Climb Details
Cost:
Deposit:
Length:
Difficulty:
Type:
$18500
$2500
44 day(s)
Mountaineering
Availability
Upcoming Climbs
| August 28, 2012 | |
|
Guide(s): |
|

The 26,906’ summit of Cho Oyu, meaning Turquoise Goddess in Tibetan, is the sixth highest point on earth. A Cho Oyu Expedition is regarded as one of the most accessible climbs of the world’s fourteen 8,000 meter peaks. Expedition highlights include:
- A complete journey across the Himalayas; from the Tibetan city of Lhasa to the glaciers of Cho Oyu and back to the narrow streets of Kathmandu over the course of one expedition.
- Join a small and personal climbing team built around a low climber to guide and climber to Sherpa ratio, providing the flexibility and strength for a safe and enjoyable expedition.
- Climb above 8,000 meters with the guidance and partnership of RMI’s experienced guides and Himalayan veterans.
- Benefit from RMI’s excellent organization, support, and carefully planned and outfitted expedition: all the small advantages that add up to a more memorable experience.
- Take part in a RMI adventure to the Himalayas and see why we continue to set the standard in guiding excellence.
Sitting on the northern Nepali border just 12 miles to the west of Mount Everest, Cho Oyu stands firmly in the heart of the Himalayas. Cho Oyu’s straightforward climbing and lofty elevations make it the ideal introduction to Himalayan and high altitude mountaineering and excellent preparation for an Everest Expedition down the road. Our Cho Oyu Expedition begins in Kathmandu before flying over the Himalayas to Lhasa and reaching the mountain by crossing the Tibetan Plateau, a true highlight to see the two great cities of the Himalayas on one expedition.
RMI's guiding approach on Cho Oyu differs notably from many other guide services as we intentionally keep our team small. Instead of running a large expedition with many climbers, we focus our attention on leading a more personal climbing team, concentrating our resources on each individual to ensure the safest, most enjoyable, and most successful experience possible for each one of our climbers. Our expedition is fully staffed and no extras or add-ons are needed. The smaller team ratios and thoroughly organized expedition facilitates better team dynamics, closer communication, individualized attention, and helps avoid the fragmentation inherent to larger expeditions. We believe this creates the strongest, safest, and most enjoyable climbing team possible.
With over four decades of mountain guiding experience RMI has rightfully earned our standing as one of the most distinguished guide services in the world: we maintain strict standards of safety, climb with small ratios, offer an unparalleled level of service, provide you with the best and most experienced guides, and have an infrastructure that is geared entirely toward your individual safety and success in the Himalayas.
THE RMI DIFFERENCE
Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. was established in 1969 and is one of America's oldest and most-trusted guide services. We are the largest guide service on Mt. Rainier and Mt. McKinley and a leader in guiding climbs and treks around the globe. Our experienced guides are some of the best in the world, more than 40 of whom have reached the summit of Mt. Everest, some multiple times. Our years of leading mountain adventures give us the experience and knowledge necessary to create the best possible trips. We work hard to live up to our reputation as an industry leader.
Our Cho Oyu expeditions are led by RMI’s foremost U.S. guides, who have years of climbing experience in the Himalayas and mountains all over the world. As you reach higher elevations and test the limits of your experience, the value of an accomplished, highly trained RMI Guide held to our standards cannot be understated. In addition, we are fortunate to have a very experienced Sherpa team on the mountain as our partners in Nepal. Our relationships there are the key to our trip's success. Experience and local knowledge are invaluable in the mountains and RMI's Sherpa Staff is some of the best around. The unparalleled support our team has throughout the climb is one of the major factors behind our successes.
At Base Camp we enjoy comfortable accommodations with personal sleeping tents, storage areas, shower facilities, private toilets, and heated dining facilities. Solar power at Base Camp charges personal electronic devices and allows us to maintain contact with the outside world. Weather forecasting services are used throughout our expedition to provide up to the minute weather information.
RMI provides excellent food at Base Camp and on the mountain, keeping our spirits elevated and health in order. Consequently our groups don't suffer the physical deterioration seen in many Himalayan teams. Our professional, experienced cooks maintain the highest standards of hygiene and our diverse menu is complemented by a constant supply of fresh vegetables as well as luxuries and "comfort foods" brought specially from the United States. Our exceptional focus on detail, our unparalleled level of climber attention, and our genuine passion of these adventures are what make our programs truly memorable.
SAFETY
Safety has always been RMI's top priority and we strive to create the safest mountain experience possible. Our experienced team of guides and Sherpa focus on leading a fun and successful climb without compromising safety. RMI believes in outfitting and guiding with a small team approach on our biggest mountains, this unusual degree of personal service from RMI's guides and Sherpa staff increases our margin of safety on the mountain and improves your chances of success.
Our expedition is stocked with comprehensive medical kits and Gamow bags for use throughout the expedition. Our guides and staff are highly trained in emergency mountain medicine and work to maintain our strict standards of safety. When problems arise on the mountain, away from medical facilities, the level of training and experience RMI's guides have makes them some of the most sought after guides in the profession.
Careful planning and vigilant care are taken as we venture into high altitudes. Our well-planned use of climbing oxygen dramatically improves a climber's chance of success on Cho Oyu. Our supply of oxygen is well stocked and designed to meet any climber's anticipated, and unanticipated, needs.
REQUIRED EXPERIENCE
Participants on our Cho Oyu Expedition must have a solid understanding of mountaineering skills. We require that each team member have previous high altitude experience, such as McKinley or Aconcagua. Screening and final selection will be done on an individual basis after we have reviewed your climbing resume and our veteran Himalayan Guides have spoken with you directly.
As you prepare for your upcoming adventure please feel free to contact our office and speak directly to one of our experienced guides regarding equipment, conditioning, the route, or any other questions you may have about our programs. We are available Monday through Friday 8:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. PT at (888) 89-CLIMB or info@rmiguides.com.
Day 1: TRAVEL DAY
Depart U.S.A: Most climbers and trekkers fly to Kathmandu (KTM) via Bangkok, Thailand. Travel time is approximately three days.
Day 2: TRAVEL DAY
Cross International Dateline. Arrive in Bangkok, with possible overnight depending on flight schedules.
Day 3: KATHMANDU • 4,383'
Arrive in Kathmandu. We are transferred to our hotel for some rest and recovery before our evening welcome dinner and reception. Overnight at Yak and Yeti Hotel.
Day 4: KATHMANDU • 4,383'
Situated in a bowl shaped valley in central Nepal, Kathmandu is the largest city in Nepal and it is the cosmopolitan heart of the Himalayan Region. Today the itinerary focuses on a thorough team meeting/orientation and equipment check, fitting for oxygen masks, arranging visas and permits, and any other last minute preparations. We can always do a short walking tour in the afternoon if time allows. Overnight at the Yak and Yeti Hotel.
Day 5: LHASA • 12,100'
Today we fly over the Himalayas to Lhasa, the cultural and religious center of Tibet. Upon arriving we transfer to our hotel and explore the surrounding area.
Day 6: LHASA • 12,100'
As our bodies adjust to the Lhasa’s high altitude, we have the opportunity to explore this fabled city. Built around the banks of the Lhasa River and serving as the spiritual center of Tibetan Buddhism, Lhasa is a vibrant and exciting place. Changing rapidly underneath Chinese influence, Lhasa is a diverse mix of ancient and modern lifestyles, with age-old Buddhist structures and practices alongside the pressures of Chinese modernism. During our time in Lhasa we have the chance to visit some of the famed sites such as the Potala Palace, the Jokhang Temple, Barkhor Square and the Barkhor Street Market.
Day 7: LHASA • 12,100'
We continue acclimatizing and in the afternoon have time to explore Lhasa on our own, relax, and prepare for our morning departure for Cho Oyu.
Day 8: XIGATSE • 12,795'
Leaving Lhasa, we follow the Friendship Highway southward across the barren Tibetan Plateau, reaching the village of Xigatse (12,795'). The Xigatse monastery contains the world’s largest gilded Buddha at over 70’ tall.
Day 9: TINGRI • 14,400'
Continuing from Xigatse, the snow capped Himalayas grow larger in the distance as we carry on our overland drive to the village of Tingri at 14,400'. At the foot of the Himalayas and for centuries a meeting place for trade between Nepal and Tibet, Tingri’s views of Everest, Cho Oyu, and Makalu are stunning.
Day 10: TINGRI • 14,400'
Building upon our acclimatization, we spend the day hiking in the hills around Tingri, overlooking the Tingri Dzong, a fort abandoned in the 18th century just to the south of town.
Day 11: BASE CAMP • 16,400'
We travel the final distance Tingri to Base Camp (16,400') on Cho Oyu. Tucked amongst rolling grasslands of the summer grazing pastures, Cho Oyu Base Camp is a dramatic setting of wandering yaks, dancing prayer flags, and stunning Himalayan peaks. Upon arriving, we unload our gear from the overland vehicles and prepare for the climb ahead.
Day 12: INTERIM CAMP • 17,500'
Leaving Base Camp (BC), our group climbs through the rocky lower slopes to Interim Camp (IC), en route to Advanced Base Camp (ABC). With our equipment carried by yaks, we shoulder only light daypacks as we settle into our climbing routine, shaking the miles of travel from our legs as we pick our way amidst the rocks and across icy streams, climbing past the many inscribed Buddhist mani stones that lie along the path.
Day 13: ADVANCED BASE CAMP • 18,500'
Continuing from Interim Camp, we leave the last tufts of vegetation and make the final approach to Advanced Base Camp and settle in our tents. Perched amongst the moraine and ice alongside the Gyabrag Glacier at the foot of Nangpa La Pass, a trade route still used to reach Nepal. This will be our home for the next several weeks.
Once at Cho Oyu Base Camp the itinerary can vary greatly, this is only an outline of the expedition’s movements. If weather and conditions allow for all team members to summit earlier, then the program schedule will be moved accordingly. Similarly, if the summit attempt is delayed we can arrange for extra days.
Days 14 to 37: THE CLIMB
Once at ABC we will rest for a few days, allowing our bodies to adapt to life at 18,500’. Using nearby terrain, we will review our climbing techniques, becoming comfortable and proficient on steep terrain and fixed lines. Shortly after our arrival, we will take part in our Puja Ceremony, a deeply meaningful and very exciting Buddhist ceremony led by a local lama before the start of any climbing expedition.
With our bodies acclimating to Base Camp, our Puja ceremony completed, and our training accomplished, we begin our acclimatization rounds on the mountain. Over the next weeks we will slowly work our way up the mountain, acclimatizing to higher and higher elevations and becoming stronger at altitude and familiar and comfortable with the terrain. Above ABC (18,500') we establish three camps. Camp 1 (21,000') is at the top of a long scree slope. From here the route is entirely on snow. We follow a gentle rounded ridge until we hit a short but steep ice cliff. We use a fixed rope to negotiate the cliff (normally about 60') and then continue across a gentle glacier before we start another slightly steeper slope that we ascend via a fixed rope. Camp 2 (23,100') is on an easy snow slope above. The ascent to reach Camp 3 (24,500') is relatively short and the climbing on more gentle snow slopes. Summit day consists of climbing intermediate snow slopes until we reach a series of rock bands, which we cross by way of their snow ledges. We come out onto a snow slope leading us to the summit ridge and then to what is often mistaken as the summit. The real summit is still about 1,200' away on almost flat snow.
The number of days this takes our team will vary due to weather, acclimatization, team strength, the number of caches we make, and other such circumstances. Our guides will use their vast mountain experience, knowledge, and decision-making abilities to maximize each climber's chance of reaching the summit of Cho Oyu.
TBD: BASE CAMP • 16,400'
We make the descent from ABC back to BC, marveling at the riot of green that we find after so many days at barren high altitudes.
TBD: BASE CAMP • 16,400'
Back at Base Camp we take advantage of the lower altitudes for some much-needed rest as we prepare all of our gear for our return to Kathmandu.
Day 40: ZANGMU • 7,544'
Leaving Base Camp, we regain the Friendship Highway and drive across the spectacular Nyalam Thongla Pass and through the
Nyalam Gorge, into the town of Zangmu (2,300 m). We spend our last night in Tibet in the village of Zangmu, high in the Himalayas near the border with Nepal.
Day 41: KATHMANDU • 4,383'
Drive from Zangmu to Kathmandu. We spend the night at the Yak & Yeti Hotel.
Day 42: CONTINGENCY DAY • 4,383'
This day is available in case of any delays.
Day 43: TRAVEL DAY
Depart Kathmandu. Most climbers fly from Kathmandu to Bangkok, and then onto the United States. An overnight in Bangkok is standard for most flights.
Day 44: TRAVEL DAY
Arrive home.
Cho Oyu Equipment List
The following is a list of required equipment. We may encounter a variety of weather conditions throughout our climb, including rain, wind, snow, sleet and extreme heat. Skimping on equipment can jeopardize your safety and success, so we want you to think carefully about any changes or substitutions you are considering. If you have questions regarding the equipment needed for your upcoming climb, give us a call and speak directly to one of our experienced guides.
Most of the required equipment is available for rent or purchase from our affiliate Whittaker Mountaineering. RMI climbers receive a 10% discount on new clothing and equipment items ordered from Whittaker Mountaineering. This offer excludes sale items. For internet orders, please use the discount code RMI 2012.
Pack & Bag Guides' Pick

BACKPACK: A 70+ liter pack is the recommended size for this climb. A separate summit pack is not needed.

DAY PACK: A 25+ liter day pack to use as carry-on, while traveling or sightseeing.

SLEEPING BAG: A bag rated -20° F will keep you warm. If you would prefer NOT to share group bags at the higher camps, you should bring a second bag rated -20° F or lower.
Technical Gear Guides' Pick

ICE AXE: The length of your axe depends on your height. Use the following general mountaineering formula: up to 5'8", use a 65 cm. axe; 5'8" to 6'2", use a 70 cm. axe; and taller, use a 75 cm. axe. If you hold the axe so that it hangs comfortably at your side, the spike of the axe should still be a few inches above the ground.

CRAMPONS: The 12-point adjustable crampons designed for general mountaineering are ideal. Carry any repair kit/replacement parts and adjusting tools which are specific to your crampons.

RAPPEL DEVICE: A figure eight or ATC rappel device. If using an ATC, ensure that it can handle rope sizes from 6 to 13mm.

12 ' PERLON CORD: 6 mm cordelette in one continuous length.
Head Guides' Pick

BUFF OR BANDANA: A buff or bandana provides good protection from the sun and dust as well as insulation from the cold, dry air.

2 PAIR GLACIER GLASSES: A pair of dark-lensed sunglasses with side shields or full wrap-type sunglasses.

GOGGLES: Amber or rose-tinted goggles for adverse weather. Additionally, contact lens wearers may find a clear-lensed goggle very useful on windy nights.

CONTACT LENSES/ EYEGLASSES: Spare prescription glasses if you wear contact lenses/eyeglasses. Bring extra contact lenses and solution.
Hands Guides' Pick

HEAVY WEIGHT INSULATED GLOVE OR MITTEN: Wind/water resistant, insulated gloves or mittens for protection against wind, snow and cold. These also serve as emergency back-ups if you drop or lose a glove.

WORK GLOVES
Upper Body Guides' Pick

2 LIGHT TO MEDIUM WEIGHT BASELAYER: Long-sleeve wool or synthetic top will be used as your base layer. Zip-neck styles will allow for better temperature regulation.

INSULATED PARKA with HOOD: This item becomes of highest importance when we are faced with poor weather. This should be an expeditionary-type heavy parka that extends well below the waist and above the knees. Goose down is recommended versus synthetic fill. It does not have to be waterproof, but that is a nice feature. The parka is worn primarily at rest breaks on summit day and as an emergency garment if needed. When sizing a parka, allow for several layers to be worn underneath; buy it large. The parka must have an insulated hood.

1 - 2 NON-COTTON HIKING SHIRT: Lightweight, synthetic shirt with either long or short sleeves. The long sleeve is preferred for sun protection.
Lower Body Guides' Pick

CLIMBING PANT: Synthetic climbing pants offer a wide range of versatility. You can wear them alone on hot days, or in combination with the base layer on cold days. The thickness (insulation quality) should be based on how well you do in the cold.

HARD SHELL PANT: A pant made of breathable rain and wind-proof material will be needed. Full-length side zippers are required for facilitating quick clothing adjustments over boots and crampons in cold, inclement weather.

DOWN PANT: Required if you are not bringing a Down Suit. This should be an expeditionary-style pant.

LIGHT WEIGHT TREKKING PANT: A lightweight, synthetic pair of pants is a good option for the approach trek when hiking at lower altitudes and in warm conditions. These pants have no insulation, are typically made of thin nylon, and commonly feature zippers to convert between pants and shorts.
Feet Guides' Pick

MOUNTAINEERING BOOTS: A new breed of composite boot like the Olympus Mons or an expedition-style plastic double boot in combination with a full overboot is mandatory. Price is the best indicator. Though expensive, the function of footwear is of crucial importance. Select a brand's "top of the line" model and it should be sufficient for Mount Vinson. The boot needs to be roomy enough to allow for good circulation. Anticipate a sock combination when sizing them (single sock, liner and sock, or two heavy socks on each foot). Wear the boots as often as possible before the climb, to determine proper fit, comfort and performance. It is recommended that you keep your boots in your carry-on luggage for all of your commercial flights in case your luggage is mis-directed.

OVERBOOTS: These are not necessary with all-in-one boot / gaiter models. Expedition overboots add significant warmth, especially at high altitude and need to be compatible with the style of crampons used.

LIGHTWEIGHT HIKING SHOES: Great for travel, day hikes, and camp.

GAITERS: A knee-length pair of gaiters, large enough to fit over your mountaineering boots. This will protect you from catching your crampons on loose clothing.
Miscellaneous Items Guides' Pick

3 - 4 SETS EXTRA BATTERIES FOR HEADLAMP: Lithium batteries perform best in cold environments.

MEALS: See the Food tab for suggestions and quantities.

6-8 CHEMICAL HAND WARMERS

2 WATER BOTTLES: One-quart water bottles are required. Wide mouth bottles are ideal since their opening is less likely to freeze.

2 INSULATED WATER BOTTLE COVERS: These help prevent liquids from freezing. It should completely cover the bottle.

POTABLE AQUA: Water purification for 50 quarts.

4 - 5 GARBAGE BAGS (Large): We recommend lining your backpack with garbage bags to keep items in your backpack completely dry.

2 SETS BATTERIES: For avalanche transceiver.

LUGGAGE LOCKS: For your duffel bags. Must be TSA approved.

STUFF SACKS

CAMERA

LIGHTER

WATCH with alarm and light: Altimeter models are popular.
Travel Clothes

SHORTS

CASUAL PANTS

SHIRTS

SWEATER / SWEATSHIRT

COMFORTABLE SHOES

SUNGLASSES

SWIMSUIT
Toilet Articles

TOOTHBRUSH

PEE BOTTLE: 1 to 1 1/2 quart size
Personal First Aid Kit

BAND-AIDS

ASPRIN / IBUPROFEN / TYLENOL

MOLESKIN

ANTACIDS

IMMODIUM (ANTI-DIARRHEA)

PEPTO-BISMOL (STOMACH RELIEF)

SMALL ROLL OF ADHESIVE TAPE
Personal Medications

ANTIBIOTICS: Broad spectrum antibiotics for Traveler's Diarrhea.

ANTIBIOTICS: Antibiotics for upper respiratory infection.

TYLENOL #3: Tylenol 3 for pain

ACETAZOLAMIDE: For Altitiude Illness
Utensils Guides' Pick
Travel Documents

PASSPORT: Valid for six months beyond your return date.

COPY OF PASSPORT: The first two pages of your passport.

COPY OF FLIGHT ITINERARY

2 EXTRA PASSPORT PHOTOS
Optional Items

BABY POWDER

READING MATERIAL / JOURNAL

iPOD or MP3 PLAYER

PERSONAL SOLAR CHARGER: A small solar panel is a great way to charge your iPod or camera.
Provided Equipment

RMI provides the following group equipment and technical hardware for your climb: tents, upper mountain community sleeping bags and pads, stoves and cooking equipment, climbing and fixed ropes, climbing anchors, shovels, route wands, radios for on-mountain communication, and comprehensive first aid and repair kits. Two bottles of climbing oxygen will be provided. Additional bottles are available upon request.
Pre-Trip Checklist

Purchase travel insurance.

Return the Participant Information Form to the RMI Office.

Purchase airplane tickets.

Reserve rental equipment.

Be in the Best Shape of Your Life!
Meals
All meals and an assortment of snacks are provided during the expedition. The value of careful planning cannot be overstated for a high altitude expedition and we work diligently to keep our climbers fit and content.
Please list any special dietary needs on the Participant Information Form. The form must be returned to the RMI Office 90 days prior to the program departure date.
Snacks
While the food in the mountains is excellent, it is nice to bring along a few of your favorite snacks and drink mixes to enjoy after a long day. We recommend that climbers bring 10 - 12 lbs. of their absolute favorite snacks and comfort foods to have throughout the expedition as a supplement to the foods that we provide.
You will want to have a few snack items with you everyday to fuel you up the trail. We continually snack to keep our energy levels up while we climb - lunch begins just after breakfast and ends just before dinner!
The importance of having snacks and lunch foods that are genuinely enjoyed cannot be overstated. Eating properly is the key to maintaining strength while in the mountains. In order to combat the loss of appetite at altitude we aim to have a variety of foods that stimulate the whole palate, from sweet to sour to salty.
Recommended snack items: dry salami, smoked salmon, Jerky (turkey, beef, fish), small cans of tuna fish, individually wrapped cheeses such as Laughing Cow or Baby Bell, crackers, bagels, candy bars, hard candies (Jolly Ranchers, Toffees, Life Savers), Gummy Bears, Sour candies (Sweet Tarts), cookies, dried fruit, nuts, energy bars, GORP mixes, and drink mixes (Gatorade/Kool-Aid).
Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner
Breakfasts consist of most typical choices. Eggs, toast, hash browns, corn flakes, muesli, oatmeal, pancakes and the local specialties of chapatti and Tibetan bread are all common menu items. Breakfast is accompanied by juice, coffee, tea, cocoa and other hot drinks.
Lunch and dinner options include a variety of choices. Soups (commonly tomato, vegetable, noodle, or hearty "sherpa stew") are excellent starters. Main courses like chicken and yak dishes, pastas, pizzas, and even fries are served alongside vegetable fried rice or noodles. Be sure to save room for a dessert such as apple pie, chocolate cake, or "snickers pie"!
On the mountain, similar meals are served. Lunches and dinners include several courses, beginning with soup and ending with dessert.
Qualifications
Participants on our Cho Oyu Expedition must have a solid understanding of mountaineering skills. We require that each team member have previous high altitude experience, such as McKinley or Aconcagua. Screening and final selection will be done on an individual basis after we have reviewed your RMI Registration Form and our veteran Himalayan Guides have spoken with you directly.
Physical Fitness Training
Mountaineering requires a high degree of physical stamina and mental toughness. Even for the healthiest and fittest individuals, mountaineering qualifies as an extremely challenging endeavor. Most importantly, it requires an intentional fitness program, one which mimics the physical demands of the climb.
There is no better training for mountaineering than up and downhill climbing. Focus on gaining the necessary strength and stamina to go up and down steep slopes while carrying a climbing pack. Start immediately, stick with a rigorous fitness program and arrive in top physical condition. Nothing ensures a personally successful adventure like your level of fitness. Bottom line: Plan on being in the best shape of your life!
Please refer to our Fitness for Mountaineering page for detailed information regarding conditioning.
Acclimatization
Excellent physical conditioning significantly increases your ability to acclimatize.
The key to climbing high is proper acclimatization. Our program follows a calculated ascent profile which allows time for your body to adjust to the altitude. In addition to a proper rate of ascent, your performance is often related to how well you have taken care of yourself throughout the hours, days and weeks prior to summit day. Proper hydration, nutrition, and warmth must be maintained on a daily basis throughout the expedition.
Travel Consultant
RMI has partnered with Erin Rountree to provide our clients with comprehensive travel support. As an independent agent of the Travel Society, she has booked countless miles for adventure travelers across the globe. We have been working with Erin for many years and she is very knowledgeable about the travel needs of our programs. Please call (208) 788-2870 or email at etravel@cox.net.
Travel Insurance
We strongly encourage everyone to purchase travel insurance which covers trip cancellation, interruption, delay, baggage loss or delay, medical expenses, medical evacuation and repatriation. Travel insurance offers the best possible protection if you have a sudden, unexpected illness or injury prior to or when traveling. Check with the insurance provider for specific coverage details including adventure/sports coverage. Additional cancellation coverage may be available if purchased within 14 days of making your trip deposit. However, trip insurance can be purchased at any time prior to the start of your program.
For more information please visit one of the websites below, or contact your local travel agent.
| AIG Travel Guard | International Health Insurance |
| Travelex Insurance | Erin Rountree |
Getting There
Most climbers fly to Kathmandu (KTM) via Thailand, with an overnight in Bangkok. During your flight you will cross the International Date Line. Travel time is approximately three days. If you would like to see the mountains as you fly into Kathmandu, make sure you sit on the right-hand side of the plane.
Entry Requirements
A valid passport is required for entering Nepal and for entering Tibet. Your passport must be valid for 6 months beyond the expected date of return.
We suggest making a copy of the first two pages of your passport and keeping them in a separate bag as a backup. A copy should also be left with your emergency contact.
Visas and Airport Arrival
Nepal: All foreigners (except Indian Nationals) require visas, which can be obtained in advance or upon arrival with one passport photo and payment in cash (U.S. Dollars).
When you arrive at Kathmandu Tribhuvan Airport go to the visa counter for visitors without a visa. Debarkation forms and visa application forms are both available in the arrivals hall. You will need 1 passport photo for your visa application.
Outside the arrivals hall there will be a large group of taxi drivers and agents from many hotels and travel companies. Look for a sign with the name RMI Expeditions. This will be your RMI guide and the driver who will take you to your hotel in Kathmandu.
Tibet: All arrangements for our Tibet visas and flights to Lhasa will be made in Kathmandu. The costs of the Tibet visa and flights to Lhasa are included in the price of your program.
Please confirm any current travel advisories/warnings as well as passport and visa requirements with the U.S. Department of State.
Immuniziations / Travel Medicine
For the most updated information on inoculation requirements and recommendations, please refer to the Centers for Diseases Control and Prevention.
Departure Tax
Current airport tax is Nepalese Rupees 1,695 per person when flying back to Thailand or other non SAARC Countries (South Asian Association for Regional Cooperation). The departure tax in Kathmandu is to be paid at a special bank counter located inside the airport terminal and prior to checking in to the flight. The tax is dependent on your out-bound flight's destination and may change.
Country Facts
Nepal: Nepal is one of the world's richest countries in terms of bio-diversity due to its unique geographical position and the variations in altitude. The elevation of the country ranges from 60 meter above sea level to the highest point on earth, Mount Everest at 8,848 meters, all within a distance of 150 km resulting into climatic conditions from Sub-tropical to Arctic.
Capital: Kathmandu.
Population: 23.1 million
Language: Nepali is the national language. English is widely understood and spoken within the tourism industry as well.
Political System: Multi-party Democracy.
Tibet: Tibet lies at the center of Asia, with an area of 2.5 million square kilometers. The earth's highest mountains, a vast arid plateau and great river valleys make up the physical homeland of 6 million Tibetans. Lhasa, which means "land of the gods," is the heart of Tibet. Over 1,300 years old, it sits in a valley along the Lhasa River. Traditional Tibetan influence is still strong and quite evident, especially around the old quarters near Barkhor. With good hotels, excellent restaurants, and a fascinating cultural heritage, Lhasa is wonderful place to visit.
Capital: Lhasa
Population: 6 million Tibetans and an estimated 7.5 million Chinese.
Average Altitude: 13,000' above sea level.
Language: Tibetan. The official language is Chinese.
Political System: Communist
Etiquette
Although it is not expected that American tourists dress formally in Nepal or Tibet, it is expected that they dress modestly. Casual and comfortable clothing is suggested along with comfortable shoes.
Money
Nepal: The official currency of Nepal is the Nepalese Rupee (NPR). A recent exchange rate was about 76 NPR to the U.S. Dollar. In Nepal you are almost always required to pay for goods or services with the Nepalese Rupee. It is recommended that you change to Nepalese Rupees only as much money as you think you may spend as local currencies cannot be removed from the country or reconverted easily.
American Express, MasterCard and Visa are accepted in tourist shops, hotels, restaurants and agencies. You will find a large number of ATMs in Kathmandu and using ATMs is a far easier method of obtaining cash. Traveler’s checks are a good backup and the safest way to carry money, but are not easily cashed and usually have a much lower exchange rate. If you are planning to use traveler’s checks, we recommend that you buy America Express as they are most widely recognized and accepted.
Tibet: The official currency of Tibet is the China Yuan Renminbi (CNY). A recent exchange rate was about 6.8 CNY to the U.S. Dollar. Credit Cards are accepted in some places in Lhasa but rarely outside of the city. There are several ATMs located in Lhasa but we recommend bringing U.S. Dollars or traveler’s checks as a backup in case you are unable to withdraw money from them. Your guides can help you exchange your U.S. Dollars for CNY once you reach Lhasa. Traveler's checks are also now accepted at the Bank of China in the city of Lhasa. As in Nepal, we recommend using American Express traveler’s checks in Tibet.
Everyone has a preferred way to carry money. Some use money belts, others have hidden pockets. Whatever you do, be aware of pickpockets and thieves in any area that caters to tourists.
Tipping
Local waiters, drivers, and other service personnel expect to be tipped. Restaurants and hotels may add 5 % to 10% to bills in which case no further tip is required; otherwise a 10% tip is customary in places that cater to tourists. It is customary to tip guides and porters on treks and climbs. Elsewhere it is not customary to tip, but gratuities are always appreciated.
Mountain Staff Tip Pool - We recommend that each climber contribute $400.00 to the pool. This will be split between all of our mountain staff.
Our guides work hard to ensure your well being and success on the mountain. If you have a positive experience, gratuities are an excellent way to show your appreciation. Amounts are at your discretion and should be based on your level of enjoyment. Tips for excellent service normally average 10 – 15% of the cost of the program.
Health
Travelers often suffer from upset stomachs when in Nepal. There are some basic rules, however, that can help keep you healthy.
- Hygiene - It is important that you wash your hands thoroughly before meals and after using any bathroom. If water is not available for washing, we recommend using a hand sanitizer.
- Water - The number one rule is: don't drink the water, and that includes shower water and ice! Brush your teeth with purified water rather than tap water. You should check bottled water for a good seal and use a napkin to wipe dry excess moisture in drinking glasses. Take care with fruit juice, particularly if it has been diluted with water. Carefully clean the tops of bottled beverages before opening.
- Food - If you can cook it, boil it, or peel it; you can usually eat it. Salads and fruits should be washed with purified water or peeled where possible. Be wary of ice cream and shellfish. Always avoid any undercooked meat.
Photography
Nepal and Tibet are very photogenic and the photos you take will be priceless. Ask for permission before photographing individuals, particularly indigenous people. Many of the locals are accustomed to posing for photographs. They may appreciate a small gift in return. If in doubt, either ask or refrain. Don't photograph any government or military property or persons; this includes the airport.
Electricity
Domestic consumption of electricity in Katmandu and Lhasa normally comes in 220 Volts/50 cycles. It is advisable to carry voltage converters and plug adapters with you while traveling. Voltage converters and plug adapters are easily accessible at shopping malls in the cities of Nepal and the U.S.
Travel Advisories / Warnings
Please confirm any current travel advisories/warnings as well as passport and visa requirements with the US Department of State.
Resources
There are a number of books on travel health including: Staying Healthy in Asia, Africa and Latin America by Dirk Schroeder. Lonely Planet, Let's Go, Fodor's and Frommers are all good travel guides. Information and updates can be found on the website for the U.S. Department of State Bureau of Consular Affairs, which provides medical information for travelers as well as the consular information.
Payments
A deposit of $2,500 per person secures your reservation. Deposit payments may be made via wire transfer or check. Final payment is due 120 days prior to the start of your program, and we will send you a payment reminder approximately three weeks before your payment is due. Balance payments may be made via check or wire transfer only. If your final payment is not received within 120 days of the program your reservation will be cancelled and all fees forfeited. Trips departing within 120 days from the reservation date must be paid in full at the time of reservation.
Cancellations
Once we receive written notification (mail, e-mail, or fax) that you are canceling an individual participant or your entire reservation the following fees will apply. A fee of $2,500 per person will be charged for cancellations made more than 90 days before departure. There will be no refunds for cancellations made less than 90 days before your program. Unfortunately, due to the time-sensitive nature of our business, and the difficulty in re-booking a trip close to departure, we cannot make exceptions to this policy.
We strongly encourage everyone to consider purchasing travel insurance. Travel insurance offers the best possible protection if you have a sudden, unexpected illness or injury prior to or when traveling. Check with the insurance provider for specific coverage details. If you have not yet purchased travel insurance, you may do so prior to commencement of the program. For more information please visit one of the websites below, or contact your local travel agent.
| AIG Travel Guard | International Health Insurance |
| Travelex Insurance | Erin Rountree |
Land Cost
Included are the following:
- RMI Leadership
- Transportation to and from the airport in Kathmandu
- Visas, permits, and administration required for entrance into Tibet
- Round-trip flight to Lhasa
- All group camping supplies such as mountain tents, stoves, fuel, cooking tent, dining tent, shower tent and storage tent.
- All meals as stated in the itinerary
- Hotel accommodations as stated in the itinerary
- Park fees and climbing permit fees
- Liaison and Sirdar officers
- Sherpa support
- Camp staff and cooking staff
- Radio communications, including hand held radio for each team member
- Power supply at Base Camp
- Porter support
- Yak support
- Portable hyperbaric chambers, emergency medical oxygen
- Climbing oxygen and Top Out Mask
- A single tent at Base Camp with a foam trekking mattress
- High-altitude camp equipment and supplies, and Sherpa support on summit day
- Climbing Sherpa will establish camps, carry group equipment (including sleeping bags and pads), establish the route, etc.
- Weather forecasting
Not included are the following:
- International round-trip air fare and travel expenses to/from Kathmandu
- Accommodations and meals in Kathmandu not included in itinerary
- Personal clothing and equipment
- Excess baggage charges
- Airport taxes and Nepal entry visas and re-entry fees
- Sherpa tip pool (we suggest $500 for summit climbers)
- Tips for RMI Guides
- Rescue costs or costs associated with early departure from the expedition
- Personal communications expenses (Satellite phone, phone, fax, email)
- Personal expenses, room charges and laundry
- Personal drinks and beverages
- International departure taxes
- Nepal Custom Duties / Chinese Custom Duties
- Costs incurred as a result of delays or events beyond the control of RMI
- Recommended insurance policies (medical, evacuation, trip cancellation, etc.)
- Additional personal Sherpa support is available, but must be arranged before the expedition.
- The cost of delays due to weather, road or trail conditions, flight delays, government intervention, illness, medical issues hospitalization, evacuation costs (by helicopter or any other means), or any other contingency which we or our agents cannot control are not included.
* Single Travelers: If you wish to share accommodations, we will assign you a roommate. If you wish to stay alone, a supplemental fee will be charged for a single room. The single supplement is not available in huts, tents, or in all hotels.
Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. reserves the right to modify the land cost of a trip at any time before departure.
Risk Management
Safety is RMI's number one priority. Our guides manage significant hazards inherent in mountaineering such as avalanches, ice fall, rock fall, inclement weather, and high winds, but they cannot eliminate them. RMI guides draw from their wealth of experience and training to make sound decisions that improve your chance of reaching the summit without compromising the necessary margin of safety.
Please clearly understand that mountaineering is inherently a hazardous sport. You are choosing to engage in an activity in which participants have been injured and killed. While those accidents are indeed infrequent, they may occur at any time and be out of our control. We ask that participants acknowledge the risk and hazards of mountaineering, and make their own choices about whether or not to engage in this activity.
Climber Responsibilities
Mountaineering is both an individual challenge and a team endeavor. Some of the responsibility for the team is carried by the individual climbers. For this reason, we ask that each participant:
- is physically and mentally fit, properly attired and equipped, and continues to self assess throughout the program to ensure as safe a climb as possible. If a climber's own physical fitness limits his or her ability to safely continue upward, that can have a negative impact on the summit experience or opportunity of other climb participants.
- honestly and accurately describe themselves, in terms of fitness, health and skills, and their equipment to their guides, and that they adhere to the advice of their professional mountain guide.
Age-Appropriate Guidelines & Restrictions
In the interest of the safety and well-being of all participants, RMI adheres to the following age-appropriate guidelines and restrictions on all climbing programs, domestic and international.
- Ages 15 & under: No participants age 15 & under
- Ages 16 & 17: Accompanied by parent or legal guardian
- Ages 18 & above: No restrictions
An individual’s birthday must precede the departure date of the program. For example: a 15 year old who turns 16 on July 1 may participate on a program beginning July 2.
Accompaniment by parent or legal guardian is required for the program or climb.
Under-aged participants on Private Climb or Group Climb programs are assessed on an individual basis.
General Policies
RMI's program plans and itineraries are subject to change or adjustment based on a number of factors. These include, but are not limited to, route conditions, weather, terrain, and many other factors. RMI has complete discretion to change plans to accommodate any of these or other factors, including discretion to change program schedule or itinerary, and change guides or staff, as necessary for the proper and safe conduct of the program.
We reserve the right to cancel any program due to inadequate signups, weather or route conditions. In such a case, a full refund is given; however, RMI cannot be responsible for any additional expenses incurred in preparing for the program (i.e., airline tickets, equipment purchase or rental, hotel reservations).
RMI cannot guarantee that you will reach the summit. Weather, route conditions, your own abilities, or the abilities of other climbers may create circumstances that make an ascent unsafe, and you or your entire party may have to turn around without reaching the summit. Failure to reach the summit due to a person's own lack of fitness or to any of the events associated with mountaineering (such as weather, route, avalanche hazard, team dynamics, etc.), are not Rainier Mountaineering, Inc.'s responsibility and will not result in refund or reschedule.
If the Participant decides to leave a trip at any time after the start of the trip and prior to its conclusion, he or she will not be entitled to a refund.
RMI reserves the right to dismiss the Participant from a trip or to send the Participant to a lower altitude at any time if RMI determines, in its sole discretion, that the Participant is not physically, technically, or psychologically prepared for or capable of participating in the program.



