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December 15 - 23, 2009 Mexico's Volcanoes Expedition
Lead Guide: Jake Beren
December 15, 2009
Expedition begins with flights into Mexico City.
December 15 - 23, 2009 Mexico's Volcanoes Expedition
Lead Guide: Jake Beren
December 16, 2009
With everyone in Mexico City, we met on the rooftop restaurant of the Majestic Hotel for our first breakfast together as a team. We discussed our strategies for acclimitization and getting up and down Ixta and Pico de Orizaba over coffee and desayuna.
To start our trip we left Mexico City for the high altitude Olympic training ground turned resort of La Malintzi. Here we hiked higher until we traded timber for a misty ridgetop at 13,000 feet on the volcano La Malinche, named after Cortez`s wife and translator. We relaxed/acclimatized before heading back to our cabin for pre-dinner showers. Tonight we will rest up for our trip to Amecameca and the hut at La Jolla to start our ascent of Ixta, kept warm by our hut`s fire. Buenas Noches from Mexico, hope all are warm up north.
December 15 - 23, 2009 Mexico's Volcanoes Expedition
Lead Guide: Jake Beren
December 17, 2009
Leaving La Malinche this morning our team had a great breakfast en route to Amecameca where we took a quick look around and picked up some fresh food to cook this evening. It's always good to fill up before heading off on a climb. We drove up to the Altzimoni hut at 12,000 feet to acclimatize and stage for the beginning of our climb of Ixta. Tonight we will rest up for a big day tomorrow as we push up to our high camp below the Ayoloco glacier. Everyone is feeling great and ready to start to climb our first big objective. Til tomorrow.
December 15 - 23, 2009 Mexico's Volcanoes Expedition
Lead Guide: Jake Beren
December 18, 2009
Today we left the Alzimoni hut, moving to our high camp on Ixta. The crew did very well and we made in good style to our new home at 14,700 feet. After refueling on hot drinks, soup and dinner we turned in to catch some zzzz`s before our alpine start tomorrow. Wish us luck and good weather, we'll check in manana. JAKE
December 15 - 23, 2009 Mexico's Volcanoes Expedition
Lead Guide: Jake Beren
December 19, 2009
Ixta Summit Day!
This morning (or night, depending on your point of view), the intrepid Team Blackberry/iPhone, awoke to darn near perfect climbing conditions and decided to give the old lady a shot. Our high camp had positioned us perfectly for a good shot at topping out on the first of our big volcanoes for this trip. We left under dark skies, high above the town lights of Amecameca and Chalco far below us. We walked steadily through the rocky glacial debris at the base of the Ayoloco Glacier, skirting the previous night's accumulated hail and gaining the ridge just before first light. Once on the ridge we bundled up because even though in Mexico it can still get cold in the wind at 17,000 feet. From the ridge we handled our new challenge of cold temps until gaining the true summit of Ixtaccihuatl as the sun broke over the horizon, illuminating our next adventure, Pico de Orizaba. After a few photos and some summit celebrations, we steeled ourselves for the descent back to our high camp and the homemade soup of Rogelio's (our trusted driver) wife, waiting for us at the trailhead. Easing our way back into wheeled transport, we stuck to the backroads, avoiding the weekend traffic and checking in to our hotel in the zona historica of the colonial city of Puebla. Tonight we will feast and enjoy a good night's sleep at relatively low elevations, using tomorrow to explore the city and recuperate for Pico de Orizaba, the highest mountain in Mexico.
December 15 - 23, 2009 Mexico's Volcanoes Expedition
Lead Guide: Jake Beren
December 20, 2009
Leaving Puebla after a good breakfast we drove though fields of cactus and learned about the different ways you can eat them from our driver Rogelio. Once in Tlachichuca, we sorted gear and piled into an old Dodge Power truck and drove to the high hut on Orizaba. Fortunately it had snowed recently and the roads were not very dusty and we made it up to the hut with great views of our upcoming climb. Once at the hut we ate and rested and listened to the cold wind on the hut as we waited for our early start. Wish us luck.
December 15 - 23, 2009 Mexico's Volcanoes Expedition
Lead Guide: Jake Beren
December 21, 2009
Today our crew took a "rest day," exploring Puebla's Sunday Markets and antiques shops. We didn't do too much up and downhill walking, but no doubt still covered a lot of this colorful colonial market. It was a great day to recuperate after Ixta and restage for Pico de Orizaba. Eating well is an important part of recovery and we also explored the great food and famous Mole sauce that hails from this town. Tomorrow we'll head out to Tlachichuca and get ready for the big one.
December 15 - 23, 2009 Mexico's Volcanoes Expedition
Lead Guide: Jake Beren
December 22, 2009
SUMMIT DAY PICO DE ORIZABA!
Climbing up through the rocks and gullies that make up the base of our route, the team did very well getting to the upper glacier on Orizba. As the sun started to rise we climbed up the glacier, treated to cold and very clear views in all directions. We had a great mountain shadow of Orizaba over Tlachichuca and higher up were able to see La Malinche, Ixta and the smoke of Popocapetl. Great day to go climbing. Everyone did well and really pushed themselves, earning a spot on top of Mexico's highest mountain. Congrats team, time to celebrate in town.
Thanks Paul, Greg and John for a great trip!
RMI Guide
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Jake Beren
Climbing Team
John, Greg, and Paul
Itinerary
Day 1: Upon your arrival in Mexico City (MEX) (7,300'), a taxi ride takes you to our hotel. Our hotel is near the heart of the city in the lively Zócalo (Constitution Square) with its many museums, shops, outdoor cafes, pubs and restaurants. We have an evening orientation meeting at 7:00 p.m. in the hotel lobby.
Day 2: We meet for breakfast at 7:30 a.m. and plan to leave the hotel at 8:00 a.m. Then we drive in private vehicles to the cabins at the La Malintzi Resort, located at 10,000' at the base of La Malinche (14,636'). This facility was initially used by Mexico's Olympic Team for training and provides an important role in our team's acclimatization. We take an acclimatization hike on La Malinche and return to the cabanas for overnight. (B, D)
Day 3: At 8:00 a.m. we depart La Malinche and travel towards Ixtaccihuatl. We have some time to visit a local market in Amecameca and purchase any last minute items for our climb of Ixtaccihuatl. We then drive to the Altzimoni hut (12,000') where we take a short acclimatization hike and overnight in the Altzimoni hut. (B, D)
Day 4: We leave the Altzimoni hut and hike to the toe of the Ayoloco Glacier at 14,750' where we establish our High Camp. We spend time today reviewing ice axe arrest, cramponing and rope travel practices. We set up camp and make preparations for our early alpine start. (B, D)
Day 5: Summit Day on Ixtaccihuatl (17,340')! Shortly after leaving camp, and depending on the snow and ice conditions, we put on crampons and rope up for the ascent. We gain the summit ridge shortly after sunrise and continue to the summit of Ixtaccihuatl at 17,340'. After enjoying the views and a photo session, we descend to High Camp, pack up, and return to La Jolla. We transfer to the colonial city of Puebla and check into our hotel. (B)
Day 6: Our hotel in Puebla is located one block away from the Zocalo (main square) in the heart of the downtown historical district of Puebla and has been on the city map since 1668. The day is free for you to relax and explore the city and the many historic sites.
Day 7: Today we drive to Tlachichuca located at the base of Pico de Orizaba. After lunch, four-wheel drive trucks take us to Piedra Grande, our High Camp on Orizaba at 14,000'. We spend the night in tents near the hut. (B, L, D)
Day 8: Summit Day on Pico de Orizaba (18,701')! With an early alpine start, we leave Piedra Grande and make our way up through a maze of rock and scree. We climb through this rocky "Labyrinth" before reaching the toe of the Jamapa Glacier. From here, the route heads directly up the glacier, bringing us higher and higher until we hit the crater. We traverse along its rim until we reach the summit. After our summit celebration, we begin our descent back to Piedra Grande. We pack up camp, load up the vehicles, and head back to Tlachichuca for a hot shower and a home cooked meal. We spend the night at Señor Reyes' in Tlachichuca. (B, D)
Day 9: After breakfast we depart Tlachichuca and return to Mexico City. It's about a three hour drive, and we should arrive at the airport around 12:00 p.m. Just to be on the safe side, we recommend booking your return flight for 3:00 p.m. or later. Our vehicle will continue back to the Best Western Majestic to drop off anyone who is extending their trip. (B)
Key: B, L, D = Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner included.