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Cho Oyu

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Climb Details

Cost:
Length:
Difficulty:
Type:

$18500
44 day(s)
Level 5 difficulty 
Mountaineering

Availability



Upcoming Climbs

August 31, 2010 Casey Grom  

If you have high altitude climbing experience on mountains like Mt. McKinley or Aconcagua and are ready to take it to the next level, consider joining us on an expedition to Cho Oyu and challenge yourself on this 8,000 meter Himalayan peak. Small climbing teams, high guide ratios, and superior organization and logistics make a huge difference when climbing the world's highest mountains.

"This was a first class trip with first class guides."
— Rob I.

Cho Oyu is situated on the Nepal/Tibet border, just 40 miles west of Mount Everest. The world's sixth highest mountain, it is regarded as one of the more straightforward climbs of the fourteen 8,000 meter peaks. The Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. expedition to Cho Oyu enables climbers with high determination a chance to reach an 8,000 meter summit. The safety precautions and logistical expertise are the same as for Everest and the standard of equipment equally high. This program is a great way to train for a potential Mount Everest expedition or to simply break through the 8000 meter mark.

Route Description:

Above ABC (18,500') we establish three camps. Camp 1 (21,000') is at the top of a long scree slope. From here the route is entirely on snow. We follow a gentle rounded ridge until we hit a short-but-steep ice cliff. We use a fixed rope to negotiate the cliff (normally about 60') and then continue across a gentle glacier before we start another slightly steeper slope which we ascend via a fixed rope. Camp 2 (23,100') is on an easy snow slope.

The day to reach Camp 3 (24,500') is relatively short -- about 3 to 4 hours, climbing more gentle snow slopes. From here we can reach the summit in 5 to 7 hours and return to Camp 2 for the evening.

This final day consists of climbing intermediate snow slopes until we reach a series of rock bands, which we cross by way of their snow ledges. We come out onto a snow slope leading us to the summit ridge and then to what is often mistaken as the summit. The real summit is still about 1,200' away on almost flat snow.

Expedition Highlights:

  • Small team
  • High guide to climber ratio
  • High Sherpa ratio - 1 Sherpa to 1 guide/climber
  • Great first 8,000 meter peak with less objective hazards and technical terrain
  • Lead by experienced RMI guides who have stood on the summit of Cho Oyu
  • Best Sherpa and support staff and logistics on Cho Oyu

As you prepare for your upcoming adventure please feel free to contact our office and speak directly to one of our experienced guides regarding equipment, conditioning, the route, or any other questions you may have about our programs. We are available Monday thru Friday 8:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. at (888) 89-CLIMB or info@rmiguides.com.

The following is a list of equipment for the program. Skimping on equipment can jeopardize your safety and success, so we want you to think carefully about any changes or substitutions you are considering.

Most of the required equipment is available for rent or purchase from Whittaker Mountaineering. RMI participants receive a 10 percent discount on new clothing and equipment items ordered from Whittaker Mountaineering (excluding sale items). The Discount Code is RMI 2010 for internet orders. For more information or questions regarding clothing and equipment items call 800-238-5756 or click below.

Pack & Bag Guides' Pick

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2 DUFFEL BAG(S): 120+ liter bag(s) made of tough material with rugged zippers.


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BACKPACK: A 70+ liter pack is the recommended size for this climb.  A separate summit pack is not needed.


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DAY PACK: A 25+ liter day pack to use as carry-on, while traveling or sightseeing.


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SLEEPING BAG: A bag rated -20° F will keep you warm. If you would prefer NOT to share group bags at the higher camps, you should bring a second bag rated -20° F or lower.


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COMPRESSION STUFF SACK FOR SLEEPING BAG


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SLEEPING PAD - INFLATABLE: A full-length inflatable pad.


Technical Gear Guides' Pick

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ICE AXE: The length of your axe depends on your height. Use the following general mountaineering formula: up to 5'8", use a 65 cm. axe; 5'8" to 6'2", use a 70 cm. axe; and taller, use a 75 cm. axe. If you hold the axe so that it hangs comfortably at your side, the spike of the axe should still be a few inches above the ground.


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CLIMBING HARNESS: A comfortable, adjustable climbing harness.


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4 NON-LOCKING CARABINER(S)


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2 LOCKING CARABINER(S)


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HELMET: A lightweight climbing helmet.


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CRAMPONS: The 12-point adjustable crampons designed for general mountaineering are ideal. Carry any repair kit/replacement parts and adjusting tools which are specific to your crampons.


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MECHANICAL ASCENDER: For traveling on fixed ropes.


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RAPPEL DEVICE: A figure eight rappel device is the most versatile as it works with a variety of rope sizes. If you prefer an ATC, ensure that it can handle rope sizes from 6 to 13mm.


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60 cm sewn sling


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12 ' PERLON CORD: 6 mm cordelette


Head Guides' Pick

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2 WARM HATS: Wool or synthetic hats; one light and one heavy.


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BALL CAP OR SUN HAT: A lightweight ball cap or sun hat.


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BUFF OR BANDANA: A bandana or buff provides good protection from sun and dust.


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2 PAIR GLACIER GLASSES: A pair of dark-lensed sunglasses with side shields or full wrap-type sunglasses.


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GOGGLES: Amber or rose-tinted goggles for adverse weather. Additionally, contact lens wearers may find a clear-lensed goggle very useful on windy nights.


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CONTACT LENSES/ EYEGLASSES: Bring extra contact lenses and solution.


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3 - 4 SETS BATTERIES FOR HEADLAMP: We strongly recommend Lithium batteries as they perform well in a cold environment. 

 
 

Hands Guides' Pick

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LIGHT WEIGHT GLOVE: Fleece or wool gloves.


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1 - 2 MEDIUM WEIGHT GLOVE: Wind/water resistant insulated ski gloves.


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HEAVY WEIGHT INSULATED GLOVE OR MITTEN: Wind/water resistant, insulated gloves or mittens for protection against wind, snow and cold. These also serve as emergency back-ups if you drop or lose a glove.


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WORK GLOVES


Upper Body Guides' Pick

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2 LIGHT TO MEDIUM WEIGHT BASELAYER: Long-sleeve wool or synthetic top will be used as your base layer. Zip-neck styles will allow for better temperature regulation.


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LIGHT INSULATING LAYER: A fleece or other insulation layer.


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SOFT SHELL LAYER: A windproof, water-resistant and highly breathable layer.


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HARD SHELL JACKET: A jacket made of rain/wind-proof material with an attached hood.


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INSULATED PARKA with HOOD: This item becomes of highest importance when we are faced with poor weather. This should be an expeditionary-type heavy parka that extends well below the waist and above the knees. Goose down is recommended versus synthetic fill. It does not have to be waterproof, but that is a nice feature. The parka is worn primarily in camp, at rest breaks, and on summit day (when it is of crucial importance). When sizing a parka, allow for several layers to be worn underneath; buy it large. The parka must have an insulated hood.


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1 - 2 NON-COTTON HIKING SHIRT: Lightweight, synthetic shirt with either long or short sleeves. The long sleeve is preferred for sun protection.


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DOWN SUIT: An 8,000 meter down suit.

 
Mountain Hardwear Absolute Zero Suit

Lower Body Guides' Pick

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3 - 4 PAIR UNDERWEAR: Non-cotton briefs or boxers are a must on the mountain.


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LIGHT TO MEDIUM WEIGHT BASELAYER: Light to medium weight wool or synthetic bottoms.


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CLIMBING PANT: Synthetic climbing pants offer a wide range of versatility. You can wear them alone on hot days, or in combination with the base layer on cold days. The thickness (insulation quality) should be based on how well you do in the cold.


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HARD SHELL PANT: A pant made of breathable rain and wind-proof material will be needed. Full-length side zippers are required for facilitating quick clothing adjustments over boots and crampons in cold, inclement weather.


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DOWN PANT: Required if you are not bringing a Down Suit. This should be an expeditionary-style pant.

 
Mountain Hardwear Absolute Zero Pant

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LIGHT WEIGHT TREKKING PANT: A lightweight, synthetic pair of pants is a good option for the approach trek when hiking at lower altitudes and in warm conditions. These pants have no insulation, are typically made of thin nylon, and commonly feature zippers to convert between pants and shorts.


Feet Guides' Pick

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MOUNTAINEERING BOOTS: A new breed of composite boot like the Olympus Mons or an expedition-style plastic double boot in combination with a full overboot is mandatory. Price is the best indicator. Though expensive, the function of footwear is of crucial importance. Select a brand's "top of the line" model and it should be sufficient for Mount Vinson. The boot needs to be roomy enough to allow for good circulation. Anticipate a sock combination when sizing them (single sock, liner and sock, or two heavy socks on each foot). Wear the boots as often as possible before the climb, to determine proper fit, comfort and performance. It is recommended that you keep your boots in your carry-on luggage for all of your commercial flights in case your luggage is mis-directed.


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OVERBOOTS: These are not necessary with all-in-one boot / gaiter models. Expedition overboots add significant warmth, especially at high altitude and need to be compatible with the style of crampons used.


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HIKING BOOTS: A pair of lightweight boots for approaches and hiking on rugged terrain.


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LIGHTWEIGHT HIKING SHOES: Great for travel, day hikes, and camp.

Men:
  • La Sportiva Exum Ridge

Women:
  • La Sportiva Exum Ridge

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GAITERS: A knee-length pair of gaiters, large enough to fit over your mountaineering boots. This will protect you from catching your crampons on loose clothing.


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4 - 8 SOCKS: Either wool or synthetic. Some people find liner socks useful for reducing friction.


Miscellaneous Items Guides' Pick

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LIP PROTECTION


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MEALS: See Food Recommendations for suggestions and quantities.


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6-8 CHEMICAL HAND WARMERS


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2 WATER BOTTLES: One-quart water bottles are required. Wide mouth bottles are ideal since their opening is less likely to freeze.


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2 INSULATED WATER BOTTLE COVERS: These help prevent liquids from freezing. It should completely cover the bottle.


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POTABLE AQUA: Water purification for 50 quarts.


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4 - 5 GARBAGE BAGS (Large): We recommend lining your backpack with garbage bags to keep items in your backpack completely dry.


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2 ROLLS TOILET PAPER


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EAR PLUGS: For sleeping.


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2 AA BATTERIES: For avalanche transceiver. Avalanche transceivers are supplied by RMI.


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LUGGAGE LOCKS: For your duffel bags. Must be TSA approved.


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STUFF SACKS


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CAMERA


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LIGHTER


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THERMOS: High quality, lightweight, unbreakable 1/2 to 1 quart.


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PEE BOTTLE: 1 to 1 1/2 quart size


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WATCH with alarm and light: Altimeter models are popular.


Travel Clothes

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SHORTS


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CASUAL PANTS


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SHIRTS


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SWEATER / SWEATSHIRT


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COMFORTABLE SHOES


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SUNGLASSES


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SWIMSUIT


Toilet Articles

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TOOTHBRUSH


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TOOTHPASTE


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BABY WIPES


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HAND SANITIZER: Personal size.


Personal First Aid Kit

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BAND-AIDS


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ASPRIN / IBUPROFEN


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MOLESKIN


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ANTACIDS


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IMMODIUM (ANTI-DIARRHEA)


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PEPTO-BISMOL (STOMACH RELIEF)


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SMALL ROLL OF ADHESIVE TAPE


Personal Medications

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ANTIBIOTICS: Antibiotics for Traveler's Diarrhea


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ANTIBIOTICS: Antibiotics for upper respiratory infection.


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TYLENOL #3: Tylenol 3 for pain


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DIAMOX: Acetazolamide for Altitiude Illness (250 mg. tabs)


Utensils Guides' Pick

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2 SPOON or SPORK


Travel Documents

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PASSPORT: Valid for six months beyond your return date.


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COPY OF PASSPORT: The first two pages of your passport.


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COPY OF FLIGHT ITINERARY


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2 EXTRA PASSPORT PHOTOS


Optional Items

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BABY POWDER


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READING MATERIAL / JOURNAL


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iPOD or MP3 PLAYER


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PERSONAL SOLAR CHARGER: A small solar panel is a great way to charge your iPod or camera.

 
Brunton Solaris 6

Provided Equipment

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RMI provides the following group equipment and technical hardware for your climb: tents, upper mountain community sleeping bags and pads, stoves and cooking equipment, climbing and fixed ropes, avalanche transceivers, climbing anchors, shovels, route wands, radios for on-mountain communication, and comprehensive first aid and repair kits.


Pre-Trip Checklist

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Purchase travel insurance.


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Return the Participant Information Form to the RMI Office.


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Purchase airplane tickets.


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Reserve rental equipment.


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