Alex Van Steen's Guide Bio

Q: I climbed Mount Rainier this year and want to climb higher. How do I physically prepare?

A: You've already developed important foundational skills: ice axe, crampons, rope-work, pressure breathing, and foot work. You know you can put yourself through the grind for 14 to 16 hours. You've learned that it's just as tough going downhill as up. You've learned that teamwork really does matter. You know how important it is to thermo-regulate and to take care of your nutrition.

That's good stuff - so first, you want to stay fit. You might chose some intermediate goals: a fun run, a backpacking trip, something that allows you to continue to train and test yourself. You should also add diversity, do cross training and continually seek to challenge your body.

Q: What else should I do?

A: Get mentally prepared: learn about your goal, read books on your destination, read other climbers’ accounts, read about altitude and its effects. You should also become familiar with your gear and try it out.

Q: What peaks should I be looking at?

A: Peaks in Mexico and Ecuador, Mount Elbrus and Kilimanjaro; these are all excellent next steps.

Q: What is the biggest challenge with those peaks?

A: No doubt about it - performing at high altitude.

Q: What should I know about climbing at high altitude?

A: I’ve been above 15,000 feet 75 separate times now. I’ve found that altitude intimidates people, but we have a proven formula for success.  Number one is being fit, really fit. Second, being relaxed: we’ll get to high altitude quick enough and our ascent profile is set up really well. Third, trusting your professional guide. We’ll be guiding you with the goal of having you succeed.

I love helping people understand the details of performing at altitude, so feel free to give me a call.     

Q: What is your favorite peak or destination?

A: It’s a tie between Ecuador and Aconcagua.

Q: Why?

A: I love the mix of culture and climbing in those places. I like the distinct indigenous culture present and the beautiful farms dotting the landscape. There’s a lot of character there. Then there's the history of these countries; very intriguing. And the people are super-friendly. 

Q: How can I learn more?

A: You can call me at RMI or you can click to chat. I'm around Tuesday to Friday each week from 8 until 5.