Ecuador's Volcanoes Archived Dispatches

Casey Grom, Ecuador Expedition Lead Guide,
December 11 - 21, 2007

December 20, 2007 (phone call 8:49 a.m.):
Casey just called in an excited and positive sat phone dispatch concerning the team’s ascent of Cayambe. He said,”100% success, 0% visibility!” Congratulations to everyone on reaching the summit of Cayambe on a snowy day when there was nothing to see except the digital read-out on the GPS unit! The team has returned to the refugio and is headed to Quito this afternoon for a well-deserved celebration dinner!

Summit of Cayambe

December 17, 2007 (voice mail from 7:59 a.m.):
This is Casey just letting you know that we are back at the refugio after a 100% successful summit climb.  Everyone is doing well and we are packing up and will be descending from the mountain and traveling to La Cienega where we will spend the night.  We will call back later with more details of our climb.

Summit of Cotopaxi

The Equator

December 13, 2007 (received via email at 10:19 p.m.):
This is Casey checking in from the 2007 RMI Ecuador Expedition. All of the climbers have safely arrived in Quito and all is well. Yesterday we had a "active rest day" and spent the day touring the city while letting our bodies adjust to the new altitude of Quito (9,200 ft). The weather was perfect for a day sightseeing, it was mostly sunny and around 70 F. It was a nice change of seasons for the group, who are coming from the start of winter back home.

After our city tour we headed back to our hotel for a traditional "Siesta" to help our bodies with the jet lag and ended the night with a wonderful Ecuadorian meal.

Today we awoke early and headed out of town and up to the extinct volcano Pasachoa. It was our first acclimatization hike and we ascended up to around 13,000 ft. Again the weather was ideal, and we ascended through the forest up onto the highlands of Ecuador, where we were able to see a few of the many beautiful mountains we will attempt to climb. The group is doing very well and all are excited to head out of Quito for another day of hiking and spend the night at the amazing Hacienda El Porvenir which is located near the base of Cotopaxi. That's all for now, we will check in again soon.

Dave Conlan, Ecuador Expedition Lead Guide, November 30 - 10 December, 2007

• December 9, 2007 (received via email Dec. 10 at 11:49 a.m.):
  As I stare into my eyelids for sleep, a bright flash illuminates the refugio. I open my eyes and glance at my watch. 10:44 pm. One minute from wake-up time. I rise from my slumber and scurry down stairs and outside to be welcomed by a dense cloud, poor visibility, light rain, and of course lightning.

  Our plan was to be ready and climbing by midnight, similar to Cotopaxi, but Mother Nature had different plans for us. We crawled back into our sleeping bags, diligently checking the weather every half an hour. Finally, a break in the system occurs giving us enough time to scarf down some hot drinks, food, and dress in our climbing gear.

  Off we are, hiking through the first section of rock on our approach to the Glacier Hermosa. It takes us about 1.5 hours to reach the glacier and the lights of Cayambe glow to the west. Up high, clouds engulf the summit and forewarn the few climbing teams dispersed on her white slopes.

  The team of three clients and two guides are climbing well; acclimatizing, proper techniques, and efficient climbing is transcending into a great climb thus far. We break just below the Pico Jallin, a prominent rock outcropping used by climbers for navigation on the northwest side of the glacier. From here we traverse northeast and reach a glaciated ridge with long, narrow crevasses reminding you to be alert.

  Snow clings to our jackets and packs and blows in our faces as we climb higher on Cayambe. Visibility continues to decrease, causing most of the team to hope and pray for a break in the inclement weather....asap! As we climb towards the summit, the inability to see and navigate causes our team to stop. With everyone feeling strong and acknowledging the risks, we humbly decide to turn and climb back down to the refugio. As we descend to the refugio, the storm intensifies, snow becoming rain as we cross into the safety threshold of the refugio.

  This is what mountaineering is all about - being prepared to handle any situation dealt to you and having the ability to make sound judgments and decisions specific to the situation and team. Of course it would have been nice to stand on the summit, but in the words of one of our climbers [I am a better climber now than before I came down here![

  A fantastic trip overall!!!

  December 10: climbers fly home




• December 8, 2007 (received via email 7:08 a.m.):
  It is Saturday, at that only means one thing. . .the bustling market at Otavalo! Otavalo is one of the oldest markets in all of South America. An important trading and meeting ground for indigenous people of the highlands and lowlands in Ecuador for thousands of years, even still today!. As we left the beautiful and historic Hacienda Guachala (Ecuador´s oldest hacienda with several hundred years of history, including two Ecuadorian presidents within the Boniva family!) we stopped at a new and more accurate monument for the equator, created by Cristobal, son-in-law of the Boniva´s! We actually spent part of last evening with Cristobal, learning about his passion and mission to educate the public about the true meaning of the equator, why Ecuador is the true middle of the earth, the relationship between humans and the cosmos, and how pre-Inca and Inca people were virtually dead-on with their scientific achievements. As we entered Otavalo we swung by the local market where we stood amidst cattle, pigs, and farmers buying and selling their animals. It is hard to describe the odoriferous atmosphere and ambiance created by the high-pitched squeals of pigs refusing to follow their new owners. Once we are done here we drive close to the refugio and walk for a short while to the refugio, where Jaime (our local guide) will meet us with our climbing gear! We will hope for better weather, as now their is a significant system in the mountains, as we prepare to leave around midnight for our climb on Cayambe, the highest point on the equator.
   
• December 7, 2007 (received via email 5:16 a.m.):
  Our team was treated to the luxurious and historic Hosteria La Cienega, tucked away in the lush valley below Cotopaxi. The team is well rested after a night of great cuisine, multiple banana splits and ice cream treats! We head North today near the town of Cayambe to the Hacienda Guachala. This will be a restful day before we head out to climb Cayambe.
   
• December 5/6, 2007 (via email received 12/7/07):
  After a morning of training on the lower flanks of Cotopaxi´s glaciers, our group rested and prepared the climb ahead. With virtually perfect weather, it was easy to enjoy the views of Cayambe, Antisana, and smaller peaks like Pasachoa, Sinchilagua, Rhuminahui, and Cotacachi way off to the north!
  We woke around 11 pm on the 5th and gobbled down hot tea and coco, muffins, oatmeal, or whatever else seemed appetizing at that hour. Our team assembled outside the refugio and promptly left at midnight for the adventure ahead. As we crept higher on Cotopaxi we were awed by a lightning storm far off to the north east, over the rain forest. Each flash illuminated the sky and cast a daunting, yet beautiful silhouette of Antisana. It is times like these that connects you to such an experience; here we are up high, climbing a glacier and yet we are witnessing a thunderstorm over pristine rain forest!
  Engulfed in clear, cold weather and perfect climbing conditions, our team battled higher up the mountain humbled by the terrain surrounding us. We reach the top of the last head-wall before the summit. Clouds once over the rain forest threaten overhead, but dissipate out to the south west. We gather ourselves for the final push to the summit, and as we make the last few steps we are bestowed with magnificent views of the deep crater trimmed with pillowie snow. As we catch our breath, high five and hug, we notice virtually all the mountains in Ecuador; Cayambe and Antisana to the North, the Illiniza´s to the West, Chimborazo to the South! What a climb! We leave the summit knowing the climb is half over and are thankful as we pull off our crampons at the base of the glacier!  
   
• December 6, 2007 (3:48 p.m. PT):
  Hi this is Dave down in Ecuador. We made our summit attempt today of Cotopaxi. We had good weather, route conditions and views of the other mountain peaks. Our group reached the summit in just over 7 1/2 hours. While we were on the summit we saw a big plumb of ash spout from Tungaragua, a mountain to the south of Cotopaxi. We are now at La Cienega and everyone is resting. We will meet for a celebration dinner this evening. Two of our climbers that came to climb Cotopaxi will return to Quito tomorrow while the rest of the group travels towards Cayambe and prepares for our second ascent. We will check in again soon.
   
• December 3, 2007 (3:48 p.m. PT):
  Hi this is Dave checking in. We left Quito today to hike to Illiniza Norte. There was the most snow that I have seen in 6 years on top of Norte. It is a good sign for the mountain snow levels. On our hike today a condor flew over us at 10 feet! It was the most amazing wildlife sighting! It is a testament to how far Ecuadorian conservation has come. The weather cleared up today after some cloudy weather and the forecast is for improvement. We are at 5,200’ on a slope before the hut for the night having dinner. Everyone is in good spirits. Good night from Ecuador.



• December 2, 2007 (via email 2:14 p.m. PT):
  An early start had our team leave Quito and travel southeast to Pasachoa, an extinct volcano inactive since our last ice age. This wonderful hike through the paramos of the sub-alpine environment begins at about 11,000' and winds through the reserve to the rocky summit at 13,770'. We were ushered out of Quito in rain, but had a dry and eventually sunny day around this smaller peak in the Avenue of the Volcanoes. We still await a glimpse of Cotopaxi's symmetrical cone and icing-white glaciers.
  
  A strong group of climbers, we were able to hike to the summit and back in about 4.5 hours! The afternoon will be spent preparing for our departure for Cotopaxi and Cayambe, picking up souvenirs, and further sampling the tastes, sounds and smells of Quito.
  
  Tomorrow, Monday December 3, will see our group head to the Hacienda Porvenir. Along the way we will stop near the Illiniza mountains for our second acclimatization hike, bringing us to the Illiniza Refugio at around 15,300'. Who knows, we may venture further to take a peak at Illinza Sur's receding, yet challenging northern glacier - a fantastic climb for another time!
   
• December 1, 2007 (via email 2:09 p.m. PT):
  Everyone has arrived in high spirits . . . and with all their luggage! Our team met over a nice breakfast this morning before heading out for a city tour of historic Quito. With Jaime as our guide for the day we marveled at the ornate design in some of South America's oldest cathedrals and climbed the stairs up the towers of Quito's largest basilica. We finished off the day with a walk up to La Virgin monument. Our team was also treated to an open exhibition of Ecuador's finest photographer, Jorge Anhalzer. This was a great opportunity to witness a bird's-eye, panoramic view of Ecuador's largest mountains. We will meet tonight for a group dinner at a local steak restaurant not too far from the hotel. Tomorrow we head off for an acclimatization hike on Pasachoa, at about 13,770 ft, this extinct volcano will provide wonderful hiking and views of the surrounding valley and hills. That is all for now, talk to you soon!



• November 30, 2007:
  Group arrives in Quito, Ecuador.

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