Ecuador Dispatches

Dave Conlan and Crew on Cayambe

Dave Conlan, Ecuador Volcanoes Expedition Lead Guide, February 26 - March 8, 2009

March 7, 2009 :

As we rumbled down the "4-wheeler paradise" road leading us away from Cayambe, we had much to reflect upon as the reality that our climbing adventure down here is about to end. But what a way to end it! This morning part of our team headed out for an attempt to climb the 18,800' volcano, Cayambe. With a very light breeze and an incredibly clear night, we began the approach with great excitement and some worry. Our climb on Cotopaxi began much the same way and ended with us missing the summit due to high winds, low visibility, and very cold tempartures. Keith and Christian headed out with Dave and our local guide, Edgar, up the rocky and sandy maze of a ridge towards the tongue of the glacier. As the minutes passed the weather seemed to improve and provided great entertainment with shooting stars and a moon so bright one almost didn't need a headlamp. Unlike Cotopaxi, Cayambe offers a more forgiving climb up gently sloping glaciers. As we reached about 18,200' the sun began to turn the morning sky red and cast Cayambe's shadow far to the West. The last 600 ft of climbing was more reminiscent of climbing the glaciers on Mt. Rainier, like the Emmons or Ingraham. Weaving in and out of seracs, crevasses, and more moderately steep slopes - fun glacier climbing!

As we reached the summit, we were granted an incredible 360 degree view: to the East, the Amazon rain forest covered in a blanket of clouds; to the Southeast, the mountains Antisana, Cotopaxi, and Chimborazo displayed their greatness; to the Southwest, the Illinizas, both South and North standing proudly adorned with new snow; to the West and Northwest, 'smaller' volcanoes Imbambura and Cotocachi among others. A great vista to reward a great climb.
Our descent seemed effortless, no pain or discomfort from sore feet could ruin that accomplishment. As we hit the rocky ridge after leaving the glacier we were welcomed by the rest of our team, whom woke early to hike up the ridge and watch us climb! This pretty much epitomized our entire trip down here and the sport of mountaineering. Everyone contributed and added great value, wisdom and humor to our team and the experience, no matter the summit or not. Thanks to Doug, George, Dal, Keith, Christian, and Jaime for making this yet another great program for RMI.
Tonight we head out for one more great Ecuadorian meal and (some) prepare for our 'alpine' start for the airport tomorrow morning. For those family and friends following us - thanks for your support! be sure to grab your climber when he returns to share in some of the photos and stories of climbing Cotopaxi and Cayambe.
See you on the next RMI climbing adventure!
Dave and Crew

March 6, 2009 :
The trip may be winding down, but our team is still being intrigued with all Ecuador has to offer. After a wonderful rest at La Cienega, we headed out to visit Hacienda San Augustine. Here we toured the grounds of yet another amazing beautiful hacienda, however this particular compound was built on top of Incan ruins. Several areas of the property have been excavated to reveal the incredible stone work of the Incas. We also had the chance to feed Llamas and gather some fun evidence of what happened to Doug and a llama with an allergy to carrots...On the way to our desitination, Hacienda Guachala, we stopped to replenish our food supply and have a great lunch near Quito. We arrived at Hacienda Guachala, one of the oldest haciendas in Ecuador at over 500 years old. A relaxing afternoon and evening allowed our team to further recover and get ready for our climb on Cayambe.
Today we are now in the vibrant, bussling market town of Otovalo. Here we are experiencing the unique culture of the Otovalan people who have resisted the influences of the Incans and Spaniards. This is also a great place to pick up some souvenirs and experience the thrill of bargaining with the local vendors!
This afternoon, after lunch, we will pile into the jeep once more for our ride to the refugio on Cayambe. Here we will ready ourselves for the climb of this amazing volcano. The equator actually passes through the northwest slopes!
Tomorrow we will depart from Cayambe and return to Quito for a celebratory dinner and get ready to catch our flights home!
Talk to you all soon!
Dave and Crew

March 4, 2009 :
Thanks to all our friends and family for following our adventure down here in Ecuador!
Someone once said about life that it is the journey, not the destination that matters most. The same can be said for climbing mountains, specifically our adventure this morning. Our team rose from a restless slumber just before midnight ready to take on our first objective, Cotopaxi standing tall at 19,300' above sea level. With anticipation pouring from our eyes we scarfed down a quick breakfast, coffee, strapped on packs and headed out into the still night. The Big Dipper, Orion, and the Southern Cross graced the sky as the northern valley glistened with the lights of Quito.
A guide's eye caught building clouds to the north and east, however not uncommon to have clouds below, but good to take a mental note. The beautiful yet challenging slopes of Cotopaxi's glaciers met us with open arms. The past days winds and sun with the evenings cooler temperatures left a firm surface perfect for cramponing. Ice axe in hand, packs on our backs, headlamps illuminating our immediate surroundings, we climbed further up one of the world's highest active volcanoes.
As we climbed over the leeward slopes, a brisk wind nipped at our exposed flesh reminding us to adorn our face protection. The clouds to the Northeast began engulfing the mountain, with wind and cold temperatures intensifying with each minute. Optimistic it could pass, we saught refuge from the biting cold in a natural ice cave just off the route, at about 18,300 feet. When our observations led us to conclude this indeed would not let up, we decided against venturing further up the mountain on it's steepest headwall with etremely low visibility, bone chilling wind, and tired climbers. The cloud cap began to chase us as we descended to the safety of the refugio, content with the experience.
As we hydrated, ate, and packed to leave, our team understood that climbing a mountain is not about reaching the summit, but rather the journey of enduring the challenges that such a mountain dishes out. Valuable experience that will parlay to our climb in a couple days on Cayambe.
Now we are enjoying the historic La Cienega,one of Ecuador's oldest colonial haciendas. Tomorrow we will head up North to yet another historic and beautiful hacienda, Guachala. A stop at one of Ecuador's bustling markets may be in order as well.
Talk to you all soon,
Dave and Crew

March 3, 2009 :
This is Dave checking in. The team is doing very well. We are at the Jose Ribas Refugio where we have finished dinner and are now packing and preparing for the summit tomorrow morning. We had some snow and rain today, but the skies are clearing now. We hope to check in from the summit tomorrow. Wish us luck!
Dave and Crew

March 2, 2009 :
Hola! We have completed two great acclimatization hikes and enjoyed a wonderful night at the hacienda Chilcabamba located at 11,000' at the base of Cotopaxi. We have now reached the Jose Ribas Refugio located at 16,000' on Cotopaxi. The weather looks good, the temperatures are warm and there is an amazing view of the summit from where we sit. Tomorrow we plan to take an acclimization hike a little further up the mountain and review some mountaineering techniques we will need for our summit attempt. Right now though we are going to get dinner ready and enjoy this beautiful evening on the mountain.
We will check in again tomorrow!
Dave and Crew

February 28, 2009 :
With a great breakfast digesting away, we loaded up the 4x4 and headed southeast to the Pasachoa Ecological Reserve. The main attraction here is Cerro Pasachoa, an inactive volcano reaching nearly 14,000', yet dwarfed by the other volcanoes in the area, like Cotopaxi. The first couple of hours had our group hiking up muddy trails through dense forest. It is amazing to be hiking in such lush vegetation at 10,000' unlike anything you would find at that elevation in the U.S. A highlight of this portion came when Jaime (our local friend and climbing guide) pointed out the only palm tree that exists at this high elevation in the entire country. Eventually we found our way out of the forest and continued up the high, grassy hills or paramos, taking in the beautiful quilted valley below as we made our way higher.
The ominous clouds hovering around the summit and eastern side of the mountain were kept at bay and allowed us to soak in the rays and enjoy the warmer, more comfortable temperatures. After about 4 hours since leaving the jeep, we reached a small knoll that provided a great rest and vista of Pasachoa and the surrounding landscape. Our team piled in for the drive back to Quito thankful for the timing of our first acclimatizing hike as the rain began to fall.
Tonight we'll head out to a great restaraunt, La Terraza, that sits on top of one of Quito's taller buildings providing great views of the capital. Tomorrow we head off to the Illinizas for our second acclimatizing hike before spending a night at a great hacienda. On Monday our team plans to head to the refugio or climber's hut on Cotopaxi.
Talk to you all soon!
Dave and Crew

February 27, 2009 :
Our team, minus Keith (he is on his way tonight), met up with our local tour guide Jorge this morning for a cultural and historical tour of Quito. The capital city of the country with the third largest oil reserves in South America has an impressive history spanning thousands of years, 22 ethnic groups, and 11 languages.
As we headed out we noticed many celebrations under way for the nation's Flag Day. Also, today marks the anniversary of the Battle of Tarqui, when Ecuador defeated Peru in 1829. School children, police, and citizens all displayed proudly the red, yellow and blue colors of their nation.
Our tour brought us first to the Basilica, which as a relatively new structure is still being built and modified to this day. Quito was originally known as convent city with an incredible concentration of churches and cathedrals. As we left the Presidential Palace, we digested the incredible images of some of the world's best photojournalists displayed at the World Press Photo Tour 2008. Subjects included candid moments from political strife in Africa, the wars in Afghanistan and Iraq, exploration of the Artic, and much more.
An interactive tour of the Inti Nan museum at the equator capped off our tour. Some were educated about the French mathematician, Coriolis, and his theories of the earth's rotation, position, and the forces involved. George stole the show with his abilities to balance an egg on a nail and received a certificate of proof; Doug marveled at the sun dial and the "real time" it provided us; Christian perfected his blow-dart accuracy; and Dal enjoyed the feats of strength demonstration.
Tonight we head out for a great traditional Ecuadorian meal. Tomorrow we head off to hike around Pasachoa, an inactive, eroding volcano just southeast of Quito that holds one of Ecuador's many ecological preserves.
Talk to you all soon!
Dave and Crew

February 26, 2009 :
Program begins.

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Dave Conlan, Ecuador Volcanoes Expedition Lead Guide, December 8 - 18, 2008

December 17, 2008 :
It has been an incredible 10 days of traveling, sightseeing, and climbing in Ecuador. Today our team topped off this tremendous adventure with a successful climb of Cayambe.

With snow falling for much of the evening, we were delighted to find visibility improving as we awoke from our slumber. Our team negotiated the initial rock ridge as we made our way up out of the clouds and onto the lower flanks of the glacier. An unusually cold wind tugged at our soft-shell jackets trying to chill our bones. As we approached 17,500' some of our team made the difficult, but important decision to put the team first and call it their high point. Climbing mountains is not about every individual reaching the summit, but enjoying the experience of the climb, the camaraderie of teammates, and the incredible food dished out by the guides!

Everyone enjoyed spectacular views of other volcanoes majestically protruding from the valley floor as the sun crept above the horizon. To the South we saw Antisana, Cotopaxi, the Illinizas, and even Chimborazo. To the North Cotocachi, Imbabura, and others. To the East the active volcano Reventador! Simply spectacular.

One would think the adventure would seize at the end of the climb, but not in Ecuador. Sometimes the roads pose the most trouble along the way and we experienced that first hand leaving Cayambe. Marco, our driver, deserves an award for safe driving and as we negotiated fresh mud, the tires became lodged in thick Ecuadorian mud! After a tow, some cheesy puffs, and cervesa, we continued on to Quito.

Our team is excited to return to family and friends and share their photos and memories... and plan their next climbing adventure with RMI!

Thanks to the climbers - Ray, Paul, Steve, James, Keith, and Clint.
Special thanks to Marco for driving and Sebastian for adding local climbing expertise! And thanks to Billy for bringing all the good weather!

Talk to you again soon,
Dave, Billy, and Crew

December 15, 2008 :
Hola de Ecuador! We are lounging here at the hut on Cayambe watching snow fall and cover the surrounding terrain...it seems that's been the case in some areas back home.

Today was a fun day with our morning spent taking in the sights, sounds, and smells of Otovalo. Then an adventurous ride brought us to the "infamous" road to the refugio on Cayambe. It was a welcomed change to walk the last bit - a condor flew overhead displaying it's strength gracefully.

We will be relaxing and preparing for the climb, as we continue to watch the snow fall. Here's to Max and Aiden, who are studying volcanoes at school - we hope you can climb one some day!

Talk to you again soon!
Dave, Billy, & crew

December 14, 2008 :
Summit! We had a spectacular climb this morning as five climbers and two guides stood on top - whether our climbers made the top or not, everyone climbed smart and strong! We left with increasing clear weather under a full moon, head lamps were an after thought. With new snow blanketing the route, climbing was a bit challenging in spots. We reached the summit in just under seven hours and then the unthinkable happened. Over the radio Billy hears a faint call for Dave and Billy . . . it turns out it was Casey and the RMI crew on the summit of Cayambe - sweetness!

After a quick descent, our team tired, hungry, and happy loaded in the van for the beautiful and historic La Cienega for much needed R&R! Tomorrow we head north for yet another amazing hacienda, Guachala.

Talk again soon - Dave, Billy, and crew.

December 13, 2008 :
After a killer breakfast of cereal and croissants, coffee, and fresh fruit, we headed out to the glacier for some training. We were fortunate to have nice weather, partly cloudy with a little bit of snow and wind, but nothing to break our spirits. Confident with our climbing techniques we headed back to the refugio just before more inclement weather engulfed the mountain. A restful (it's all relative at 16000 ft.) afternoon helped us get ready for the climb ahead. A burrito dinner filled our bellies with the calories for the climb and made us rest a little better prior to the climb. Hopefully we'll have some nice clear weather for the climb in the morning... that's all for now!

Talk to you soon, Dave, Billy, and crew!

December 12, 2008 :
We are at the Jose Ribas Refugio at 16,000 feet on Cotopaxi. We hiked about an hour up to the hut today in snow, hail and rain.  It is now foggy with very light precipitation. The route is in good shape and we look forward to some training tomorrow. Everyone's doing well. Pizza is on the menu for dinner and we are enjoying our time here chilling out and telling some stories. All for now. Enjoy your weekend!

December 11, 2008 :
Dave, Billy & team calling to check in this afternoon. We are settled in at the Hacienda El Porvenir. We had a great acclimatization hike on Illiniza Norte. We got up to about 15,200 ft. before rain, hail, and thunder chased us back down. We did make it down in good style, but as soon as we were back down, the heavens fully unleashed! Anyway, everyone had a great hike. We even had a chance to watch a condor off in the distance. That made the hike very memorable. Right now we are just relaxing, telling stories, and getting ready to enjoy a authentic Ecuadorian meal. Soon it will be off to bed so we can make an early start to the Jose Ribas Refugio hut.

December 10, 2008 :
This morning we awoke to screeching brakes and the incessant honking that makes up the a.m. rush in Quito. This place is a bustling hive of activity and our crew was eager to get out of town and check out the countryside. We headed in our van with Marcos, our driver, and Sebastian ,a local guide, up to the Pasachoa Reserve. The morning was especially clear and afforded us some un-obscured views of the three major volcanoes that surround Quito: Cayambe, Antisana, and Cotopaxi. When we reached the reserve at the end of a bumpy road we started uphill on a trail through some of the only remaining forest of its kind. The entire area was dense with bamboo and short trees covered with bromeliads. As we continued up and gained more elevation our group left the forest behind and emerged into higher alpine grasslands where we got some amazing views of the large tracts of farmland below and even some of the sprawl of Quito in the distance. Our jaunt out of the city was quiet and incredibly beautiful, and the crew seems to be salivating in anticipation of the climbing ahead. Tomorrow we plan on leaving Quito for the Illinizas. After another acclimatization hike to the saddle between Illiniza Sur and Illiniza Norte we'll head over to the Hacienda Porvenir for the evening. Everyone on the crew is doing great and the hike today seems to have whetted their appetite for more!

Hasta Luego!
Dave y Billy

December 9, 2008 :
With all six climbers and two guides (Dave and Billy) safe and sound in Quito, our group met up for a nice breakfast at the Hotel Mercure. We enjoyed fresh fruit, fresh baked breads, cereal, freshly squeezed juices, and of course great coffee! After fueling up, we hopped in our private shuttle for our tour of Quito. The tour, led by local tour guide Jorge, was very informative as we witnessed the historic parts of Quito and learned about the rich history of this country.

First stop was the Basillica, which is still being constructed - it seems as though many of the cathedrals and churches have either taken many years to build or are still a work in progress. Then, a short drive down "The Street of Seven Crosses" brought us to more historical landmarks of Quito. By foot, we toured several more cathedrals and the presidential palace. Most notably, the Iglesia de Compania is a church that took 160 years to build and is very ornate with gold leaf decor inside - nearly 520 kilos of gold was used! The next stop before leaving the historic section of the capitol, was Carondelet Palace, essentially the White House of Ecuador. After a brief walk through secured sections, we headed back to the shuttle for our trip just north to the equator.

Jorge brought us to the Inti-Nan museum, which highlights historical replicas of earlier civilization dwellings and cultural distinctions, along with the phenomenon of being on the equator. For example, we balanced eggs on nails, watched water drain straight down (instead of the vortex created by gravity, etc.), and battled feats of strength and balance. We are proud to say one of our team was able to balance the egg on the nail! So he gets to carry everyone's packs (shhh. he doesn't know yet).

Now we are back in town relaxing and taking care of last minute odds and ends. We plan on going on our first acclimatization hike tomorrow near Pasachoa, a smaller dormant volcano in between Quito and Cotopaxi.

That's all for now! Talk to you tomorrow.

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Casey Grom, Ecuador Volcanoes Expedition Lead Guide, December 5 - 15, 2008

December 14, 2008 :
Hello again everyone. Once again we have had another fantastic adventure here in Ecuador. 10 amazing days spent sightseeing, climbing mountains, and experiencing the wonderful culture of South America. Today was just another part of this journey and it went almost perfect. Four out of the six remaining climbers (two joined us for the Cotopaxi Only program) reached the summit on Cayambe.

The weather was perfect and the only other thing that could have made it better would have been some ski's. The team has safely returned to Quito and is doing some last minute shopping. We will finish off tonight with a dinner that thankfully won't be cooked by the guides. We have all had a great time and thank everyone back home for following and more importantly, supporting us.

Thanks again, we'll see you soon.
Casey and team

December 13, 2008 :
Hola everyone,We made it! To the hut that is. The road to Cayambe is one of the toughest roads I have ever been on. It's the kind of road that automobile manufactures should test their SUV's on. Today there was some major work being done on the road which provided for some interesting route finding and a 2 hour delay. It is Ecuador after all! So a few bumps in the road are expected.

During this delay someone stepped in some type of animal poo and tracked it into the van. I won't mention anyone's name (Monica), but this led to a rather odiferous ride to the hut. The team is currently relaxing in the refugio on Cayambe and we are anxiously awaiting tomorrow's climb.

Tonight we will retire to bed early, after dinner (alfredo pasta) of course. Our plan will be to start climbing around midnight and if all goes according to plan we will reach the summit about the same time as we did on Cotopaxi.

We will update you tomorrow after we return to Quito.
Ciao for now.
Casey and team

December 12, 2008 :
Those who woke early today could clearly see the summit of Cotopaxi, this time from the comfort of Hacienda La Cienega instead of underneath our boots. We enjoyed the best cup of coffee of the trip before leaving the gardens of the hacienda and heading to Quito to say goodbye to two of our crew. Michael and Brad, great climbing with you! The rest of us continued on to the colorful market at Otovalo where we explored a labyrinth of locally made crafts and possibly did a little holiday shopping.

After the market we drove to Hacienda Guachala, the oldest hacienda in Ecuador, built in 1585 and former haunt of explorers, presidents and scientists. We fit right in, and relaxed until dinner, even getting in a few rounds of pool and ping pong to keep our summit muscles limber. Quite an experience to be climbing snowy Cotopaxi one day, and immersed in Ecuador's colorful history and culture the next.

Buenas noches from the team down here, wish us luck as we head towards the hut on Cayambe tomorrow.

December 11, 2008 :
Buenos Tardes Amigos (Good evening everyone),
We have safely returned from our climb and are sitting comfortably in the beautiful Hosteria La Cienega.

I woke up early this morning and poked my head out of the door of the refugio to check the weather. To my surprise the night was clear and calm with a one of the brightest moons I have ever seen. It was so illuminating that we could have easily climbed without our headlamps. Maybe it has something to do with the equatorial bulge, but you should come and see for yourself.

Today's tally ? Well! We had 5 climbers reach the summit, two others set new altitude records for themselves (18'300) and one climber was under the weather but chose to give it their best and reached just over 17'000ft. Nonetheless it was a great day for everyone.
I won't give any names, but I made it!

The team is ecstatic to have hot showers and beds for themselves tonight. We are headed to dinner, so that's all for now.
Hasta Luego (See you later),
Casey and the sunshine crew

December 10, 2008 :
Good Day Everyone, the team is going great here at the refugio on Cotopaxi and most of us slept well last night, despite the howling wind. The wind has now died down and turned into a beautiful day and the views are spectacular from nearly 16,000 feet. We have just returned from a short training session where we reviewed some basic climbing techniques for tomorrow's ascent. Everyone seems psyched for tomorrow's climb and just a little nervous too.

I hope I don't jinks the climb, but things are looking pretty good for tomorrow. Our plan is to wake up around midnight, have a quick breakfast, a few hot drinks and start our climb by 1 a.m. If all goes well we should reach the summit in 6 to 7 hours and return to the refugio somewhere around 9 or 10 a.m.

We will update you tomorrow after we descend and reach our next hacienda. Stay tuned till then and keep your fingers crossed for us.
Casey and comrades.

December 9, 2008 :
Hola Amigos, today we left the hacienda behind and headed up hill for the comforts of the Refugio on Cotopaxi. This refugio sits at nearly 16,000ft. It bares a slight resemblance to RMI'S hut at Camp Muir, only this hut would be the bigger brother. Picture a rustic cabin with a working fireplace that could sleep 50 people. Nice, but tends to be a little loud and odiferous at times.

Our drive from the hacienda took about 1 hour and provided some spectacular views of Cotopaxi. The ride ended about 45 minutes short of the hut and once again the weather brought some wind and snow to accompany us for this short hike. This has been the standard for me the last few years and I see it as a good omen. The team is currently relaxing in the refugio, telling bad jokes and sipping hot drinks awaiting dinner.

We'll check in again tomorrow.
Casey and crew

December 8, 2008 :
Hello again, what a fantastic day we had! We left Quito early this morning headed south again, this time destine for the Illinizas. The Illinizas are two nearly identical mountains that rise up to over 17'000 feet. Our goal was to continue our acclimatization program by hiking up to the saddle that lies between them. In this saddle there is a refugio (hut) that sits respectably at 15'500 feet. It was here that we ended our acclimatization hike. It took us only about 3 hours to reach this point. The weather was perfect for hiking today, partly cloudy with just a slight breeze. It's always a good day when we can hike comfortably all day without sweating and having to change layers every 5 minutes.

The entire team did great and everyone enjoyed the hike and were amazed by the beautiful views that we were treated to. After our hike we jumped back into our van and drove to the tranquil hacienda El Porvenir. See for yourself.  It's a beautiful old, but still working farmhouse that sits not far from the base of Cotopaxi. The staff treated us to a fantastic meal of baked chicken with mashed potatoes and salad.

Off to bed for now!
Casey and team

December 7, 2008 :
Hola to el Norte. Today we upped our acclimatization training for a pleasant hike on the extinct Pasachoa volcano. While the lush canopy kept us dry from a few afternoon sprinkles, the slick trail proved to be the hazard of the day (think "Romancing the Stone"). Our muddy trail took us out of the jungle and the clouds obliged and scattered and as we gained the grassy ridge that took us to our highpoint at 12,500 ft, where we were treated to stellar views of Southern Quito. Our voyage back to our hotel took us through quite a wet afternoon thunderstorm, but we were warm and dry in the shuttle.

Back in Quito we picked up a few last minute items for our Cotopaxi climb and packed to leave the city tomorrow for the Illinizas. As everyone knows, working hard requires fuel, and we loaded up tonight with a great dinner in downtown Quito before turning in. Sleep should come easy tonight with a good day's work and a full belly, not to mention a few thousand less parade-goers outside our window (the Festival de Quito ended yesterday with a spectacular display of dancers, musicians, and stilt enthusiasts, right past the hotel, quite a sight!).

Buenas noches from the team down in Ecuador, hope everyone back home is doing great.

December 6, 2008 :
Hello Everyone, the entire group arrived last night without a hitch. Always a good start!

After getting the team checked into our hotel we called it a night, since it was nearly midnight. Normally we would have made it in earlier but there is a huge celebration going on for the Founding Day of Quito (which is tomorrow). It's sort of like our Fourth of July and needless to say the traffic slowed our arrival.

Today the team had an early breakfast and sampled some wonderful fresh juices. We then had our team orientation to the program and did some introductions to get better acquainted. There are 8 climbers in the the group and will be 4 guides for this trip. Two western guides (myself and Jake Beren) plus two guides from Peru (Peter and Rubin).

After our meeting we headed out on a city tour which took us through the old part of Quito. It has a heavy colonial influence and reminds me of old Seville. On our tour we visited the many churches that Quito has and some that even date back to the 16th century. After a quick bus ride up north we arrived at the equator, where Ecuador derives it's name. It was here that the group saw for themselves that the equator is truly the divider of the Northern and Southern hemispheres. We did a simple water test to see for ourselves that water does spin in different directions just a few feet away from the equator. It was impressive!

We ended the night with nice steak dinner and glass of Malbec.
Stay tuned!
Casey and crew.

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Casey Grom, Ecuador Volcanoes Expedition Lead Guide, November 21 - 29, 2008

December 1, 2008 :
Hello again everyone, well things started out looking like they were going be perfect. However, things did not go as planned. We had a very bumpy ride up to the hut on Cayambe. So much so that Paul who is from Kentucky and is experienced with driving on similar roads said "this road is indescribable".

We did make it to the high camp with plenty of time to spare. The day brought relatively good weather and we went to bed early with high hopes. The team woke up around midnight and left at 1:00 a.m. We hiked up hill towards the glacier for about an hour before I realized that there was some static electricity in the air. Knowing well that this sometimes means there is a chance of lightning, I informed the group to keep a sharp eye on the surrounding skyline. It wasn't long before a huge burst of lightning (closer than we wanted) turned us around and we headed back to the comforts of the hut. We spent the next few hours checking the weather to see if it would break but had no such luck.

We got a few hours of sleep and then headed back to Quito for some shopping and have just finished up a wonderful steak dinner. The team is safe and are all leaving (except me) to head home in the morning.

Thanks for following and we will have those pictures online soon.
Thanks again,
Casey and crew

November 29, 2008 :
Hello everybody. This is Casey checking in the Ecuador expedition. Wanted to let you know that the team is doing great. Today we got up early and drove up to the hut or the Refugio on Cayambe. The route up here is via one of the most rugged roads that I've ever been on. I think our driver was a little concerned about the well being of his vehicle after our adventure getting up here. Everything went well. The team is doing great.

Currently we are watching the sunset on Cayambe. The cloud level is high. It is spectacular. It looks like a painting from heaven or something like that. Our plan is to get to bed here pretty soon. We are going to get up at midnight again and head up hill. We're going to throw out our hammers and start hitting ourselves in the head again. If all goes well we should hit the summit in 6 or 7 hours just like on Cotopaxi. And be back here hopefully 9 or 10 in the morning. Then we will pack up and be back to Quito tomorrow. Hope everyone back home is doing great and we'll talk to you guys soon. Bye-bye.

November 28, 2008 :
Attention Christmas Shoppers! The team had a wonderful night of much needed sleep. Today we drove several hours to the north and crossed the equator and re-entered the northern hemisphere. Our destination was the famous Hacienda Guachala, built in 1580. Along the way we stopped in Otovalo. It is a small town that has become one of the largest markets in all of South America. Picture the largest outdoor flea market that you have ever seen with a Latin theme. We spent several hours here doing some Christmas shopping (looks like someone was nice this year) and practicing our bargaining skills. We arrived just in time for dinner and then found out (luckily) that the road that leads to Cayambe (our next climb) will be closed tomorrow. We got word that we will be able to pass this closer only very early in the morning. So we have been busy packing and getting ready for our next departure.

That is all for now, stay tuned in for tomorrow's adventure.
Casey and crew

November 27, 2008:
Happy Thanksgiving Everyone, well are you waiting to hear what happened on our summit climb? Or are you sitting on the couch in some tryptophan induced coma impersonating Homer Simpson (ummm Turkey). While you feast on a smorgasbord of delicious food made with love. We will be dining on Instant Oatmeal (Maple and Brown Sugar of-course!) for breakfast and will indulge in some trail-mix, assorted candy bars and Gu's (liquid food) for lunch. Most likely we will be too tired to even think about dinner tonight. Just kidding!

We did have oatmeal at 12:30am and we did eat a few candy bars, but not for lunch. We have all safely returned from the mountain and are currently hold up in one of the most amazing places in all of Ecuador. It's called La Cienega, and you should see for yourself to find out if we are enjoying ourselves Hosteria La Cienega. It's just one of the many fantastic places where we stay during this RMI program. The group had an wonderful lunch and most of the team members are currently taking siesta's (naps). Ok, are you ready for the play by play? Well here it is! We woke up around midnight and had a quick breakfast and most importantly, COFFEE! We started walking around 1am on a cool clear night. It took just over 6hrs to reach the Cumbre (summit). The route was in great shape despite the recent snowfall. However, someone really needs to introduce switch-backs (a series of ascending zig-zags) to the Ecuadorian climbing community. The route went straight up with barely a turn to it. Brutal! It was one of the clearest days that I have ever seen and there was hardly a breath of wind. We could see every mountain in all of Ecuador. It was Amazing! Photos are soon to come.

The tally goes like this: David and Jim reached the summit with me. Congrats to Jim who is 66 and did great! Paul set a new altitude record by reaching 17,500 feet. Dan and Doug got acquainted with international travel bugs at the Refugio.
That's all for now, I need some sleep.
Casey

November 26, 2008:
Hello again everyone, we are still here at the refugio on Cotopaxi despite wanting to escape to the warm beaches of Ecuador. The weather has continued to be unpredictable and we have had more snow, rain and sunshine. It changes nearly every hour. One minute we need Gore-Tex and the next a tee shirt. Today we did a little training and reviewed our plan, but mostly we just relaxed. I know it sounds tough, but someone has to do it. Our plan is to wake up sometime in the middle of the night and start our climb. The climb should take somewhere around 6 to 7 hours to reach the summit. If all goes according to plan (it always does) we should be safely back to camp around 9 or 10 a. m. Keep your fingers crossed for us...

PS- I once overheard an older mountain guide say that climbing mountains was like hitting yourself in the head with a hammer, it only feels good when you stop!
Casey and crew.

November 25, 2008:
Buenos Tardes (good evening), we have left the comforts of our hacienda for the slightly less comforts of the hut or Refugio on Cotopaxi. If you have stayed at RMI's hut at Camp Muir, then picture it on steroids with a working fireplace and two kitchens. If you haven't enjoyed a luxurious night there, then picture a rustic two story cabin that has bunk beds that can accommodate up to 70 people. With the current weather we are having (rain and snow) everyone is thankful to not be in tents, especially me.

It took us about 1.5 hrs to reach the highest point our van could safely go. It was here (15,000') that we donned on our boots and hiked about an hour to the refugio. It rained and snowed the entire way, which has been the normal for me the last few times.

The team is doing great and we are planning on just taking it easy the rest of today.
We hope that everyone back home is enjoying a great day at work. :P
Hasta Luego (see you later),
Casey and team

November 24, 2008:
Hola Amigos, today the team headed south out of Quito for another acclimatization hike. After a bumpy two hour van ride we finally reached our starting point at the base of two mountains. These twin mountains are called the Illinizas. Illiniza Norte (north) and Illiniza Sur (? Guess). They were once an enormous mountain a little over a thousand years ago. Then a major eruption split this volcano into two nearly identical peaks. We started our hike around the same elevation we left off from yesterday, just shy of 13,000 feet. No jungle and more importantly, NO MUD! We hiked up to the saddle that sits between them at around 15,500 feet. This was a new altitude record for some of the team members.

It was a partly cloudy day with somewhat limited views and it was hot and cold at nearly the same time. Everyone in the group did great and I think enjoyed the day. We have now retired to our humble abode Hacienda El Porvenir. It's a rustic, old and still working farmhouse that sits near the base of Cotopaxi. It's beautiful and even has a straw thatched roof. Check it out yourself Tierra del Volcan.

That's all for now, we'll check in again tomorrow.
Casey and team.

November 23, 2008 :
Hello again everyone, today we woke up early and headed south out of Quito to an extinct volcano called Pasachoa. It's a three-sided caldera (think horseshoe) where we started our acclimatization process by hiking up to almost 13,000'. The trail ascends through a dense forest that seems more like a jungle due to the humid air and thick vegetation. Of the 144 different hummingbirds that are found in Ecuador we saw ZERO! Most likely due to the fact that we were all breathing so loud because the trailhead starts at 9,500'. The trail was far muddier than I have ever seen it, or care to see it again. However, this provided for some good laughter as it looked like some of us were practicing dance moves and simultaneously making some really funny faces too. We all returned back to Quito safely; I'll bet a little dirtier than we started. We finished the night off with some of the largest pizzas any of us have ever seen.

Tomorrow we will leave Quito and head into the mountains for more acclimatization and then to a Hacienda near the base of Cotopaxi, our first climbing objective.
In the words of Arnold Schwarzenegger,
"Hasta la Vista"
Casey and crew

November 22, 2008 :
Hello everyone, this is Casey checking in from Quito (the capital) Ecuador. All team members have arrived and are doing great. After a good night's sleep, the team had breakfast and sampled some of the fantastic local fresh juices. After our breakfast we had our team orientation and discussed the program ahead of us. It wasn't long before our city tour guide Jorge showed up and rushed us off for some sight seeing and a quick stop at the Equator.

First on our tour was a visit to the older part of town, simply known as Old Town. We visited several old churches including the famous San Franciscan, which was built in the early 1500's. This part of the city has many colorful homes and buildings and the architecture still resembles a more colonial time.

Next on our adventure was a stop at the Equatorial line. It was here that we put to rest any disbelief that water spins in opposite directions in the different hemispheres. We even tested this on the Equator it self... and guess what happened? I could tell you, but you should really come see this with your own eyes.

The team returned to our hotel and did a little exploring of our own. We ended the night with a great steak dinner and enjoyed some local ice cream (not as good as Ben & Jerry's) but when is ice cream ever bad?

That's all for now, we will check in again tomorrow.
Casey and team.

November 21, 2008 :
Team arrives in Quito.

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Peter Whittaker, Cotopaxi Express Expedition Lead Guide, October 10 - 18, 2008

October 16, 2008 (email received 1:40 p.m. PT):
We're all off the mountain and resting at the Hacienda La Cienega. We had a very intense, but enjoyable climb. We left the hut at 2 AM in a light snow storm. After an hour of hiking we roped up at the edge of the main glacier. As we started up the route the weather cleared briefly. We made great time but as we approached 18,000 feet the wind picked up and it started snowing again. We pushed on to the final headwall that leads to the crater rim. At about 19,100 feet we stopped just below a huge, vertical ice wall. The wind was blowing the new snow directly onto our only available path to the summit and because of this wind-loading we decided that the risk of an avalanche was too great so we descended in a near white-out. We hiked out from the hut at 10:00 AM where we were picked up by our driver. He took us to the beautiful hacienda where we had a great lunch and a welcome shower. Everyone is doing great!

October 15, 2008 (2:21 p.m. PT):
Seth Waterfall called this afternoon with an update from the group. They are currently at the Jose Ribas hut at 16,000' acclimatizing and preparing for their summit bid. It was clear and sunny this morning, but it is snowing right now. They will be making their summit attempt tonight and are hoping for the snow to pass and the weather to clear for the ascent. Everyone is doing very well and all are in good spirits.

October 14, 2008 (3:30 p.m. PT):
Hi, this is Seth (Waterfall) calling from the Jose Ribas Refugio at 16,000 feet. We left the Hacienda El Porvenir this morning and hiked through weather alternating between snow and more snow. Our team of guides, Peter Whittaker, Dave Hahn, Chad Peele, Melissa Arnot and myself did some training and gear testing as we made our way up to our camp with the rest of our team. Everyone is doing great. We are getting ready for dinner and will check in again soon.

October 12, 2008 (email 5:14 a.m. PT):
Hola from Quito, Ecuador at 9,353 feet. The group arrived yesterday and began our acclimatization in the colonial city of Quito, which thankfully for us is at a pretty high altitude. Today we enjoyed a beautiful breakfast of fresh fruit and breads, really one of the nicest things in Quito! After rearranging our equipment, we packed small day packs and took advantage of the newest attraction in Quito, a cable car that takes you up to about 12,300 feet on a mountain called Pinchicha. It is amazing to gain a few thousand feet of elevation in only a few minutes, it sure makes 'mountain climbing' easy! Once at the top of the cable car, we were able to hike for another hour, wandering through dense fog and passing the occasional llama. As the afternoon continued, we could see the thunder-heads, with potential lightning, building below us, and we decided it would be a good time to retreat back to the hotel for a little relaxing, but not before spending another 30 minutes acclimatizing at the the top of the cable car, drinking some tea.

Today we are going to the Illinizas, and we will leave Quito behind for the quiet of the Ecuador countryside, as we approach Cotopaxi! Everyone is excited and feeling great, and cannot wait to see more of this beautiful country.