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Ecuador Dispatches
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June 19 - 29, 2009 Ecuador's Volcanoes Expedition
Lead Guide: Mike Walter
June 19, 2009
Expedition begins with flights into Quito.
June 19 - 29, 2009 Ecuador's Volcanoes Expedition
Lead Guide: Mike Walter
June 20, 2009
Hola from Quito, Ecuador.
Today we spent the day in the capital city of Ecuador, Quito. Everyone is still recovering from a long day of travel to get here. We spent the day going on a city
tour with a local guide. On the tour we visited the colonial parts of town, historic churches, plazas, and the presidential palace, and we learned about the country's
history from pre-Incan times through to the present. We then travelled north of Quito to visit Ecuador's namesake, the Equator. Here we took an interpretive, cultural
tour, got to stand on the true equator, and sample some authentic empanadas, meat and cheese filled turnovers.
A light afternoon rain gave most of us an excuse for a quick siesta before dinner at the Magic Bean restaurant. The rain let up in the evening, and allowed us to wander
the streets of the popular and lively Mariscal district of Quito, which was hopping was nightlife.
Tomorrow we head to Pasachoa, a protected cloud forest and very old volcano, for an acclimatization hike.
I'll keep you posted.
Ciao,
Mike
June 19 - 29, 2009 Ecuador's Volcanoes Expedition
Lead Guide: Mike Walter
June 21, 2009
Buenos dias. Yesterday our team traveled to the Pasachoa protected forest for an acclimatization hike. Despite rain and a muddy trail, we enjoyed our hike through the cloud forest, reaching over 12,500' of altitude before heading back to Quito. Hot showers felt good upon our return, as did dry clothes. We dined at a great authentic Ecuadorian restaurant. Cuy (fried guinea pig) and chicha (fermented corn cider) were sampled, as were the classic dishes of fried pork fritada and llapingachos (potato and cheese patties). This morning the sky is blue with some broken clouds, so were hoping to stay dry on our hike to the climbing hut on the Illiniza volcanoes. This hike will take us to over 15,000', and help prepare us for the altitude on Cotopaxi. I'll be in touch with more updates.
Hasta Luego,
Mike
June 19 - 29, 2009 Ecuador's Volcanoes Expedition
Lead Guide: Mike Walter
June 22, 2009
Buenas noches from Ecuador.
We enjoyed more cooperative weather today for our 2nd acclimitization hike. We reached our destination of
the climbers' hut at the saddle of the Iliniza mountains. The hut sits above 15,500'. Everybody did very well on this high altitude jaunt.
The weather was calm, and the clouds came in and out, affording us views of the summit of Iliniza Norte and the upper slopes of Iliniza Sur.
This evening we're enjoying the coziness of the beautiful and welcoming hacienda Chilcabamba, sitting at 11,800' on the flanks of Cotopaxi.
The clouds are coming in and out, and occasionaly allow us a glimpse at Cotopaxi's summit.
Tomorrow we'll head up to the climbers' hut on Cotopaxi and get in position for a summit attempt. But for now we're going to enjoy the warmth of the wood burning stoves in our rooms.
We'll be in touch.
Ciao,
Mike
June 19 - 29, 2009 Ecuador's Volcanoes Expedition
Lead Guide: Mike Walter
June 24, 2009
Saludos from Ecuador.
Yesterday morning at Chilcabamba we awoke to beautiful weather: clear skies, no wind, and excellent views of Cotopaxi. After driving into Cotopaxi National Park, we hiked up to the climbers'
hut on Cotopaxi at nearly 16,000'. Today there are some scattered snow showers and inntermitent clouds, but nothing too serious. We enjoyed a short hike to the glacier, and a review of ice axe
and cramponing skills. This afternoon we're lounging around the hut. We'll hit the sack early tonight, in order to rest enough before our alpine start--we'll most likely leave for the summit in the middle of the night.
I'll be in touch tomorrow. Hopefully the weather treats us well.
Ciao,
Mike
June 19 - 29, 2009 Ecuador's Volcanoes Expedition
Lead Guide: Mike Walter
June 25, 2009 - SUMMIT
Cotopaxi summit! 100% of our climbing team reached the top of the beautiful 19,600' active volcano. We awoke at midnight to a clear and starry night, and started climbing at 1:30.
A light breeze turned into a strong, cold wind that stayed with us most of the climb, but the skies remained clear and the climbing conditions were excellent. The wind eased on the summit,
and we were treated to a beautiful morning with views of the surrounding peaks: the Ilinizas, Chimborazo, Antisana, and Cayambe, our next climbing destination.
We're all safely off the mountain, and enjoying the ammeneties at the Hacienda La Cienega. I'll touch base tomorrow with more, and hopefully some pictures. But right now there's a shower with my name on it.
Ciao,
Mike
June 19 - 29, 2009 Ecuador's Volcanoes Expedition
Lead Guide: Mike Walter
June 27, 2009
Hola from the Otavalo market.
Last night we stayed in Ecuador's oldest hacienda, Guachala. After a good night's sleep, we traveled north to Otavalo. Currently we're enjoying a few hours in the world
famous market, shopping for souvenirs and experiencing the indigenous culture. After lunch we'll drive up to the climbers' hut on Cayambe. The weather is beautiful right now,
with a light breeze keeping it cool.
With any luck, we'll awake around midnight and summit Cayambe a little after sunrise. Then we're back to Quito for a final celebration dinner together before everyone heads back to the states.
I'll touch base tomorrow to let you know how our climb went.
Hasta manana,
Mike
June 19 - 29, 2009 Ecuador's Volcanoes Expedition
Lead Guide: Mike Walter
June 28, 2009
Video Courtesy of Climber Lee Hoedl
Hola from Ecuador. We're all safely back in Quito, on the last day of our climbing trip. We hoped to climb Cayambe this morning, but the weather took a turn for the worse. All night the wind howled;
by the time I woke at 11:00 pm, a cloud had descended upon the climbers' hut, and everything was covered in ice. I monitored the weather all night and early morning, but it wasn't improving at all.
It was so icy outside that we struggled to stay upright just walking outside to get into our jeeps for the drive back to Quito. We were all excited for the ascent of Cayambe, but such is life in the
mountains. We had great weather for Cotopaxi, and we wouldn't have traded that for anything.
So now we're all resting and packing, enjoying Quito this afternoon. We'll be on our way back north to the states shortly. Tonight we'll have our final dinner together as a team, and celebrate our experiences on the trip.
Thanks for keeping track of our journey!
Mike and the Team
RMI Guide
-
Mike Walter
Climbing Team
Lee, Chris, John, Steve, Adam and Kristina
Itinerary
Day 1: Depart U.S.A. Most flights arrive in Quito in the late evening. Your guides will meet you at the airport and transfer with you to our hotel. Overnight at Hotel Mercure Alameda in Quito.
Day 2: We meet in the hotel lobby for an orientation meeting and our first team breakfast. The day is spent exploring Colonial Quito with a local tour guide. We visit Independence Square, church of La Compania (1605) and the church and monastery of San Francisco (1535). We will also travel 15 minutes north of Quito to the Equatorial Line where we can jump from the northern to the southern hemisphere. There is also time in the afternoon to relax and recover from our flights. Overnight at Hotel Mercure Alameda in Quito. (B)
Day 3: After breakfast we leave the city to explore
Pasachoa Forest Reserve, a 1,000 acre park at the base of the
extinct volcano. The Pasachoa caldera, with its steep flanks and
dense vegetation, is surrounded by some of the last remaining
high altitude forest of the highlands. This enjoyable hike helps
with our acclimatization and prepares us for our upcoming
climbs. We return to Quito and overnight at Hotel Mercure
Alameda. (B)
Day 4: Leaving the city of Quito we travel to Illiniza
Norte, a jagged peak just west of Cotopaxi National Park. This
is our second acclimatization hike; this time to 15,000 feet. We
spend the night in a traditional Ecuadorian farmhouse, located
near the base of Cotopaxi. Overnight at Chilcabamba Eco Lodge.
(B, D)
Day 5: After breakfast, a short drive from Hacienda El
Porvenir takes us to the end of the road at the base of
Cotopaxi. A short 45 minute hike leads to the Jose Ribas Refugio
at 16,000 feet. Overnight at Jose Ribas Refugio. (B, D)
Day 6: In the morning we hike out to the toe of the glacier to focus on reviewing basic mountaineering techniques that will prepare us for our summit attempt. We settle in early in anticipation of our alpine start. Overnight at Jose Ribas Refugio (16,000'). (B, D)
Day 7: Summit day on Cotopaxi (19,348)! With an early alpine start, we use the first hour to approach the glacier. A long, initial pitch gains access to an interesting maze of crevasses on the lower slopes of this beautiful volcano. The ascent then weaves through impressive crevasse fields for several hours before ascending the final steep slopes to the summit. The deep, sheer-walled volcanic crater is an incredibly impressive sight. After our summit celebration and photo session, we descend safely to the hut. Upon reaching the vehicles, we head out of the park to one of Ecuador's most beautiful colonial haciendas, the 300-year old La Cienega. Climbing time is approximately 10 - 12 hours. Overnight at Hosteria La Cienega. (B)
Day 8: Our adventure continues after breakfast as we
travel to the town of Cayambe to relax and explore some of the
local culture. We have the option to visit Otovalo, a town known
for its beautiful woolen products or Cotacachi, a town famous
for its leather industry. After shopping and sightseeing we
transfer to Ecuador's oldest and possibly most historically and
socially important hacienda, the Guachalá. Overnight at Hacienda
Guachalá. (B)
Day 9: Using 4 x 4 vehicles, we drive to the hut at the base
of Cayambe. The afternoon is spent preparing for our summit
attempt, with the option of a short hike. Hiking time is
approximately 1 - 2 hours. Overnight at the climber's hut
(15,300 feet). (B, D)
Day 10: Summit day on Cayambe (18,997')! With an
early alpine start for the summit, our route begins by climbing
through some low rock outcroppings before stepping onto a
spectacularly crevassed glacier. Once on the glacier, the route
climbs directly to the upper reaches of the mountain, where a
challenging final push to the summit awaits us. After enjoying
our success, we descend to our private vehicles, and drive to
Quito for our celebration dinner. Climbing time is approximately
10 - 12 hours. Overnight at Hotel Mercure Alameda in Quito. (B)
Day 11: Early morning transfer to the airport for our outbound flights.
Key: B, L, D = Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner included.