Mexico Dispatches

Billy Nugent, Orizaba Express Lead Guide, March 7 - 13, 2009

March 12, 2009: Summit!
Billy and his crew were 100% on the top of Orizaba today! We received the good news while they were traveling back to Senor Reyes' in Tlachichuca for a hot shower and home-cooked meal. Way to go team!

March 11, 2009:
Hey everybody!
Just writing a quick note before we start cooking dinner. The whole crew is in excellent spirits, not to mention in great physical shape, and we plan on making our summit attempt on Pico de Orizaba sometime late tonight or early tomorrow morning. We had a great training hike today to a spot well above 15,000 ft where we cached some of the technical gear we will need higher up on the glacier. The weather is starting to look a little iffy but if the patterns we've been seeing for the last week or so, we'll probably be waking up to clear skies: stars and a nearly full moon!
Well, that's it from your team high in central Mexico. Wish us luck and keep your fingers crossed for good weather!
Billy, Fernando, John, Ryan, Bob, Pam, and Robin.

March 10, 2009:
Hello All!
Hey everybody, Billy here checking in on behalf of the crew. We just arrived in Tlachichuca and are busy shaking down personal gear and checking all the group gear to make sure it`s all in good working order.
We finished off yesterday`s summit of La Malinche with an awesome meal at the La Malintzi compound. Which is a restaurant and a series of cabins used largely by the Mexican Olympic teams for high altitude training. Our climb itself was fantastic. A bit dusty but clear skies and comfortable temps made for a great ascent of the 14,000+ ft. volcano. We were actually accompanied by a pack of feral dogs all the way to the summit! Who`d have known dogs could be such good climbers! The summit greeted us with sweeping views of the farmland that surrounds, dotted by other ancient volcanoes. Well, we head off to Piedra Grande in about ten minutes from where we plan to summit El Pico de Orizaba! Of course, after another day of training and acclimatization. Wish us luck!
We`ll check in again tomorrow before we head up for the summit!
Ciao!
Billy and Crew.

March 9, 2009:
Hello. This is Billy checking in from Mexico. Our group arrived on Saturday in Mexico City with all their luggage, always a good start to a trip. There was a large festival being held in the Zocalo near our hotel. On Sunday we visited the pyramids at Teotihuacan along with the the President of Mexico. As you can imagine that created a lot of excitement and a lot of military activity. After visiting the pyramids we drove to La Malinche where we spent the night in cabanas at 10,000' to begin our acclimatization.
Today we are taking an acclimatization hike on La Malinche (14,640') and are about 40 minutes from the summit. It is a beautiful day with warm temperatures. After our hike we will return to the cabanas for another night at 10,000' before making our way to Orizaba tomorrow.
We will check in again soon.
Billy

March 7, 2009:
Program begins.

Dave Conlan, Mexico Volcanoes Lead Guide, January 10 - 18, 2009

January 17 & 18, 2009:
Humbleness is the key ingredient for climbing mountains. To embody the notion that you, the climber, are such a small part of the dynamic equation needed to safely climb an incredible peak is as challenging as the actual climbing. Our team was faced with such a challenge once we reached our high camp on El Pico de Orizaba. Weather was not cooperating with our plans to attempt the summit as wind, precipitation, and low visibility engulfed the mountain well into the morning. Many a time, emergency situations that arise in the mountains are rarely the product of just one issue, rather many tiny poor decisions that escalate to something worse. We discussed this over as a group and agreed that if we had left in poor visibility, precipitation, tough route finding, and difficult travel with the fresh snow we were not setting ourselves up for success and safety.
The weather slowly eased it's temper as the sun began to rise revealing a beautiful, snow-covered landscape reaching down to nearly 12,500'. This unusual winter storm has left a dry, dessert-like alpine environment encased in the cold grasp of winter. A cloud cap swarmed the upper reaches of the Jamapa Glacier as our team headed out for a hike in hopes of reaching the glacier. Watching the wind whip through the mountain up high, reminded us how unforgiving mountaineering can be. The snow became deeper and deeper as we approached the last section of the rocky labyrinth just below the glacier. At the foot of the glacier, around 16,500 ft our team was knee deep in snow, gazing at the summit in awe. From this point the summit was beckoning us to climb, what looked like only a stone's throw away. This is when one must face the reality in this case of what looks so close is easily 3 hours away and with deep snow, more like 4 hours. Too long, too exhausting, too dangerous at this point to go on. Our team, satisfied with the journey and experience of climbing in Mexico, returned to the Reyes' lodge for some relaxation prior to our departure home.
As we sat at our gates waiting for our respective flights, we all began to dream, to wonder of the next climb. For some us, a return trip is on the bill. For others, a future mountaineering expedition is right around the corner. For all, a peace knowing we came home safe, friends, and hungry for more. Thank you to Tom, Casey, Ryan, Jayson, Mazzie, Seamus, Collin, and Marty for making this an amazing climbing program for RMI!
See you on a mountain soon,
Dave, Walter, and Crew

January 16, 2009:
Hello from about 14,000' on Pico d e Orizaba! We are all well amidst a winter wonderland...the low pressure system that chilled us on Ixta is still with us. Currently there is about 6 inches of snow at our camp with poor visibility and intermittent snowfall.
The forecast is for improving weather, so our team is anticipating a fair weather climb, we shall see! For now, we are building our quiver of climbing skills with a great knot lesson. "a not neat knot need not be knotted!"
We give thanks for the great, safe, and determined driving of Victor and Ulysses...driving on 4x4 roads in a snow storm is hard enough, not to mention while shuttling climbers to 14,000'!
Another excellent gourmet meal is enjoyed as we wait for improving weather!
Talk to you again soon,
Dave, Walter, and crew

January 14, 2009 Summit Day!:
Dave called from high camp on Ixta at 8:30 a.m. PST. The group reached the summit today and all is well. They are now back at the hut on Ixta after a seven hour round trip climb. Later today they will pack up and descend to the trailhead. They will relax tonight in Puebla and enjoy a rest day tomorrow before heading to Orizaba. The party is very strong and everyone is doing well.

Dispatch received from Dave via email
The alarm on our watch began to beep, letting us know it was time to awake from a restless night's sleep. Out of our toasty sleeping bags and into the cold night high on Ixta we began preparation to climb. An unusual cold snap has embraced this part of Mexico and nipped at our bodies as we started to approach the Ayoloco Glacier. About an hour of hiking up loose scree and talus found our team at the tongue of what was once an impressive glacier careening down the side of the seventh highest peak in North America.
With crampons on our boots, ice axes in-hand, and ropes attaching our teams together we ascended and traversed the hard snow and ice. Our brief glacier climb brought us to the prominent ridge leading us to the summit of the "Sleeping Woman". Aztec legend says Ixtaccihuatl was an Aztec woman who died from a broken heart. Her love, Popo, was an Aztec warrior, allegedly killed in battle. With such devastating news, Ixta ended her life. When Popo returned, he too was broken hearted and created the mountain in her memory. Today, Ixta's profile from the West or East resembles that of a sleeping woman, Ixta, with her feet, knees, breast, and head defined by ridges and rocky peaks.
Our teamed climbed strong and efficiently, reaching the summit in just under 4 hours. We were graced with a brief clearing while on top as we endured the colder temperatures. We won't mention any names (cough, cough...Collin and Marty) but some went bareskin on top for a priceless photo opportunity!
The descent was again well climbed by our team and we reached our high camp in under 3 hours. We hung out at camp watching the clouds roll up and down the slope below us, next to us, and above us. We packed our packs to the brim for the hike down to our wonderful chauffeurs, Regolio and Guiermo. Awaiting us were incredible Mexican tortas, a typical sandwich with meat, cheese, tomatoes, onions, avocados, and mayo- delicious! Of course there was celebratory libations provided to wash down the tasty meal.
Overall, our team did extremely well climbing our first objective, Ixta. This climb can definitely pose challenges in that it is very high in altitude, soon after our arrival to Mexico, and we have to establish a higher camp. We are now resting surrounded by wonderful people, incredible cuisine, and amazing culture here in Puebla.

January 13, 2009:
Hi. It's Dave and crew calling in from High Camp on Ixta. It is partly cloudy and we are experiencing a bit of a cold snap here in Mexico, but we can see that it is clear toward the summit. We are hoping it will stay that way for our attempt tomorrow. The team is doing really well and we will be getting some food and then settling in for a 3:00 a.m. summit attempt. This has been a fun trip so far and we are excited, feeling good and ready for tomorrow.

January 11, 2009:
Hey everyone. Hope all is well...
A quiet Sunday morning graced Mexico City as our team headed out towards La Malinche.
As we furthered ourselves from the capitol's carbon footprint, we stopped at a great vista of both Popo and Ixta, our first climbing objective.
We reached the resort of Malintzi and headed out for our first acclimatizing hike. We walked through pine forests and then up a broad slope to a ridge. Here we enjoyed the views of the surrounding valley.
A wonderful Mexican dinner awaits our group now...Tomorrow we head to Ixta. Everyone is excited for our first climb!
Talk to you again soon, Dave, Walter, and crew

January 10, 2009:
Our climbing team has assembled under a full moon in Mexico City. Some bags are on the relaxed program and will eventually find their way to our possession. Our rooms are situated with grand views of the Zocalo in the Centro Historico of the capital city. Across the way, the Presidential palace. To the left, the Cathedral Metropolitan. In the middle, a 100ft faux Christmas tree and an ice skating rink the size of two hockey rinks. After a meeting in the hotel lobby, we headed down Ave 5 de Mayo, up Motolina, and further down Ave. Tacuba to the famed Cafe Tacuba. As we ate, traditional Mexican musicians serenaded us with folk songs on their string ensemble.
With full bellies we will hit the sack as we prepare to head out of this beautiful, historic, 25 million strong capital to La Malinche for a great acclimatization hike. We'll check in tomorrow!
Talk to you soon,
Dave, Walter, and Crew