May 18, 2010 Mount McKinley Expedition
Lead Guide: Brent Okita

May 18, 2010

Team arrives in Anchorage and drives to Talkeetna.

May 18, 2010 Mount McKinley Expedition
Lead Guide: Brent Okita

May 20, 2010

Update 5/20/2010 at 11:00 a.m. - The Team is Flying On!

We pulled into Talkeetna on Tuesday. Half the team was delayed in Minneapolis and arrived in Anchorage at 6 p.m. On Wednesday we had a wonderful day of marathon packing and equipment check. Yesterday's weather started out blue skies and sunshine but ended with rain.

It's overcast right now but we are hopeful that we will be on the mountain this morning. We wait as we enjoy our breakfast this morning. Our flight consists of six team members on each of two twin otter planes.

The next dispatch should be sent from Mt. McKinley!

May 18, 2010 Mount McKinley Expedition
Lead Guide: Brent Okita

May 21, 2010

We flew from Talkeetna yesterday afternoon after the ground fog lifted at Basecamp. We had absolutely perfect conditions and by 3:30 p.m. we started climbing to 7,800' and made camp. We had dinner around 10 p.m. last night and headed to our tents.

We awoke this morning to another gorgeous day and the team is raring to go. We will head up Ski Hill without a cloud in the sky and no wind. The route is in great shape and everyone is doing really well.

We will check in again soon.

May 18, 2010 Mount McKinley Expedition
Lead Guide: Brent Okita

May 22, 2010

This is Brent checking in from camp at 9,500' on Kahiltna glacier. The weather is incredible! There is a light wind, maybe 5 - 10 mph, and unlimited visibility. We're breaking camp this morning, packing up and moving to 11,000'. Our route today is low-angle glacier travel toward Kahiltna Pass, then veers eastward and steepens slightly before reaching the campsite below 'Motorcycle Hill'. Tomorrow we plan to make a 'back carry' to pick up food and gear cached at 9,500'. Everyone in the party is doing great and spirits are high. Climber Will wants to send a shout out to his grandma, Pat. We're all getting spoiled by the nice weather, but we'll gladly take it!

We'll check back in later.

May 18, 2010 Mount McKinley Expedition
Lead Guide: Brent Okita

May 23, 2010

Brent & Team are at 11,000ft with some great weather.

They moved from 9500ft camp yesterday, had a nice climb with great weather, they were able to leave a cache a 9500ft and moved to 11,000ft with lighter packs than they have had in some time. They spent today reviewing some training and then ran back down to 9500ft to pick up their cache. Tomorrow the plan is to make a carry to 13,500ft. Everyone is well and feeling good and ready for the first steep climbing of the trip.

May 18, 2010 Mount McKinley Expedition
Lead Guide: Brent Okita

May 24, 2010 - voicemail 6:30 p.m. PDT

Hello, this Brent giving you a dispatch from 11,200' camp. We are sitting here at about 5:30 on a beautiful, beautiful day. We just made a carry to 13,500'. We got an early start of things. We had really nice weather, a little chilly in the morning with a light breeze around windy corner. The day was about as good as it could be.

Everyone did really well on the climb to 13,500' and back down. Folks are chillin' now, doing some camp chores and getting ready for dinner. Our plan for tomorrow is going up! We are planning to move to 14,200' camp. Everyone is excited for this big day. Today was a great shake down for us and the real climbing begins now.

We will give a call tomorrow when we get into the 14,200' camp.

May 18, 2010 Mount McKinley Expedition
Lead Guide: Brent Okita

May 26, 2010 - 11:03 a.m. PDT

Brent checked in from 14,000' on Mount McKinley. The team made the move to 14,000' camp yesterday in spectacular conditions. The weather was warm without a breath of wind and everyone climbed really well. Everyone slept well last night which is a good sign that they are all adjusting to the new altitude. Often times, the first night at 14,000' can be difficult for some climbers.

The plan for the day is to take a short walk, about 1 1/2 hours, down to 13,500' to pick up their cache. Once back at camp they will take some time for training and to build some walls around their camp. Tomorrow they are planning to make a carry to 16,400' - 16,600' and leave their cache. Then they will get a rest day.

May 18, 2010 Mount McKinley Expedition
Lead Guide: Brent Okita

May 27, 2010 - voicemail 11:30 p.m. PDT

Hi, this is Brent and team calling from 14,500', it's 10:25 p.m. Alaska time. Today started as a beautiful, beautiful day, windless and blue sky. We carried to 16,600' and everyone did really well. Some folks were feeling so well that we took part of the team up to 17,200' camp to place another cache. Members of the RMI Team led by Billy Nugent were at camp and we talked with them. Billy and other members of the team were making their summit attempt and were well on their way.

The weather came in on our descent, clouds built up this afternoon with some snow showers but we navigated well. We will be taking a well deserved rest day tomorrow. We will check in tomorrow night with an update on our plans. That's all for now.

May 18, 2010 Mount McKinley Expedition
Lead Guide: Brent Okita

May 29, 2010 - 3:00 p.m. (AKDT)

Brent here, checking in from 14,000' on Mt. McKinley. Everyone is doing well and the weather forecast is good. We broke camp this morning entertaining thoughts of high camp, but decided to put our plan 'on hold' when clouds rolled in. Upon further consideration we decided another day of acclimatization at this elevation was in order, so here we are. The physical benefits of adjusting to 14,000' are considerable, and will only serve to aid our move to high camp, 17,000', planned for tomorrow. The weather has cleared off and we're enjoying the camaraderie of various international teams sharing this site. I'll be back in touch, hopefully next time from high camp.

May 18, 2010 Mount McKinley Expedition
Lead Guide: Brent Okita

May 30, 2010 - voicemail 11:30 p.m. (AKDT)

This is Brent, Walter, Carrie and team. We are up here at 17,200' on Sunday evening after a nice 8-hour stroll from 14,200' camp today. The weather was in-and-out snow and sun. Everyone did well but ready for some relaxation at camp. Feeling great after we have had dinner and are off to bed.

Tomorrow we'll see what the weather brings. If an absolutely bluebird day, we may go for a summit; but otherwise, we'll plan for a rest day.

That's all the news from 17,200'. Bye for now.

May 18, 2010 Mount McKinley Expedition
Lead Guide: Brent Okita

June 1, 2010 - voicemail 2:18 a.m. (PDT)

SUMMIT!

Hey guys, it's Brent and I am calling very early Tuesday morning, it's 1 am here. Our first summit bid was successful and we summited about 8:20 p.m. here this evening (5/31/10). We had a late start, when the weather turned better we headed out with the five folks who didn't feel they needed a rest day. Everyone summited! A little bit windy conditions, cold conditions when we headed out but it settled out to real nice, almost calm conditions on top.

We do have good weather predicted for tomorrow. It's beautiful right now. So, I guess in about 7 hours we'll be getting up. Walter will be staying with the group at 17,000' camp and Cary and I along with the other folks will be heading to the summit.

Wish us luck! Talk to you tomorrow.

May 18, 2010 Mount McKinley Expedition
Lead Guide: Brent Okita

June 2, 2010 - 9:15 a.m. (PDT)

Brent called from sunny Mt. McKinley this morning.

"We woke up to blue skies at 17,200'. The stoves are going and we have started breakfast. We'll start walking down to 11,000' soon."

June 2, 2010 - voicemail 1:39 a.m. (PDT)

SUMMIT, PART 2!

Hi guys, it's Brent, Walter and Carrie calling from 17,200' at about 12:30 a.m. (AKDT). We just summitted Mt. McKinley once again. Had a good trip with three more team members making the summit today including a gentleman from England. Our plan is to leave in the morning and head down to 11,000'. If the weather holds the next morning, we will then go to the airstrip. Everything else looks good.

That's the news from up here at 17,200'!

Talk to you later- bye.

May 18, 2010 Mount McKinley Expedition
Lead Guide: Brent Okita

June 3, 2010 - 12:37 a.m. (PDT)

Hi, this is Brent, Walter, Carrie and Team at 11,000' camp after our descent from 17,000' today on a fairly nice day. We are going to take a couple hours of rest here and get up around 2 a.m. to walk to Basecamp. We will keep this schedule because of the dangerous crevasses on the lower mountain and keep walking when the glaciers are frozen at night.

Everyone is doing well. We hope to be getting out tomorrow at some point although the weather forecast is predicting some snow tomorrow. We will give a call when we get to Basecamp.

May 18, 2010 Mount McKinley Expedition
Lead Guide: Brent Okita

June 3, 2010 - 6:55 p.m. (PDT)

Brent's team reached basecamp this afternoon and was able to fly off the mountain. The group is now in Talkeetna looking forward to a shower and celebration dinner.

Congratulations to the team for a safe and successful expedition on Denali!