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Mt. Elbrus South Dispatches
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July 24 - August 5, 2009 Mt. Elbrus South Expedition
Lead Guide: Casey Grom
July 24, 2009
July 24th - Group departs the US for arrival in Moscow on July 25th.
July 24 - August 5, 2009 Mt. Elbrus South Expedition
Lead Guide: Casey Grom
July 27, 2009
Greetings Everyone,
Casey here checking in from Russia.
Everyone is doing really well despite the standard jet lag we are all feeling.
The last few days have been busy with sightseeing in Moscow while trying to chase down missing luggage. The group spent the better part of yesterday seeing the sights, which included the Famous Red Square, St. Basil's, and the Kremlin. Some of the team even had a quick visit to Lenin's tomb. After our day in the city we wrapped up the day with a very traditional meal of beef stroganoff. I won't mention any names (Kevin) but someone thought it would be ok to order Nachos! Needless to say they were not quite up to US standards. Sometimes we just have to learn the hard way.
We woke early today for our 3 hour flight to Mineralyne Vody which is in the southern plains of Russia that lead to the Caucasus Mountains. After the standard delays that everyone encounters while traveling here we were on our way. The drive took us about 4 hours and was through the beautiful country side that reminds one of the Midwest (think of rural Ohio). There were sunflower fields that streched out as far as the eye could see. After a few hours of driving and a few near misses with the wandering cows we finally arrived at the Baksan Valley which leads to the mighty Elbrus. We are currently in a small ski town called Asou.
Our plan is to catch up on some much needed sleep and spend tomorrow hiking and taking in the views.
Stay tuned! more to come soon.
Casey and crew.
July 24 - August 5, 2009 Mt. Elbrus South Expedition
Lead Guide: Casey Grom
July 28, 2009
Hello again everyone,
The team awoke this morning to the soothing sound of rainfall. After a quick breakfast of cream of wheat and fried eggs we headed out into the downpour to test our waterproof pants and jackets. We had hopes of going on a long hike to help start our acclimatization, but after a short walk and a few rides on ski lifts we were greeted with more rain that eventually turned to snow. Although our adventure was short lived, everyone enjoyed riding the lifts, seeing the new snow and we even managed to climb just over 10,000 ft.
After our brief and wet exploration we head back into town for a little last minute shopping, lunch and to make it back to our hotel just in time for a quick nap before dinner.
Dinner was nice and the team is adjusting to the fine Russian cuisine. Ever wonder why you don't see Russian restauntants in the States. Well, I assure you there is a reason. It almost seems as if there is an over abundance of Dill and the locals are attempting to erraticate it by ingesting it. For some reason they have volunteered us to help them with this.
Dill-icious!
That's all for now. The team is doing great and we are looking forward to moving further up the mountain tomorrow.
Casey and crew.
July 24 - August 5, 2009 Mt. Elbrus South Expedition
Lead Guide: Casey Grom
July 29, 2009
The Barrels - sleeping quarters
Greetings from Russia,
Today the team left the comforts of town and headed up hill to our new home for the next few days. We started our day with a ride in an enclosed ski lift, switched to a gondola, and then finished it off with a single chair lift. This unique transportation system delivered us to 12,000' where we will spend the next few days getting ready for our climb. Our new home is in a series of gaint barrels. They are quite nice, especially on days like today where there is a slight blizzard outside.
After our arrival we headed out into the inclement weather for another acclimatization hike. After a few hours of battling the wind and snow we headed back home, had dinner (dill free thankfully) and are currently cozy in our heated barrels.
The team is doing great and we will check in again tomorrow.
Casey and crew.
July 24 - August 5, 2009 Mt. Elbrus South Expedition
Lead Guide: Casey Grom
July 30, 2009
Hello friends,
We spent the day hiking to over 15,000' to continue our acclimatization before our summit bid. Our plan is to spend the rest of today and most of tomorrow resting in preparation for Saturday's climb. The weather has been less than ideal with snow falling the last few days. Although there have not been spectacular views the team is psyched about the improving climbing conditions. Normally the route is very icy which makes for tough going and slightly more dangerous conditions. However, all the new snow has made easier and safer climbing.
Everyone is doing well and we are looking forward to lounging around tomorrow.
Casey and crew.
July 24 - August 5, 2009 Mt. Elbrus South Expedition
Lead Guide: Casey Grom
July 31, 2009
Climbing on Mt. Elbrus
Hello friends,
Summit day is finally here!
The team is doing great and we are all well rested. It's been a beautifully clear day with fantastic views of Elbrus and the Caucasus range. Most of the day was spent telling tall tales, eating lots of Russian food (plenty of borsht) and watching scantly clad russians dance (really). We will be waking at 1 am for breakfast and start our climb shortly there after. If all goes well, we should reach the summit in 6 to 7 hours.
Wish us luck.
Casey and crew.
July 24 - August 5, 2009 Mt. Elbrus South Expedition
Lead Guide: Casey Grom
August 1, 2009 - SUMMIT DAY
Team approaching the summit
We made it!
Everyone has safely returned from our fantastic climb of Elbrus, the highest point in Europe. Our summit day started with falling snow and flashes of lightning in the distance that left the team feeling a little uneasy. Shortly after starting our ascent the snow stopped while the lightning provided some beautiful views as it slowly moved away and the skies cleared. We ended up having one of the most enjoyable days in the mountains I've had in a long time. It took us about 7 1/2 hours to reach the summit, which was sunny, warm and windless. All but two of our team were able to stand on top and we spent about 20 minutes taking photos, giving hugs, high-fives, and just taking in the breathtaking views. We made it back to camp after 13 hours on the go and most of the team is currently taking their well earned post-climb naps.
Thanks for wishing us luck,
Casey and crew.
July 24 - August 5, 2009 Mt. Elbrus South Expedition
Lead Guide: Casey Grom
August 3, 2009
Team on the Mt. Elbrus Summit!
After yesterday's adventure the team slept soundly, some a little too soundly, if you know what I mean (read snoring). We had a leisurely morning with breakfast at 9am and then finished packing up all of our gear and headed back down the combination of lifts to reach Azou once again. The thick air of 8,000 ft was warm and welcoming. There was a look of panic in everyone's eyes when I reminded the team that there were 12 of us who were hoping for hot showers and the water might be limited. Everyone quickly raced off, but there was plenty of hot water and everyone is looking and smelling much better.
We spent the next 2 hours stuffing our bellies with chicken kebabs and some tasty local beer. After lunch the team headed out on a gift shopping mission from which we have just returned.
There is a celebratory dinner on schedule for tonight that usually ends with a little sampling of the local vodka. I'm sure it will be a fun night as everyone is happy to be down and ready to head to St. Petersburg tomorrow.
That's all for now.
Casey and a cleaner crew.
July 24 - August 5, 2009 Mt. Elbrus South Expedition
Lead Guide: Casey Grom
August 4, 2009
The team is doing great in the beautiful city of St.Petersburg. We had an incredibly exhausting day of travel yesterday filled with car problems, delayed planes, baggage issues, but managed to make it to our new hotel safe, albeit a little tired. We finished the night off with one of the most impressive and delicious spreads of Indian food I have ever seen. A special thanks to Parth and his family for that. Thanks!
The day has been spent enjoying this beautiful city on foot and by boat. Most of the team split up to do a little exploring of their own. Some went to the famous Hermitage museum while others just enjoyed the elaborate architecture this city has to offer on foot. We will wrap up the day with an evening boat tour of the city and then head off to dinner.
Thanks for following.
Casey and crew
RMI Guide
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Casey Grom
Climbing Team
Li, Sam, Kevin, Zahava, Heather, Parth, Akbar, Ken, Candy, Rachel and Graham
Itinerary
Day 1: Depart U.S.A. Depending on flight times and connections, travel to Moscow typically takes almost 24 hours from the U.S.
Day 2: Arrive in Moscow (SVO). A group transfer is arranged from the airport to our hotel at 4:00 p.m. We can arrange a personal transfer for you if your flight arrives after 3:00 p.m. This will be at an additional cost, but is much less expensive than taking a taxi. Once we check in to our hotel, the afternoon is free to rest and explore the city. A team orientation meeting is held at 7:00 p.m. We spend the night in Moscow at the Park Inn Sadu.
Day 3: Today is spent exploring the city. We take a walking tour to visit Red Square, the Kremlin and Lenin's Tomb. The afternoon is free to explore the city. We spend the night at the Park Inn Sadu. (B)
Day 4: After breakfast, we drive to Moscow's domestic airport for our flight to Mineralnye Vody. A three hour drive brings us to the village of Cheget at the base of Mount Elbrus. Cheget sits in the Baksan Valley at 7,000 feet. Cheget, and is a small village full of skiers in the winter and a quiet center for climbers in the summer. We spend the night in a hotel in Cheget. (B, L, D)
Day 5: We awake for an early breakfast and to begin our acclimatization hike. Our trail begins at 7,000' on a gravel road then travels through forest and a high alpine environment before turning into a climbers trail. We continue through a rocky area which requires some scrambling and complete our hike at 11,500'. We have the option to descend back to Cheget via a single chairlift or return by our ascent trail. We have lunch at the hotel, and spend the afternoon organizing our gear for our climb. (B, L, D)
Day 6: A short drive from our hotel brings us to the start of our climb. We ride two gondolas up to the Mir Station, and then take a chairlift to Garabashi Hut (12,000'). Also referred to as "The Barrels", Garabashi Hut is where we stay while on the mountain. We take an acclimatization hike on the lower reaches of Mount Elbrus' glaciers and snowfields to approximately 13,000' (B, L, D)
Day 7: We spend the day reviewing basic mountaineering techniques such as ice axe arrest, crampon techniques and roped travel. An afternoon acclimatization hike finishes the training before returning to the Garabashi Hut for the night. (B, L, D)
Day 8: Today's focus is on acclimatization and rest. Final preparations are made for Summit Day, and we settle in early in anticipation of tomorrow's summit attempt.(B, L, D)
Day 9: Summit Day! We get an early alpine start for the summit. We begin our ascent with a Snowcat ride to Pastukhova Rocks (15,000'). From there, we climb the low angle snow slopes as we traverse towards the Saddle (17,700'). Mount Elbrus has two large summit domes and the Saddle separates the East Summit from the West Summit. Both are comparable in size and height, but the West Summit is slightly higher, and our objective. Our route gets a little steeper as we gain the upper summit plateau, and then we follow the ridge to the Summit. After enjoying the summit and its impressive views of the Caucasus mountain range, we descend back to the Hut. Depending on our schedule, the time of day, and the weather we have the option of taking the tram back down into the valley or spending one more night on the mountain. Climbing time: 8 to 10 hours. (B, L, D)
Day 10: This extra day is scheduled into the itinerary in case we encounter bad weather or need additional time for acclimatization. Having this extra day has proven to dramatically improve the team's success. If we do not use this day for our summit attempt, we can spend the day in Cheget relaxing, horseback riding, fishing and/or visiting the local market. Overnight in Cheget. (B, L, D)
Day 11: We have an early transfer from our hotel to Mineralnye Vody for our flight to St. Petersburg. A transfer from the airport brings us to the city and our hotel. There are no plans for this afternoon, except relaxing and enjoying one of Russia's most beautiful cities. Overnight at Hotel Arcadia. (B)
Day 12: We take a half-day tour of the stunning city of St. Petersburg. Attractions include a visit to the State Hermitage, the Church of the Savior of Spilled Blood, St. Issac's Cathedral, and walking along the banks the city's many canals. The afternoon is free to check out any of the numerous churches, palaces, museums, or parks that make up this wonderful city. We finish the day with an evening boat cruise on the canal, and spend our final night in Russia at the Hotel Arcadia. (B)
Day 13: Return flights from St. Petersburg to the U.S. (B)
Key: B, L, D = Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner included.