our expedition. With our climbing permits secured, we depart Mendoza head west towards Aconcagua. Gradually driving out of the fertile wine country and into the mountains, we arrive at Los Penitentes (9,000'). Los Penitentes is the center of activity for climbers heading up the mountain, and it is here that we finalize our preparations for the expedition. Overnight in Los Penitentes. (B, D)
Day 4: We begin the approach to our Basecamp at Plaza Argentina. The gradient is initially very mild as we begin our hike on a trail alongside the Vacas River. Temperatures during the day are usually hot as we make this high desert approach, but are often pleasantly warm in the evenings. On the trek, team members carry 20 to 25 pounds in their packs, and remaining personal and group gear is carried by the mules. Our first camp is Pampa de Leñas (9,000'). (B, D)
Day 5: We continue hiking towards Basecamp via the Vacas Valley. After a long day on the trail, we are rewarded with an impressive view of the Eastern Face of Aconcagua, just before we make it to our second night's camp at Casa de Piedra (10,550'). (B, D)
Day 6: We complete the approach to Basecamp by following the Relinchos Valley to Plaza Argentina. Base Camp (13,800') is on a glacial moraine overlooking the river valleys of our approach. Here we bid farewell to our mules and establish camp. (B, D)
Day 7: Packing and organizing our gear is the mission for the day, combined with time for relaxing and acclimatizing. (B, D)
Day 8: Our trek ends and the climb begins with our first carry of the trip. We carry supplies and equipment to Camp 1 at 16,200'. After caching our gear, we will descend to Basecamp for overnight. (B, D)
Day 9: Move to Camp 1. We leave Basecamp and climb back to Camp 1 with our remaining gear and establish our next camp. (B, D)
Day 10: Carry to Camp 2 (Ameghino Col at 17,700'). Today we get our first view to the north across the expansive scree fields heading towards the Guanacos Valley, and the distant, snow covered peaks of the central Andes range now lay at our feet. (B, D)
Day 11: Rest and acclimatization at Camp 1. (B, D)
Day 12: Move to Camp 2 (17,700'). (B, D)
Day 13: Carry to Camp 3 (19,200'). The route to Camp 3 follows a steepening path to the high, broad bench just below the imposing Polish Glacier of Aconcagua. (B, D)
Day 14: Move to Camp 3. (B, D)
Day 15: Rest and acclimatization at Camp 3. (B, D)
Day 16: Move to Camp 4 (High Camp at 20,500') (B, D)
Day 17: Summit Day on Aconcagua! We make an early start for the summit, joining the Ruta Normal. A gradual traverse along the mountain's northwest flank takes us past the Refugio Independencia and to the base of the Canaleta, a 1,000' long couloir leading to the summit ridge. From the top of the Canaleta, it is a straight forward traverse to the summit. After our summit celebration and photos, we begin our descent, returning to High Camp for the night. (B, D)
Day 18: Weather Day
Day 19: Weather Day
Day 20: We continue our descent from High Camp and return to Plaza Argentina Basecamp. (B, D)
Day 21: After we pack up Basecamp and prepare our loads for the mules, we begin our trek out. We descend down the Relinchos Valley and the Vacas valley to Pampa de Leñas. We celebrate our last night on the mountain with a traditional BBQ. (B, D)
Day 22: We finish the trek, reaching Los Penitentes early in the afternoon. After packing our gear, we leave Los Penitentes and drive back to Mendoza. Our final evening in this beautiful city is the perfect place for our team celebration. Overnight in Mendoza. (B)
Day 23: Depart Mendoza for scheduled flights back to the U.S.
Day 24: Arrive home.
Key: B, L, D = Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner included.